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T R A V H'-L/S •'■ ■ ^ /
THROUGH .
/
SWEDEN, FINLAND, AND LAPLAND,
TO THE
J¥0 RT H CAFE.^
IN
THE YEARS 1798 AND 1799.
BY JOSEPH ACERB I.
Sistimus hic tandem, nobis ubi defait orbis.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
ILLUSTRATED WITH SEVENTEEA^ ELEGANT EKGRAVimS.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR JOSEPH MAWMAN, IN THE POULTRV,
SUCCESSOR TO MR. DH.T.V.
1802.
By T. Gillrt, Saliibury Sq'iafe,
(o \c>
P)t7t
CONTENTS.
VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
Page
Departure from Kengis — A heavy Shower of Rain — Tajfage hy the
CataraBs — Arrival at Kollare — Smoke tifed in the Houfes for the
Vurpoje ofkeepit7g off the iiumherJeJs InfeQst — Country near Kollare
— Meet with a moft fhilful Boatnum — Dangers and Difficulties
furmounted under his ConduB — More of the Catarails — The Bouts
drawn for a confiderahle Dijlance over the Land through a Wood
— Emharraffment caufed hy the boggy Ground in the JVood — The
Clitara£l of Muonio-kofki : a fuccefsfnl Attempt to defcend this Fall
in a Boat. — — — ^ — 3
CHAPTER II.
Afniall Colony of Fmlanders between Kollare attd Muonionifca —
Charming Country around that Colony — Rides of Colonization ob-
ferved in Lapland — The Vdlage of Muonionifca — The Parfon of
the Parifli — The Inhabitants of this DiflriiJ : their Manners and
Mode of Life. — — — — 12
CHAPTER III.
Excurfion from Muonionifca to Mount Pallas, and Keimio-Tunduti —
Rivers Muonio and Jeres — Pleafing Scenery about the latter — Dif-
ferent Terms of the Finlandcrs for a Mountain, according to its
peculiar Quality — Profpe6l from Keimio-Tunduri — Mount Pallas
inaccejfible — Face of the Country — Snow on Mount Pallas, and
Ice on a Lake — Some Ohjeets in Natural Iliflery rolle£ied. 22
a 2 CHAP.
83S917
iv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Pase
Departure from Muomonifca, July ilte firjl — Excejfive Heat — Travel
h l^igl'f — -^ Settlement called Pallajovenio — Proper Boundary of
Lapland — Mflake of Travellers ami Geographers concerning Lap-
]^i,iil — Pace of the Country hetiveen Mnonionifca and Pallajovenio, ■
and thence to Kautokeino — The/mail Rivers of the Country offer
more Nm^elty than the greater ones — Difficulties ariftng fromjhal-
loxv Water — Ths Rein deer Mofs (Lichen rangifcritius, Linn.)
covering the whole Surface of the Ground : Vegetation near it —
Arrival at Lappajervi — Mufquetoes exceedingly troublefome — Fires
atul Smoke the mojl effectual ProteStvm againfl them — Some Lap-
land Fijhermen — Their Habitations — A Night paffed isoith thefe
People, and Acco7imwdation afforded. — — 28
CHAPTER V.
Lake of Pallajervi, and the JJland of Kintafari — Stay on this I/land:
Occupations and Amii/ements — The Sea Si;:allo"jt; (Sterna Hirundo,
Lin J: Sagacity of thefe Birds, and their Utility to Fijliermen —
Some Laplanders engaged for the Pro/eculion of the Journey — De-
parture from Kintafari — Afmall River called Reflifoki — Defcrip-
tio.'i of the Laplanders that were to attetui the Author — Their ivant
of Cleanlinefs — The Finlanders difmiffed — Proceed on Foot ivith
the Laplanders — Temper and Difpofition of thefe People — Weather
extremely hot : great Inconvenience thence arifing — Come to a Lake
tailed Kervijervi, which they crofs in Boats. — 37
CHAPTER VE
The Plant Angelica, accounted delicious Food by the Laplanders :
itsfaluiary Qualities — The Mohfiation from the Mufquetoes aug-
mented— Arrive at the river Pepojovaivi — Meet with feme Lap-
land Fijiiermen, and two Children — Manners of thefe People — Be-
haviour of the Clnldren — The Laplanders cook their Supper : their
Mode of Eating — Sufpicion they entertain of the Juppofed Eniif-
Jaries of Government — The JMiffonaries in Lapland — Notions of
the
CONTENTS. V
P;lgc
the Laplanders concerning Religion and civil Injlitutions— Their
vnfocial way of Living — Increafe of Wolves in Lapland during late
Tears — fourney purfiicd in Boats, on the River Pepojovaivi 4q
CH.IPTER VII.
Paffjge on the River Pepojovaivi — Manner of Fifljing iifed by the Lap-
landers— The River Pepojovaivi fonning feveral Lakes during its
Courfe, and emptying itfelf into the River 4ltcn, near Kautokeino —
hnmenfe Quantity of Fifo in thofe Lakes — Sport of Shooting on the
River — Different Species of Birds — Some farther Charaderi/lics of
the watidering Laplanders — Arrival at Kautokeino — Schoolmafier
of this Place — Laplandifh Singing — The Mitfu of this Country 6o
CHAPTER Vni.
Situation of Kautokeino — Boundary between the Swediflj and Danifh
Territories — jin hi/fance of jufi Reafoning on a political Topic — •
Baron Hermelin's Maps of Sweden^ Finland, and Lapland — Diffi-
culty of obtaining good Maps of thofe Cou/itries : thofe which exifl
are far from being accurate — Diverfity of Names given to the fame
Places, and confufion occaficned by this Circumflance — -Anecdotes of
the Schoolmafier of Kaut<jkeino — Difiricl or Parifh of Kautokeino —
Population and Inhabitants — Wandering Laplanders, and thofe that
have fixed Habitations — Their Mode of Life — Chafe of the wild
Rein-deer — Annual Fair at Kautokeino, and Traffic carried on —
Cattle and Sheep — Low Effimation in which the latter are held —
Departure from Kautokeino — State of the Weather and the Thermo-
meter— fourney putfued in Boats — The River Alten — Beautiful
Scenery — Mtfquetoes. — — — 69
CHAPTER IX.
Some refrefhing Springs of Water — Farther Accowit of the River Alten
— Catarads — Rapidity of the River infome Places, atid quick Pro-
grefs of the Boats — Plenty of Fifh in the River Alten — The Church
cf Mafi — Mufiuetoes — Afmall River called Keinosjoki — A Chain
8 of
vi CONTENTS.
Page
of Mountaim to be crojfcd — Dull and /neiancboly Appearance of the
Country — Snow on the Moiintfiins in the Midft of Summer — Ar-
rive at a folitary Cabin in a V-'ood — War with the Mifquetoes —
Change of Scenery in dcfcending from the Mountains — Regain the
River Allen, and meet with a Salmon FiJJoer — Pafs another River,
and purfiie our Journey — Lofe our Way, and at lafi reach AUen-
Gaard — — — — 83
CHAPTER X.
Situation of Alten-Gaard — Profpeil to the Frozen or Icy Ocean — Bathe
in this Sea — Inhabitants of Altcn-Gaard ; their Hofpitality — Flan
for proceeding to the North Cape by Water — Departure from Alten-
Gaard — Fafs near Mount Himellar, or Heaven-wan ; Waterfalls
from this Mountain — Beautiful Scenery — Meet with the Habitation
of a Lapland Family, but find the Houfe deferted — Vifit another Hut
— Condition of the Laplanders on this Coafi — Their Mode of Life,
and happy Simplicity — Ajf'ecling Family fcene — Fall in with fome
wandering or mountain Laplanders — Their Tents and Premifes de-
fcribed — A Herd of Rein-deer — Miferable Appearance of thefe Ani-
mals— Their great Sufferings from the Heat and the Flics, efpecially
the CFjlrus Tarandi, Linn. — Rein-deer Milk — Pafs the Whaal
Sund, or Sound of Whales — Havefund, afingle Houfe, in a difmal
Situation — Appearance of Nature as you approach the North Cape
— Mageron, or Bare IJland — Arrive at the North Cape — De-
fer iption of this Promontory — — — pT
CHAPTER XL
A Grotto among the Rocks of the Cape — Rocks, of which the North
Cape is compofed, chiefly Granite — Birds feen near that Cape — Re-
turn from the North Cape — A different Route to Altenfrom the one
taken before — I^and of Maafo, and its Inhabitants — Great Hofpita-
lity and Attention — Advantage of being iniftaken for a Prince in tra-
velling— A Place called Hajnmerfefl — Hwalmyfling, a Peninfula —
Account of an Englifh Frigate coming as far as Hanunerfefi fome
Tears
CONTENTS. vii
P.ige
Years ago — Arrive again at Allen — Exciirjion to Tehvig, a great
FiJImiarket — Embark on the River Alien — Singular Combination
of three CataraBs — Attempt to ajcend in the Boats one of thefe
Waterfalls — Reafons for this Adventure — It fads, and the Travel-
lers are obliged to proceed on Foot over the Mountains — Difference
of Temperature in the Air — Regain the River, and meet the Lap-
landers of Kautokeino — Reach Kaiitokeino ; thence to Enontekis —
Difficulty of the Journey to the latter Place — Two EngUfh Travel-
lers at Enontekis : their Memorandums — The Clergyman of Enon-
tekis— Extracts from a manufcript Account^ 'sjritten by that Clergy-
man, refpe£iiiig the Parijh of Enontekis : its Population, Church,
Inhabitants, Colonies, Planners, and natural Produ&iom ; among
the Latter fome Plants and Birds, and Remarks on the Difeafes of
the Rein-deer — Journey from Enontekis to Tornea and Ulcahorg —
Conclufion. — — — — 112
GENERAL REMARKS ON LAPLAND.
SECT. I. Of fome Writers who have given Accounts of Lapland,
efpecially the MiJJionary Canute Leems — The Author s Vicvcs in
this part of the Work explained — — 137
S^CT.W. Of the Origin of the Laplanders — — 143
SECT. III. Of tJie Language of the Laplanders — 147
SECT. IV. Of the exterior Appearance and bodily Conflilution of the
Laplanders — Their Habits aiui Mode of Life — Their religious
and jnoral Chara&er — — — 151
S ECT. V . Of the Drejs of the Laplanders, both Male and Female 1 60
SECT. VI. Of the Habitations of the Laplanders, and their do-
mejlic Arrangements — — — 1 7 '
SECT. VII, Of the Manner in in-hich the Laplanders prepare their
Beds — Precaution ufed againjl the Mufquetoes — 179
SECT. VIII. Of the Diet of the Laplanders atul their Cookery 183
SECT. IX. Houfehold Furniture of the Laplanders — IQO
SECT.
viii CONTENTS.
Page
SECT. X. Of the Rein-deer, the Tame as well as the JVdd ; Treat-
ment of tame Rein-deer, and the -various Advaiilages ivhich the
Laplander derives from them — hi this SeiJion mention is made, in-
cidentally, of the Time ahout the Winter Solfiice, when the Sun
never rifes above the Horizon ; and about the Summer Sol/lice,
when it never fets. — — — ]g2
SECT. XI. Of the Mode of hariiejftng the Rein- deer, and the
different Sledges that are ufed by the Laplanders — The Manner of
Travelling ivith Rein-deer and Sledges — — 202
SECT. XII. Of the Wandering Laplanders and their Migrations 208
SECT. XIII. Of the Qtiadrupeds and Birds in Laplafid 2J2
SECT. XIV. Of the Amphibious Animals, the FiJIies and Fijlieries 236
SECT. XV. Of the Infcils and Tejlaceous Animals of Lapland 245
SECT. XVI. Of Lapland Botany _ _ _ 257
SECT. XVII. Of Minerals _ _ _ 264
^ECT. ^Vm. Of the MamifaL^ures of Lapland — 279
SECT. XIX. Of fotne particular Cujioms among the Laplanders 281
SECT'. XX. Of Lapland Courljhip and Marriages — 284
SECT. XXI. Of Sports and Amufemenis — — 288
SECT. XXII. Of the Dijeafes to which the Laphmders are fuh-
jedl, and the Remedies they uje — Of their Funerals — 2go
SECT XXIII. Of the Gods and Goddeffcs tvhich the Laplanders
adored before the Introdu^ion of Chri/lianily — — 2g4
SECT. XXIV. Of the Sacrifices offered by the Laplanders to their
Deities — — — — 30 1
SECT. XXV. Of the Magic Art praaifcd hy the Laplanders :
^unic-Drian — Ganic Flies — Juoige — and Noaaid — 30/
SECT. XX\'^I. Of the Jtrong Attachment of the Laplanders to
their Native Country — — 3 j 3
SECT. XXVII. Some Olfervations relative to th^ Climate and
Natural Hifiory of Lapland — — — 3 1 7
APPENDIX : containing Specimens of Lapland Mufic, and a Diary
of the Author's Journey from Stockholm to Uleaborg ; thence to the
North Cape, and back again — — — 323
TRAVELS
TRAVELS
THROUGH
LAPLAND.
TRAVELS
THROUGH
LAPLAND.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Kengis — A hcaiiy S/iozver of Rain — Pajjlige hy the
CataraSts — Arrival at Kollare — Smoke ufed in the Houfes for the
Purpofe of keeping off t lie numherlefs hfeSis — Country near Kollare
— Meet with a mojl Jkilful Boatman — Dangers and Difficulties
fur mounted under his ConduSi — More of the Catara5is — The Boats
dravonfor a conjiderahle D fiance over the Land through a Jf'ood —
Embarrtjfment caifed hy the boggy Ground in the Wood — The
CataraSi of Muonio-\ojki : afuccefsful Attempt to defend this Fall
in a Boat,
TTTAVING fct out from Kengis, we did not change our boat
"*""*- till we reached Kollare, a dlftance of twenty-two miles.
We performed this voyage in twelve hours, in the courfc of which
our boatmen had only five hours reft. We were furprifcd by a
heavy fall of rain, which poured upon us for half an hour in fuch
Vol. II. B 2 large
4 TRAVELS
large drops, and with fuch violence, that we began to fear it would
fill the boat. I had not feen fo copious a fliower fince I left Italy,
nor did I think it ufual in this high latitude. The rain was fo
round, and the drops fo large, that we loft fight of the furround-
ing objccfts, infomuch that our view was confined to the diftance
of eight or ten feet all around us. This was the firft and only
time we heard any thunder in our travels towards the North.
Our tent hitherto had only been an encumbrance to us, but the
period v^as approaching when we (hould find its ufe. In the pro-
grefs of our navigation as far as KoUare, we encountered many ca-
taradls, but we became fo accuftomed to them, that what at firft
was a caufe of terror, became at length an objciH: of amufement.
Once it happened that we got aground upon a rock in the middle
of the river. Our Flnlanders pufhed the boat on a large round
ftone, fo that it hung on its furface, while we remained fufpended
by our own equilibrium. Inftead of trembling at this fingular
fituation,. in which we could not continue a moment without im-
minent danger of falling into the water, it excited in us an im-
moderate fit of laughter ; a circumftance which feemed greatly
to furprife and divert our boatmen.
The village of Kollare is inhabited by Finlandlfh peafants, who
feem to be very much at their eafe. The young woman we met
at Kengls was come home, and had prepared for us beds, excel-
lent milk, butter, and meat of the rein-deer in abundance. She
was in the houfe with her mother and a girl of the neighbourhood ;
the male part of the family were gone a fiftiing. This young per-
fon
THROUGH LAPLAND. 5
fon had a gau-ty and natural vivacity very uncommon in a coun-
try like this. Her figure was fine, though very tail, being near
fix feet in height. She fpoke vsith cafe, and replied to our dumb
fhew by fmart repartees, at which we laughed upon truft, but
which our Interpreter found excellent, and full of wit and humour.
The village is fituated uponafmall ifland, which is the property of
the inhabitants. The ifland is formed by the river Muonio, which
here divides itfclf into two branches. The people cultivate barley,
and have fome meadow^ grounds with excellent hay.
The firfl favour the women conferred upon us was to fill our
room fo full of fmoke, that it brovight tears in our eyes. Their
intention was good, they wlflied to deliver us from the molcfla-
tion of the gnats ; and as a mean of very efFe(flual prevention, they
made a fccond fire near the entrance of the apartment to ftop the
frefh myriads of thofe infedls which were ready to rufh in upon
us from w Ithout. A thick fmoke is an objed: of great luxury in this
part of the world. Thofe lnfed:s, which are the fcourge of that
country, became indeed very troublefome to us ; and our gauze
veils and gloves could give us no prote<5lion againfl their finging in
our ears, and interrupting our fleep. Here our own refolutlon, a,k
that of our fervants formerly, for the firfl time, began to be fhaken.
The landfcape at this place is pleafmg : all along the banks you
have the birch and other trees, which form a contrafl with the
uniformity of the pines and the firs. The face of the country is
rather flat, and it is only at a certain diflancc that you difcover
Jiills of fome fize.
Wc
6 TRAVELS
We had the good fortune to meet here four of the moft "expe-
rienced boatmen we had feen in the whole courfe of our travels.
There was one of them called Simon, whom we named by way
of eminence, the Bonaparte of the CalaraSJs. It it impoffible for
me to ^\\c the reader an idea of the excellence of his tallies, his
courage, his addreis, the juftncfs of his eye in judging from the
furface of the w ater the nature of the bottom, and in afcertain-
ing, with the moft fcrupulous precifion, the depth of the river.
Had it not been for the refolution and fteadinefs of this man, our
expedition mufl; have ended at Kollare ; for the obftacles to be
encountered between this place and Muonionifca are fo feiioufly
difcouraging to common boatmen, that they would have refufcd
to a man to condudl us any farther.
The paflage from Kollare to Muonionifca is a diflance of fixty-
fix miles, entirely upon the river Muonio, and conftantly in oppo-
fition to catarads and the current. The fortitude and perfeve-
rance with which thofe people bore this long and extraordinary
labour, fliew the aftonifliing power of habit. Where the river
was too ftrong and violent for our boats, which owmg to the
weight they carried drew too much water, to make good their
paflage, we w ere forced to difembark and haul our empty boats
along the river. The Finlanders who were employed in dragging
the boat, kept on the bank, leaping from llone to flone, and fome-
times went up to the middle in water to difengage the rope from
the rocks, where it had become entangled. Sometimes the boats
themfelves were obftrudled in their paflage by the rocks, in which
cafe
THROUGH LAPLAND. 7
cafe one of the men threw himfclf into the water, fwam up to
them, and fct them afloat again. At lad we came to a place
where the extreme force of the catarad:, the depth of the water,
and the obftriidions from the rocks, rendered it to appearance al-
together impoffible to continue our progrcfs. Our brave Simon
was the only perfon who thought every thing pofTible. The rcll
feemed difpofed to find fault with his daring projeds, which they
never leflened ; but, on the contrary, magnified through their
fears. But he was always the firfi: to fct an example of the moft
unwearied patience and adivity ; he conftantly charged him felt
with the execution of the moft arduous and laborious part of the
undertaking, and never propofed a thing in which he did not
referve for himfelf the moft difficult and hazardous offices it
impofed : in fliort, no perils could daunt his fpirit, no toils iet
bounds to his exertions. He hauled the boat, he difengaged it
when it ftuck taft ; he was the firft to leap into the water when-
ever occafion required, and feemed to do every thing himfelf
alone.
While our Finlanders were difplaying the moft heroic pcrfeve-
rance on the river and on its banks, the utmoft we could do was
to keep up with them in the adjacent wood. It was not alwa} s
poffible to follow them clofe to the river, as we were not, like them,
able to jump from one rock to another. The current too fome-
times produced a giddinefs in the head, and we were unw illing to
wet our legs by wading through the water. Another fpecies of fa-
tigue ftill awaited us in the woods : we funk here and there fo
deep
8 TRAVELS
deep in the mofs, that we thought we fliould be immerfed in it
up to our necks. We fomctimes met with places fo deep and
boggy, that it was highly dangerous to fet a foot upon them. The
branches everywhere intercepted our paiTage, while the veils we
wore on our faces, to proted: them from the flings of infeds,
caught hold of the branches, and were in danger of being torn in
pieces by every twig. Tall fir and pine-trees, which the wind
had levelled with the ground, and which time had almoft con-
verted into duft, lay fcattered in the woods. We wiflied to
cfcape the embarraflment of the mofs, by ftepping along the
trees that lay in our way ; but we found their fubflance generally
fo rotten and decayed, that now and then they fuddenly gave
way under our feet, and we could with difficulty fave ourfelves
from falling.
In this manner we had travelled about two Englifli miles, when
notice was given us that the catarafts were become fo formidable,
that there was no chance of carrying the boats farther up the
river. To proceed without our boats was not to be thought of,
it being impoffible to get to Muonionifca but by croffing the
river Muonio ; and befides, there was another fmaller river at the
oppofite fide. The only expedient we had left was to haul the
boats on Ihore, and to drag them about two miles through the
woods, where we would come to a part of the river more quiet
and practicable for failing on. Simon was the firft to embrace
this refolution ; and without knowing that we had travelled on
the fea drawn by horfes, he propofed that we fhould travel
over
THROUGH LAPLAND. 9
over the land through a thick wood in a boat. We were not in-
human enough, however, to take advantage of Simon's magnani-
mity, and to place ourfclvcs in the boat, for its continual fridion
againft the mofs and trees rendered it fo weighty, that it required
the whole force of our four boatmen to draw a fmgle boat at once
w itliout any thing in it. At length we got to the end of two
miles, and we were very glad to repofe while our men returned
for our baggage and the other boat. In the courfe of this journey,
being invited by an uncommon noife of the river, we drew near
to have a view of the famous cataradl of Muonio-kofki ; and
though we judged it impoffible to defcend with fuch a current,
we were, neverthelefs, bold enough to attempt and accomplifh it
on our return. As this cataradl is the moft dangerous that we
pafled in the whole courfe of our river navigation, I fhall endea-
vour to give the reader a defcription, as near as I can, of the man-
ner in which the pafl'age is performed.
Let him imagine a place where the river is fo hemmed in by
narrow banks, and fo compreffed with rugged and fhelving rocks,
that the current is doubled in its rapidity ; let him moreover re-
prcfent to his mind the formidable inequalities in the bed of the
river, occafioned by thofe rocks, which can only be pafled by a fort
of leap, and confequently make the water extremely turbulent ;
let him conceive that, for the fpace of an Englilh mile, this river
continues in the fame flate : and k. '-■m, after all this, confider
the hazard to which a boat mufl be expofed that ventures itfelf
on fuch a furface, where both the nature of the channel, and the
Vol. II. C • amazing
JO TRAVELS
amazing velocity of the current, feem to confpire to its deftruc-
tion. You cannot perform this pafTage by fimply following the
ftream ; but the boat muft go with an accelerated quicknefs,
which fliould be at Icafl: double to that of the current. Two
boatmen, the moft adive and robuft that can be found, muft ufe
their utmoft exertions in rowing the w hole time, in order that the
boat may overcome the force of the flream, while one perfon is
Rationed at the helm to reafulate its dirediion as circumftances
may require. The rapidity of this defcent is fuch, that you ac-
complifli an Englifli mile in the fpace of three or four minutes.
The man that manages the rudder can, with difficulty, fee the
rocks he muft keep clear of: he turns the head of the boat di-
reAly in the line of the rock he means to pafs, and when he is in
the very inflant of touching it, he fuddenly makes a fharp angle
and leaves it behind him. The trembling palTenger thinks that
he fhall fee the boat daflied in a thoufand pieces, and the moment
after he is aftonlfhed at his own exiftence. Add to all this, that
the waves rufli into the boat from all fides, and drench you to the
fkin ; while, at other times, a billow will dafti over the boat from
fide to fide, and fcarccly touch you. It is a fituation which pre-
fents danger in fuch frightfvd fhapes, that you could hardly open
your eyes and refrain from trembling, though a perfon with the
greatefl certainty fliould aiTure you that you would not fuffer any
harm. Several people, however, have periflied in this place ; and
there were but two men in the village of Muonio who thought
themfelves qualified to condud. the defcent : thefe were an old
man
THROUGH LAPLAND. 1 1
man of fixty-feven years of age, and his fon of twenty-fix. The
old boatman had known this paffage twenty years, and navigated it
always with fuccefs, and in the courfe of that period he had taught
his fon his own dangerous calling. It is impoffible to conceive
any thing more flriking and intcreffcing than the collected and in-
trepid expreffion of the old man's countenance in the progrcfs of
the paiTage. As our refolution to defcend this catarad: was not
adopted raflily, but after a minute enquiry and cool refle6lion, we
were prepared to obferve the detail of our adventure in its moll
trifling circumflances. The old man never fat down, but flood
upright, holding the rudder with both hands, which was tied on
purpofe for the occafion to the ftern of the boat. In paffing the
fmaller cataracts, they defcend with the rudder untied, which
they hold between their arms, and fit all the while. When we
were in the moll critical moments of the paffage, we had only
to caft our eye on the old man's countenance, and our fears al-
moll inllantly vanifhed. In places of Icfs difficulty he looked
round to his Ion, to obferve if he had proceeded with fafety. It
was plain his thoughts were more occupied about his Ion than him-
felf ; and indeed the young man grazed the rocks on two different
occaflons. As foon as all danger was over, we drew in to the fliore
to repofe and enjoy the triumph of our fuccefs. It was then v\e
remarked that the fon, who had piloted the fecond boat, looked
extremely pale through terror; and my companion's fervant, who
had been in his boat, informed us that they had received two vio-
lent fhocks, and that on both occafions he gave himfelf up for loll.
C 2 CHAP-
12 TRAVELS
CHAPTER II.
A fiiiall Colony of Ftnlanders between Kollare atui Muonionifca —
Charming Country around that Colony — Rules of Colonization ob-
ferved in Lapland — The Village of Muonionifca — The Parfon of
the Parifh — The Inhabitants of this DiflriSi : their Matmers and
Mode of Life.
TT coft us two days and two nights to accomplifh thefe fixty-
lix miles ; and before recommencing our laborious travels, we
flopped at a fmall cottage, where we found a little colony of Fin-
landers which feemed extremely poor, and by their particular
fituation interefted us very much.
The colony confifted of two families only, who lived altogether
in the fame cottage, and amounted to feven perfons, including
two women and a young child. The fituation of this little com-
munity made a powerful impreffion upon our minds. The fur-
rounding country is delightful ; a number of fmall wooded iflands
ferve to embellifh the courfe of the river, which here occupies a
broader channel, and glides on with a more placid current : the
oppofite banks are adorned with trees and verdure. Nature feem-
ed to fmile all around this folltary manfion, while peace and good
humour reigned within its humble walls. This little commu-
nity.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 13
nity, cut off and infulated from all fociety for five months in the
year, have neither prieft nor temple. They are Separated from
Muonionifca by the many obftrudions which we have defcribed
in the former chapter, and from Kengis by a journey of three or
four days, going and returning, the whole of the way of which is
rendered difficult by cataradts of a moft painful and laborious
afcent. Thefe people, accuflomed to live in the moft perfeA foli-
tude, having fcldom an opportunity of feeing thofe who rcfide
neareft to them, were aftoniflacd when we made our appearance.
The natives of Kollare diflike to encounter the catarads, and con-
fequently fubmit to the fatigue of afcending the current of the
river, only when they have fome fpecial reafon, which occurs but
feldom. The colonifts fubfift by the labour of their hands, and
the fcanty produce of their fields. Their property in land extends
fix miles around their dwelling ; and lakes, rivers, fifliery, woods,
and meadows are exclufively their own, within a circle whofe ra-
dius is fix miles. Such extenfive property in land formed a ftrik-
ing contraft with the indigence of the pofiTefixsrs. They had
only four cows ; they fowed but one barrel of barley, which in
good years produced them fcven barrels, but fometimes did not
return them even the feed. One year their harveft was fo very
bad, that they muft have died of famine, but for a merchant of
Tornea who pafi"ed this wav, and gave them a fupply. This hap-
pened at the beginning of their colonial exiftence, when they had
firft come to fettle in this place. They were a couple of Fin-
landifti families who had refided at Muonionifca ; but having no-
thing
14 TRAVELS
thing to live upon, they refolvxd to emigrate, mutually to fupport
each other, and to fix their abode in a remote corner of the coun-
try, where they might acquire fome property. Whoever is dlf-
pofed to eftablifh himfelf in Lapland has only to chufe his fitua-
tion, but it muft be at the diftance of fix miles from the bounds of
the neareft village ; and the moment he has built his hut, all the
land for fix miles round him is his own by right of poffeffion.
The traveller, who in his excurfions vifits this country in fum-
mer, will be enchanted, at every fhep he takes, with the fmiling
afped; of thofe hills and lakes, and with the variety and foftnefs of
the pidures which prefent themfelves in fucceffion to his eye. If
that traveller fliould have been the vldim of thofe vices and paf-
fions which riot in great towns, and countries highly civilifed
and refined ; fliould he have narrowly efcaped being fliipwrecked
on the tempeftuous fea of ambition ; or fhould he have fuffer-
cd the mortification of a difappointed felf-love, and all the in-
quietude of an overweening conceit of his own merit ; fliould this
miferable man have never found one with whom he might fliare
his pains and his pleafures ; fliould he, in fliort, have never tafled
the fweets of genuine friendfliip — ah ! how ought fuch a difturbed
and afflided mind to covet the innocence and fimplicity of this
country ! How fortunate would it be for him, could he exchange
this, with its artlefs joys, for the high blown luxuries in which he
had hitherto lived. But alas! there is nothing on earth perfed ;
no human enjoyment Is without alloy. Even that fpot, which I
have defcribed as fo peaceful and charming, has Its fliare of mlfery,
which
THROUGH LAPLAND. 15
which diminiflics or even dcflroys its attradlions. The long con-
tinuance of the winter and its horrors ; the oppreffive multitvidc
of tormenting infedts in the fummer, would, in the opinion of
moft men, counterbalance any advantages which the beauty of the
fituation, or the allurements of rural life, could prefent. But,
after all, where can the unhappy find peace and joy ; what region
can flielter him from the forrows that dwell in his wounded heart?
If content be not the inmate of his bofom, it is ui vain to feek
for it in dillant countries : it is a phantom that will conftantly
elude his grafp. A change of climate cannot relieve the conflid;
in his breaft ; and why fliould he fight without, fince the battle
rages within ! Happinefs, like the fun's rays, is difperfed over the
whole earth : it is diftributcd, though with apparent inequality,
yet with impartial juftice. The Laplander is without night in
fummer; but he is alfo without day during his long winter. Na-
ture balances all things,
Muonionifca is a village compofed of fifteen or fixteen dwell-
ing-houfes, irregularly placed on the left bank of the river Muo-
nio. Eaflward it is bordered by a chain of mountains, of which
Mount Pallas and Keimio-tunduri are the mofi: confiderablc ; to-
wards the north, and at a fliort diftance, the woods terminate
the view, which is the cafe alfo towards the weft and fouth, into
which quarter the river holds its courfe. Muo//io is the name of
the river, ?iij(:a fignifies beginning ; and the village is fo called,
becaufe it is the place where the river begins to afiume a regular
form. At Muonionifca there is a church and a parfon, who, like
that
i6 TRAVELS
that of Kciigis, i3 under the fuperintendence of the minifler of
Upper Tornea. The parifli of Muonionlfca is about two hundred
fquare miles in extent, and the parfon is to all appearance a pea-
fant, like any of his flock ; having nothing vifible about him that
refers to his clerical dignity, except a pair of black breeches. This
poor man had the misfortune of being ruined by a fire, which con-
fumed all his houfehold furniture with his library, from which he
could not even fave his bible. This lofs however was not what he
feemed to have felt moft feverely, as he obferved, that after this
difarter, he found himfelf eafed of the burden of reading Latin,
a language in w!iich he fometimes attempted to converfe with us,
but which, in his mouth, formed fuch a jargon as made us laugh,
though it did not promote the interchange of ideas. The honefl
parfon was of great ufe to us during our ftay at Muonionifca ; he
attended us everywhere, was ready to explain on all occafions
where we found difficulties ; and as he was well acquainted with
the Finlandifli and Swedifli languages, was able to give us the
etymology of many words that we met with and wifhed to under-
fland. He was the moft clownifh parfon I ever faw in my vari-
ous travels ; and I believe that calamity and extreme diftrefs had
contributed more than any thing to reduce him, in point of per-
fonal confcquence, to a level with the meanefh of his parifliioners.
This man, however, pofleffed a large fliare of ftrong natural fenfe ;
he reafoned with much juftnefs and fagacity on the fubjecH: of
politics ; and as he was a poor and humble being himfelf, he
violently declaimed againft the manner in which the ariftocracy
and
THROUGH LAPL/VND. 17
and high clergy abufcd their riches. As a politician he was a de-
termined enemy to every thing dcfpotic ; he had infinite refpedl
for BoiMparte, and one would have thought he entertained fome
idea that the conqueror of Italy might one day come to Muonio-
nifca, and make him fuperintendent miniftcr of Lapland. He
was particularly hoftile to Ruffia and its government, which he
faid debafcd the people, and kept them, from policy, in a ftate
of brutifli ignorance. Sometimes he would difcourfe on the abufes
of birth and hereditary fucceffion, in a manner which I was afto-
nidied to hear from a man, who had nothing in the world but a
fliirt, a pair of breeches, and the flioes on his feet, I imagined
that fome modern book on thofc fubjedls had fallen into his
hands ; but when he gave me an account of the works that com-
pofed his library, I found it had confifted of nothing but tracts of
divinity, and books on theological controvcrfy. What aftonifhed
me moft was, that this Ibrt of reading had not bereft him of the
good fenfe nature had given him ; but he alfured me he had
ftudied thofe volumes as little as poffible. He was the better pleafed
to fee travellers, becaufe they never could be any inconvenience to
him, fince being very ill lodged himfelf, it could not be cxpedled
he fhould find them accommodation ; and befides, by their arrival
he was fure of fome glalTes of brandy, with which we ufed to re-
gale him as often as he came to fee us. He declared our brandy
was delicious ; and with each glafs he fwallowed, pronounced its
cidogium in a manner equally energetic and fincere. In this coun-
try, far removed from the infedion of our corrupt manners, fiat-
VoL. 11. . D tery
1 8 TRAVELS
tery and parafitical praife are but little in fafhion, and confe-
quently we did not fufped: the parfon of diflimulation, or that he
was not perfedly fatisfied as to the good qualities he afcribed to
that beverage.
I fhall now lay before the reader what Information I was able
to colled, refpeding this village and the manners of its inhabi-
tants. The population of the whole parifh confifls of four hun-
dred fouls, difperfed over a furface of nearly two hundred fquare
miles. The inhabitants are all of them Finlandifli emigrants, v\ ho
came and fettled here, and who confequently fpeak the language
of Finland. All travellers who have vifited this country have
named the people Laplanders ; and I have in fome degree con-
formed myfelf, in the courfe of this work, to the fame prejudice,
but I have diflinguifhed them by the appellation of Finlandifli
Laplanders, or in other words, Finlanders fettled in Lapland.
Their habits and manner of life are nearly the fame with thofe
of the natives of Finland ; and, indeed, there is no difference but
what is produced by climate and their topographical fituation. It
it very remarkable, however, that the Finlanders fettled here,
like the paftoral Laplanders, know nothing either of poetry and
mufic, or mufical inftruments. Surrounded with lakes and rivers
abounding in fifh, they take little concern in agriculture, but de-
pend chiefly for fubfiftence on the precarious refource of fifhing,
or on the flill more uncertain fruits of the chafe. The qualities,
as among all favage nations, in the higheft eftimation in the male
fex, are bodily ftrength and activity. They enjoy the appetite of
love,
TPIROUGII LAPLAND. 19
love, but have little experience of the fighs and tender emotions
of that paflion. The people have a gloomy and Icrious deport-
ment : the youth of both fexes remain in the company of each
other without the leaft of that playful gaiety which is fo becom-
ing in their years. I never once obferved a young man direct a
fmile of complaifance towards a young woman. It is a prett)
general cuftom, however, for the youth of both fexes to fleep to-
gether, and what is ftill more extraordinary, without producing
any dccifive evidence of too much familiarity. The father charges
himfelf with the marriage of his child ; and the union of the
parties is a contradl rather dicftated by family convenience than
by any prediledion for each other. At the fame time there have
been inftances of jealoufy, and even of madnefs occafioned by
this paflion. There was a woman, it feems, ftlU alive, who be-
came infane from love, and who in her frenzy killed her own
daughter. She is faid to have entertained a violent fufpicion of
a woman, whom flic fuppofed had engaged the afledlions of her
hufljand. We find contradidlions in the charafter of every people
on earth, and this is a flriking example in corroboration of that
obfervation. There is not an infl^ance of either robbery or murder
known in this countrj^ ; but cafes of fuicide have happened :
people have drowned themfelves, or made attempts upon their
lives in one fliape or another. Such excefles are there attributed
neither to want nor to the palfion of love, but to madnefs, occa-
fioned by fome natural caufe, or to violent- depreflion and low^nefs
of ipirits.
D 2 The
^o ' TRAVELS
The food of thefe people in fummer confifts of fifli dried in the
fun. When the firtiery happens to be very produftlve, they fell
the furplus, or give it in exchange for meal, fait, or iron, which
they want for domeftic purpofes. They like better to receive meal
in exchange for their fifli, than to apply themfelves to the labour
of the foil. Among them agriculture is ftill in its primitive
ftate. They make no ufe of the plough, but work the ground by
the force of their arms, though the parfon has been at much
pains, but without fuccefs, to teach them the advantage of that
implement. He ufed himfelf to yoke his cow to the plough, and
cultivate a fmall field of his own, in order to fet an example to
others. As foon as the fnow has begun to fall in autumn, they
carefully obferve the traces of the bear, and go out to attack him
in parties of three or four perfons. About the middle of Auguft,
the feafon when the birds caft their feathers, they have confider-
able fuccefs in the chafe of wild ducks and other aquatics, w hich
they knock down with the oar, thefe animals being then unable
to efcape from them by the affiflance of their wings.
When they have cut down their hay and fufficiently dried it,
they put it upon a fort of frame, railed high above the ground,
on four pofts, fo as not only to fecure it from being humid by the
overflowing of the river, but alfo from being carried away by the
force of the current. Some of them poflefs rein-deer, which in
fummer they intruft to the care of a Laplander, who conducts
them into the vallies among the mountains, and watches and at-
tends them in their pafture>
The
THROUGH LAPI.AND. ai
The people are extremely fober, they never drink fpirituous
liquors, except on marriage days, when they indulge, but not to
excefs, in mirth and gaiety. The ceremony of marriage is fol-
lowed by a dinner in their ftyle, and afterwards by a dance, but
without mufic of any kind, except their cries and the fnapping
of their fingers. They have no relifh fpr beer ; and w hen we pre-
vailed upon them to tafte our wine, they made wry faces and took
it for phyfic. The parfon aflured us in the moft pathetic accents,
that there was not a fmgle glafs of brandy to be had in the whole
two hundred fquare miles of his parifli ; he told us llkewife, that
drunkennefs is regarded by the people as the moft fcandalous vice
to which a man can be fubjed. : and we could not help fufpecling
that this was one of the caufes of his being fo little revered and
efleemed by his flock,
Difeafe and ficknefs are extremely rare among thefe people ;
there have been inftances of peafants in this parifli, who have
lived to the age of one hundred and ten years : and the only dif-
order that proves fatal to the inhabitants, is a kind of inflamma-
tory fever.
CHAPTER
2 2 TRAVELS
CHAPTER III.
'Excurfion from Muonionjfca to Moiatt Pallas, and Kehnio-Ttinduri
— Rivers Muonio and Jeres — Pleajing Scenery about the latter —
D'iff'ere)it Terms of the FtnJanders for a Mountain, according to
its peculiar Quality — FrofpeSi from Keiniio-Tunduri — Mount Pal-
las inaccejjihlc — Face of the Country — Snow on Mount Pallas,
and Ice on a Lake — Some ObjeSis in Natural Hi/lory collected.
A DAY and a night fpent at Muonionifca ferved to recover
■*- ^ us from the fatigue of our late journey, and the following
morning we found ourfelves difpofed to make an excurfion into
the country. Our honeft parfon was our guide in this expedition.
He made an excellent fellow traveller, accommodated himfelf to
every thing ; and what rendered him ftill more agreeable to us,
was, that we found him by no means a mere novice in the pur-
fuits of natural hiftory. Dr. Quenzel, who made the fame tour,
had him for his companion, and inftruded him in different par-
ticulars : he was, for inftance, no ftranger to the names of certain
infeds, fuch as the coccinella trifafciata, and the cureulio areticus ;
in the department of ornithology he knew the motacilla fuecica,
the turdus rofeus ; and in that of fiflics, the fah/io alpina.
We diredled our courfe towards Mount Pallas. The name of
this
THROUGH LAPLAND. jj
this mountain feemed to us rather extraordinary, but our friend
the parfon was unable to explain its meaning, nor could he ever
give us any thing like a plaufible etymology of the term. Our
defign in this excurfion was to have a view of the furrounding
country from the top of that mountain, to colle^l, as we went
along, plants, birds, infecfts, and fliells from the bed of the river ;
to make a drawing of any pifturefque objeft that might prefent
itfelf, and to fall in with fbme wandering Laplander watching.
his rein-deer, which pafture in the glens and vallies of thofe
mountains. We had no choice as to our manner of travelling,
and were obliged to proceed by water to the very foot of the
mountain. Having failed down the river Muonio, we went up>
the fmall river Jeres, which runs into the Muunio, three miles
from Muonionifca. This little river flows for the greateft part in
a peaceful flream, and fpreading itfelf at certain fliort intervals,
forms charming little lakes, traverfmg a country the moft pleaf-
ing and diverfified poffible. Birds, and efpeclally wild-ducks,
fwarm on this river, and afforded us a very fmgular kind of Iport.
In certain places the channel becoming narrow, the willows and
other trees of the oppofite banks unite and entwine their branches,
fo as to compofe a fpecies of bower, which fkreened us from the
rays of the fiin. The wild-ducks frequently flew into thofe re-
cefles, but not thinking it prudent to venture far amongft the
trees, made a precipitate retreat : on their return they pafled di-
rectly over our head, and offered us the befl: opportunity poflible
for ihooting. This river exhibited the fineft fcenery a painter
could
24 TRAVELS
could dcfire in the mild and rural ftyle. As we approached clofc
to the mountain we came upon a large lake which forms the
fourcc of the river. This lake is intercepted, however, by a ca-
tarad: of very confidcrable length, fo incumbered with ftones,
that fcarccly an empty boat could have proceeded upon it. The
neceffitics of th&fe people impelled them to make an attempt to
remove fome of the ftones in this lake, and to turn them to one
fide for the purpofe of deepening the water in the middle, and fo
to facilitate the paffage of their fifliing-boats. We were affured,
that the firft perfons who fucceeded in furmounting the obftacles
which feparated the navigable part of this river from the lake,
had each of them, after fifteen days fifliing, four or five barrels of
fifh for his own fliare.
Mount Pallas, at a diftance, has a very fallacious appearance,
feeming to be of no confidcrable ftze, but becomes more impofing
in proportion as you approach it. The parfon informed us, that the
Finlanders have fix words to exprefs a mountain, each of which
ferves to denote fome diftindlive quality in the objed: ; viz. ift,
Sadloy which fignifies a fmall rifing ground, furnifhed w ith wood ;
I'dly, Rova, one of a more confidcrable eminence, covered with
ftones; 3dly, Wara, a hill with a tuft of trees ; 4thly, Kero, a
large hill with brufhwood here and there on the furface ; 5thly,
Tunduri, denoting a high naked mountain ; and alfo a Gth name,
which is Selke, fignifying a long hill, without any alkifion to its
height.
After doubling certain points and promontories, we rowed the
boat
THROUGH LAPLxV2.^D. 25
boat as near as we could to the mount Kcimio-tundurl, \\ hich we
immediately began to climb. The afccnt is extremely difficult
and troublefome, in as much as we had not only to climb, but
to open a pafTage with our hands acrofs woods which nobody per-
haps ever penetrated before, at leaft certainly not from motives of
amufement. At laft wx came to a part of the mountain which is
bare of trees, where we found, with fomc concern, that it was im-
poffible for us to get to mount Pallas, by reafon of fvvamps and
fmali lakes, which infulated the mountain, and which were them-
ielves fecluded from one another by impalTable marflies. At the
top of Keimio we had all around under our eye a vaft profpcd:,
•which afforded us a moft perfedl idea of the country. To-
wards the eaft: and weft, the furface is covered with fmall hills as
far as the eye can reach, whofe tops feemed to mix with the fkies
at the horizon ; northward, mount Pallas lifts his head far above
the other objefts, and looks down upon all the adjacent moun-
tains: but the view towards the fouth prefented an immenfc traiit
of country wholly inacceffible and impenetrable to man, confifling
of a difmal and dreary extent of fwamps and marfliy foil.
The whole of what we faw was more calculated to interell a
geographer than a painter, who could perceive very little that
would fuit the purpofes of his art. Between us and mount Pallas
lay a fmall lake, on whofe furface the ice had not yet entirely
difappcarcd : being fituated in the bottom of the valley, it was
fcreened from the folar rays, and as it was probably formed of
fnovv water, which had run down from the mountains, it might
Vol. II. E be
26 TRAVELS
be lefs pervious to the warmth of the atmofphere. The fnow was
entirely gone on Keimio, but we obferved it lying here and there
on mount Pallas, a circumllance probably owing to the difference
of their refpedlive elevations.
We made various perambulations round this mountain in fearch
of birds and plants. We found a couple of groufe (tetrao cagopus
of Linn.) which were more than one half white ; and alfo a
couple of emheriza iiivalis, Linn, which werejuft beginning to
change the colour of their plumage ; they were flill almoft entirely
white.
The fifh of the lake are the following :
Salmo albula Cyprinus alburnus
Perca fluviatilis Efox lucius
Gadus lota
On our return homeward we examined the channel of the river
for Ihells, in which it is not unufual to find pearls. We found
the fpecies called mya pi6iorum, but the pearls were fcarcely vifible,
and in all of them fo very trifling, that we thought them not
worth our notice. Our attendants were aflonifhed at the zeal
with which we purfued our relearches ; nor had they the fmalleft
conception of their utility. The parfon himfelf was at a lofs to
difcover what real advantages we could propofe to ourfelves by the
invefligation of infefts and plants. Since his library was deftroyed,
he had found that he could eafily dilpenfe with divinity, and fan-
cied he had difcovered that divinity, viewed as a fcience, was en-
tirely ufclefs, and that the fciences in general were good for no-
thing
THROUGH LAPLAND. s;
thing in the world, except in fo far as they amufcd the intelled,
and ferved to banifh the HftleflTnefs of human \i(e.
As we fell down the river we were prefentcd with fccnery alto-
gether different from what sve had feen in afccnding it. One part
of our plan ftill remained to be accompliflied, I mean that of tra-
verfing the mountains in quefl of the Laplanders and their rein-
deer ; but we were fo extremely fatigued, that it was deemed
more wife to return to Muonionifca. We had made a tour of
thirty-fix miles in the fpace of twenty hours, almoft without halt-
ing. The heat of the weather was excefTive : Celfms's thermo-
meter at noon rofe in the fhadc to 27 degrees ; and the gnats tor-
mented us inceffantly. Upon our arrival at Muonionifca, we
refumed our ufual occupations ; and having enjoyed a little repofe,
we began to prepare for our departure.
Our abode at this place made fome addition to our colleftion.
of natural hiflory. We obtained, among other things, feveral fpe-
cimens of the motactUafnecica, with their eggs and nefl. We got.
alfb a magnificent JaruSy which a Laplander killed on one of the
neighbouring lakes. It turned out to be the lams glaucus of Lin^
naeus. Befides this we coUeded a confiderable quantity of plants
and infeds.
E 2 CHAPTEH
28 TRAVELS
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Muonlontfca, July the Jirjl — ExceJJive Heat — Travel
hy Night — A Settlement called Pallajovenio — Proper Boundary of
Lapland — Mi/lake of Travellers and Geographers concerning Lap-
land— Face of the Country between Muonlonifca and Pallajovenio,
and thence to Kautokeino — The fmall Rivers of the Country offer
more Novelty than the greater ones — Difficulties arifing fromfJial-
low Water — The Rein-deer Mofs (Lichen rangiferinus, Linn.)
covering the whole Surface of the Ground: Vegetation near it —
Arrival at Lappajervi — Mufqiietoes exceedingly troublefome — Fires
and Smoke the mofl effeSiual ProteSiion againfl them — Some Lap-
land Fijliermen — Their Habitations— -A Night paffed with thefe
People, and Accommodation afforded.
"TXTE let off from Muonionifca on the firft day of July, about
' ten o'clock at night. The atmofphere was heated to a
degree nearly fufFocating throughout the whole of the day. The
thermometer of Cellius fliewed at noon 29 degrees ; at midnight
it fell down to 19 degrees. The water in the rivers and lakes was
clear and limpid, and w-e fliould gladly have bathed ourlelves, had
we not been deterred from fuch a refolution by the mufquetoes,
who would have devoured us alive, if we had expofed ourfclves
to
THROUGH LAPLAND. 29
to their fury without the protedtion of our clothes. We chofe to
purfue our journey at night, and came to a determination to ob-
ferve the fame rule in future, and take onr reft in the day-time, in
order to enjoy that temperature of the air which in the night
feafon is produced by the obliquity of the fun's rays. We af-
cended the Muonio until we arrived at the little river of Pallojoki,
at a fmall diftance from which there is a fettlcmcnt, or colonv,
called Pallajovenio.
This colony is the proper boundary of Lapland towards Tornea ;
accordingly it is named in the map Tornea Lapmark : therefore
until you have reached Pallajovenio, you cannot be faid geogra-
phically to have fet foot in Lapland. The whole of that vaft
tradl of country which comprehends Lulea, Pitea, and Umea, as
far as Tornea, properly belongs to Weft Bothnia. In this refpcct
travellers are greatly miftaken, and fuppofe they have been in
Lapland when they have got as far as Tornea ; whereas Weft
Bothnia makes an angle more to the north, nearly the diftance of
two hundred and forty miles beyond Tornea. If a perfon, when
in Sweden, wifhes to fee Lapland merely for the credit of having
vifited that country, he has no occafion to go farther than Afele,
which is about an hundred miles at moft diftant from Umea, on
the borders of Angermanland ; but if he defires to fee a country
different from any that he has ever fecn, and to contemplate the
manners of a people unlike, in every particular, to all the inhabi-
tants of Europe, he muft proceed northwards, and leave behind
him the great towns, and all notions of a civilized ftate of focicty.
The
30 TRAVELS
The geographical divifion of a country is a matter arranged be-
twixt fovereigns, and does not depend on the hand of nature. The
king of Sweden may, with a ftroke of his pen, convert into Lap-
land w hat is now Weft Bothnia ; but fuch changes will efFed:
no alteration in the manners of the people, nor in the natural con-
dition of the country.
It is remarkable that Maupertuis who compofed an abridgment
of geography, Ihould have known fo little of a country wherein he
made fo many obfervations. He conftantly confounds Lapland
with Weft Bothnia, and gives to his journey, which only extended
to the borders of Lapland, the title of Voyage on Fond de la Lap-
pon'ie, " a Journey into the Interior of Lapland." All other tra-
vellers after him feem to have fallen into the like miftake, and
fancied they had been in Lapland, when they had got as far as
Tornea. They have likewife confounded the Lapland tongue
with the language of Finland ; and when they have brought with
them a fervant girl born in the town of Tornea, have fuppofed
they had got a Laplander.
The country from Tornea to Muouionifca and Pallajovenio,
though it changes its appearance to that of a wildernefs, does not
greatly vary. The mountains are the fame ; the cataracts, lakes
and woods carry a near refemblance : in fhort, the objecSs that
prefent themfelves to the eye, have not a fufficient degree of diver-
fity to render them worthy of obfervation. The face of the coun-
try, however, proceeding from Pallajovenio to Kautokeino, by
jhe little river Pallojoki, is very different. The fmall rivers in
general
THROUGH LAPLAND. 3,
general are moil Intercfting to a curious traveller, becaufc they are
not fo often viiitcd, and both the country and the people are lefs
known ; whereas the larger rivers arc more frequented, efpecially
in winter, when they ferve as a high road for thofc that come
from Muonionifca and Tornea. Hence the natives that live near
thefe rivers become familiar with Grangers, and cannot be viewed
fo much in their own natural character, as thofe who arc merely
acquainted with the objeds that belong to themfelves and their
country. The paflage northward on the Muonio, from Muonio-
nifca to Enonteki, is very fimilar to that from Kengis to Muonio-
nifca, or to that from Upper Tornea to Kengis.
Pallajovenio is a fettlement of Finlanders, confining of about
four or five families. The merchants of Tornea have built a fmall
place, which confifts of a room, where they can make a fire, and
refrefla themfelves, as tfiey pafs through this colony during the
winter, in their way to the fairs. The people of Pallajovenio ap-
peared to be much at their cafe ; their dwellings leemed to be
comfortable and neat, and different from thofe of the other pea-,
fants of this country.
We refrefhed ourfelves at this place, and taking our departure,
proceeded on the river Muonio to where it joins the Pallojoki,
which we afcended in order to get to Lappajervi. This palfage,
if performed in a ftraight line, would not be above twelve miles,
but owing to the windings of the river, it made a journey of more
than thirty. The river Pallojoki prefented to us difficulties of a
kind we had not experienced during the whole of our expedition.
As:-
32 TRAVELS
As no rain had fallen in this country for fome time, the water was
fo fliallow, that the boat ran aground, and it became necelTary to
land in order to lighten it. The windings of the river were lb
frequent and fo contrary, that our progrefs was very tedious. Our
boatmen were obliged to undergo great labour in moving the boat
forward : fometimes they were compelled to get out and tow it ;
at other times to lift it up and carry it on their flioulders to a con-
siderable diftance, where the bed of the river was nearly dry. In
addition to the great exertion and fatigue which thefe good people
had to bear, they were kept conflantly wet ; and though their
toils were exceffive, they advanced but little in their journey, fince
the curvature of the river would often bring them back to a fmall
diftance from the place from which they had with fo much troxible
proceeded. This was mortifying and difcouraging in the extreme.
We ourfelves, who went on foot along the banks, had no better
rcafon to be fatisfied with our condition. We had every where
to force our way through bufties and briars, and it was with much
difficulty that we could go on at all, being frequently flopped by
branches of trees, and having the veils torn away which covered
our faces, and fecured us from the attacks of the mufquetoes.
However, the fudden change of fcene, and the view ot the coun-
try, together with the novelty of manners and appearance in the
inhabitants, made us in fome meafure amends for thefe hardfhips
and inconveniencies.
Before we arrived at Lappajervi, we halted for fome time on a
rock of confiderable fizc, which was Separated by the river from
the
J
THROUGH LxVPLAND. > 3
the adjoining land. Here we made a large fire, in order to drive
away the infe<5ls, that we might take our dinner with comfort.
The country around offered a fcene very uncommon, and to us
quite new. The mofs on which the rein-deer feeds covers the
whole ground, which is flat, and only lliirtcd by hills at Ibmc dis-
tance ; but thefe hills alfo are clothed with this mols. The co-
lour of the mofs is a pale yellow, which, when dry, changes to
white : the regularity of its fliape, and the uniform manner in
which the furface of the ground is decked with it, appears very
fmgular and ftriking : it has the fcmblance of a beautiful carpet.
Thefe plants grow in a fliape nearly odagonal, and approaching
to a circle ; and as they clofely join each other, they form a kind
of mofaic work, or embroidery. The w hite appearance of the
country, which thence arifes, may for a mon>ent make you ima-
gine that the ground is covered with fnow ; but the idea of a win-
ter icene is done away by the view of little thickets in full green,
which you perceive fcattered here and there, and ftill more by the
prefence of the fun and the warmth of his rays. As this mofs is
very dry, nothing can poffibly be more pleafant to walk upon, nor
can there be any thing fofter to ferve as a bed. Its cleannefs and
whitcnefs is tempting to the fight, and when we had put up our
tent, we found ourfelves in every refpedl very comfortably lodged.
I had many times before met with this mofs, but in no place had
I found it fo rich. It was the only produce here, which nature
icemed to favour and fupport : no other herb was growing near it,
nor any other vegetable on the fpot, except a few birch-trees,
Vol. 11. F with
34 TRAVELS
with their underwood, and fome firs, difperfed on the hill by the
river fide. All thefe feemed to vegetate with difficulty, as if de-
prived of their nourifliment by the mofs, and appeared withering
and ftunted. Some trees, indeed, which grow very near the
water, had the appearance of being in a flourifhing flate, perhaps
owing to the moifture they derived from the river : but, in fliort,
this mofs appeared to be the royal plant, which ruled abfolutc
over the vegetable kingdom of the country, and difiributed its
bounty and influence amongft a particular race of men and ani-
mals.
We arrived at Lappajervi in the evening, and our boatmen
were glad to take fbme reft after their wearifome voyage. When
we arrived on the borders of the lake, we fell in with two Lap-
land fifliermen, who had returned from their day's fifliing, and
were preparing to pafs the night there. We were guided to the
fpot where they were by a large column of fmoke, which mounted
^\ into the air. On approaching them we found that they had be-
fmeared their faces with tar, and covered their heads and flioulders
with a cloth to protedl themfclves from the mufquetoes. One of
them was fmoking tobacco, and the other was fecuring the fifli
they had taken from the depredations of the infedls. Their
meagre and fqualid looks difcovered evident figns of wretchednefs.
They were covered from head to foot by fwarms of mufquetoes,
from whofe ftings their clothing fcarcely Ihielded them. They
were melting with heat, yet they durft not throw off their cover-
ing, much Icfs remove from before the fire. Our arrival added
million^
THROUGH L/U^LAND. ' ^^
millions of thefe flies to the myriads already there, as their num-
bers were continuall)' increafing in our paflai^c thither. It was
impoffible to fland a moment llill ; every inftant we were forced
to thruft our heads into the midll of the fmoke, or to leap over
the flame to rid ourfelves of our cruel perfecutors:
We drew our boat afliore, and walked about a mile into the
country to vifit the families of thefe two Lapland fiflicrs, who had
fixed their conftant habitation tha*e. We found fires every where
kept up : the pigs had their fire, the cows had theirs ; there was
one in the infide of the houfe, and another without, clofe to the
door. The Lapland houfes arc not fo large as thofe of the Fin-
landers, The door-way of the one we faw here was only four
feet high, fo that we found it neccflary to floop as we entered
We had left our tent behind us, fuppofing wc fliould find accom-
modation to pafs the night with the Laplanders, and that it would
at leaft be equally good as that we had met with amongft the
Finlanders ; but we found ourfelves difappointed : however, we
were forced to put up with what convenience the people could
ofter us; and therefore, when it was time to retire to reft, wc
were accommodated with rein-deer ik.ins, laid over fmall birchen
twigs and leaves, which were fpread on the ground, in a fmall
apartment filled with fmoke. We groped our way into our bed-
chamber, becaufe the fmoke hindered us from feeing any light.
Some time after w^e had laid ourfelves down to fleep, I heard a
breathing, which feemed to proceed from a corner of the room,
and which we were unable to account for, as we fuppofed our-
F 2 , felvcs
36 TRAVELS
felves the only living creatures in this place. I imagined it was a
dog, or fome other animal, ^^ hich had taken his night's lodging
there. Prefently I heard a loud figh, which fcemed rather to be
littered by a human being than the animal I judged to be our
fellow lodger. I raifcd my head up gently to try if I could dif-
cover any thing. Some cracks in the fide of the walls, and a few
openings in the roof, afforded a faint light, and in order to afcer-
tain the caufe of our alarm, I crept forward on my hands and
knees. As the diftance was but fliort, I foon reached the fpot
from whence the founds came, and found two children naked,
and lying upon deer-fklns. The children were fuddenly awaked,
and feeing me approach them in the pofturc defcribed, fancied
themfelves in danger of an attack from fome wild beaft, and raa
out of the room, crying to their mother for help.
CHAPTER
raROUGH LAPL.\ND. 37
CHAPTER V.
Lake of Pallajervi, and the JJland of K'mtafan — Stay on this Jfland:
Occnpatio7is and Amufements — Tlie Sea Swallow (Sterna Hirundo,
Lin.J : Sagacity of thefe Birds, and their Utility to Fipicrmen —
Some Laplanders engaged for the Profecutimt of the Journey — De-
parture from Kintafari — Afmall River called Rejljih — Defcrip-
tion of the Laplanders that were to attend the Author — Their want
cf Clean lifufs — The Finlanders difmiffed — Proceed on Foot with
the Laplanders — Temper and Difpofition of thefe People — If 'eat her
extremely hot : great Inconvenience thence arifing — Come to a Lake
called Kervijervi, which they crofs in Boats,
A T Lappajervi we received no very encouraging intelligence
■^ -^ rcfpecling the poiTibility of profecuting the remainder of
the way to Kauto Keino. The diltance is feventy miles : we had
feveral lakes to crofs, rivers to afcend and defcend, and difficult
fwamps to pafs over, and covdd have no hopes of meeting with
an habitation, or even a human creature, throughout the whole
courfe of the journey : but we had formed a determined rcfolution,
from our firft fetting out upon this expedition, not to be diicou-
raged by any account or relation of difficulties, but rather to be
-. • witnefl'es
38 TRAVELS
witneflcs ourfelves of their reality. To this determination the
fuccefs of our undertaking is chiefly to be afcribed.
We were given to underftand that we might poffibly meet with
fome Lapland filhermen upon the lake of Pallajervi ; and with
tJiis view we afcended the little river Pallajoki, which derives its
fource from it. This river is fo fliallow, of fo little width, and
twilled into fo many windings, that it is with great difficulty na-
vigated. Our embarraflments in afcending it multiplied as wc
proceeded : we were under the neceffity, for the greater part of
the courfe, to carry our baggage upon our backs, in order to
lighten our boat. When we arrived at the lake there arofe fo
ftrong a wind, that our boat was in danger of finking before we
could make the little ifland of Kintafari. When we gained the
ifland, we difcovered three fifhermen, who had ered.ed a kind of
hut with boughs of trees, plaftered over with mud, and had hung
up in it a quantity of firti to dry. This little ifland might take
up about half an hour to walk round it. Near it was another
ifland, about a fourth part lefs; but this was fb inconfiderable as
to be without a name.
The lake was furrounded with little hills covered with rein-
deer mofs, interfperfed with woods of birch and fir. We were
every where prefcnted with the contraftcd view defcribed before,
•which adled fo forcibly upon our imagination, that we could not
but fancy ourfelves upon fome inchanted ifland. When we looked
round us, we difcovered nothing that refembled any country we
had hitherto fccn, and we feemed to be tranfported into a new
world.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 39
world. The fun, which flione upon us, never funk below our
horizon ; and we beheld almoft no colour but white intermixed
with green. Thefe objects, joined to the habitation of the fiflier-
mcn, the novelty of the flowers which ornamented the iflc, that
of the birds which made the woods refound with their notes, all
contributed to aftonifli our fcnfcs, that had not anticipated fuch
extraordinary fccnes. Our tent, when fet up, appeared to be the
palace of the illand, and was as ftrlkingly fuperior to the hut of
the Laplanders, as the refidence of fovereign princes to the dwell-
ings of their fubjcds. We got into our boat on purpofe to take a
furvey of our fituation from the lake, and we pleafed ourfelves
with the contemplation of the magnificent appearance of our new
kingdom. The infide of our tent was carpetted with blrchcn-
leaves ftrewed over the mofs, which afforded a delicious perfume.
Our fifhermen leemed furprifed at the fplendour of our manfion,
and, for the firft time, had a pattern of luxury exhibited before
them of which they had conceived no idea. The three days wc
paiTed on this ifland were fpent delightfully : the lake furniflicd
our table with the fineft fifli, wc found plenty of game in the
woods; wc filhed, we hunted, wc bathed in the lake; we took
views of the landfcapes furrounding us, and collected plants and
infedls. We followed thefe feveral amufements without the Icaft
interruption from the mufquetoes, which, fortunately, had been
driven off the Ifland bv the violent wind before mentioned, which
likewlfe had contributed to cool the air, infomuch, as to make the
thermometer fall feven degrees.
We
40 IRAVELvS
We experienced additional plcafure every time the fifliermen
returned from their labour, Joy fcemed to brighten up their
countenances ; their approach was announced to us long before
we faw them, by the flocks of fea fwallows (Jlcrna Innindo, Lin.)
which hovered in the air, feeming, by their cries, to welcome their
arrival on the Ihore. Thefe birds feed on the fmall fifties, which
the fifhermcn caft out to them, or leave in the boats when they
clear out their nets. There appeared to be an agreement and un-
derflanding betwixt the men and thefe birds, which depend upon
the fifliery for fubfiftence and fupport during this feafbn. They
came duly at the fame hour in the morning, as if to inform the
fifliermen it was time to begin their work ; and the latter needed
no other regulator. The birds fet off with the boats, and ferved
the fiflicrs as guides in the profecution of their calling, by hovering
over thofe parts of the lake where the fifti were colled:ed in the
largefl: fhoals. The fight of thefe birds is particularly keen, {o
that when the fifliermen heard their cries, and faw them plunging
into the water, they knew thofe were the moft proper places to
caft their nets in with a probability of fuccefs ; and herein they
were fure not to be deceived, but, on the contrary, never failed to
take the mofl: fifli where they were direded by the birds. The
fifliermen had fuch an attachment to thefe fwallows, that they ex-
prefled much uneafinefs whenever we feemed defirous to take
feme of them by way of fpecimens. The birds were become fo
tame and familiar, that they would feize the fmall fifli in the
nets, and even in the boats, in the prefcnce of the fifliermen;
and
THROUGH LAPLAND, 41
and they were fo nimble in tlieir flight, that if a fifli was thrown
up into the air, they would dart down upon it, and catch it in its
defcent before it reached the water. As the fifhcrmen appeared
to be apprehenfive that they would leave them if a gun was to be
fired off, I made a trial of taking them by means of a hook and
line. Accordingly I contrived to bury a hook in the body of a
fiHi, and holding the other end of the ftring, to throw the bait at
feme diftance from me : but this contrivance was attended with
no fuccefs ; for fuch is their keennefs of fight, that they difcovered
the device, and though they feized the fifli, they would not gorge
it when they found it was made fafl to a ftring.
It has been already mentioned that we remained three days on
this ifland ; and we made this flay in order to prepare and take
proper meafures for purfuing our journey. Every thing depended
on the chance of meeting with wandering Laplanders, who might
affift us to crofs the mountains with their rein-deer, and flicw us
the paffages through which we might continue our route. In
order to afcertain the probability of this, we fent forward one of
the fiflicrmen from ofF the ifland to enga<re anv he mieht meet
Avith, and appoint a place where we might join them. Our envoy
had full power to treat, and make them fuch propofals as he fluould
judge would be accepted. He fet off, and promifed to be back
in four and twenty hours. On the fecond day after his departure
we became imeafy ; but when the third day paiTed without his
returning, the fifliermcn, his comrades, grew alarmed, and were
at a lofs to account for this delay. Alone as he was, and croffmgr
FoL. II. G an
42 ' ' TRAVELS
an uninhabited country, he was In no danger of harm from any
living creature, except the bear, which in the fummer is far from
being ferocious. He might, indeed, have fallen down a precipice,
or loft his wav in the woods, and fo have been unable to recover
the boat. The fiQiermen were preparing to fet out in fcarch of
him, and we began to defpair of being able to proceed any farther,
when, to the great fatisfadion of all of us, he made his appear-
ance. He related to us, that having been difappointed in meet-
ing with Laplanders on the neareft mountains, he was unwilling
to go back without effe<5ting the objedl of his miffion, and went
onwards, until at length he fell in with two families, whom he
condudled with him to the banks of a rivulet called Reftijoki,
where he had left them waiting until we joined them.
This intelligence was the fignal for our departure from the
ifland. Our tent was taken down and packed up, and biddmg
adieu to our fifiiermen we fet forward.
We foon reached the mouth of the rivulet, on the banks of
■which the rendezvous was appointed. We afcended it through
all its windings, and were impatient to join the Laplanders, left
they fliould think us long in coming, and grow tired of waiting
for us, for we had conceived no high opinion either of their pa-
tience or their complaifance. At length we arrived where they
were. The party was compofed of fix men and a young girL
We found them feated under a birch-tree, on the branches of
which they had hung up the provifions for the journey, which
confifted of dry fifli. They lay along the ground in different pof-
tures.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 43
tures, furrounding a large fire by which they roafted their filh,
which, for this purpofc, was held in cleft {ticks, cut from the tree
which fliaded them. The girl was the firft who perceived
us, and pointed us out to the men, who fecmed to pay atten-
tion only to their cooking, fo that we landed, and walked up to
them, without being the Icaft noticed or regarded. The men
were clothed in a kind of fmock- frock, made of the fkin of the
rein-deer, with a collar ereft, and flitFened behind. They wore
a belt about their waifts, which confined their drefs clofe to their
bodies, and drew it into the form of a bag, wherein they put
whatever they had occafion to carry about with them. They had
pantaloons on, likewife made of rein-deer's fkin, with fhort boots,
the foles of which were wide, and fluffed out with dry graft. The
girl wore pantaloons and boots of the fame fliapc ; but her cloth-
ing was of wool, and her cap, which was made of green cloth,
was pointed upwards. They were mofl of them very fliort ; and'
their moil remarkable features were their fmall cheeks, fliarp chins,
and prominent check bones. The face of the girl was not un-
handfomc ; flie appeared to be about eighteen or iiineteen years
of age ; her complexion was fair, with light hair approaching to
a chefnut colour. Four out of the fix men had black hair ; from
whence I conclude this to be the prevailing colour amongft the
Laplanders, diftinguifliing them from the Finlanders, amongfl:
whom, during the whole of my journey, I did not remark one
who had hair of that colour.
The perfons and drefs of thefc Laplanders, taken altogether,
G 2 were
■U ■ ' TRAVELS
were the moft filchy and difagreeable that it is pofllble to con-
ceive. Thev held the fiila they were eating in their hands,' and
the oil that diftillcd from it ran down their arms, and into the
fleeves of their coats, which might be fcented at the diftance of
feme yards. The girl had rather more cleanlinefs in her peri(>n,
and fbme portion of that decency which is fo peculiar to her fex.
This y/as apparent in her refufing the drink that was offered to
her, and e/pecially brandy, of which llie was in reality as fond as
the men. This affedation of modefty and reluiSance in women
to poffefs what they wifii for, but which at the fame time they
apprehend would be unbecoming, appear to be qualities inherent
in the fex, fmce this prudery is obfervable even among womea
in Lapland.
We now fet about landing our baggage, and fettling accounts
with our honeft Finlanders, who had faithfully and duly attended
us from Aluonionifca, and brought us fafely fo far on our journey*.
We had conceived a great regard for thefe worthy men ; and we
percei\'cd, on parting with them, a tear of affedion ftealing down
their cheeks, which demanded a fimilar acknowledgment. They
took leave of us, returning their thanks, and taking us by the
hand ; and fo fhrongly did we feel in our own hearts the like
cordiality of fcntiment, that we could not refufe them fuch a
token of familiarity and regard. The Laplanders, notwithftand-
ing the natural phlegm of their temper, did not remain inattenr
tive obfervers of the fcene that was paffing before them, and could
not but derive from it a favourable opinion of us, and even find
their
THROUGH LAPLxVND. 45
their zeal excited to fome exertion for our fervicc, if it be poflible
to excite the leaft fentiment in minds fo torpid as theirs. We
were not, however, difpleafed that they were vvitneffcs of the Iktis- ,
fadlion we had given our Finlanders, and the regret they expreffed
on parting w ith us ; and we hoped this example would infpirc
them with reiped; for us, and a dellre to ufe all the activity neceC-
lary to accomplifli the objed: for which we had engaged them..
After our Finlanders had taken tlieir leave, and were departed,
we found ourfelves as it were cut off from all communication
with the reft of the world ; the completion of our enterprize, nay,
our very exiftcnce, were at once in the hands of thefe Laplanders.
If the continuation of our journey appeared to be impra6licable,
and they fhould forfake us, there was no means of return left to
the little Ifland^ and the filhermen of Kantafari ; for we had no
longer a boat to convey us acrofs the lake to that charming retreat,
which we had fo lately quitted, and with fo much regret. But
to quiet our apprehenfions, we confidered that thefe Laplanders
were not a cruel people ; and although they were feven in numr
ber, with the girl, we confidered ourfelves as a match for them,
notwithftanding we only muftered four altogether, that is to f-dy
the interpreter, a fervant. Colonel Skioldebrand, and myfcll. The
reafon why they came fo many in number as feven, was in order
to tranfport our baggage ; becaufe, as they informed us, the rcin^
deer were at this feafon particularly untradable and dangerous,
on account of the prodigious fwarms of mufquetoes, which tor-
ment them to a degree of madnefs: fo that perhaps they might
run from us and be loft altogether with our provifions and bag-
Jl6 > TRAVELS
gage, a circumftance which would leave us in a very unpleafant
fituatlon. We left it to them to divide our baggage into feven
parcels, one for each, including the girl, who was to be made to
carry her proportion. We remarked a degree of equity in the
diftribution of the burthens, which impreffed us with no unfavour-
able idea of the character of thefe people. We obferved that they
gave the lighted packets to fuch as appeared unequal to a heavier
load. To excite in them an attention to juftice, and to each
other, we gave each of them a glafs of brandy when they fet about
making the divifion, promifmg them another when it was made.
On beginning their march they afked for a third, and though we
feared this third glafs would intoxicate them, yet we durft not
difpleafe them by a refufal. In order to induce us the more rea-
dily to comply with their requefh as to a third glafs, they quoted
a Lapland proverb as their authority for it, which fays, " Before
" a journey take a glafs for the body's fake ; at fetting off take
" another for courage fake." At length we began our march,
each of our Laplanders with his load of baggage, one of them
taking the lead, and the reft following one by one in fmgle file.
This was the firft time during our whole journey that we had
travelled in this manner, and we were wonderfully delighted with
the fmgular appearance which our caravan made. We kept in
the rear of the line of march, in order that we might fee that no
part of our baggage was dropt or loft, and moreover to obferve the
condudl of thofe that went before. The pleafure we had in re-
viewing this proceffion was deftroyed by the intolerable ftench
which thefe filthy Laplanders left behind them, when they began
to
THROUGH LAPLAND. 47
to perfplrc. It was beyond what I am able to dcfcrihe ; and
were I ever fo equal to the talk, I am fure the reader would not
thank me for the perufal ot" lb ill-favoured a compofition.
The degree of heat was twenty-nine in the fliade, and forty-five
in the fun. The ground burned our feet ; and the few flirubs we
met with in our v/ay afforded us little or no flieltcr. We were
almoll: fuffocated with heat ; and to add to our fufferings, we were
under the neceflity of wearing a drcfs of thick woollen cloth, as
a fecurity from the infects, and to cover our faces with a veil,
which in a great meafure prevented our drawing breath. This
extraordinary degree of heat fbon operated moft powerfully upon
our Laplanders, who had already fwallowcd three glaffes of brandy-
each. They laid themfelves down to reft at every fliort diftancc,
and were calling out every moment for more brand}\ We foon
difcovered that we had no longer to do with Finlanders, who are
a fober, robuft, a6live, and hardy race of people. We had now
to deal v.-ith a fet of wretches who cared only for fermented li-
quors, and wxre unwilling to work. In this manner we went on
for fix miles from the beginning of our journey, in which dillance
they {lopped to take reft about fifty times, and as many times
each of them alked for brandy. If we had not come to the refo
lution to deny them when they afked, we fhould have made no
progrefs that day. They were dying with thirft, and the firft
fpring they came to they dipped their heads in, like fo many pigs,
and drank full as large draughts. We were at very conliderable
trouble throughout the whole of this journey, both in making
our Laplanders go on and in keeping them from ftraggling.
When
48 TRAA^ELS
When one tumbled down, the whole line of march was flopped ;
when the word lialt was given, all the caravan threw itfclf on the
ground ; and it was not without much entreaty that we could
get the individuals of it to raife themfelves again on their legs.
We were nearly fix hours in going fix miles. At length we
reached the borders of a fmall lake called Kevijervi, on the right
of which a chain of mountains extends itfelf, and forms the
boundaries of Finmark, or Norwegian Lapland, and Swedifli
Lapland. On the border of this lake we found two boats which
were in a moft fliattered condition, full of leaks, with oars that
were fplit and of unequal lengths. Thefe boats were built by
the Laplanders, and left in the place mentioned, buried in fnow"
during the winter, and expofed to all weathers. Such were the
boats in which we were now to crofs this lake, about a mile
over, and the only conveyance that could pofTibly be procured
for this purpofe. Two Laplanders rowed, and two more fcooped
out the water, which flowed in at fcveral leaks as faft as they
could throw it out : and had they ceafed baling, the boats would
have filled in a fhort fpace of time, and we fliould all have gone
to the bottom. Yet, notwithftanding that we were all placed
in this perilous fituation, we obferved, not without great indig-
nation, that our Lapland rowers plied their oars, and pulled as
leiiurely, and with as much phlegmatic calmnefs, as if there had
. not been the leafl occafion for their exertion.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND. 49
CHAPTER VI.
The Plant Angelica, accounted delicious Food by the Laplanders : its
faliitary Qualities — The Molejiation from the Mufquetoes aug-
mented— Arrive at the river Pepojovaivi — Meet luith fome Lap-
land Fi/Jiermen, and two Children — Manners of thefe People; Be-
haviour of the Children — Tlie Laplanders cook their Supper : their
Mode of Eating — Sufpicion they entertain of the fuppofed Emif-
faries of Government — The Miffionaries in Lapland — Notions of
the Laplanders concerfiing Religiofi and civil Ift/litutio?is — Their
unfocial Way of Living — Increafe of Wolves in Lapland during
late Years — Journey purfued in Boats, on the River Pepojovaivi.
TT7E gained at laft the oppolite banks of the lake, and without
any accident. Our Laplanders quitted the boats, and we
purfued our journey on foot as before. On the border of this lake,
one of tJiefe people fpying a certain plant, ran to gather it, and
devoured it with as much avidity as if it had been the mod deli-
cious morfel in the world. It was the famous plant Angelica,
the chief luxury of the North, and which is deemed a very great
antifcorbutic. Being defirous of tafling it, one was given to me,
and I found it fo agreeable to my palate, that I foon became
fonder of it than c\cn the Laplanders thcmlclvcs. I am fully
Vol. II. H convinced
50 TRAVELS
convinced that I owe to this plant the uninterrupted good health
which I enjoyed during all the time I was in thofe parts ; where
we had nothing elTc for our fubfiftence than dried or falted fifli,
the dried flefli of the rein-deer, hard cheele, bifcuit, and brandy ;
all of them heating and insalubrious aliments. The angelica was
the only thing that was frefli, and the only vegetable that we had
at our table. My companion, who had no relifli for this plant,
was often troubled with pains in his ftomach, and with indi-
geftion.
Though it was now drawing tow^ards midnight, the torment
we fuffered from the mufquetocs, inftead of being abated was
increafed. The night was perfectly calm, and the infe(R:s at-
tracted by the effluvia of our Laplanders, purfued us in our
courfe, furroundcd us, and involved us as In a cloud. After tra-
velling three miles over the rein-deer mofs, and through flunted
fhrubs, we arrived greatly fatigued at the banks of the river Pe-
pojovalvi, where we found a fire with fomc Lapland fiflier-
men fitting by it, and two children about five or fix years of age.
We began to make preparations for paffing the night here, and
the Laplanders fet about cooking their fupper. The mufquetoes
this night annoyed us fo terribly, that it was not without the ut-
moft difficulty we were able to fwallow a morfel of viftuals.
There was not fo much as a breath of wind : the column of
irnoke that ifTued from the fire mounted ftraight upward in the
atmofphere, fb that we were deprived of the benefit of fumiga-
tion, and of taking what food we had, under the protedion of a
cloud
THROUGH LAPLAND. 51
cloud of fmoke. We were obliged to eat with gloves on ; and
at every niorfcl we put into our mouths we were under the
neceffity of drawing alldc the veils that covered our faces, very
gently and with great circumfpedlion, for fear of the infedls en-
tering along with our refrefliment. In fpite of all our prcc autions
the mufquetoes were fometimes fvvallowed together with our
viands. In order to be quit ot fo dilgufling a fauce, we were
compelled at each morfel we put into our mouths, to draw near
the fire, and thruft our heads into the rifmg column of fmoke.
We chofc rather to encounter all the bad effects of the fmoke,
and to be half fuffocated, than to fwallow thofe peftlferous ani-
mals.
In order to remedy the inconveniency occafioned by the defect
of a breeze, which might waft the fmoke horizontally, and thus
make us partakers of its kind influence, we bethought us of the
following contrivance : we kindled three fires around us, in the
midft of which we were glad to remain, notwithftanding the ex-
ceffive heat. I cannot at this moment account to myfelf why
we did not think of fetting up our tent, under which we certainly
Ihould have enjoyed greater comfort, and have been lefs tor-
mented by the infects. Perhaps it was, that we did not expect to
remain long in this place, and becaufe the erection of our tent
always took up fome time ; or it might be too carefully packed up,
or perhaps we had not the means at hand of erecting it. It often
happens that a pcrfon does things for which he afterwards can
affign no direct reafon, though at the time he may have had lati?-
factory grounds for his proceedings.
52 TRAVELS
After lupper \vc employed ourfelves in obferving all the man-
ners and actions of the Laplanders, in order to form an idea of
their mode of living. With this view we propofed feveral qucf-
tions to them. The two children were chubby, robuft, and
hearty. They did not feem to be at all ftruck with furprife or
awe at our appearance, nor were they in the leaft difcompofed by
our prefence, or put out of their ufual way. They went to the
river and fetched water, which they would fometimes throw on
our Ihoes, and fometimes on our baggage. They did fome damage
or other to every thing they laid their hands on, and deranged
whatever was within their reach ; yet the Laplanders took no
more notice of the children's behaviour, than if they had net
exifled. They faw all their motions ; they fuffered all the mifchief
they did with the moft perfect indifference. They cared for no-
thing. The children feemed to be the ibvereigns of the place-.
The Laplanders never faid fo much as one word to them of any
kind. They never obferved that it was not well done to throve
water on the flioes of ftrangers, or gave them any leffons refpect-
jng good manners and propriety of conduct. Thefe, indeed, are
terms and ideas with which the Laplanders are wholly unac-
quainted ; and their only mode of training up their children is not
to train them at all.
In the mean time, while the children were thus engaged in
doing all the mifchief in their power, the old Laplanders were
bufied in cooking their fupper, which confifted of various fifli cut
into pieces and boiled in a pot, together with fome dried fat of
the
THROUGH LAPLAND. 53
the rein-deer and a little meal : the whole formed a curious kind
of mefs. While the pot was ftill on the fire, all the Laplanders
fat around it, each with a fpoon in his hand, for the purpofe of
tailing when the foup was ready : when fujfJiciently boiled, they
began to partake of the mefs out of the fame pot altogether. When
any one had taken as much as fatisfied him, he fell afleep, and
when he awoke he immediately began to cat again while others
flept ; then thefe would awake, and again eat, while the former
elapfed into his flumber ; and thus they alternately eat and flept
till they were fatisfied with the one, and incapable of taking more
of the other. There did not appear to be any kind of rule or
order among thofc people ; no beginning of any thing, and no
end. Their only regulator and guide feemed to be appetite and
inlFmct.
When they were not occupied with either eating or fleeping,
they fmoked tobacco. With one or two who preferred fmoking
to fleeping we had an opportunity of holding fome converfation,
in the courfe of which they afked us fome queftions. They en-
quired if any one of us was the king, or a fon of the king, or a
Gommiflary of the king ? They defired to know, why we came
into their country ? and what we were going to do there ? I dif-
covered that thefe people entertained fufpicions that we were
emifl!aries from government, fent to fpy their fituation and con-
dition, their wealth, and their condud. From a great deal of
jargon in a language, but little of which was intelligible even to
our interpreter, we found out their objc<fl was to convince us of
their
54 TRAVELS
their great poverty. The anfwers they made to our queftlons were
not fo frank and plaui as might have been expected from fuch
fimpletons. The pafiions which fo often make men of fenfe a6l
like fools, fometimes give art and addrefs to the moft ftupid ; and
there is none of thofe pafiions fo much adapted to produce effeds
of this kind as felfifiinefs, and an anxious intereft to protedl pro-
perty.
When the kings of the North, animated by a fpirit of religion
and piety, fent miffionaries into thofe forlorn regions to preach
the Gofpel and propagate the Chriftian religion, the mifllonarics
did not only make the poor natives pay the expences of their
journey, but alfo gave them to underftand that they were to be re-
munerated for their trouble. That wandering people had hitherto
lived without priefts, and without any kind of burthen ; in fadl,
becaufe they were too poor to pay to the exigencies of ftate. They
worfhipped in their own way, juft how and when they pleafcd, a
number of gods, who coft them nothing, except now and then a
facrifice, which they themfelves ate up, and of which they left
nothing to their deities but the bones and horns.
At firfl:, it may be prefumed, they were not a little chagrined
at being called on to fliare their wealth with Grangers, whom they
conceived they could do very well without. Being weak from
indolence and idlencfs, as well as natural conftitution, difperfed,
difunited by their manner of life, attached only to their herds,
and incapable of combining among themfelves, in order to form
any plan of oppofition and refiftance, they fubmifiively, and with-
out
THROUGH LAPLAND. 55
out rclu«5lancc, believed whatever the pricfts deemed proper to
tell them, and tamely and indolently gave up a part of their good
things in order to prcferve the rctl. The priefls, on the other
hand, followed the fame principles in Lapland, no doubt, as in
other countries, and were not more zealoully concerned for the
falvation of fouls, than careful that no one fliould go without the
benefit of their inflrudtions, who pofTciTed fome hundreds of rein-
deer. The poor ignorant Laplanders paid with tolerable pati-
ence the contributions required by the miffionaries, who promifed
them happincfs in another world, which probably, according to
their limited conceptions, would confill; in drinking brandy from
morning to night. Nothing opens men's eyes fo effedtually as
their interefls ; and on what account, or by what rule of right or
rcafon, they are compelled to fliare their property with the com-
miiTaries of government, from whofc police, laws, and juftice,
they derived no manner of advantage, is a matter of which they
have no conception. In fad:, they look upon rulers and their
commiflaries in no other light than that of robbers, who like to
live in eafe and luxury, at the cxpence of others, without taking
the trouble, like themfelves, of following the rein-deer, or even
being at the pains either of fifliing or hunting. They have no
idea of the utility of vifitors from whom they derive no protec-
tion or benefit, and whom they confider merely as men who cat
and drink, and confume the flibftance of hundreds of other men.
Such are the notions entertained by the true, or vagabond Laplan-
ders, who remain in their native deferts, and who, lliut up in their
mountains.
^6 TRAVELS
mountains, never approach near enough to civilized focieties to
acquire any ideas of their form and conftitution. Free by nature,
their manner of hving exempts them from the neceffity of laws.
They dwell in a country which cannot be inhabited by any other
race of mortals. They feed their rein-deer with a vegetable re-
jected by every other animal. Their only fociety confifts in the
union of a few families drawn together partly by common wants,
and partly by focial affedlion : and when two fuch families, with
their herds, chance to meet on the fame fpot, there is land enough
for the one to accoft the other in the words of Abraham to
Lot: — " If thou wilt take the left hand, then I will go to the
" right ; or if thou depart to the right hand, then I will go to
« the left."
It was not without extreme difficulty that v^^e ^^•ere able to
perfuade our Laplanders that we were neither kings nor commif-
faries, nor priefts, but only private individuals who were travel-
ling from mere curioiity. The principle of curiofity, which exifts
only in cultivated minds, and which is derived either from felf-
intereft, in fearch of fomething that may be advantageous, or from
the pride of knowing more than other men, or from a defire of
comparing what is already known with fome objed; or objects not
yet known — this principle is obvioufly too abflrufe, and can in
no wife enter into the head of a roving Laplander. During the
whole of our intercourfe with thcfe people, we could never dif^
cover among them the fmalleft iign of any fentlment of religion
or devotion. They never offered up aiiy prayer to the Deity
when
THROUGH LAPLAND. 57
when they went to eat, nor w hen they retired to reft, nor at rifmg
in the morning.
Exatlly at the hour of midnight, when the fun was elevated
about two diameters above the horizon, we had an inchnation to
try the experiment, whether wc could not light our pipes by
means of a burning-glafs. The attempt fucceedcd completely.
At this phenomenon the Laplanders fliewed greater emotion and
wonder than they had yet done on any other occafion. We had
a notion that they began to take us for forcerers ; and under this
idea we put fome queftions to them on the fubjed; of forccry,
of which we had heard fo much in all the accounts of Lapland.
We afkcd them, w hcthcr they believed that there were any for-
cerers in their country ? 'I'hcy faid, no : and that they did not
care whether there were any or not. To all our queries they
anfvvered with an air of extreme indifference, and in a manner
that feemed to indicate that they were Tick of our infipid conver-
lation. We foon perceived that all our queftions made no other
imprelTion on their minds than to awaken jealoufy, and to put
them more and more on their guard ; and to convince them that
we were commiflaries fent amongft them by government. When
we enquired of them where their rein-deer were, and how many
they had, they replied, that they were very poor ; they had for-
merly twenty- four, but that only feven remained, all the reft
having been devoured by the wolf. If we had not been aware
that the preceding year had been a dreadful one to the Laplan-
ders, by rcafon of the immenfe quantities of wolves that poured
Vol. ir. I in
58 TRAVELS
in amongfl them and devoured their ftock, we lliould have been
induced to fuppofe that the account they gave of the prefent
fmall number of their rein-deer, was intended to convince us of
their poverty, and how unable they were to bear any contribu-
tion that might be demanded. But intelhgence of their difafters
in that terrible year had reached as far as Uleaborg ; and it was
even urged by our good friends there as a reafon why we fliould
give up all thoughts of our projedled journey. They faid, that as
more than a third of the rein-deer had been deflroyed by the
wolves, it would not be an eafy matter for the Laplanders to fur-
nifli a fufficient number of thefe animals for conveying us on, in
our long and hazardous expedition.
It is a fingular phenomenon, that the number of wolves in
Lapland has increafed very fenfibly every year fmce the com-
mencement of the laft war in Finland. The Laplanders believe
that this war chafed away the wolves from Finland, and forced
them to take refuge in the north ; juft in the fame manner, per-
iiaps, as the prefent inhabitants of Finland, in their progrefs weft-
ward from Afia, drove the old Fins into the wildernefs, in which
they now fojourn. This reafon, however, feems not fo well found-
ed as to give any folld fatisfaftion. We know from experience
that the wolves are difpofed to follow the courfe of war, and to
feed on the vi(5lims of our broils and contefts, rather than to fliun
and fly away from them. I muft therefore refer the increafe of
wolves in Lapland to fome unknown caufe, which 1 do not pre-
tend to penetrate.
We
THROUGH LAPLAND. 59
We now prepared for our journey to Kautokieno, under the
confohitory reHecllon that vvc fliould henceforth efcape the obfta-
clcs and fatigues we had hitherto met with from the adverfe cur-
rents of the rivers. This was the firfi time we had feen any river,
whofe waters were in their progrefs to lofe themfelves in the im-
menfe extent of the Frozen Ocean. If we had been oppofed by
fuch cataracts as thofe of Muonio, it would, doubtlefs, have been
impoffible for us to have proceeded any farther. But happily the
dangers to be encountered in the cataradls of the river of Pepojo-
vaivi, were not unproportioned to the want of vigour and fkill ot
the Laplanders, wlio were to be our attendants. Thofe feeble,
aukward, and helplefs beings, w^ere embarraffcd and at a ftand on
the leaft difficulty ; and every ftone to them feemed a mountain.
The llate of their boats was deplorable ; their oars were difpro-
portioned to one another, and without any regular form. They
were no other than Iticks of wood cut and hacked into fomethin<r
like an oar, in the niofi: negligent manner. Lazinefs and ftupi-
dity were prominent in all the Laplanders did, in all that apper-
tained to them. The only things that they were able actively to
perform, were to keep up an evcrlafting chatter, to fmoke their
pipes, to chew tobacco, and to drink brandy.
I 2 CHAPTER
6o TRAVELS
CHAPTER VII.
Pajfage on the River Pepojovahi — Manner of T'tjhhig tifed hy the
Laplanders — The River Pepojovaivi forming fever al Lakes during
its Courfe, and emptying itfef into the River AJten, near Kanto-
keino — Immenfe Quantity of F'fJi in thofe Lakes — Sport of Shooting
on the River — Different Species of Birds — Some farther CJiarac-
teriflics of the -wandering 'Laplanders — Arrival at Kautokeino —
Schoolmafier of this Place — LapJandiJli Singing — The Miific (f
this Countty.
"TXTHEN we embarked on the Pepojovaivi, we left the young
•woman, who was the daughter of one of our Laplanders,
on the banks of the river. We now proceeded with our fix men,
which were in truth more than we had occafion for ; but they
were defirous individually to get fome money with very little
trouble. We had two boats, with three Laplanders in each, who
had diflributed their offices in the following manner : one of them
rowed, another managed the helm, and a third fcooped out the
water that entered into the boat inceflantly. Inftead of going
ftraight down the river, they made a turn without faying a word
to us, in order to look at fome nets which they had fpread a day
or two before. We perceived this deviation, when, inftead of
follovvina
THROUGH LAPLAND. 6i
following the courfc of the Pcpojovaivi, they made up againft the
current of a fmall and fmooth river, which falls into the former.
They would give no farther account of this change in their move-
ment, than by faying that they were doing what was right, and
that they would condu<ft us in good time to Kautokeino accord-
ing to our defire. As we had not any tolerable maps of this part
of Lapland, and were totally unacquainted with the rivers or
lakes that we might have to pafs, we could not make any vigo-
rous oppofition to what our guides intended, and therefore judged
it expedieiit to take no notice of what they did forfome time, bat
wait and fee the rcfult of this new circumftance. It was not long
before we difcovered that their objecfl was to draw the nets and
carry off all the fifla they could find. Thefc nets were torn in fo
many places, that the fiflies might make their efcape with little
difficulty ; but the quantity of them was fo great, that fome were
found in every part of the net that was entire. The manner of
fiflung in Lapland is this : they have their nets fprcad, and always
Handing in the water; they repair to them and draw them in
A\henever they want fifli, which they dry in the air, and by the
heat of the fun. Nature has done every thing for thofe people ;
and in proportion to her profufe bounty is their abominable indo-
lence. The fifliermen of the ifle of Kintafari were very different
in their habits and difpofitions from thofe of Pcpojovaivi. All
their apparatus for fiflilng was in the moll excellent order : their
boats were found, their nets whole and faultlefs, and they drew
them when they caft them. But the Kintafari fifhcrs were not
erratic
€2 TRAVELS
erratic but fixed Laplanders, or rather a Finnifli colony eilabllfhcd
in Lapland. Thefe inhabitants of Kintafari preferve all the ori-
ginal boldnefs of charadler, force and adivity, by which the Fins
are diflinguifhed ; whereas the unfettled and wandering Lap-
landers are remarkable for floth and dirt.
Having returned to the river Pepojovaivi, we fell down by that
ilream to Kautokeino, where it empties itfelf into the river Alten,
after a courfe of forty Englifh miles from the place where we fet
out. The river Pepojovaivi is every where intercepted by lakes,
or, more properly fpeaking, it often fpreads and makes lake?,
which, being fringed with birch and fir-trees, offered the mofl
pleafing views, and rendered our voyage very interefting and agree-
able. We were aftonlflicd at the incredible quantity of fiflics
with which thofe lakes abound, and which leap every inftant to
catch infefts above the furface of the water. Our Laplanders
themfelves were furprifed at their abundance, and agreed, on their
return, to come there and let down their torn and ragged nets.
The catarads of the river Pepojovaivi were not at all confiderable,
nor were they in the leaft dangerous. Our good Finlanders, and
above all our pilot Simon of Kollare, would not have thought it
worth while to mention fuch a voyage : but it was a very arduous
undertaking for our Laplanders, who found themfelves under em-
barrafTments at every turn. Being inured to the navigation of ca-
taracts, we could encounter their difficulties and dangers without
emotion, and were of courfe more fitted to extricate our company
out of any untoward circumflance than the Laplanders, who,
without
THROUGH LAPLAND. 6^
•without our afliftancc, would probably on many occafions have
been diflieartencd. They had not the leaft knowledge of the
depth of a current from the appearance of the furfacc, and of two
courfes prefented to their option, they were always fure to chufe
the word and the fliallowcft. Through their awkwardnefs and
ftupldity, we were obliged to pafs a confiderable part of our jour-
ney along the river on foot. I have not a doubt but our Simon,
through the cataracts of Muonio, would have difcovered with a
glance of his penetrating eye, fome place where the boats might
have pafled in fafety. Two of our Laplanders came out of
their refpeftive boats, and in each one remained. One of thofe
who landed drew the boat along by means of a rope made of the
bark of the birch-tree ; the other, with a rope made of the fame
materials, checked and moderated its motion when the current
was too rapid. If at any time the Laplanders who were on foot
on the banks of the river, chanced to fpy any plant of the ange-
lica, they would immediately run to gather it ; and having their
hands full of this herb, they would rather lofe hold of the ropes
and let the boats ftrike on rocks, than quit the delicious vegetable.
Sometimes when we were in the boat, they would chatter among
themfelves at fuch a rate, or be immerfed fo profoundly in the
pleafures of the pipe, that they took no manner of notice of ap-
proaching dangers; to which, of courfe, we were obliged to be
ourfelves attentive : and even when we did give them warning,
they would rather let the boats drive agalnft any obftacle, than in-
terrupt or difcompofe the bufmefs of eating angelica, or fmoking
tobacco.
64 TRAVELS
tobacco. It happened once that having taken a falfc diiccfllon, or
courfe, on a part of the river where it was rough and fliallow, they
were fo entangled among large ftones, as not to be able to move.
On this the Laplander who plied the oars rofe up from the bench
on which he fat, and by the ferious and decided air he put on, we
judged that his intention could be no lefs than to make fomc pow-
erful effort for our extrication from the prefent embarraffment :
He began, however, immediately to loofen a part of his drefs, and
was fb unpolite as to give way to a very preffing ■v\ant of nature
in our prefence. I will not tire my readers at prefent with any
farther details on the manners and habits of thofe people. What
has been already mentioned may fuffice to give a tolerably juft
idea of their chara<5ler and deportment. We were every inflant
on the point of lofing all patience w 1th them. But for want of
geographical information, and from the need we had of them, we
were, in a great meafurc, under their power, and therefore obliged
to put up with all their ftupidity, lazinefs, and bcaftllnefs.
Before we come to Kautokeino, I cannot forbear giving fome
account of the pleafant amufement of the chafe, which we enjoyed
on this river. Our Laplanders had taken a dog with them, and
as the animal was not admitted into one of the boats, he was
obhged to follow us as well as he could. This poor creature, by
his adions, and the means he ufed for keeping up with us, fliewcd
a great deal more adlivity, fenfe and contrivance than the human
beings of this country. When two ways lay before him, he never
failed to make choice of the befl : he had lakes to crofs, Iflands to
traverfe,
THROUGH LAPLAND. - 6$
traverfe, and tracks to chufe, and during the whole of the route
was under a conftant neceffity of obfcrving, comparing, and de-
ciding ; three operations of the mind with which the Laplanders
were but little acquainted. In the courfe of his running along the
banks of the river, through flirubs and brufliwood, he ftarted fome
game, which, in thofe parts, during the fummcr fcafon, is very
plentiful. We fhot fome ducks of a fpecies peculiar to thofe re-
gions, the anas nigra of Linnzeus, fome geefe {anas alb'ifranus, Lin.)
and a great number of groufe, which are here very common, and
which, rlfing all of a fudden very near the boats, prefent an excel-
lent mark to the fportfman.
The river of Pepojovaivi does nOt pals clofe to the village of
Kautokeino, but at the diftance of about a mile. That mile we
were obliged to walk on foot, and to have our luggage carried by
land. In walking over this fpace, I fell in with fome birds, parti-
cularly the curlew (fcohpax arquaia,, Lin.) which, to my aftcnlfh-
ment, I found in this country very fearlefs and familiar, although
in other parts, and even at Uleaborg, it is not to be approached
without the greatefl difficulty. I killed two of thefe birds with-
out turning afide from my path : I brought down alfb fome
plover.
When we arrived at Kautokeino, which was about an hour after
midnight, we were furprifed to find the whole village in a flate of
alarm. All the women were at the doors of their houfes in their
fliifts, and the men in the flreets or rather lanes. Their terror
was occafioned by the reports of our fowling pieces ; and it was
Vol. II. K not
66 ' TRAVELS
not without much trouble that our interpreter fucceeded in quiet-
ing their fears.
Among the Laplanders there was one whom they honoured
with the title of fchool-mafter. This appellation gave mc a high
idea of Kautokeino ; and I expeded to meet with another parfon^
like the one of Muonionifca, w ho fliould come to tafle our brandy^
and fpeak a little Latin, mixed with the Lapponic : but the mi-
nifter of Kautokeino happened at this time to be abfent. He had
gone, I underftood, into Norway, to tarry fome time with his re-
lations. The miniflers, or miffionaries, do not ufually remain in
Lapland during the fummer months. We took poffeffion of the
prieft's houfe, or rather chamber, for it confifted only of one apart-
ment. Being thus lodged, and fomewhat recoyered from our fa-
tigues, we were in a condition better qualified to become ac-
quainted with the village of Kautokeino, where we recognifcd
ourfelves as fubjeft to the laws of Denmark.
The firft thing we did was to pay our Lapland attendants. But
before we gave them their difmiffion, we were determined to
make an experiment of their talents in another fpecies of know-
ledge than any in which we had yet tried them. We defired to
hear them fmg, being anxious to have a fpecimen of their fkill in
muiic. I attempted feveral times, both by the power of money
and of brandy, to m.ake the paftoral Laplander utter his notes,
that I might form to myfelf, if poffible, fome idea of their mufic :
but the utmofl I could accomplifli w as to extort from them fome
hideous cries, during the continuance of which I was fometimes
obliged
THROUGH L.ITLAND. ^7
obliged to (lop my ears with my fingers. It is fcarcely crcdihlc,
though it is perfe<Sly true, that the mountain and wandering Lap-
landers have not the leaft idea of any thing conncded with har-
mony, and that they arc abfolutcly incapable of an enjoyment
which nature has not entirely forbidden to any other tribe or na-
tion, as far as I have been informed. Artificial mufic appears to
be wholly baniftied from thofe forlorn and folitary diftrids The
only mufical accents to be heard in Lapland are thofe which na-
ture has indifcriminately beflowed on all other countries, without
any regard to man, whofe pride induces him to believe that every
thing in the world is made for him alone. The only melody to be
heard in Lapland is that with which the birds make the woods re-
echo ; that of the rivulets ruftling over their pebbly beds ; that of
the winds refounding amidft the branches of trees and the deep
gloom of forefts ; and laftly, that of the majeftic fall of rivers over
rugged rocks, where the waters break with a crafliing noife, and
fend up their foam to the clouds. But that I may not leave my
reader altogether without an idea of Laplandifti finging, fuch as it
is, or rather of the vociferation of the wandering Laplanders, I
{ball prefent them u ith two fpecimens, which I find preferved in
n:y portfolio, among the various notifications of my journey. I
put them on paper, w hile thofe poor creatures w ere ftraining their
throats, and the mufic is to be fcen in the Appendix. They were
taken down w ithout any regard to time or meafure, becaufe they
had none ; nor are they fo long by a third part as the original
fungs, becaufe there was nothing but a continued repetition of
K 2 the
68 - TRAVELS
the fame notes. The Laplanders, after exhauftlng their breath,
perfevered in uttering the fame cry in a kind of fainting or fading
voice, as long as there was a particle of air in their lungs. Their
mufic, without meaning and without meafure, time or rythmus,
was terminated only by the total vvafte of breath ; and the length
of the fong depended entirely on the largenefs of the ftomach,
and the flrength of the lungs. With all my knowledge of the
mufical art, I was quite reduced to a nonplus amidfl thofe mufi-
cians of Lapland ; and I envied more than ever the fltill of the
Abbe Renauld ; an advantage which would have flood me in
great flead in the clrcumflances in which I was then placed.*
While the Laplanders were uttering cries in the manner juft
defcribed, they articulated certain words, which induced me to
afk our interpreter their meaning, and whether they were any
verfes or fragments of poetry. But I foon learnt that their ge-
nius for poetry did not tranfcend their turn for mufic. The
words they pronounced in their vociferation were only repetitions
of the fame expreflions over and over again. For example, " A
" good journey, my good gentlemen — gentlemen — gentlemen —
" gentlemen — a good journey — journey — journey — my good gen-
" tlemen — gentlemen — a good journey — journey — journey — jour-
" ney," &c. and fo on as long as they were able to fetch any
breath : when this was exhaufled, the fong was ended.
* The Abbe, in a note under the article Stvait, in that part of BufFon's work
which treats of birds, affures us very gravely, que les cris dcs cypies eft Joumis (i mi
r'uhme conjiant et regie a la mefure a deux terns. CEuvres de Buffon, vol. xxiv.
page 25. Edition de Paris, 1183.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND. 69
CHAPTER VIII.
Sitiiatton of Kautokehio — Boundary hetween the Svoedijli and Dani/k
Territories — An Injlance of jiiji Reafonhig on a political Topic —
Baron Hermelin s Maps of Sweden^ Ftnla7id, and Lapland — Diffi-
culty of obtaining good Maps of thofe Countries : thofe which exifl
are far from heing accurate — Diverfty of Names givetu to the fame
Places, and confii/ion occafioned by this Circunflance- — Anecdotes of
the School-mafler of Kautokeino — Dfiricf or Barifh of Kautokeino
— Population and Inhabitants — Wandering Laplanders, and thofe
that hcnje fixed Habitations — Their Mode of Life — Chafe of the
wild Rein- deer — An7tual Fair at Kautokeino, and Traffic carried
on — Cattle and Sheep — Low Eftimation in which the latter are
held — Departure from Kautokeino — State of the Weather and the
Thermometer — Journey purfued in Boats — The River Alt en :
beaut fid Scenery — Mufquetoes.
'TWILL our arrival, the village of Kautokeino was confidered as
wholly infulated in the fummcr fcafon, and inacceffible to
travellers. The furrounding diftri6l is defcribed in the Danifh
book of geography as a country confifling of mountains, feparated
from each other by dangerous and impaifable moraffes. It was
this
70 TRAVELS
this circumftance tliat occafioned the alarm at the report of our
guns. The Inhabitants could not conceive from what caufe, or
from what quarter the thundering noife proceeded, as it could not
occur to them that the}? might receive a vifit from any curious
ftrangers.
The village of Kautokeino is inhabited by four families and a
pried, and it has a church. By the line of frontier agreed upon
in 1/51, between Sweden and Denmark, Kautokeino was in-
cluded within the dominions of the latter. On looking at the
map one is furprifed to find here the boundary bet\\ een thefe two
kingdoms ; inflcad of its following the ridge of mountains, which
forms a natural feparation to the fouth and the north in that cor-
ner of Europe. By that arrangement the territory of Denmark
turns toward the fouth, and takes in an angle of Lapland, which
ought naturally to belong to Sweden. Wc did not fail to make
enquiry into the caufe of this fmgular deviation from apparent rea-
fon and juftnefs, and we flattered ourfelves that we had traced it
to a fccret of ftate, being informed that it was the effeft of bri-
bery and corruption. The Swedifli commiflary, we were told,
had been induced to make a ceffion of the angle in queftion by
the power of Danifli gold ; and numerous extravagant anecdotes
were mentioned of this perfon, who w as reprefented as much ad-
dicted both to wine and to women ; that care was taken to throw
in the way of this man of plcafure the whole luxury of Lapland ;
and that he was overcome by the manifold temptations held out
to him, and agreed to the divifion as before Itated.
Romantic
THROUGH LAPLAND. 71
Romantic as this account may appear, \vc were not backward
to give it credit. My companion particularly, \\ ho was a S\\ cdifli
officer, aflented to it moft readily, like a good patriot, who dilco-
vered with indignation a fraud committed againll: the interefts of
his country. We made a thoufand political refledions on the dif-
ferent means and arts of corruption, and on the great value fet by
governments on trifling matters : we thought that poffibly the
two powers had left this fmall territory in an unfettled flate, in
order that they might not want a pretence, whenever they fliould
chufe to come to a rupture, li' I might have been permitted to
do juflice to our political talents and acute inveftigation, I fliould
have faid that we difplayed great knowledge as well as eloquence
on the prefent fubjed. But alas ! the fa6l was, that all we had
heard, and what had given rife to our /age obfervations, was a
mere fable. The true caufe of the eccentricity noticed in the
line of demarcation, was a thing perfectly natural, and in confor-
mity with the' treaty of 1751, between the courts of Stockholm
and Copenhagen, by which it was fettled that the boundary fliould
be fixed by the fources of rivers ; that is to fay, that all that tra6l
of country of which the rivers run into the Frozen Ocean, fliould
belong to Denmark : and on the other hand, all that fliould be
held as Swedifli Lapland, of which the rivers fall into the gulf of
Bothnia. More than a year after my journey to Lapland, I be-
came acquainted at Drontheim, the capital of the northern parts
of Norw ay, w ith the Danifli commiflary who had been employed
in this bufmcfs, and from him I learned the true principle or bafis
72 TRAVELS
on which the divifion of the territory was founded. He laughed
very heartily at the fabulous account whi.ch I recited to him of
that matter.
I have already obferved, that we no longer derived any benefit
from maps, but were left wholly to our own refources. The bell:
maps of Sweden are thofe publifhed by Baron Hermelin : and
when it is confidered that thele have been executed at the ex-
pence, and by the capacity and induftry of an individual, it is im-
pofTible to withhold the tribute of praife due to the diflinguiflied
zeal of his patriotifm. Baron Hermelin employs the greateft part
of his yearly income, which is very confiderable, in the promo-
tion of the geography, the natural hiftory, and a knowledge of the
political ftate of Sweden. He fends young men of genius to dif-
ferent parts of the kingdom to take geographical furveys, to try
experiments, make obfervations in mineralogy, and to colledl vari-
ous llatiftical accounts. From their Iketches of particular diflrids
he forms his maps of the different divifions of Sweden. It is how-
ever to be obferved, that thefe geographical delineations, though
wonderfully exa6l for the work of an individual, derive their dif-
tindlion and merit only from a companion with others lefs cor-
rc6l. In i<\&., they may be regarded as the only maps of Sweden
that have yet been publidied ; and what is more, they have been
completed folcly at that gentleman's own expence, and without
any affiflance from government. Sweden, Finland, and Lapland,
have not yet been furveycd with that corrc(ftnefs which prevails in
the geographical reprcfentations of France, of Britain, and other
countries ;
THROUGH L.VPLAND. 73
countries ; every diftriifl and corner of vvliich have been meafurcd,
and drawn with the greateft accuracy and precilioii. Baron Ilcr-
melin's maps arc not compofcd with all the rigour of trigonome-
try ; they are formed from views by the eye, in the fame manner
as the llcetches of ordinary furveyors or draughtfmen, w ho afcend
to the top of a particular mountain, and thence obtain a profpe<5l
of the circumjacent country from which they make their draw-
ings. Befides this, the natives are confulted, who furnifh accounts
of different matters within their knowledge, and particularly of
the names of hills, rivers, towns, and other objects. Lapland, if
we comprehend under it all thofe parts fo named in the wide ex-
tent belonging to Sweden, Denmark, and Ruffia, is a country
of fuch immenfe fpace, that it would be too great an enterprize
to attempt making an accurate meafurement of even the frontiers
of its different diftrids. Moreover, the fummer in that climate
is fo fliort, the fatigue of penetrating through its moraflTes and
furmounting other obflacles fo great, and the operations of ajuft
trigonometrical furvey would require fuch a length of time and
number of perfons, that there is but little hope of its being foon,
or ever accomplifhed. As to the winter feafon, the mofi: proper
for travelling in thofc northern and uncultivated countries, it in-
^ olves the difadvantage of obfcurity and darknefs ; and the fnow
CA ery where covering the furface of the earth, rivers, and lakes,
to the depth of feveral yards, and prefenting in all places an uni-
formity of appearance, makes it impoffible for the geographer to
difcriminate land from water.
Vol. II. L With
74 TRAVELS
With regard to the names of places hi Lapkind, thefe will ne-
ver be fixed while Laplanders remain in the unfettled flate of a
palloral and wandering people. Thofe that have permanent ha-
bitations are wholly unacquainted with the names of mountains,
rivers, brooks, and lakes at any great difi:ance, to which there is
httle if any refort. The Laplanders who know the names of thefe
objec^ts, are of the paftoral or erratic tribes. But here another dif-
ficulty occurs. Various families of thefe Laplanders aflbciate to-
gether, and thus wander from place to place : and as the inter-
courfe of thefe hordes with one another is but trifling, and of a
very tranfient nature, the language of each is marked by fuch
fliadcs of variety, that it can fcarcely be faid w 1th propriety that
there is one Lapland tongue, common to all. Hence it happens
that the fame places have very diflimilar denominations, and that
a map of any dillrid: under the guidance of one Lapland ihepherd,
■would not be recognized and underftood by a traveller who had
drawn a plan of the fame tradl, under the condu<5l and informa-
tion of another. An inftance of this diverfity of names, and the
inconvenience that naturally thence arifes, I experienced myfelf in
my progrefs from Pallojervi to Kautokeino. On my arrival at
this laft village, I was influenced to look over my names of places,
and the little map I had drawn ; all which I fliewed to an inha-
bitant of Kautokeino. I found that the Laplander who attended
us, and from whofe account I had projected my geographical
fketch, had called the places by names totally difl^erent from thofe
by which the fame objcds were known to the people of Kauto-
keino.
THROUGH Lr\PLAND. 75
Among the Laplanders of Kautokcino was one, as I have men-
tioned, who bore the fpeclous title of fchool- mailer. This appel-
lation ftruck me very much ; for I had conceived that I was in a
place far removed from any fchool, or any inftitution tor the pur-
pofe of inftru6tion. The name of fchoul-mafter was as great a
fubjedt of pride to this Laplander, as a red or blue ribband may be
to any one in the refined parts of Europe. He was, doubtlefs, as
much gratified by the appellation of fchool-maffcer, as any one in
our ftate of fociety may be by his rank of iiobllity, or other emi-
nent diftinftion. This fchool-mafler, both in his perfonal appear-
ance and manners, was as complete a Laplander as his neighbours
around him, except that from fome defective conformation of na-
ture, there was fomething very fingular and ludicrous in his mode
of walking, his feet being always turned out into what is called
by dancing- mafters the firft pofition.
Having pafled the frontiers of Lapland,* and continued fome
time in Norway, he had learned the Danifli, or rather the Nor-
wegian language : and his knowledge of this opened an employ-
ment to him the moft fingular and droll in its nature of any that
ever fell under my obfervation in any country. The priell, or
niinifber, being wholly unacquainted with the Lapponian tongue,
cannot convey his fentiments to his audience, w ho know not any
other. To remedy this inconvenience, the fchool-mafter takes his
» Norwegian Lapland is named by the Danes and Norwegians Finmark. I (hall
ftill, however, call it Lapland, in order not to confound the inhabitants of this
country with thofe of Finland ; for both affume the appellation of Finlanders.
L 2 llation
y6 TRAVELS
ftation beneath the pulpit, and when the mlnifter has pronounced
one fcntence of his fermon he ftops, and the fchool-mafter repeats
it to the congregation, in the language of Lapland. The effe(5l
which the eloquence of the preacher, thus interrupted and muti-
lated, muft have on his audience, it is not difficult to conceive, I
confefs I would have given, I know not how much, to have heard
this Laplander, and known what kind of tranflation he made of the
Danifli miffionary's fermons. As for the minifler, who underflood
not a word of what the fchool-mafler faid in his name to the people,
he prefumed it was all right, and went on without helitation.
As it is the interefl of Denmark to extend its language over
thofe countries as much as pofTible, a fchool-mafter was appointed
at Kautokeino for teaching Danifli to his neighbours, and as many
as he could draw together to receive his inftrudlions. It would
appear that this fchool-mafter had not greatly improved his man-
ners and addrefs, from his travels into Norway, if we were to judge
from his matrimonial connexion. His wife was only three feet
and a half high, and indifputably the uglieft creature beyond the
polar circle. But on the other hand it fliould feem, that he had
acquired from his polifhed neighbours of Norway the art of in-
fmuation, and fbme knowledge in the fcience of gallantry. He
was able to gain the acquaintance and attachment of a young
girl in the parifli, who in a fliort time thereafter found herfelf in
a condition that difcovered how much fhe had profited by the in-
ftrudlions of the fchool-mafter ; a circumftance which placed this
public functionary in an aukward fituation with regard both to
the
THROUGH LAPLAND. 77
the relations ofthedamfcl, and his own Httlc wife. Thofc inci-
dents, however, arc not regarded in the fainc fcrious hght beyond,
as on this fide the polar circle. The matter \\as very amicably
fettled : the child died foon after it was born, and the fchool-
mafter's wife felt more pride in her hufband's fuccefsful courtfliip,
than mortification at his Infidelity.
Before we leave Kautokelno, it may not be amifs to offer, for
the amufement of my readers, a few geographical and ftatiftical
obfervations on this part of the country. In the w hole of the dif-
trldl or parifli of Kautokelno, which is twenty-five Norwegiaa
miles in length, and twelve in breadth,* there are but two places
occupied by fettled Laplanders, which amount together to no
more than twelve families. The refl are all of the fhepherd, or
vagrant kind, who cannot be accurately numbered, becaufe they
are conftantly in motion, and not attached to any particular fpot.
In 175O they reckoned ninety dlftindl families ; but it is poflible
that fome of thefe families may alfo have been counted among
thofe of other diftrldls. Thefe wandering Laplanders inhabit
during winter the mountainous trads, and move from place to
place with their tents, and herds of rein-deer ; but in fummer
they draw towards the coaft for the benefit of fifliing. At Kauto-
kelno there are fome very fine fields of meadow and arable land ;
the latter of which yield as much oats and barley as fupplles the
inhabitants for fix months. Horfes they have none : all journeys
are performed on foot or in boats in fummer, and during winter,
* A Norwegian mile is about eight Englifli miles.
m
78 TRAVELS
in Hedges drawn by rein-deer. What hay they poffefs ferves as
provender for their cows ; and the corn they obtain is converted
into flour for their own ufe, which, through long habit, is be-
come fo neccflary an article of their fubfiftence, that they are
miferable if they have it not all the year round. From fifliing and
the chafe they derive as much refource as they poffibly can. A
people enured to a roving and hazardous kind ot life, prefer to
the laborious purfuits of agriculture, the chances of fifliing and
the chafe. It would not be difficult for the few families of Kauto-
keino to raife grain fufficient for their wants : but they chufe
rather to fifli, and hunt wild rein-deer, than to undergo the weari-
fome toils of hufbandry. They exchange for grain what fifti they
can fpare, or barter for it the fkins of bears or other animals
which they may happen to kill. It is, however, by no means to
. be wondered at, that this fliould be fo, when we conflder that fifla
are fo abundant in the rivers as to make the catching of them not
a bufinefs of doubtful fpeculation, but of the utmoil certainty ;
and alfo, that if any one kill a bear, he gains more by the fkin
than he would by the cultivation of half an acre of land, over
and above the luxury of feafi:ing upon the flefli of this animal,
which is efteemed very delicious.
The method of hunting the bear is the fame here as in Finland,
but that of hunting the rein- deer is attended with exceflivc fatigue,
and to be performed only by a Laplander. The wild rein-deer,
which fcorn to live in a herd, but remain in a folitary ftate among
the woods and mountains, poflcfs a nicety and acutenefs of pre-
caution
THROUGH LAPLAND. 79-
caution that nothing can equal. When a Laplander perceives one
of thofe animals at the dlflance of about half an Enjilifn mile, he
takes a circuit to the windward ; coming nearer and nearer to it,
creeping on his hands and feet, until he comes within gun-fliot.
I have been affured by a Laplander, that he has been obliged to
creep in this manner for five miles, through flirubs and mois, in
order to reach the moft convenient fpot tor taking aim at his
prey.
In the fmall village of Kautokeino, there is in the month of
February an annual fair, which is frequented by the neighbouring
Laplanders and the merchants from Tornea, who come thither
for the purpofe of purchafing rein-deer fkins, furs, and other arti-
cles. In thofe fairs the medium of trade is barter. The Laplan-
ders give the fkins of rein-deer, foxes, wolves, and bears, witli
gloves and flioes, or rather fliort boots, in exchange for coarfe flan-
nels, but above all for brandy, tobacco, meal, and fait.
They have a few cows and fheep, which in fome degree fupply
them with milk and wool. For fodder to their cows, when they
have not hay enough, they gather the mofs that the rein- deer
feeds upon, and which the cows, for want of better nourifliment
are glad to live upon. On the adjacent mountains there is a kind
of mofs which the fheep will cat, and even feem to like. As flieep
do not form any article of barter or commerce, they are to be
purchafed at a very low price. We bought fome for our kitchen,
at the rate of eighteen pence Englifli a-piece.
The people in thofe parts are neither ignorant of the ufe of
money.
8o TRAVELS
money, nor exempt from a pafTion lor being pofleflcd of it. Their
fair feems to have given them an idea of taking advantage of cir-
cumftances whenever they may occur. Of this we had a proof
when we began to make preparations for purfuing our journey ;
they demanded nearly half a-crown a day for each man that was
to attend us, which was an enormous fum for that country, and
bore peculiarly hard upon us, fnice we had occafion for five, and
afterwards for fcven men, befides the interpreter and our own Ser-
vant. Our interpreter attempted to demonfhrate, that what they
allied w as extravagant and unrealbnable ; but they would not be
moved by his arguments, but replied, that the prefent was the
feafon for fifliing, by which they fliould gain more than in our
fervice ; w hich perhaps might be true. They feemed alfo to be
aware that, as travellers are not frequent in their country, if any-
one journeyed there in a feafon when there was neither a fair, nor
any other particular bufmefs to attend, he muft either have plenty
of money himfclf, or be commilTioned by government to examine
and report the ftate of the country, and confequently be paid by
the king. Such I conceive was their reafoning, and there was
no remedy againft it ; we had no other people but thefe that we
could apply to, and thence we were compelled to fubmit to their
terms. 1 confoled myfelf with the confideration, that I would
rather pay double their demand than return to Uleaborg, and give
up the intended journey. We now gave orders for our boats to be
got ready, and all our baggage to be ftow^ed into them. We fet
out from Kautokeino on the ninth of July, in the fairell weather
imaginable.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 8i
imaginable, and under a temperature of climate approachins; to
that of Italy. The thermometer of Celfius indicated the 25th de-
gree of heat at mid-day in the fhade ; expofed to the fun it role
to forty ; on the water it fubfided to nineteen. The women of
the village accompanied their hufbands to the fide of the river, and
bade us farewell in the mod afFedlionate manner. The voyage we
were about to undertake was long and painful, and which none of
the people had ever performed in fummer. Our departure deprived
the village of two-thirds of its population, and rendered for a time
five-eighths of the married women widows. Wc ^^■ere follow-
ed by their looks till the winding of the river intercepted their
view ; nor was the fchool-mafter's wife, fo little and lb ugly, the
leaft conflant or ardent in demonftrations of fenfibility and re-
gret at parting with fuch dear vlHtors and friends. Our boats
•were juft of a fize fufHcient to contain the whole of our company,
with our luggage and tent. We were in all nine, diftributed in
two boats, which could not have carried one perfon more without
the danger of being overfet, or of fmking to the bottom of the
water.
The river of Alten we found one of the moft beautiful we had
yet viewed in the courfe of our travels. It is at its commence-
ment a continued fucceffion of lakes of different fize and fliapes,
and Interfperfed with Iflets that are covered with the birch-tree.
Thefe prefented a fcenery of landfcape, which far from having a
wild and harfh appearance, was fijch as might befeem a gentler
climate. Thofe lakes infpired us with an inclination for bathing :
Vol. II. M • their
82 TRAVELS
their waters^ were clear as cryflal, and their edges formed of the
foftefl fand, which floped by degrees into a greater and greater
depth. We did not fail to avail ourfelves of the opportunity of
enjoying fb agreeable and falutary a recreation, whenever we could
do fo with impunity ; that is, when we had a moment of refpite
from the aggreffions of the mufquetoes, which almofl inceffantly
tormented us. The fame attradlions of the feafon that invited us
to bathe, animated thofc infc6ls to follow us wherever we went, and
gave vigour to their perfecution. We were not, however, wholly
deftitute of all refources of comfort. In a country where we had
little beyond the mere neceflaries of life, we confidered every foun-
tain that we difcovered, and every plant of angelica we met with^
as a fource of luxury.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND. 83
CHAPTER IX.
Some refrejli'ing Springs of Water — Farther Account of the R't-ver
Alten — Cataracts — Rapidity of the River in fame Places, and
quick Progrefs of the Boats — Plenty of Fi/lt in the River A/ten —
The Church of Mafi — Mnfquetoes — Afmall River called Keinof-
joki — A Chain of Mountains to he croffed — Dull and melancholy
Appearance of the Country — Snow on the Mountains in the Midji
of Summer — Arrive at a folitary CaVni in a Wood — War xvith
the Mufquetoes — Change of Scenery in defending from the Moun-
tains— Regain the River Alten, and meet with a Salmon Fi/lier —
Pafs another River, and purfuc our Journey — hofe our Way, and
at lafl reach Alten Gaard.
1 XURING the whole ot this journey, although we were for the
-*'^ moll; part on water, we felt a conftant thirft : this was but
ill quenched by brandy, and it was augmented by our mode of
living on dried meat and bifcuit. The w atcr of the lakes, greatly
warmed by the continual rays of the fun, was far from being agree-
able ; but that of the fprings, which we now and then found in
the little narrow vallies, fliaded by trees from the exceffive heat,
was fo frefli and pleafant, that we could fcarcely refrain from taking
large draughts of it at the moment we found it Some of thofe
M 2 fprings
84 ^ TRxWELS
fprings were at four or five degrees of Celfius, wh'icii was a great
difference in comparlfoii of the lakes, which were at nineteen^
and of the atmofphere, which was at twenty-five. It was a
more delicious refrelliment to us, than all the iced creams in the
great cities of the fbuth of Europe to the moft confirmed epicure.
The river of Alten, after fpreading into feveral lakes, and again
contrafting itfelf within its banks, which are here and there fringed
with trees, and confift fometimes of rocks and fometimes of bare
fand, precipitates itfelf all of a fudden from between two rocks
about forty feet in perpendicular height. There it forms a mag-
nificent catarad: ; and the agitated water fends vip a cloud of va-
pour to the fkics, through which is feen a beautiful and majefi:ic
rainbow. This cataradl, of courfe, interrupted our navigation,
and our boats were drawn over the land for nearly the fpace of
an Englifli mile, to a place where the river again became pafiTablc.
On the borders of this cafcade, the Laplanders, who accom-
panied us from Kautokeino, had a magazine of fifh drying in the
air. After exploring the beauties of the waterfall, we lighted up
a fire in this place, and had fome of thofe fifhes drefled ; a part
boiled, and fome broiled. The Lapland fafliion of broiling, is by
fixing a fifti on a ftick, and then holding it to the fire.
After our repaft we purfued our voyage ; and as we proceeded,
had a fine view, and took a drawing of a very beautiful cataract
made by the falls of a tributary ftream belonging to the Alten,
which defcends on the right bank of that river over a number of
Ihelving rocks, difpofed like Heps of flairs, as if they were the
work
THROUGH LAPLAND. 85
work of art. It was covered with a canopy of trees, which inter-
cepted the rays of the fun. Wc continued to defcendby a branch
of the river Alten, which flowed with fuch rapidity, that if credit
may be given to our Lapland boatmen, we performed almoft a
Norwegian mile (or eight Englifli) in Httle more than a quarter
of an hour. When the current began to be very ftrong, our
boatmen defired us to look at our watches, that we might be able
to afcertain how much time we fliould take in getting on a mile.
We did fo ; and when we reached the end of what they com-
puted to be a Norwegian mile, we found that the time taken up
was twenty minutes. Our boatmen now wanted fome repofe»
and we fet up our tent near the fmall church of Mafi, on the
right bank of the Alten. We lighted feveral fires, and one as
ufual in the midft of our tent, to defend us from the mufquetoes,
our eternal tormentors. Our Laplanders, before laying them-
felves down to take their reft, afked pcrmiffion to go and let
down the nets in the river, and draw them only once. They
obtained our leave to do fo, and our interpreter thought it an
amufement to go along with them. They returned in a quarter
of an hour with more than two hundred fiflies of different forts
and fizes, fome more than a foot in length. Part of them was
drefled for our fupper : the reft the Laplanders gutted, and hung
up on trees to dry, which they intended to take home with them
on their return.
Next morning, before we refumed our voyage, we paid a vifit
to the fmall church of Mafi, which is embofomed in the midfl: of
t.) trees.
S6 ' TRAVELS
trees and brufliwood, about three hundred paces from the banks of
the river. If hi the whole of our travels hi thofe northern regions
we had not fo much as feen one Laplander, or had landed near
this church from a balloon, we could not poffibly have formed any
other opinion than that we had come to a land of pigmies. I was
greatly flruck with the architedure and the dlmenfions of this
building: the whole was on fo dwarfifli a fcalo, fo little, fo low,
and fo narrow, that at firft fight I (hould have been tempted to
take it not for a real church, but for the model of one. To have
an adequate idea of its diminutive lize, imagine a door of little
more tlian three feet high, a roof no more than fix, and the whole
edifice, comprifmg a veftibule, the body of the chvirch, and a fa-
crifby, or vellry, not exceeding eight yards in length, by four in
breadth. It feemcd as if I, who was thought in thefe parts,
" In bignefs to furpafs earth's giant fons,"
might, when placed in a corner of the church, the fartheft from
the pulpit, have almoll touched the minifler's nofe with the point
of my boot, by ftretching out my leg without even rifing from
my feat. The native of Italy could not reftrain a fmlle at this
fpeclmen of Lapland architedlure.
When we had pafled about two Norwegian miles and a half
farther down the river, we met with two Laplanders of Kauto-
keino, who had travelled thus far for the purpofe of fifliing. We
had now arrived at the place where it became neceffary for us to
quit our boats, and to purfue our journey on foot over that great
0 chain
THROUGH LAPLAND. 87'
chain of mountains into which the river Alten infmuatcs itfelf,
and flowing, by many windings, through its whole extent, breaks
out and ruflies down in many places, and forms a number of ca-
taracts. As our baggage appeared too hca\y to our wary Lap-
landers of Kautokeino, they engaged the two fiflicrs alfo to ac-
company us, w hich lightened the burthen of each, by the divifion
of five parts into feven. They drew the boats on land, and made
them fafi: to fome trees. We then began to afcend the mountain
on the left bank of the Alten, very near to a brook, or rather fmall
river, called Kionos-joki, which defcends fVom the mountain Kulli-
tunduri. This brook forms at one place a very fmgular cafcade,
by opening a paflage for itfelf under the furface of the rocks, and
palTmg, where it begins to fall, under a natural bridge.
We continued to afcend, for the fpace of four Englifli miles,
through a thicket of dwarf birch (hctuJa nana) and birch-trees,
and over ground xniiformly covered with thick mofs, which ren-
dered our journey extremely fatiguing. The day was overcaft
with clouds, but ftill there was a fuffocating heat, which occa-
fioned a great dcprefllion and heavinefs of fpirits. This was the
moft favourable opportunity that could pofTibly be imagined f'or
the mufquetocs. The quantity of thofe terrible infeds lodged
amongll; the buflies and mofs was fo great, that at every ftep \sz
raifed fuch a cloud of them, as covered us all over from head to
foot. Imagine a number of putrid bacon hams expofed to the
rays of a fummer's fun, and all covered with flies: fuch was our
condition, and the difgufling appearance of our perfons. After wc
had
■88 ,. TRAVELS
had afcended four miles, the mountain began to affume a flat-
tifh and naked afped;, without a fingle tree. It was wholly co-
vered with the common mofs of the rein-deer, fave where this
extenfivc carpet was broken, and checquered with moraffes, ba-
fons of water, and lakes, altogether forming a landfcapc the
moll: drear}' and melancholy conceivable. There was nothing
to engage our attention, to amufe our fancy, or to confolc
and cheer our fpirits. A vaffc expanfc lay before us, which we
were to meafure with our feet, through morafles in which we
were not without danger of being fwallowed up. On the fum-
mit of this chain of mountains we traverfed a fpace of not lefs
than fifteen Englifli miles, fometimes wrapped in a cloud, and
fometimes marching over the fnow, though in the midft of fiam-
mer. The temperature of the air, in this elevation, had under-
gone a confiderable change. Our thermometer indicated a re-
markable difference of decrees from that of the furface of the river
of Alten. This climate was not very inviting to the mufquetoes.
If we had not been obliged to purfue our way through a number
of low flirubs, we fliould have been but little troubled by them :
but the fwarms that we raifed from the bufhes when we began to
climb, accompanied us faithfully during the w hole of our progrefs
through the mountains. Even w'hen our route lay through heights
covered with fnow, our eternal foes purfued us ftill. Unfortu-
nately it was a perfedl calm : not a breath of wind to drive aw ay
thofe pefliferous companions.
In the courfe of our journey through thofe lofty and dreary re-
gions.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 8$
gions, we ftarted a white hare, and fome birds of different forts:
but it was not without difficulty and trouble that we could fire a
fliot, on account of the infc6ls. The pleafure of (hooting any
thing was dearly purchafed by the pain to be endured in perform-
ing that operation. In order to charge, level our pieces, and take
aim, it was neccflary to pull off our gloves, and put afide the veils
that covered our faces : but when all this was done, or while doing,
our enemies, ever watchful for a favourable moment of attack,
allured by the fccnt of their prey, fell on the parts expofed with-
out mercy by millions.
We began to be exceedingly fatigued ; but as there was no
fuel at hand for making fires to drive away the mufquetoes,
which did not permit us either to take refrefhment or repofe, wc
puftied on in queft of fome trees, and made, by a roundabout
way, towards a cabin, which we were told by one of the oldeft of
our guides, had been eredcd in a plantation not far off by fome
travelling merchants, for the purpofe of refling and warming
themfelves in the winter feafon, while the Laplanders baited
their rein-deer. This cabin is a fquare room about eight or ten
feet in diameter, conftruded of wood, with a hole in the top for
letting out the fmoke of the fire in the centre. We did not all
go into the cabin at once ; but after the Laplanders had colledled
abundance of the withered branches of trees, one of them entered
alone and lighted the fire, having firfl ufed the precaution of flop-
ping up the hole in the roof in order to keep in the fmoke. When
the chamber was fo completely filled with fmoke as almofl to pre-
VoL. II. N vent
50 TRAVELS
vent refpiration, the reft of the company were permitted to ga
into it. The infeds, with which we were covered from head to
foot, were obliged to quit their prey and remain at the door, en-
raged that they durlt not advance to attack us in our retreat.
This little hole in which we were all huddled one among another,
quite full of fmoke, and with no other carpet or floor than the
bare earth, was more agreeable to us than any of the inns I had
ever vifited in France or England, In the middle of the room
there was a good fire, and our tent placed on leaves of the birch-
tree ferved us for a bed. We now fet about dreffing the game w'3
had killed, being ourfelves the cooks. We had a comfortable
fupper ; and w hile the thick and pungent fmoke made the tears
trickle down our cheeks in large drops, we merrily drank, in a
bumper of brandy, to the deftrudion of our enemies, who kept us
in a ftate of blockade, ftill hovering at the gate of our citadel, and
furious with refentment at the trick we had played them. Ths
hole for letting out the fmoke being opened for a fhort time, fome
of the infedls had the courage to come in, but foon paid the forfeit
of their temerity : but in return, if any of our garrifon made a fally
to fetch wood or water, or any other necelTary, the whole flying
army took ample vengeance by attacking and almoft devouring
him alive. Having finlfhed our cookery and our fupper, we laid
ourfelves down quite clofe to one another, the Laplanders literally
upon each other, like entwined ferpents in winter; the whole
company lying around our great preferver and protedlor, the cen-
tral fire.
2 A change
THROUGH LAPLAND. 91
A change having taken place in the atmofphcrc, tliere fuddcnly
arofe fuch a ftorm of wind and rain, as threatened ahnoll to tlinn'f
down our cabin. The ftnall degree of comfort our flielter afforded
was enhanced by the howhng of the tempefl, and by the con-
fideration that it would involve the deftrudlion of our enemies.
At every whiftling blaft of the wind, " Behold now," we faid to
one another, " the total difcomfiture of our befiegcrs ! They are
" put to rout, difperfed, and driven before the wind to a hundred
" miles diftance !" This confolatory refledion contributed to lull
us to a found fleep, which the fucceeding calm did not for fomc
time difturb. In the morning I went boldly out of my hole, with-
out hat-, gloves, or veil, to breathe a little frefli air, and, being now
freed from the inceffant attacks of the mufquetoes, to view in
tranquillity the face of the country. I took a walk round the
cabin, in order to make myfelf fure that we were now at laft in a
ftate of peace and fafety : when lo ! an ambufcade ruflied forth
againfl me. I was all of a fudden covered over with the whole
army of infeds. I fought, wrapped myfclf clofe up as well as I
could, and fled to the cabin, which, fox want of due fumigation,
did not afford me relief fo foon and fo eafily as I expeded. Dur-
ing the llorm the infeds had the fagacity to get behind the fide of
the cabin that was flicltered from the violence of the wind, and
waited till it fliould be over, and till an opportunity offered of
making a frefti attack. Their plan and tadics were attended with
complete fuccefs. When we refumed our journey, we were flill
N 2 attended
94 " TRAVELS
' attended by an hoft of alTallants almoft as numerous as that by
which we had been purfued to the cabin.
We had yet forty miles to travel before we (hould arrive at Al-
ien, though we had already advanced twenty miles from the place
■where we left the river. The ftorm that had prevailed in the
nicht had not brought fine weather by a diffipation of the clouds.
The fpace over which we were to go this day prefented a profpedl
almoft as dreary as the day before. It feemed to us that we were
fometimes going higher up in the mountains than we had hitherto
done : we ftill found fnow as we proceeded. Our fervant was par-
ticularly charmed with the idea of our being fo near the clouds :
he feemed to imagine that he was already divefted of a part of his
mortality ; and the better to enjoy the illufion, he would fome-
times go out of his way and take a circuit, in order to get higher
up in the atmofphere. At one time he was wholly out of our
fight : we began to call him, but he did not hear us; we waited
for him, but he did not come ; we fired our guns that he might
know whereabouts we were : ftill he did not make his appear-
ance. If he had been a handfomer youth, we might have been
induced to fufpecl that Jupiter had fent his eagle to fetch him, as
he did in former times for Ganymede ; but his figure prevented
any fuch apprehenfion. He returned to us at laft ; and on our
interrogating him why he left his company, he faid, that feeing'
a beautiful cloud very near him, he had run after it for the pur-
pofe of know ing better than he did what kind of thing it was ;
but
• • THROUGH LAPLAND. 93
but that he found himfclf by degrees fo involved in it, as to lofe
his way, and to be ignorant of the diredlion we had taken.
When we had any eminence to afccndj wc looked at our tlicr-
mometer at the bottom, and found that it was colder by two de-
grees at the fummit of fome of them. The w eather all the while
was very unfavourable and incommodious for travelling : it was
exceffively moifi:, and the clouds with which we were conftantly
furrounded, communicated fuch a degree of humidity to our tent,
baggage and clothes, that we could no where enjoy any comfort-
able repofe. We thought it better, without halting, to pufli for-
ward as well as we could. At length, by dint of perfeverance in
our fatiguing progrefs, we began to defcend the mountains. After
paffing by a catarad, dafhing perpendicularly from the fummit of
fome rocks, which was fed by the melting maffes of fnow and the
moifture of the clouds that crept along the brows of the moun-
tains, we were prefented with the moft charming landfcapes. We
were ready to fancy ourfelves tranfported as by a magic rod into
another atmofphere, another country, another climate. On the
oppofite fide of thofe mountains, which arc the Alps of Lapland,,
all is on a gigantic fcale, all is rich and beautituL Vegetation of
every kind is both abundant and luxuriant, the herbage thick, and
the trees large. Here they ilart up to view all at once in fuch-
frequent and extenfive groupes, as are not to be fcen any where in
any of the declivities of the fouthern chain of mountains. We
plunged into the depths of a wood where the grais rofe to the
height of our knees : but I cannot exprefs the pleafure I felt at •
feeing.
94 TRA\TLS
feeing again the river of Altcn rolling its pellucid flrcam through
rich meadows, and with a velocity which recalled to our minds
our paflage from Kautokcino to Koinosjoki. Betwixt Kautokeino
to the charming diftrid: where we had now arrived, a fpace of one
hundred and twenty Englifh miles, we did not meet with a hu-
man creature, excepting the two Laplanders of Kautokeino, who
left their nets and followed us, as before -mentioned.
At the place where we now were, we at length fell in with a
falmon-fiflier, who had come thither with his wife. It is fo un-
ufual and unheard-of a thing to meet with any human being in
thofe fequeftered regions, that when the woman heard the noife
we made in the woods, fhe was affrighted, and wanted to per-
fuade her hufband to betake himfclf with her to flight, for fear of
ibme wild bead, or unknown monfter, coming to devour them.
When we came up fhe had not recovered herfelf ; however Ihe
had become more compofed as flie had a nearer view of us while
we approached. She was young, and the changes of colour in her
countenance occafioned by fear rendered her the more interefling.
Perhaps it was the effedl of our prefent folitude, and owing to the
circumftance that we had not enjoyed the pleufure of feeing the
fair fex for a long time, but I thought that this woman was not
unworthy of a place in the number of beauties. She had black
eyes, regular features, and chefnut hair. Whatever was the caufe
I know not, but I could not help fixing my eyes on her more than
on any other of the furrounding objeds. The fiflier had a (lore
of excellent falmon, and alfo a pot for boiling it. He cut two or
three
THROUGH LAPLAND. 95
three of his fifli into flices, and treated our whole caravan with a
difli of his falmon, prepared in the manner of foup and bouiUic,
feafoned with fome herbs and fait, and a handful of oatmeal, which
he took out of a bag that feemed to form not the leaft important
article of his wealth. Having neither plate, fork, nor fpoon, we
were obliged to fupply the place of thefe with pieces of the bark
of the birch-tree, and we made an excellent dinner.
This falmon-fifher's boat was of great ufe in tranfporting us
over a river that obflru6led our way to Alten, where we were de-
firous of arriving as quickly as poffible, in order to put an end to
a fatiguing journey of nearly forty miles through the mountains.
We were landed from the boat in a wood, the paths or trads of
which gave us to underftand that we had now come to a country
inhabited by men. We enquired every inftant of our guides who
went before us, where was Alten-Gaard ? how many miles we
had travelled, and how many we had yet to go ? Every moment
we expeded to be at our journey's end, and our knees began to
tremble, unable any longer to fupport us, as we purfued our wind-
ing road through this foreft ; when, to our extreme mortification
as well as furprife, we difcovered that the labyrinthical tradl we
followed had mifled us ; and after an hour's walking we perceived
that we were exaftly at the fame fpot where we had landed from
the filherman's boat.^ Amidft this defolation, we could not help
* Nel bofco Fenau molto fi avvolfe
E litrovoffi alfiii ondc fi tolfe. Ariosto.
" Long through the devious wilds the Spaniard part,
" And to the river's hanks returned at laft:
" The place again the wandering warrior view'd,
" Where late he dropt his cafque amid the flood.
96 TRAVELS
laughing moft heartily, and taking this miferable adventure eafily.
It was but a harfh kind of pleafantry ; but, as there was no re-
medy, we determined to fet out afrefli ; and, by way of greater
precaution, we had recourfe to our compafs, in order to apprife our
guides when we thought they were proceeding in a wrong direc-
tion. This contrivance was not without its utility ; and we foon
came in fight of the place whither we were bound. But before
we could arrive at Alten-Gaard, we had yet a journey of eight
miles to accomplifli. As we were incapable of this without ex-
haufting ourfelves too much, we went in and flept fome hours at
the firft houfe that we came to. Next day we reached the habi-
tation of a Norwegian merchant, which alone compofed the vil-
lage, fo much longed for, of Alten.
CHAPrER
TPIROUGH LAPLAND.
97
CHAPTER X.
Situation of Alt en- Gaard — FrofpcSi to the Frozen or ley Ocean —
Bathe In this Sea — Inhabitants of Alt en- Gaard; their Hofpitality —
Plan for proceeding to the North Cape by Water — Departure from
Alten- Gaard — Pafs near Mount Himellar, or Heaveti-man ; Wa-
terfalls from this Mountain — Beaut ful Scenery — Meet with the
Habitation of a Lapland Family, but find the Houfe deferted —
Vijjt another Hut — Condition of the Laphviders on this Coajl —
Their Mode of Life, and happy Simplicity — AffeSling Family -fcene
— Fall in with fame xvandering or motmtain Laplanders — Their
Tents and Premifes defcribed — A Herd of Rein- deer — Miferable
Appearance ofthefe Animals — Their great Sufferings from the Heat,
and the Flies, efpecially the OEfirus Tarandi, Linn. — Rein-deer
Milk — Pafs the Whaal Sund, or Sound of Whales — Havefund, a
ftngle Houfe, in a difmal Situation — Appearance of Nature as you
approach the North Cape — Magerbn, or Bare Ifland — Arrive at
the North Cape — Defcription of this Promontory.
TN walking to the merchant's houfe we obferved in an adjoin-
ing pafture two or three horfes. The appearance of this ani-
mal, which we had not feen in the courfe of five hundred miles,
indicated that we had come to the refidcnce of a perfon who was
Vol. IL . O a ftranger
98 TRAVELS
a ftranger here, and the native of a civilized country. The houfe
was fituated on an eminence, and commanded on one fide a view
of the oppofite mountains, and the malTcs of fnow with which
they are conftantly covered ; on the other fide it afforded a prof-
pe6l to the Frozen Ocean, which here penetrates into the land,
and forms a confiderable gulf, near which the houfe in queftlon:
was built. We were delighted at finding ourfelves at fo fhort a
diftance from the obje6l of our journey, which was to put an end
to our toils and hardfhips. The beautiful colour of the fea, and
the brilliant tranfparency of the waters, offered a moft pleafing
lpe6lacle to our eyes ; but nothing, indeed, cheered our minds fo
much as the idea of having fo far fucceeded in our enterprize.
The fight of mountains covered with fnow, and the name of the
Frozen Ocean, amidft a heat as great as that in Italy, heightened
the contrafi; between thofe oppofite circumftances, and reprefcnted
this place to our imagination as fbmething fingular and extraordi-
nary, which was not to be met with in any other part of the
world. Even the very thought of having reached the Frozen
Ocean had fomething fublime in it : to enjoy it ftill farther, and
to make the moft of it, we determined to throw ourfelves into
the waves of this fea, and to recruit our exhaufted ftrength by a
bath. The merchant gave us warning not to do this ; nobody,
he faid, rifked bathing there, for fear of fliarks : but we could not
refift the ftrong inclination that impelled us, and we did venture
to plunge into the water. This, however, was fo infufferably
cold, that it was not long before we came out of it, and we felt
our
THROUGH LAPLAND. 99
our legs {o benumbed that they were fcarccly able to fupport us
on the beach.
After dreffing ourfelves and fliaving our beards, which were of
iix days growth, we were called to dinner ; and not a little fur-
prifed to find fix different difhes, with a bottle of wine fet down
for each perfon. This profpcdl comforted us ftill more than the
view of the Frozen Ocean, and after dinner we found ourfelves
more refrefhed by the wine than we had been by the fea water.
We thought ourfelves now in paradlfe, in elyfium, in an en-
chanted palace. Every thing was good ; every thing was delici-
ous ; and the keennefs of our appetite doubled the convivial and
focial pleafure. The merchant was a married man, and his lady
was an excellent praftical cook, as well as a perfedl houfewife.
They had a boy who waited at table ; and the fociety of the
houle was increafed by the refidence of the bailiff of that diftri(^
of Lapland, who after the death of his wife had come to live with
the merchant, for the fake of company. The bailiff was a very
worthy and pleafant man, and much efteemed in this family, and
in all the diftridl. We found ourfelves fo comfortably fituated
here, that it was not without regret we began to talk of proceed-
ing in our expedition to the North Cape ; this, however, was in-
difpenfible, for it was proper and neceffary to avail ourfelves of
the favourable feafon. We inquired into the befl manner of per-
forming this route ; how many days it would require by land,
and how many by fea ; if any one had made this journey before
us ; and what was the diflance between the North Cape and Al-
O 2 ten ?
,oo ' TRAVELS
ten ? We were informed that the North Cape was diflant front
Alten thirteen Norwegian miles ; that is, above a hundred miles
Englifli ; that it was impoffible to get there by land, and that
the only way was to go by fea. The whole of this peninfula they
defcribed as one continuation of mountains, interfedled by lakes^
rivers, and impenetrable morafles, which would intercept our pro-
grefs at every flep. They aflured us, that admitting the poffibi-
lity of overcoming thofe obftaclcs, we could not poffibly reach ths
North Cape by that way in lefs time than a fortnight. A journey
to the North Cape, they faid, had never been undertaken by any
one in fummer, on account of its great length and the almoft in-
fuperable difficulty of accomplifhing it ; and as we were limited
in refpe6l of time, and had a great diflance to go back to Tor-
nea, we might be too late in the feafon for doing fo. If we were
overtaken by the bad weather, we fhould not be able to return
till winter had fairly fet in, fo that we might travel in fledges.
After weighing all circumftances, we determined to proceed to
the North Cape by water ; and we propofed, when we flaould be
about half way to make fome excurfions into the peninfula.
The third day of our ftay at Alten, the merchant procured us
four men, and an open boat with four oars. One of thefe men
had doubled the Cape before, and confequently was acquainted
with the courfe to be taken. The other three were very good
feamen, and had been on thofe coafts on the bufmefs of fifliing.
One of th^m, who aded as pilot, fpoke the Norfe, or Norwegian
Linguage ; the other three that of Finland and Lapland. It pro-
mifed
THROUGH LAPLAND. loi
mlfed on the whole to be a very pleafant and comfortable expedi-
tion. We were furniflied with cufliions and mattrefles, bed clothes
and coverings. By way of provifions, we had every thing that
was good, fuch as white wine, claret, brandy, frefh falmon, roaited
fowls, veal, hams, coffee, tea, with the necelTary utenfils; and, in
a word, all that we could poffibly have occafion for. It was, in-
deed, nothing but a party of pleafure on the icy ocean. The
gulf that I have mentioned, indenting -the mountains, offered
every where the moft magnificent and interefting profpedl.
We fet out from Alten, on Monday the 15th of July, at two
o'clock in the afternoon ; and we did not arrive at the Cape till
the night between the Friday and Saturday following. Three
miles from Alten wc paffcd vn our right a mountain, called in
Norwegian Himellar, or Heaven-man, from which there fell into
the fea five or fix cafcades, two or three hundred yards of per-
pendicular height. Farther onward was another grand catarad,
where we quenched our thirft. We went up into the mountains to
fee the place where it had its fource, and were furprifed to find
at their fummit very beautiful natural meadows. Still farther off,
we again faw a fine cafcade rufhing down from another moun-
tain. All thefe waterfalls were fiapplied, no doubt, by the melt-
ing of the fnow on the difl:ant mountains, which formed as it
were the back ground of the pifture. -The cafcade lafl: mentioned
was precipitated from a hill, adorned on three fides with a wood
of birch, fpread in the manner of an amphitheatre, fo that it ap-
peared as if it had been planted by the hand of man. In the midll
of
102 . TRAVELS
of this pleafure-ground ftood a wooden houfe, covered with turf*
and inhabited by a family of fixed Laplanders. I wiflied to pay
them a \ ifit ; one of our guides, however, befought me not to go
there immediately by myfelf, but to fend him on before me ; be-
caufe, faid he, the family will perhaps be frightened at the fight
of a ftranger of fo different an appearance from their own. He
went into the houfe, but found nobody there : it was completely
deferted : the family had either gone on a fifliing excurfion, or
were in the mountains tending their rein-deer. The architects of
the houfes on thofe coafls, appear to have been of the fame fchool
with him who built the church of Mafi ; though it might not
bear quite the fame proportion to that church, which our houfes
do to cathedrals. I cannot fay that we were very difcreet in our
vifit : we looked at, and fearched out every thing, even their
pockets : all was open and expofed ; for there are no locks in Lap-
land. We found not any article of curiofity, befides a box of
rofin. This juice ifiues from the fir-tree, of which the Laplan-
ders make an ointment for dreffing their wounds. We returned
with regret to our boats, and it was not without pain that we
bade adieu to fo charming a profpedt, W'hich bore a fi:riking
refemblance to all that is mod romantic and delightful in the
natural fcenery of Switzerland.
There was not a breath of wind, and our boatmen were much
fatigued with rowing in fo great a heat. In order to give them
fome rcfpite, and to gratify our own curiofity, we vifited all the
Laplanders fettled on this coaft, who generally Uved at the dif-
tance
THROUGH LAPLAND. 103
tance of a Norwegian mile, or mile and a-half from one another.
Abundance and contentment reign in all their dwellings. Each
Laplander is the proprietor of the territory around his- little man-
fion, to the extent of a Norwegian mile, or eight eight Englifli,
in every diredlion. They have fome cows which furnifli them
■with excellent milk, and meadow land which yields hay for their
fodder in winter. They have every one a ftore of fifli dried in the
fun, not only for their own ufe, but wherewithal to purchafe
luxuries ; that is, fait, oatmeal, and fome woollen clothes. Their
houfes are conllrudted in the form of tents : a hole in the mid-
dle, w'hich gives them light, ferves alio as an aperture for letting
out the fmoke of the fire, which is always placed in the centre
of the cabin ; and around which they fleep quite clofe to one
another. In winter, befides the heat of the fire, they have the
benefit of the animal warmth of the cows, with whom they fliare
the flielter of their roof, as the inhabitants of Scotland do in the
highlands and the northern ifles. The doors of their houfes in
fummer are always open ; and although in that feafon there is no
night, they are accuftomed to fleep at the fame time as other
Europeans ; with the exception of thofe who are in fuch inceflant
purfult of pleafure, as to fly from one obje<5l to another, and pufli
the hours gradually on, till they convert night into day. We have
gone into their cabins at one and two o'clock, after the hour that
we call midnight, when we always found the whole family lain
down and afleep. We have fometimes remained a quarter ot an
hour near them before they were awakened by our prcfcnce from
2 their
,04 • TRAVELS
their profound flumber. They not only fleep with their doors
•wide open, but Co foundly, that it is not eafy to roufe tb.em. The
i'aA is, that they are not expofed to any kind of danger or difturb-
ancc — they are far removed from the anxieties and fears that at-
tend envied poffeffions ; and the only wild beafts that could poffibly
give them any alarm or uneafmefs are, the wolves and bears. But
thefe animals never attack houfes, as they procure fufficient
nourifliment by following the wandering Laplanders with their
rein-deer. There are no venomous animals in thofe rude countries ;
and as to men, they all live in the moft perfedl innocence.
Here the ncceflity of government, for the diftribution of juflice,
and the equal prote<?l:ion of the people, exifts not. A fmall num-
ber of inhabitants, difperfed over immenfe trails of lands, have
little inducement to make aggrefhons on each other ; and the ge-
neral equality of condition that prevails, and above all, the con-
ftitutional feeblenefs of paffion, and equanimity of temper, pre-
vent not only infllcftion of injuries, but refentment. Though the
Lyaplanders 'are defencelefs, yet the rigours of their climate, and
their poverty, fecure them from invafion ; and thus they exill: with-
out combination or protection, and without bending with fubmil-
fion to fuperiors. Here the melancholy examples, which exift in
all hiftories, of the great tyrannizing over the meaner fort, are not
to be tound, nor the falfehood and perjury which generally prevail
among rude and barbarous nations.
In one of the families we vifited, we vi itncfled a very tender and
affedling fcene, which convinced us that fenfibility is not baniflied
from
• THROUGH LAPLAND. 105
from thofe northern latitudes. At three o'clock after midnight
■we entered a cabin, in which there were, befides the maftcr of
the houfe, his mother, his young wife, and two infant children.
They were fail afleep, and we waited for fomc time, that we
might awaken them gently : they all of them lay on the ground,
which they had covered with the branches and leaves of the fra-
grant and aromatic birch ; over thefe w^ere fpread fomc rein-deer
fkins. They flept as the maritime Laplanders do in general, with
their clothes on ; but thefe being very large and loofe, occafion
no inconvenience by impeding in any degree the circulation of the
blood. The wife awoke firft, and cafling her eyes on one of our
boatmen, whom flie knew\ fhe was glad to fee him, and entered
into converfation with him in Lapponefe. The hufband and his
aged mother alfo awoke foon after, but the children continued in
their found fleep. The old woman perceiving our Laplander,
buril into a flood of tears ; the young woman likewife wept ; fo
did the boatman ; and fo by inflindive fy mpathy did we all,
without knowing why. For a moment we prefcrved a dead
filcnce ; when our interpreter having entered the cabin, and found
us in tears, ailced in Finnlfla the reafon of all this forrow ?
The occafion was this — the old woman had feen the boatman
about a year before, when flie was in perfe<ft health ; but fmcc
that time fhe had been feized with a ftroke of apoplexy, which
had totally deprived her of the ufe of fpeech. After this general
emotion had fubfided, we aiTced for fome rein-deer milk and
cheefe. Our landlady immediately went out of the cabin and
Vol. II. P condudcd
io6 >■ TRAVELS
conduced us to the ftore, which was a little wooden box, or fhed,
raifed upon beams to a certain height from the ground, that the
provifions it contained might not be damaged by the humidity
of the fnow in winter. Wc were afloniflicd at the quantity of
things this good and provident woman had in her magazine^
There was great plenty of dried fifli, and dried rein-deer flefli,
cheefe, and tongues of the rein-deer, oatmeal, rein-deer fkins,
fur and woollen cloths, and other articles. Every thing befpoke
riches and comfort ; and, what was rnofl: remarkable, our kind
hoftefs gave us whatever we wanted in the mofl liberal manner,
and without the leaf!: idea of receiving aught in return ; on the
contrary, flie perfifled in refufmg to accept any money when we
offered it. I have fccn very few places where the people live in
'ib cafy and happy a fimplicity as in the maritime diftri(5ls of Lap-
land. Their huts are dark and narrow, and they have neither
bedHcads, chairs, nor tables ; for they fleep and fit more com-
fortably on the ground, and their houfes are as convenient as they
need be for their occupations and different purfuits. Their local
fituation has, at leaft in fummer, a cheerful and fmiling afpedl,
being placed near the fea, and at the foot or on the fides of moun-
tains, where the bountiful hand of nature has given them rich
paitures that want no cultivation ; and what is mofl: valuable, the
ground on which they tread, and the foil which yields them fuf-
tcnance, they call their own, and acknowledge no landlord over
it. There is no malier to trouble them, or to infpire them with
any fear or apprehenfion : the only fevere influence they have to
dread, arifes now and then from the rapacity of merchants.
THROUGH LAPLAND. lo;
We left this cabin to purfue our voyage ; but after proceeding
five or fix Englifli miles, we were obliged by the wind again to
land, when we determined to take advantage of this interval to
make an excurfion into the interior of the country, in order to try
if we could meet with any thing remarkable, and particularly,
whether we could not get a fight of fome wandering Laplanders
with their rein-deer and their tents. We travelled feven or eight
Englifli miles on foot, and found here and there, amidft thofc
mountains, delicious fpots and vallies, enclofed by hills that were
covered with birch and fome other trees. We enjoyed the fliade,
and the frefhnefs of the brooks or rivulets that watered the vallies.
We at lafl came to a movintain Laplander's tent, and our curiofity
was fatisfied : this tent vas of a conical form, and not fliaped as
tents are in general. They put together feveral pofts or beams
of wood, frefli cut down, flicking them with one end in the
ground, and making them meet at the top. Thele beams they
covered all round with pieces of woollen cloth, which they faftened
to one another. The diameter ot the tent we faw at the bafe
was eight Englifli feet. In the middle was the "fire, and around
the fire fat the Laplander's wife, a boy, who was his fon, and
fome inhofpitable and furly dogs, which nrver ceafcd barking at
us all the time we remained near them. Faft by the tent was
erected a flied, confifling of five or fix flicks or pofls, that were
fafl:ened to one another near the top, in the fame manner as the
tent, and covered with fkins and pieces of cloth. Under this
canopy the Laplanders kept their povifioiis, which were cheefe
P 2 of
io8 ■ TRAVELS
of the rein-dccr, a imall quantity of milk of the fame, and dried
£ih. A little further was a rude inclofure, or paling, made in
hafte, which fcrvcd as a fold or yard for the rein-deer when they
were brought together to be milked — thofe animals were not
near the tents at the time we made our vifit : they were in
the mountains, from whence they w"ould not defcend till to-
wards night. As we did not feel ourfelves difpofed to ramble
about in qucft of them, at the hazard of lofmg ourfelves among a
fcrics of mountains, exhibiting throughout an uniform appear-
ance, we judged it more advifable to oiler fome brandy to the
Laplanders, on condition that they would go with their dogs and
bring the rein-dccr home, or as near as they could to the tent.
Scarcely had they fwallowed the brandy, which we had given
them as an carncll of more, when we heard the flirill barking of
the dogs refounding through the mountains. The Laplanders
then told us that the rein-deer were coming ; and very fliortly
after we beheld a troop of not lefs than three hundred deer de-
fcending from the mountains in a dired.ion towards the tent. We
then infifled that they fliould drive the rein- deer within the in-
clofure near the tent, that we might have an opportunity of feeing
and examining them the better, and tafting the milk frcfh from
the does. They did as we defired ; but not without very great
difficulty, becaufe the animals, not being accuftomed to be fliut
up in the fold at that hour of the day, were imwiliing to
be confined, and it was not till after repeated efforts that the
Laplanders were able at laft, with the affiflance of the dogs, to
compel
THROUGH LAPLAND. 109
compel them to enter. We had then time to view them at our
leifurc. Thofe poor animals were lean, and of a fad and melan-
choly appearance : tlicir hair hung down, and their exccffivc
panting indicated how much they fuffcred at this fcafon of heat
and afflidlion : their Ikins were pierced here and there, and ul-
cerated by the mufquetoes, and the eggs of the fly called, in Lap-
ponefe, kenna, focjlnis tarandi, Linn.) which tormented them in
the molt cruel manner. I made a colledion of thofe infeds and
their eggs, intending them as prefents for my entomological friends.
As to the milk which we tafted, it is not fo good at this time as
in winter. In fummer it has always a kind of ftrong or wild
taftc, and too much of what the French call an luiiiT gout.
Our guides advifed us to return to the boats, and avail ourfelves
of the favourable breeze that had fprung up for purfuing our
voj'age ; and we took leave of our Laplanders, whofe only regret
at our departure fccmcd to be a mortification at the removal of
the brandy. We paffcd in our boat the Whaal-Sund, or Sound
of Whales, which was agitated at the fame time by the current
that fets in here very flrong, and by the wind, which blew con-
trary to the current. Whales relbrt to this ftrait in great num-
bers, and are, as we were told, very common in all thefe feas.
Although we were aflured by our mariners, that they had never
pafTed this ftrait without feeing eight or ten whales, we were fo
unfortunate as not to get a fight of one. We went on fliore to
the houfe o{ a merchant, fituated on an ifland near Havefund :
this was perhaps the moll difmal habitation on the face of the
earth.
MO - TRAVELS
earth. The whole land around it did not produce one tree or
Ihrub ; no, nor fo much as a blade of grafs : there was nothing
to be fcen but naked rocks. The inhabitant of that houfc had
not any thing but what he brought from a dirtance, not even fuel.
The fun for three months of the year is not vifible ; and if, during
that fpace of time, the atmofphere were not illuminated by the
aurora borealis, he would be buried in profound darknels — Dread-
ful place to live at ! The only attradion in thefe abodes is fiJliing,
and the love of gain. The nearer one approaches the North
Cape, the more nature feems to frown : vegetation dies, and leaves
behind it nothing but naked rocks.
Proceeding on our voyage, we left on our right the ftrait formed
by Mageron, or Bare Ifland, and the continent. The vaft ex-
panfe of the Frozen Ocean opened to our left, and we arrived at
laft at the extremeft point of Europe, known by the name of the
North Cape, exadlly at midnight.
Siftimus hic tandem, nobis ubi defult orbis.*
The North Cape is an enormous rock, which projeding far into
the ocean, and being expofed to all the fury of the wa\es and the
outrage of tempefts, crumbles every year more and more into
ruins. Here every thing is folitary, every thing is fteril, every-
thing fad and defpondent. The fhadowy foreft no longer adorns
the brow of the mountain ; the fmging of the birds, which en-
livened even the woods of Lapland, is no longer heard in this
* Here then we flood, and touch'd the earth's laft point.
6 fccne
THROUGH LAPLAND, in
fccne of defolation ; tlic ruggednefs of the dark gray rock is not
covered by a fingle (hrub ; the only mufic is the hoarfc mur-
muring of the waves, ever and anon renewing their affaults on
the huge maffes that oppofe them. The northern fun, creeping
at midnight at the diftance of five diameters along the horizon,
and the immeafurable ocean in apparent contaft with the flcies,
form the grand outlines in the fublime picture prefented to the
aftonifhed fpedator. The inceffant cares and purfuits of anxious
mortals are recolleded as a dream; the various forms and energies
of animated nature are forgotten; the earth is contemplated only
in its elements, and as conflituting a part of the folar fyflem.
CHAPTER
112 " TRAVELS
CHAPTER XI.
A Grotto among the Rocks of the Cape — Rocks, of which the North
Cape is compofed, chiefly Granite — Birds feen near that Cape —
Return from the North Cape — A different Route to Alt en from the
one taken 'before — Ifland of Maafo, and its Inhabitants — Great
Hofpitality and Attention — Advantage of being nij/iaken for a
Prince in travelling— A Phice called Hammerfjl — Hwalmyfing,
a Peninfula — Account of an Knglifli Frigate coming as far as Ham-
merfefl fome Years ago — Arrive again at Alten — Excurfio?i to
Telwig, a great Fiflimarket — Fmbark on the River Alten — Sin-
gular Combination of three Catara£is — Attempt to afcend in the
Boats 07ie of thefc Ifaterfalls — Rcafons for this Adventure — //
fails, and the Travellers are obliged to proceed on Foot over the
MoTintains — Diff'erence of Temperature in the Air — Regain the
River, a7id meet the Laphmders of Kautokeino — Reach Kautokeino ;
thence to Enonteiis — Difficulty of the Journey to the latter Place —
Two Engli/Ii Travellers at Enontekis : their Memorajidums — The
Clergyman of Ejiontekis — ExtraSis from a manufcript Account,
writteji by that Clergytnan, rcfpeciing the Parifli of Etiofitekis :
its Population, Church, Inhabitants, Colonies, Manners, and natu-
ral ProduSiiojts ; among the hatter fome Plants and Birds, and Re-
marks
THROUGH LAPL^^ND. 113
marks on the Difenfes of the Rein- deer — Journey from Enonfekis to
Torneii and Uleliborg — Conclufion.
TJTAVING made drawings ot'thofc rocks under various afpeds,
we landed from our boat, and fcrambled upon the top of
them. Wc there found fome pieces of wood thrown out by the
fea, with which we kindled a fire in the face of the Frozen Ocean,
and began to prepare a repaft. In looking about for a place to
which we might retire with fome comfort, we difcovered a grotto
formed by three rocks, whofe fmooth and polifhed fides indicated
that they had heretofore been waflied, for many ages, by the waves
of the fea. In the midil of thefe rocks was a large roundiOi flone, ~
under which there ran a fmall ftream of water. As we \\cre
tracing the courfe of this ftream, which had its fource in a neigh-
bouring mountain, we found on its margin fome plants of angelica.
This we regarded as a great acquifition to our table, becaufe we
had found it to be a very refrefliing and falubrious vegetable. The
grotto was fo convenient, that it had the appearance of being
the work of art. The ftone in the centre ferved for a table,
around which we could place ourfelves ; and we had only to Hoop
down to replenifli our bowl with water, perfectly frefh and
fweet, though we were within a few paces of the fait fea. We
regretted much that we had no iron implement wherewith to en-
grave fome motto, or at leaft our names on thofe rocks. After
we had finlflied our repaft, we amufed ourfelves with going up to
the hlgheft parts of the rocky eminence, which were very rugged,
Vol. II. Q. and
J 14 • " TRAVELS
and thence precipitating down large maffcs of ftone. Thefe in
their fall made a terrible crafli, as they ftruck againfl: every thing
that oppofed their way to the ocean. The rocks on thole coafts
are for the moft part compofed of granite. The North Cape it-
felf is a mafs of granite, interfperfed with feme veins of quartz,
lying in the diredion of fouth and north. In the femicircle
of rocks which form the Cape, is a point or prominence to-
wards the weft, where we fovind fnow on a fpot not more than
two fathoms above the level of the fea; a circumftance which ap-
pears, in fome meafure, to confound the French theory refpefting
fnow at a certain height in the atmofphere, and indeed the whole
fyftem of Malran, BufFon, and Baillie, refpeding central heat.
The only fpecies of birds that we could difcover on thofe rocks
was one of the genus motacilla. But at a fmall diftance from the
Cape, out at fea, the nr'ia grille, fome fpecies of larus, and the
alca ar6i'ica were very common; and I fucceeded in bringing
down feveral of thofe birds.
A gentle breeze fetting in from towards the north invited us to
leave the Cape, and enabled us to make ufe of our fall : but we
had fcarcely proceeded five or fix Engllfli miles, when \\ e were
overtaken by a calm, which obliged our people to have recourfe
to their oars. We did not return to Alten by the fame courfe,
but vifited whatever we underftood to be in any way worthy of
our notice on the iflands that fringe the coaft. We came firft to
the ifle of Maafo, which is Inhabited by a clergyman, a merchant,
and thirty families befides. The merchant received us with the
hlgheft
THROUGH LAPLAND. 1 1 5
hiafheft marks of diftindion : he offered us different kinds of liquor;
he made us a prefent of feme fponges, which are found in thofe
parts, together with fome fea-fliells ; among the latter was a cancer
Bcrnhardus ercm'ita, in a hucc'niHm glaciale : he gave us alfo a fpecl-
men of an a/ca alee, which his fon had fl:uffcd ; he flicwcd us the
environs of his habitation ; thcfe confifled fimply of rocks and fome
caverns, v\ here they hunted the otter : and at our departure, he
hoifted the Danifli flag, and fainted us with three difcharges of
his cannon. All thele exceffive marks of rcfpc6t and veneration
were not, perhaps, the effect; of mere hofpitality, but more pro-
bably of the delufive fancy that we were two princes travelling in
difgulfe. This delufion was founded in a circumftance that had
previouily happened. A fon of the late duke of Orleans, after tra-
velling through Norway, came from thence to this coaft in a fliip.
From the ifle he proceeded to Alten, from Alten he traverfed on
horfeback nearly the fame ground that we had done, in company
wlth a young man of the name of Montjoye; Both travelled
under borrowed names : the firft under that of Miiller, the fecond
under that of Froberg, which is of the fame import in the Ger-
man as his own name in French. The year after thefe gen-
tlemen had been here, the merchants on the coaft were informed
by their correfpondents that one of them was the Prince of Or-
leans : and from that time they believed in Norway, as well as on
the coall of Lapland, that every ftranger, accompanied by another,
and one or two fervants, was fome prince on his travels, either for
inftru^llon or amufement. In order to form a juft eflimate of
Q 2 the
n,^ . • TRxWELS
the hofpltable treatment we received at Maafo, it would be ne-
cefTary to know whether the two perfons Juft mentioned obtained
the fame marks of refpedl that we did. I travelled afterwards
with my countryman Mr. Bellotti, through Norway, where we
were treated, in like manner, with the moft diftinguiflicd marks
of honour. I certainly acknowledge with gratitude the hofpi-
tality fhewn us in that country ; but I cannot, without due re-
gard for truth, om.it to notice, that it was every where believed
that we were Italian princes, w ho had come to pafs fome time in
the North, during the troubles of Italy ; and all the almanacks
were moft carefully perufcd in order to find out what princes we
might be. My friend being of a more delicate frame and com-
plexion than I, paiTed for the unknown prince ; and myfelf, who
was of a more robuft conftitution and appearance, was taken for
his fccretary or travelling tutor. Some took him for a fon of the
duke of Parma, others for a fon of the duke of Modena ; and
ieveral who w-ere more fcrupulous in their invcftigation than the
reft, referred to genealogical accounts, that by comparing his age
with that of other yoimg princes whom they ibund mentioned,
they might be enabled to trace and afcertain his true rank and de-
fcent. I have no doubt but we fliould have met with the fame
polite hofpitality, independently of all deception : but I cannot
forbear thinking that this notion was not without its influence
among certain clafles of people in the principal towns of Norway,
where we remained fome days.
From Maafo we proceeded to Hammerfeft, a place where there
are
THROUGH LAPLAND. 117
are two or three merchants and a clergyman, with a few other
famUies. All thofe little fettlements on this coall: bear a very near
refemblance to each other : around them is the fame flcrility, the
fame nakednefs, the fame rocks.
Near Hammcrfeft flows a fmall river which paflcs tlirough a
pleafmg glen, fliaded by fome birch-trees : in tliis river there are
fome excellent falmon caught. Dired;ly oppofite to Hammerfeft
is a peninfula called Hwalmylling, abounding very nnich with
hares, for the iTcins of which the proprietor draws from t\^o to
three hundred rix dollars a year. One of the merchants at Ham-
mcrfeft gave us a confufed account of an Englifli frigate, about
fcven or eight years before, having come to thofe coalls, in the
time of his predece-flbrs, with two alironomers, one of whom built
an obfcrvatory for himfelf on a neighbouring mountain, and the
other went to fix his rcfidcnce for fome time at the North Cape,
He neither recolled;ed the particular year, nor the names of the
aftronomers ; but only that the appearance of the fliip made fuch
an imprelTion on the people on thofe coalls, that they all came to
fee her, and went away with terrible apprehenfions that Ihe had
come to carry war and deftrudlion into their country. The cler-
gyman of Hammerfeft was fo fquare and fto\it a man, and of fo
gigantic a ftature, that if the extent of his underlLinding had borne
any proportion to that of his corporeal frame, he would have been
the ableft divine of our age. He fpoke both Latin and German, and
was very inquifitivc about news and politics. He was mightily re-
joiced at feeing us, being convinced that we fliould be able to give
him
j;i.8 TRAVELS
him fome news more recent than any that he had heard. One
may form an idea of the Httle communication there is between
thofe parts and the reft of Europe from the following circum-
ftancc : it was the IQth of July, 1/99, and the minifter of Hem-
merfeft had received no intelligence concerning the great atfairs
of nations fmce the vidory obtained by the Englifli fleet at Abou-
kir, in Auguft 1/98.
We did not receive the fame honours as at Maafo, becaufe,
perhaps, the merchants at Hammerfeft had neither cannon nor
ammunition. Such is the wcaknefs and foolifli vanity of human
nature, that on our departure from this place, we were fenfible ot
fome difappointment in not hearing any report of cannon. We
fhould not have been difpleafed if the fame mark of refped, or
rather folly, had been fhewn us.
, At Altcn we found ready to meet us a man whom I had employed
to colled: plants and infeds, and another who had come to enter-
tain us with his fiddle, and to give us a fpecimen of the mufic of
this part of Europe. See Aj)pe7idix. At this village we remained
fevcral days for the purpofe of making the neceflary preparations
for our return to the gulf of Bothnia. During this interval of
repofe, we made a fliort excurfion to Telwig, in order to fee the
Laplanders who came thither from all quarters to fell their fifli.
It is a fmall port or creek of the fea, three miles from Alten,
where there is a village inhabited by fome merchants and a cler-
gyman : it pofl'effes a church.
I fliall not fatigue my reader with a detail of all the minute cir-
8 cumftances
THROUGH LAPLAND. 119
cumftanccs of our return acrofs the defcrt. I (hall condii6l him
by rapid marches to Tornea, giving only the outline of our jour-
ney. In two boats we reafcended the river Alten againll all its
cataracts, and by dint of perfeverance, pufiied farther up than any
one had ever done before. The paflage along this river is as pictu-
refque as the imagination and heart of a painter can defire. Its banks
are fometimes beautifully decked with birch ; at others they prelent
a rugged and horrid afped ; perpendicular rocks, with here and
there deep chafms and precipices, fearful and inaccefTible. In our
progrefs up the river, we met with a cafcade, milling perpendi-
cularly from a rock, which had a ftriking refemblance to the ruins
of the vaulted roof of a majcftic cathedral: at the footofthefe
rocks is a fmall lake, and all around natural fleps, as if cut in the
ftone, which gives to the whole the appearance of an ancient
temple. Here we faw a bear who had come to the river near this
place to flake his thirfl, but who had no fooner fpied us than he
made off to the woods. A fox too came to drink at the fame place,
which was in front of our tent where we had pafled the night.
Farther onward we were ftruck with two cafcadcs oppofitc to
each other, and both falling from the banks of the fame river,
Alten, which forms itfelf, at a fmall diftance, an infurmountable
cataradl. The proximation of three fuch waterfalls is a circum-
ftance perfcdly fmgular in its kind ; at leall I have never any
where fcen or heard of any thing fimilar ; and had I merely be-
held it reprefented in a drawing, it would have appeared to me
the work of fancy, and altogether incredible. Here we made an
effort
120 -- - TRAVELS
effort to mount up the catara6l of the river, though it feemed to
mock our defign, and to be the ne plus ultra of our navigation.
To facilitate our afccnt, I placed the Laplanders in different fitu-
ations with ropes in their hands, faftened to the boat, and one
tied round my waift, in order to aid my efcape in cafe the boat
fhould founder or be overfct. In facl, it was on the point of
being funk, and had not the Laplander who held the rope faft-
ened to the poop drawn it back in good time, we muft have
gone to the bottom. The dangers and hazards incurred on thefe
catarads were not the effeel either of a fpirit of adventure or of
neceffity, but, paradoxical as it may feem, of lazinefs. We found
ourfelves feated tolerably at our eafe in the boats ; but if the far-
ther navigation ot the river fhould, after our utmoft efforts, prove
impradlicable, then fliould we again be doomed to traverfe a
dreary chain of mountains, at the expence of an irkfome and fa-
tiguing journey on foot, and at the hazard of lofmg ourfelves in
the deferts. The farther we mounted up into the country by the
river, the fhorter would be our rovite by land. Should we be able
to overcome this cataract, the river was likely to be fmooth and
even for a confiderable courfe, when we might make ufe of our
oars. Thefe circumftances invited us to make the attempt : it
was made, but proved fruitlefs.
We therefore took again to the mountains, making new tra-
verfes in order to avoid the lakes and rivers. It was not long be-
fore we found ourfelves in another climate : the thermometer tell
to four degrees of Celfius. Some clouds paffing over our heads
covered
THROUGH LAPLAND. i2i
covered us with fnow or fleet. For twelve hours wc travelled
without intermiffion, except when we found it neceflary to take
fome refrefliment, before we regained the river Alten. The fear
of a change of the weather, or of a florm, accelerated our march :
nor did we indulge ourfelves in either long or frequent paufes,
during a journey that could not be lefs than fifty Englifh miles.
We arrived at lafl at the fame place where we left the Laplan-
ders of Kautokeino with their boats, and who waited in order to
condu6l us back to Kautokeino. We had fent a meffenger to
apprize them of our return, and to engage them to come there
to meet us againfl that day. A northerly breeze faved our boat-
men the trouble of rowing againfl the current. Some branches
of the birch-tree, at that feafbn in full leaf, fet up in the poop,
fupplied the want of a fail.
Having arrived at Kautokeino, we were under the necefTity of
making another long journey on foot, as far as Enontekis, which
place we wiflicd to take into our route. The way was not then
known to be pra(flicable, never having been attempted before.
The mountains which feparate Enontekis from Kautokeino, are
not half fo high as thofe which divide Alten Gaard from Mafi ;
but we were deftined to encounter as great difficulties here as on
thofe of Norwegian Lapland. We had to ford rivers ; we were
infulated by moraffes ; we were bewildered in deferts. Our good
Laplanders knew no more the place in which they were than we
ourfelves : their opinions on this point were divided ; and, but for
the dire^lion of our compafs, we fhould have incurred the rifk of
Vol. II. R wandering
122 • ■ " ■ TRAVELS
'wandering till the approach of winter in thofc woods, or been
under the neceffity of returning to Kautokeino. At laft we fpied
the fteeple of the church of Enontekis, after travelling two days and
a half, and ajourney of near one hundred Engllfli miles. We arrived
at Enontekis the day after the departure of two Englifli travel-
lers, who had undertaken the fame journey as our's ; but one of
them being taken ill with a fever, they w^tc obliged, after re-
maining for fome time at this place, to return. This gentleman
was a mailer of arts, and a fellow of Jefus college, Cambridge ;
a man of genius and lively parts, as well as learning : he had been
in Italy, and underftanding that an Italian was travelling to the
northward, and would perhaps return that way, he wrote down
in a kind of regifler, or book of record, kept by the worthy
clergyman, four lines from Ariofto, which were admirably well
adaoted to my fituation, and painted to the life the fatigues of
my journey.
, Sei glorni mc n' andai mattina e fera,
'Per baize e per pendui orrldi e ftrani.
Dove non via, dove camin non era.
Dove ne fegno, ne veftigia umana.*
Thefe two Englifli gentlemen had ftaid with the clergyman
for a week, and had been treated by the whole family with the
' ■ * Six tedious days, from morn to eve, I pafs'd
O'er many a pendent clifF and horrid wafte;
At length a wild and lonely vale I found.
With hills and dreadful caves encompafs'd round.
Hoole's Tranjl. of Ar'iojio.
. ■ utmofi:
THROUGH LAPLAND. 133
utmoft Iclndnefs during the illnefs that detained them. They de-
termined to exhibit a fiiow, which they conceived would draw
the Laplanders from all quarters to this place, and which feemcd
calculated to make on the minds of this fimple people a great
impreffion. This was, to mount an air balloon. I know not
what efFeft this obje6l might produce on the natives, but I have
reafon to fuppofe that the concourfe was not great. At their de-
parture they wrote down in the regifter their names, with the
following apoftrophe : — " Stranger, whoever thovi art, that vifiteft
" thefe remote regions of the North, return to thy native country,
" and acknowledge that philanthropy is taught amidft civilized
" nations, but prad:ifed where theories of fcience never come."
On the oppofitc page of the book I again found the name of
IMr. Vefvrotti, who had come here to let the Laplanders know,
as he had before informed the Finlanders, in a kind of Franco-
Latin, that he had heretofore been prefident of the parliament of
Dijon.
" Libertatem qurercns feditionifque theatrum fugiens, hie fuit,
" die 15"Marti!, anno 1792."
" Carolus Richard de Vefvrotti, Dijionenfis (of Dijon) pr^fes
" in fuprema rationum curie Burgundi^."
The minifter of Enontekis was a man of learning, and em-
ployed what leifure he has from his paftoral duties, in ftatiflical
and phyfiological invefligations. He has made large collections in
natural hiftory of all kinds : he has alfo written a little book,
containing anfwcrs to a number of queries, made by a Swedifli
R 2 gentleman
124 TRAVELS
gentleman travelling in thofe parts, for the improvement of na-
tural hiftory. This rcfpedable clergyman had gone out of the
houfe a few minutes before our arrival. Poinding his wife to be a
very intelligent, as well as a civilized and well-bred woman, we
put feveral qucflions to her refpeding the population and natural
produ<5lions of that part of the country, on which flie produced
her hufband's manufcript, elucidating the very fubjecls concern-
ing which we defired to obtain fome information. This manu-
fcript was divided into five chapters ; the 1 (t. on the population
of the parifli of Enontekis ; 2d. on ccclefiaftical affairs ; 3d. on
the colonics eftabliflied there ; -1th. on the nomadical or pafioral
Laplanders ; and the 5th. on natural produdlions. I made fome
extradls from the manufcript, which 1 fhall communicate to the
reader.
The population of the village of Enontekis, and of the whole
parifh, confifts of nine hundred and thirty fouls ; of which two
hundred and fifty-eight are colonifts, or fixed Laplanders; and
fix hundred and feventy-two are nomades, or wandering families,
who live in the mountains taking care of the rein-deer.
Concerning the yearly income of his living, and the rents re-
ceived from this parifli, the minifter is filent : but he fpeaks much
of the far-fpread renown of the church of Enontekis ; extended
even to the moft remote regions of the North. The Norwegians,
he fays, when they are going to undertake any long and dangerous
journey, are in the habit of fending to the church of Enontekis,
a candle to be burned there, or fome other fmall prefent, by way
'of
THROUGH LAPLAND. 125
of vow. He informs us that the wandering Laplanders lliU prc-
ferve among them fome remains of paganifm. It happens here
and there in the dcfeits, that a ftone is feen bearing fome refem-
blance of the human form. The Laplanders, when they chance
in the courfe of their movements from place to place with their
herds, to pafs by any of thefe ftones, offer up facrifices to the idol.
There is always found near them a number of rein-deer's horns.
He mentions, that the Laplanders have amongft them a ccnfider-
able quantity of money, which they are in the cuflom ot bury-
ing in the earth ; Co that hundreds of rix dollars are frequently
loft, as the proprietors are often overtaken by fevcrc illnefs and
death, before they have revealed to any one the place where their
treafures are concealed.
Of the drefs of the Laplanders, he obferves, that there is
fcarcely any other difference between that of the mountaineers
and that of thofe who have permanent habitations, except that
thefe laft are, in the fummer feafon, in the habit of wearing
woollen ftuffs in place of the fkins of rein-deer; and that they
have fliirts, which the wandering Laplanders have not. The only
book known among the Laplanders, according to this authority,
is the prayer-book.
He fpeaks of a kind of glue made of the rein- deer's horns,
which, he fays, is of a moft excellent quality. He further ftates,
that the moft common difeafe among the rein-deer, is that of the
milza; for which there is no remedy, and of which the animal
dies in the fpace of one year. He adds alfo, that difeafes of the
eyes, liver, heart, and feet, are very common to thofe creatures.
126 ' ■ TRAVELS
• He mentions the enormous quantity of wolves, which in the
courfe of the preceding year (1798) had committed extraordinary
ravages among the rein- deer, and which he afcribes to the war
in Finland.
On the fubjc^l of natural produftions, he fays, that potatoes
thrive very well ; but that other culinary roots and plants are not
raifed without much difficulty. Barley and oats are produced
here. In the cultivation of the earth they make ufe of a plough
of a conftru6lion peculiar to the country, but which is very well
adapted to ploughing a foil where there is a great number of large
ftones to be avoided in that operation. The ruhus arSi'icus does
not thrive fo well as the ruhus chavitzmorns.
The birds he notices are the following: —
Strix Scandiaca Tringa lobata •;.
' Strix Ny6tea Platalea Leucorodia
■ Tardus rofeus Anas nigra
Motacilla Suecica . Anas Erythropus.
Tringa Lapponica
Of infedls he neither gives any defcriptlon or enumeration, nor
any lift of their names. He made a coUeAion however of them,
•which he fent to his correfpondents in Sweden, and to the aca-
dem.y of fciences, from which he has a penfion of fixty rix dollars
a year, to enable him to purfue his flatiftical refearches, and to
make obfervations, and attend to objeds of natural hiftory.
Our
THROUGH LAPLAND. 127
Our journey from Enontekls to Tornca lay always along the
banks of rivers : we pafled on to Muonionlfca, where we faw our
friend the priefi:, and our excellent pilot Simon. We vifited our
acquaintances at the different places we came to, for inftancc, at
Kengis and Upper Tornea, where we paid our refpedls to the mi-
nifher of the parifh, and his amiable daughters. At Tornea we did
not fail to wait on our friends, the redor and the merchants,
who confidered us prodigious travellers : and at lall: we made a
triumphant entry into Uleaborg, where we difplayed to our fcru-
pulous friends, the fliells, fponges, birds, and other natural curiofi-
ties we had coUefled, in proof of our having really been at the
North Cape, the fartheft extremity of Europe.
^<^■■
CONCLUSION.
** THUS ends a courfe," fays Rcignard, in conclufion of his
Journey to Lapland, " which I would not but have made for all
" the gold in the world, and which I would not for all the gold in
" the world make over again." The French traveller could not,
in my mind, have drawn a jufler picflure of his character, and the
fpirit in which he undertook his diftant travels, than is exhibited
in this enigmatical mode of expreffion. «,
Curiofity is either the effeft of felf-intereft, infpiring a defire of
learning what may be ufeful ; or of " pride, which makes us am-
" bitious of knowing fomething unknown to others." Does not
the
128 ■ TRAVELS
the fecond part of this definition, by Rochefaucault, throw light
upon, and remove as it were the veil from this fentence of Reig-
nard, which is fo much at hoftility with itfelf ? He would not, for
all the gold in the world have forgone the vain fatisfadion of
having been the only Frenchman who had ever been in Lapland,
but at the fame time, by exaggerating the toils of his journey, he
fcems to be defirous of deterring every other perfon who might
wifh to perform it after him. The love of fame is juftly denomi-
nated the laft infirmity of noble minds ; but when it degenerates
into the frivolous vanity of difcouraging others from an enterprife
which we ourfelves have accompliflied, though conceived before
to have been very difficult, it becomes very blameable. This fail-
ing is too common among men of every clafs, and particularly
among men of letters. It is a fentiment wholly unworthy of a
philofopher, and even degrading to his charader. It implies a
defire of retarding the progrefs of knowledge, under the oftenta-
tious pretext of a zeal for difFufmg it ; and fuch difcouragement
is perhaps the mod fatal, when it comes from a quarter refpeded
and looked up to by the public.
Travels in Lapland, inftead of leaving nothing in the mind of
the traveller but an unprodudive vanity, furnifh every one who is
defirous of extending the fphere of his knowledge, and who is
captivated by the Hudy of nature, with a thoufand fubjeds worthy
of his remark and inveftigation, and, probably, have even a ten-
dency greatly to advance fcience, and to improve the happinefs of
human life. How vaft a field is opened for rcfearch to the natu-
ralifi-
THROUGH LAPLAND. 129
rallft, in thofe extcnfivc and unexplored deferts ! The grand diver-
fity and contrariety of climates ; the fudden tranfitions of the fea-
fons ; thofe luminous meteors which, in winter, fupply the place
of the fun ; and that fun which, in fummer, never quits the hori-
zon— Are not thefe phenomena fitted to excite admiration ?
In thofe regions every thing wears an afpefl of novelty. The
rivers and lakes are ftored with their particular kinds of fiflics ;
the mountains abound in mines of every fpecies. The rein-deer,
the glutton, and the lemming, are animals unknown in other
parts of Europe. The ornithologift meets there with birds pecu-
liar to thofe climates ; and the entomologift at every ftep finds,
for the enrichment of his collc6lion, rare and precious infecSs.
Even the penetrating eye of Linnseus left fomething in this walk
for future difcover}-. A number of infeds, even of the order
leptdoptera (butterflies), was afterwards difcovered by Mr. Quen-
zel and others, and form very valuable articles in colledions of
this kind : and although the Fliny of Sweden has been minutely
attentive to the objedls of botany, and fearched in the moil diflant
corners for every indigenous plant which feemed
Born to blufli unfeen.
And wafte its fweetnefs in the defert air,
ftill his pofterity find fufficient employment, in the clafs of cryp-
togamia, which when analyfed by the chemifts, may open new
Iburces of induflry in our manufadlures and commerce.
If the traveller poflefs that enchanting art, by which, on his
Vol. II. S returo
130 TRAVELS
return home, he may in his port-foHo again take a view of thofe
rivers, cafcadcs, and mountains, that prompt fo hvely a recolle6lion
of his fucceffive plcafurcs and pains, he will not want in Lapland
abundant fubje6l:s for his imitative pencil. And although winter
be unpropitious to his art, he will find what in fummer will prc-
fcnt a thoufand objects to invite iiis attention, and an ample re-
compence for his patience. His imagination will be exalted to an
cxtacy of a melancholy kind : a penfive fadnefs, not without its
charms and ufefulnefs.* That profound folitude and filence which
every where reigns, will every inftant fuggeft the queflion, to
what good end do thofe places ferve } To what purpofe all that
beautiful fcenery of lakes, rivers, rivulets, and cafcades, if thofe
deferts are never, as would feem to be the cafe, to be peopled by
human beings ? This queftion will never be folved by man,
while he retains the perfuafion that he is the Lord of the crea-
tion, and fo long as he indulges the idle and prefumptuous preju-
dice, that every thing exifts only for him. Thofe birds which
make the woods refound with their fong, which fwarm in
marflies, on rivers, and in the air, and which in fummer retreat
by a long continued flight to Lapland from all parts of Europe,
in order to provide themfelvcs with nefb — have not thofe crea-
tures a natural right of multiplying their fpecies, as well as man ?
Perfecuted every where elfe by human fnares and induflry, re-
fined by fiditious wants and defires, ought they not to have an
afylum where they may depofit the fruits of their loves ?
"* A melancholy turn of mind beft fitted for love and'fiiendfliip. — Hume.
To
THROUGH LAPLilND. 131
To the enlightened phllofopher Lapland prcfents throughout,
fubjeds of reflecflion and contemplation* — no arts flourilli here
— you no where meet with temples, houfes, wrecks of columns,
or of other monuments. The antiquary walks forth amidft the
ruins of edifices, that he may learn the hiftory, and admire the
adions of former times. In Lapland, the phllofopher has an
opportunity of ftudying among wandering tribes the firfl: elements
of fecial lite ; of fociety in its moft ancient and primitive form —
he comes not here for the purpofe of admiring human produc-
tions, but for that of contemplating nature, the order and har-
mony which prevail in the creation, the fixed and unchangeable
order of things, and the wifdom of Providence that is every w here
confpicuous ; he comes for the purpofe of enlarging in thofe de-
ferts the bounds of his knowledge, of animating his piety, and pre-
paring the way for improving his future happinefs. What a
journey is that to Lapland, to a traveller from the South ! What
* It is an important queftion in natural philofophy, how far the opinion of
Mairan, BufFon, Balllie, and others, concerning what they term central hcaty is
founded on fa£ls. It is afked, was there ever a pried fince the formation of the
earth, when the regions of the North were warmer than they are at prefent r Can
we fuppofe that there has been a change of chmates, and that in the courfe of
ages an ellential difference has taken place in the temperature of the atmofphere ?
Thefc queries would naturally prefent themfelves to a perfon travelling in Lap-
land ; but I am forry to acknowledge, that I have met with nothing that might
tend to anfwer them. So far I can fay, that during the fhort fpacc of time I was
in Lapland, I did not difcover any thing that could be confiJered as confirming
fo fublime a theory. I faw no hot fprings, noi-fimilar velliges of a warmer tem-
perature ; nor did I perceive any traces of a greater population, nor any indica-
tions of very remote inhabitants, by remains of art, and fragments of antiquity.
S 2 Other
132 TRAVELS THROUGH LAPLAND.
other courfc of travels more adapted to produce reflections and
lelTons, that may redound to his well-being! How great his ad-
vantage over travellers from the North, who, quitting the rigours
of their native foil, come among us and contrad, by the force of
habit, a tafte and palTion for pleafurcs which their native country
refufes ! They carry home the defire of enjoying fuch a climate
and fky as that which they have left ; they feel privations every
day ; they regret the want of thofe amufements, which are pecu-
liar to a more refined ftate of civilifation, and to a more genial
climate : they long for the gratification which is derived from
the culture of fcicnce, and the perfedion of the fine arts. But
happinefs is not effcntially promoted by the mere recollc(5tion of
thofe loft enjoyments. The traveller from the South, on the con-
trary, returning from the country which yields no fuch pleafurcs
and advantages, hails with enthufiafm the bounteous fun, whofe
favourable influence and benign rays every where ditfufe gladnefs,
fertility, and plenty ; and if, on his return, he is fo fortunate as to
find peace and fecurity univerfally diffufed over his native country,
and the empire of laws dillributlng juftice and equal protedion to
the people : let him repofe from all his labours and toils ; let him
cultivate in the bofom of his family the civic virtues, anxioufly
cherifli that fcience and civility which have fo clofe a connedion
with virtue and humanity, and teach and afllire his countrymen,
that they are the happieil: people in the world.
GENERAL
GENERAL
MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS
CONCERNING
LAPLAND.
» -» * #
( ^Z7 )
GENERAL REMARKS
CONCERNING
LAPLAND.
SECTION I.
Of fome Writers who have given Accounts of Lapland, efpecially the
MtJJionary Canute Leems — The Authors Views in this part of the
IVbrk explained.
TF a traveller were to confine his attention and his narrative to
the particulars that ad:ually meet his own eye, his difcoveries
would be bounded by a narrow horizon, and even in that compafs
his information would often be very imperfedl. The origin, rea-
fons, and various conned:ions of things are frequently to be learned
from others. It is therefore his bufinefs, not only to converge as
much as poffible with the natives, and all thofe who can afford in-
telligence, but alfo to confult written records. To fwell a jour-
nal with extracts from books within every one's reach, and which
all may underfland, is a common but not a very equitable prac-
VoL. II. T tice.
138 . GENERAL REMARKS
tice. 1 he cafe is othervvlie where the book, containing curious
and ufeful information, is not known to the nations to whom the
traveller addreffes his work, and which, were they acquainted
with its exiftence, would be intelligible only to a very fmall
number.
In order to add authority to my experience, and enlarge my
knowledge of the manners and cuftoms of the Laplanders, I caft
about to procure what affill:ance I could from v^arious accounts,
cither printed or in manufcript, and in my refearches I fortunately
found at Drontheim, the capital of the province of Norway, which
borders on Norwegian Lapland, a work but little known in other
parts of Europe. This book profefledly treats of the Laplanders
inhabiting Finmark, who are fubjed: to the Danlfh crown. The
manufcript was drawn up in the Danifli language by Canute
Leems, who was ten years a miffionary to the Laplanders, con-
ftantly refiding amongft them, and a teacher of the Lapland
tongue in the vicinity of Drontheim. It is dedicated to the pre-
sent king of Denmark, Chriftian the Seventh, by whofe command
it was firft written, and afterwards tranllated into Latin. This
tranflatlon was printed at Copenhagen in 1767: it is illuflrated
by notes, chiefly, though not folely, relating to botany and natural
hiftory, by Gunner, Bilhop of Drontheim, accompanied with a
diiTertation on the pagan fuperftltion of the Laplanders, and up-
wards of ninety copper- plates. From the miffionary's narrative,
and alfo the bilhop's annotations, I have Introduced among my
obfervations what appeared to be moft curious and important.
There
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 139
There exifts an account of Swedilli Lapland, which m no rc-
fpe(5l differs from that of Leems ; but the reader is particularly
cautioned by the miffionary againft another publication by an
anonymous author, in the German language, entitled, Nordifche
Reyfe, &c. which came out about the middle of the laft century.
This German writer makes the Laplanders a nation of magicians,
and has filled his book with monftrous abfurdities, and told the
moft egregious falfehoods concerning them. He afTerts, thnt the
Laplander calls his rein-deer to him by blowing a horn ; and that
when he is about to fct off on a journey he whifpers the animal
in the ear, as if he was informing him of the way he was to go.
Now the mifTionary abfolutely denies that either horn or trumpet
is known amongft the Laplanders, who make no ufe of any mu-
fical inftrument whatever. As to the whifpering in the animal's
cars, the folly of fuch a flatement is a fufficient impeachment of
its veracity. The fame perfon fays, he bought a favourable wind
with money and tobacco of certain inhabitants of Norland, who
gave him a piece of linen rag tied in three knots, which he was
to faflen to the main fail ; and he adds, that upon loofening the
firfl and fecond knots he had a favourable wind, but that the third
caufed a violent tempefl. Our mlffionary totally denies the pro-
bability of the affirmation, though it may be admitted that the
Lapland magicians formerly pretended to fuch power over the
winds ; for the fame affertion has alfo been made by other writers.
Our readers, who are admirers of Hudibras, will recolleft, that
Butler has an allufion to this fuperflition, which undoubtedly he
T 2 . had
,40 > ■ GENERAL REMARKS •
had met with hi thofc authors, in the courfe of his cxtenfuc read-
ing.
The miffionary's book is publillied, very properly, in the Danifli
lan<^ua2;c, as well as in the Latin tranflation. For the barbarous
Latin that the tranflator, though a great mafter of the Latin
tongue, is obliged to ufe from the novelty of the matter (which
even Cicero or Caefar could not have cxprefled in pure latinity),
would in many inftances be unintelligible to good latinifts, if it
were not elucidated by the addition of the Danifh.
The Laplanders, of v^hom an account is given by the miffionary
Leems, are the inhabitants of Finmark, making part of the pre-
fedlure of Dronthcim, and belonging to the crown of Denmark.
And thefe are faid to differ in no rcfpedl in their manners, cuf-
toms, and language, from the Laplanders belonging to Ruffia and
Sweden, and manifeftly to be one and the fame people, though
Under different governments. In following our author through his
work, I fhall, in fome Inftances, go over the fame ground on
which I have already flightly touched. But, where 1 do fo, the
circumftantiality of the miffionary will afford a fufficient degree
t>f novelty and intereft, to prevent the unpleafant fatigue of repe-
tition.
Some writers have defcribed the Laplanders, not only as dirty,
indolent, and immoderately addided to fpirituous liquors, but as
a libidinous and cowardly race of people, covetous of money, and
knavifti in the acquifition of it. The miffionary Leems fhews a
very laudable partiality for thofe people, who have been the objecft
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 141
ot' his pious labours, and among whom, according to his own
account, he has pafled many days ot" hardfliip, for the purj)oic of
pointing out to them the road to ialvatlon. He does not deny all
that has been alTerted in their disfavour, or rather, his mode of
vindication flicws, that however they may be improved in their
manners, they were not always irreproachable. As to their uior-
dinate paffion for intoxication, whether by means of fpirituous
liquors or tobacco, he acknowledges and explains it, though even
here his propenfity to fliade and extenuate their failings is ob-
vious.
From what I have faid concerning the affiflance of which I
fhall avail myfelf in the following account of Lapland, the reader
is not to imagine, that he has to expc(5l nothing farther in the
fubfecjucnt pages than a mere tranflation of the book alluded to.
On the contrary, I have only feleded from it fuch information
as I found interefting and applicable to the prcfent Hate of that
country. This is Interfperfed with my own remarks ; and I have
fliewn in which points I dilfer from the flatements of the author.
Some of his ailertions, which were not confirmed by my own ob-
fervation, I have not introduced : and, laftly, I have inferted large
communications* on the natural hiftory of Lapland, accompanied
by fome plates ; which, I truft, will be received as an acceptable
prefent, by thofe who cultivate that important fclence. It would,
* Chiefly what is faid on tlie birds, and other animals of Lapland, and the
entire feftions on infe£ls, botany, and mineralogy ; alfo the laft feftion, which
contains ibme general obfeivations relative to meteorology and natural hiftory.
however,
142 . .V GENERAL REMARKS
however, be an a6l of injuftice, if I claimed the merit of the laft
mentioned additions as entirely my own ; and I therefore acknow-
ledge with grateful pleafure the obligations I owe to feveral lite-
rary gentlemen for their liberal afliftance. Dr. Quenze), of Stock-
holm, furnilhed me with the lift in the branch of zoology ; by the
kindnefs of Mr. Paycul, of Stockholm, and ProfefTor Thunberg,
of Upfala, in granting me free acoefs to their valuable coUedlions,
I was enabled to form a catalogue, and to take drawings of many
curious obje<fls. Here I cannot omit mentioning the name of my
friend Lieutenant Guftavus Brandel, who, being a proficient in
the art of drawing, rendered himfelf very ufeful to me by his aid
and good advice. For the lift of the indigenous plants of Lap-
land, I am indebted to the goodnefs of ProfefTor Swartz, a name
too well known to need any commendation from my pen ; and
for that of the minerals my thanks are due to Mr. Hyelm, in-
fpedor of the mufeum of minerals, and mafter of the mint, at
Stockholm, a gentleman not lefs dlftinguiflied by his accurate
knowledge, than by the fimplicity and politenefs of his manners,
and his readinefs to aflift the inquifitive in the purfuit of fcience.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. . i^j
SECTION II.
Of the Origin of the Laplanders.
"Tj^ROM whence the Laplanders derive their origin they them-
fclves are wholly ignorant. The moft general opinion is,
that they are defcended from the ancient Finni, or Finns, and
this fuppofition appears to our miffionary, as it muft to all men of
fenfe, more probable than the notion of thofe who deduce their
defcent from the ancient Hebrews. The coincidences, on the
flrength of which the advocates for the Hebrew origin fupport
their opinion, the miffionary thinks it worth while to detail atfome
length. I fhall extrad; the principal of them, not from any idea
that they are worthy of ferious attention, but merely for the pur-
pofe of adding a few to the many examples which are already be-
■ fore the world of the fancies and conceits of etymologifts. — " In
" the firfi: place, the Laplanders generally have black hair, fo have
" the Jews ; the Jews are of fmall ftature, fo are the Laplanders ;
" Saturday was confecrated to devotion among the Jews; fb it
" was alfo, before the introdudion of Chriflianity, among the Lap-
" landers : the manner and modulation of the voice in fmging the
" pfalms in Lapland is very like that of the Jews in their fyna-
" gogues : the Jews, when they offered up facrifices to God, were
8 ' " wont
144 ■ GENERAL REMARKS
*' wont to cat the greater part of the offerings themfelves ; fo
" alfo did the Laplanders in facrificing to their idols — they con-
" fumed the flefh themfelves, leaving nothing to their divinities
" but the bare bones : it was the men who were the cooks among
" the Jews ; fo alfo it is the men, not the women, who are the
" cooks among the Laplanders. Some of the Jewifli laws re-
" fpedling the phyfical condition of women were anciently ob-
" ferved alfo by the Laplanders."
The miffionary obferves, that there are many coincidences in
the manners and modes of life of the Laplanders and the ancient
Scythians. The garments of the Laplanders, like thofe of the
Scythians, confill in the llcins of wild hearts. The Scythians, like
the Laplanders, negleding agriculture, had no fixed habitations,
but wandered about with their wives and children from place to
place, and derived their fubfiftence from their herds of cattle.
Our author alfo remarks very ftrlklng affinities between the lan-
guages of ancient Scythia and Lapland : for example, thmider,
which the Scythians called teram'i, the Laplanders exprefs by
t'lermes.
The miffionary has nothing to objedl to the general opinion
that the Laplanders were originally of the fame race with the
Swedlfh Finns or Finlanders ; an opinion founded on a ftriking
fimllltude of names and other circumftances. But, alter granting
that the Laplanders and Finns may probably have been once the
fame people, and that the marks of difcrimlnatlon now exilting
between them may have been gradually brought on by the courie
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 145
of ages, he thinks himfclf juftified In comprehending under the
name of Laplanders all the people dwelling upon the coafts of
Finland and Norland, who lead a palloral life, like the other in-
habitants of Norway, as well as thole families which wander about
from mountain to mountain with their rein-deer.
With refpedl to the point in queftion, namely, the defcent of
the Laplanders from the Scythians, afterwards called Tartars, the
Bifhop of Drontheim, in his Annotations, obferves, that the Finns,
the neareft anceftors of the Laplanders, are mentioned by Ptolomy,
the geographer, and by the Roman hiflorian Tacitus, whofe de-
fcription of the Finns, the Bilhop might have added, is applicable
in the mod ftriking and important inilances, to the mountain
Laplanders, and the iliepherds of Norland and Finmark of the
prefent day.
The Bifliop, while he confiders the Laplanders and Finlanders
as originally the Finns or the Finni of Ptolomy and Tacitus, fup-
pofes the Finns themfelves to be defcended from the Scythians or
Tartars, and from that tribe or nation of Tartars known by the
name of Samoeids. The Norwegian, Swedifli, and Ruffian Lap-
landers, he holds to be the fame people.
The Finlanders, or Finnifli Laplanders, are offended, Bifliop
Gunner tells us, at being called Laplanders. This he accounts
for with Scheffer, by fuppofmg lap to be a term of reproach.*
* The Laplanders feem to have been known to Herodotus and other ancient
writers, who have given them the names of Cynoccphali, Troglodytes and Pyg-
mies. It is fuppofed that their prefent name was given to them by the Swedes,
who made the firft and principal conquefl of their country. It is faid to be de-
VoL. II. U rived
J
146 GENERAL REMARKS
The Billiop fuppofcs that the Laplanders were moft: probably the
earlieft inhabitants of Sweden and Norway, and the firfl adven-
turers from Scythia, being driven from the fouthern parts of Scan-
dinavia into thofe dreary defcrts by fubfequent hordes, who over-
ran the diftrids of the well and fouth, feeking for room and fub-
fiftence. Not only their manners and cuftoms at this day dif-
cover pretty manifeft traces of their Scythian origin, but thofe
difmal regions lying towards the Frozen Ocean, from the Ruffian
province of Kamtfchatka, are flill inhabited by a race of men
fimilar to the Laplanders, and who,^ like them, may have been
forced back into the rude retreats of freedom, long before national
records and credible hiftory.
rived from one of thefe three Swedifh words: lapp, which flgnifies a wolf ; or
lappa, which denotes a bat; or laftly, lapa, which means to run. There can be
no abfurdity in adopting, on the hypothefis of the Bifliop of Drontheim and
.SchefFer, either of thefe etymologies. The clothing of the Laplanders juftifies
the firft, their ill-favourednefs the fecond, and their wandering manner of life the
laft.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 147
SECTION III.
Of the Language of the LapLinders.
^ I ^HE language of the Laplanders appears to be wholly dillinft
and feparate from all others, excepting only the Finnifli, to
which it has fome analog}' ; not, however, fo great as that which
the Danifh bears to the German. It is diftinguiflied by certain
peculiarities refembling the idiom of the Hebrew. But the mif-
fionary does not take it upon him for that reafon to fay that it is
derived from the Hebrew. He refers to the preface of a Lap-
landifla grammar, which he had publiflied, for an account of cer-
tain words and exprcffions, which feem to indicate a derivation
from the Greek and Latin. But he admits that it does not hence
follow that thofe words are adually Greek and Latin, transferred
to Lapland : they may, notwithftanding that fimilarity, belong to
the genuine and native language of the Laplanders ; and although
the Lapponic contains many terms nearly fimilar to the Finnifli
and Daniili, or, more properly fpeaking, the Norwegian or Norfk,
yet it differs fo much from thofe languages in the general elocu-
tion and mode of expreffion, that if, in pronouncing certain words,
the Laplander, Finlander and Dane were each of them to ufe his
-own vernacular dialed, they would not underftand one another.
U 2 The
148 ^ ■ GENERAL REMARKS
The Lapponic tongue has been Co little attended to by foreign-
ers, the miffionary obferves, that it is hardly underflood even by
the Norwegians bordering on Lapland ; although it is not lefs
worthy of being reduced to fixed grammatical rules, and rendered
intelligible to other nations, than the other living languages of
Europe. It is particularly recommended by an elegant brevity,
which exprefles in one word what in other languages would re-
quire feveral. For example, mjy little loaf is exprefled by the fmgle
Lapponic word lachatzhiani. This term lacbatzhiam is analyfed
in the following manner : it is made up of the noun fubftantive
lathe, a cake or loaf; the diminutive atz; and the pronoun am,
which fignifies mine. The Lapponic admits of a commutation of
confonants, namely of the labials B and P, B and M, F and V ;
the gutturals G and K ; the dentals S and Z ; the linguals D and
N, D and T ; the labial letter F, and the guttural K, are alfo ex-
changed with one another: the letters ^7/, joined together in the
fame fyllable, are pronounced with an afpiration.
The miffionary, in farther illuftration of the genius and charac-
ter of the Lapponic, goes at very confiderable length through all the
parts of fpeech of which it is compofed, viz. noun, pronoun, verb,
prepofition, and the particle. There are but few of my readers,
I prefume, who would thank me for following that author
through the whole ofhls diflertations on the elements of the Lap-
landifh tongue ; and I fliall content myfelf with the ftatement of
a few particulars that probably will not be unacceptable.
The firfl ten numbers in the Laplandifli table of notation are —
- ,2 Auft
•
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
Auft
-
1
Gut
6
Gouft
-
2
Zhieczhia
7
Golm
-
3
Kautze -
8
Nielja
-
4
Autzc
9
Vit
-
5
Laage
10
149
It appears to be a fingularity In the language of Lapland, that
the names of fluids, metals, minerals, grain, herbs and fruits, are
all of them expreffed only in the plural number. It abounds in
diminutives, which contribute to give that language both grace
and energy of expreflion, - .
When a Laplander addrcffes a Norwegian peafant, he fays,
pajfevelje ! that is, my companion ! my friend ! If a woman, paf-
feoodbha ! that is, holy fifter !
The' rein-deer, held in the highcft eftimation, and which are
fuppofed to be of the greateft value among the Laplanders, arc
fuch as are caftrated. Thefe excel the others both in fize and
fatnefs, and are of extreme utility and advantage to their owners.
Hence fuch phrafes as this : fpeaking of any one whom they think
worthy of the very higheft degree ofpraife, they fliy, Jiartzejctz,
or, he or Jlie is ahfolutcly a caftrated r^'ui-dccr. When a certain
Laplandifli and ruftic officer of the peace, or magiftrate, in the
Norflc called Icrmand, of the name of John Porfanger, was in an
elevated and boafting mood, he was wont to exclaim, Hecrge
zli'iouga, I am a ca/irated rehi-deer.
Of a pregnant woman near her time, they commonly fay, NjJJ'on
la: kieiz'iemheii in, that is, being interpreted literally. The woman
is
150- GENERAL REMARKS
h in the days of wJpeSiio7i , which means, that ftie is in a condition
that both requires her to be careful of hcrfelf, and to be attended
to by others.
On the Aibjeft of proverbs or adages, in which the language is
by no means rich, I mud not omit to mention one common
among the Norwegian ruflics of Finmark. When they would
give the fmcereft teftimony of commiferation and grief at any
misfortune or calamity, be the condition of the fufFcrer ever io
diftinguifhed or exalted, they exclaim, Bei/iejiakkftr, that is, Poor
heaji, an expreffion which conveys to them the livelieft fenie of
compaffion and forrow.
SECTION
■CONCERNING LAPLAND.
SECTION IV.
Of the exterior Appearance and hodlly Confitutioji of the Laplanders
— Their Habits and Mode of Life — Their religions and fnora/
Chamber.
•
ry^HE children of the Laplanders are remarkably fat and chubby,
-*- which appears not only in their fiiccs, but other parts of their
bodies. This difpofition to increafe in flefli, however, is lefs per-
ceptible as they grow up. The Laplander is of a fwarthv and
dark complexion, his hair is black and fliort, his mouth wide,
and his checks hollow, with a chin fomewhat long and pointed :
his eyes are weak and watery, which in fomc degree proceeds
from the conflant fmoke he endures whilll: at home, in his tent
or hut ; and may likewife be attributed to the fnows which, dur-
ing winter, arc conftantly driving in his face, whilll: he is abroad
and engaged in hunting upon the mountains, vvhich afford him
no objc(5l to fix his eyes upon but what is glaring with whitenefs.
That this weaknefs of his eyes proceeds from thefe caufes, and
efpecially the latter, is highly probable, from the circumftance that
a man often lofes his fight for feveral days after his return from
hunting. - •
The Laplanders have been reprefented by fome authors as being
overgrown
152 GENERAL REMARKS
o^■ergrown with fliaggy hair, hke wild beafts. Others have givcu
them but one eye : but thefe are fables which thofe authors feem
to have borrowed from Herodotus * and Pliny, and in no way ap-
plicable either to the Laplanders, or any race of people upon the
face of the earth. Others again have afTerted, with a greater ap-
pearance of truth and juftice, that they had from nature an ofFen-
five fmell. It mull indeed be acknowledged, that there is a cer-
tain unfavoury ranknefs which attends the Laplander, more than
is commonly found with the inhabitants of other countries; but
this is not fo much to be imputed to his natural temperament as
to his mode of life, dwelling as he does in a hut or tent, in the
mldil of a conllant fmoke, and clothed in a drefs which has im-
bibed quantities of dirt, greafe, and train oil.
* The origin of this ftory of people overgrown with hair, who had but one
eye, like the Cyclops, is as old or older than the time when Herodotus wrote his
hiflory. He fpeaks of certain Cyclops called Anmafpi, inhabiting the northern
parts, who waged perpetual war with dragons or griffins, in pofleffioii of mines of
gold. The notion of thefe Cyclops is fuppofed to have arifen from the interpre-
tation of the Scythian word anmafpos, which ilgnifies one eye. It has been
thought by fonie that the Anmafpi were a Tartar nation, into whofe country tlie
Cliinefe (whofe enfign is a dragon or griffin) made frequent inroads for the pur-
pofe of feeking for gold, which they carried away with them. As to the pecu-
liarity of the natives of Lapponia in refpeft to hairinefs, it has been fuppofed to
allude to their wearing furs in the winter for an outer garment. Herodotus like-
wife fpeaks of men who, at particular feafons, were changed into wolves. This
certainly had no other foundation than in the depraved fancies or impofitions of
forcercrs, who pretend to a power of transforming themfelves into wolves, and
perhaps, to carry on the deception, difguifed themfelves in the fkins of thofe ani-
mals. This belief has remained to later ages, and has left its name behind it,
being called werewolf, by the Germans wdhrwclf, and by the French loup garou.
The
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 153
The Laplanders are for the moil part fliort in flaturc, but thcv
poflefs a tolerable fhare of bodily flrength. They are certainly a
very hardy race of people, and are able to undergo great labour,
and actually fupport thcmfelves under the extraordinary fevcrity of
their climate with a wonderful degree of patience and fortitude.
In proof of this our miffionary mentions the inftancc of a woman
who croiTed mountains of ice and fnow in the month of De-
cember, five days after her delivery of a child, in order to attend
the prayers of what is commonly called churching. The moun-
tain Laplanders, and thofe of the fea-coaft, or the maritime Lap-
landers, are equally objeds of admiration hi this refped:, that they
are able to breathe amidft the fufFocating fmoke of their tents and
huts, when the only aperture by which the fmoke can pafs is
clofed, in order to keep out the weather ; and as it has been ob-
ferved that the Laplanders are by nature and from habit able to
endure great hardfliips, and fuftain exceffive labour with patience,
fo it has been long fuice remarked, that the moft fimple me-
dicaments, which elfcwhere are little eflcemed, have fufficient
efficacy to reftore them to health, unlefs their diforders are of a
very violent nature. This truth is eftabliflied by long experience,
and feems as if Providence, in compenfation for their Inability to
procure extraordinary affiftance, permitted the fame eftedls to be
produced by the moft common means. Theyfeta high value on
fpiccs, and no prefent is more acceptable to a Laplander than that
which either confifts of tobacco, pepper, ginger, and the like, let
the quantity be ever fo fmall.
Vol. II. , X They
154 GENERAL REMARKS
They pofTefs a degree of agility which is really wonderful, and
their bodies are fupple and pliant beyond conception. It is fur-
prifing what a number of them are able to flow themfelves within
a fpace which we fliould not imagine w^ould hold half or one third
of that quantity. They will fit in the clofefi: contad: with each
other, their bodies fupported by their heels, or their entire weight
bearing upon the toes. The American Indians, or favages as they
are termed, ufe the fame poflure, and the ingenious hiflorical
painter, who has reprefented the treaty of the great Penn with the
Indians at the fettlement of that flourifliing colony which now
bears his name, has not omitted to embelllfli his pidlure with the
figure of an Indian in this extraordinary attitude.
The Laplanders defcend the fteep fides of a mountain, when
covered with fnow and ice, with incredible velocity. They make
ufe of a particular kind of fnow llioe, differing greatly from that
which bears the fame name in the northern parts of America : it
is a piece of wood of fome length, curved before, and turning up-
wards behind, to the middle of which the foot is faftened ; and
whereas the fnow flioe is calculated for fccurity to prevent a man
from finking into the fnow, this wooden flioe or fkate, called in
the Danlfli tongue Jk'ie, anfwers the purpofe both of fecurity and
expedition. Accordingly the Laplander flldes along with fuch
fvviftnefs, that the air whllfllcs in his ears, and his hair becomes
ereft with the motion ; and yet fo dexterous is he in the manage-
ment of his body, that be his impulfe ever fo violent, he can take
up his cap, if he chances to let it fall, or any thing elfe that hap-
pens
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 155
pens to lie in his way, without flopping his courfc. The children,
as foon as they are able to walk, climb up the fides of the moun-
tains, and exercife themfelvcs in the ufe of thele fkatcs.
When they travel with their rcin-decr, the celerity of their
pace can only be conceived when fcen : they drive with equal
expedition up the top of mountains and down them, infomuch,
that the vibration of the reins upon the backs of the rein-deer is
fcarcely perceptible to the eye. The Laplanders on the coaft are
exceedingly fkilful in the management of their boats. Our good
mifiionary fuppofes this extraordinary agility of the Laplanders to
proceed in a great meafure from the train-oil, which from their
birth conftitutes a principal part of their food. But the fa(fl is,
that from their infancy they are praclifed in feats of adlivity and
bodily exertion : they learn to afcend the mountains, to carry heavy
loads of timber, to hunt the wild, and to follow the tame rein-
deer for confiderable dlftances. In this manner they alfo become
inured to fuffering every degree of heat and cold with patience.
It is chiefly by the exercife of hunting that they are rendered
fvvift of foot, and their agility is favoured by the fmallnefs of their
ftature. They are content with little, and have minds incapable
of being affc(fl:ed by thofe paffions, which prey upon and deftroy
the bodies of a great part of mankind. They fleep equally on
both fides,* and do not accufiom themfeves to retire to reft be-
* In utramvis dormlunt aurcm, nee plumis Indormire moUibus magn't ajlimant, are
the words of the Birtiop of Drontheim, from whom this particular is borrowed.
It is to be obferved, that in Germany, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, it is
ulual to fleep on one feather-bed, and to have another over it inftead of blankets
X 2 a"d
156 . GENERAL REMARKS
twixt two feather-beds, as their more civlHfed neighbours. Their
avocations do not difturb the natural flow of their animal fpirit,
nor do they weaken their body by the labours of the mind : it
muft of neceffity follow, that they are ftrong, healthy, and adive.
Some of the Laplanders are very expert in carving in wood or
horn, though they ufe no other tool than a common knife ; with
this they make many little utenfils, fuch as cups, fpoons, &c. as
will be more fully explained in a fubfequent fed:ion. Their
fledges are of their own conftruftion, and fo artificially put toge-
ther, that not a drop of wet can penetrate them. The women
are very fkilful in ornamenting belts with tinfel wire, and fome
of them, like the men, excel in carving upon wood or horn. Thefe
people are very dexterous in the purfuits of the chafe, as will be
fhewn hereafter. Their only weapons were formerly bows and
arrows ; but they now make ufe of fire-arms, and are become
good markfmen.
The miflionary records, as a principal virtue of the natives of
Lapland, their great attention to the duties of religion, and their
ferious devotion when affembled at divine fervice. He fpeaks
of the patience with which they fit bareheaded in the fevered
frofts, for three hours together, to hear the word of God delivered
to them under tents, which are by no means fufficiently fecured
agalnft the current of an extreme cold air. It appears, that at
and quilt ; and thefe two feather-beds are moft commonly of the fineft and foftefl
down. Some phyficians recommend fleeping on the right fide, or right ear ; the
good bifhop feems, however, to think, tliat to fleep cafualiy on either ear is the
moil conducive to health.
the
CONCERNING Li\PLAND. 157
the commencement, and during the earher part of the laft ccn-'
tury, the Laplanders were immerfcd in the darknefs of paganifm,
and without the leaft tincfture of letters. It was Frederick the
Fourth, king of Denmark, who afcendcd the throne in lOlQ,
that firft began to introduce the light of the gofpel amongfl them.
For this purpofe he eftabliftied a religious miffion, which has been
continued by his fon, Chriftian the Sixth, Frederick the Fifth his
grandfon, and Chriftian the Seventh, the prefent fovcreign, his
great grandfon. They are now, as Mr. Leems tells us, well in-
ftrudled in the Chriftian religion, and have the New Teftamcnt
in their own tongue. The miffionary mentions with rapture the
names of fome Laplanders who could repeat by rote the whole
catechifm, and large portions of the gofpel, with a part of the
pfalms, both in the Lapland and Danifh tongues ; particularly a
venerable old man of feventy years of age, who was able to recite
a great part of the catechifm, though he never knew a letter iu
his life, nor had ever committed any thing to memory before.
This inflance of the power of memory does not appear at all in-
credible. The Arabs, and other paftoral tribes, who are in the
habit of amufing their leifure by telling and liflening to tales,
will remember them though very long, and rehearfe them with
great fidelity, after one hearing. It is conjectured by Julius Ca^flir,
that one of the chief reafons why the ancient Druids did not com-
mit their inftrudions to writing was, that their pupils might im-
prefs them better on their memories. It was the opinion of So-
crates, as appears from the Ph^do of Plato, that knowledge was
more
158 ■ GENERAL REMARKS ■
more cafily gained, and longer retained when delivered by word
,ol mouth, than when communicated in writing. It would fecm
that the car is lefs diftra6l:ed than the eye ; that the intenfenefs of
the mind is greater in heariiig than in feeing. The miffionary
adds his fervent wifli, that his fellow-labourers in this vineyard of
divine truth, would qualify themfelves for the work, by acquiring
a thorough knowledge of the Lapland tongue, fo as to preach
and pray in it to the Laplanders, as not many of the men have
a knowledge of the Danifli language, further than the ufe of a
few words and phrafes, which occur in the courfe of traffic ;
and of the women, not one is the leafl: acquainted with it.
The Laplanders hold the miffionaries fent amongft them in the
greateft efteem, and fliew them much refpe6t. They falute them
with great reverence whenever they meet them, and give them
precedence upon all occafions. They make them frequent pre-
fents of what are reckoned in Lapland peculiar dainties, fuch as
frozen rein-deer's milk, with the tongue and marrow of that ani-
mal. They are very attentive to keeping holy the fabbath-day ;
they abftain from curfuig and fwearing, which are common vices
among the inhabitants of Norway, and they lead a religious and
moral life. Whoredom and adultery are fms rarely committed ;
and the crime of theft is little or not at all known amongft them ;
fo that locks or bolts, for the fecurity of property in Lapland, are
entirely unneccffary. Norway fwarms with beggars, but begging
is unknown amongft the Laplanders. If any one, from age or
infirmity, fliould chance to be in want, he finds his necefTaries
7 amply
CONCERNING LAPLAND. i
59
amply and inftantly fupplicd, and charity,appears unfolicitcd with
open hands. The miffionary, however, admits, that the Lap-
landers are not entirely exempt from t-'^ofe vices which ever pre-
vail more or lels amongfl mankind in ' ftatc of fociety. They
cannot refift the temptation of '■' ...y, and yield to the allure-
ments of avarice. They will get drunk, like the men of other
countries, when ftrong liquor comes in their way ; and cannot
avoid cheating, like other dealers, when they can do it without
danger of deted:ion. The fkins of the rein- deer arc more or Icfs
valuable, according to the feafon in which they are killed. If the
animal be flain in the fpring, his hide is found perforated by an
infed: which buries Itfelf in it, and lays there its eggs ; but It is
otherwife with the rein- deer killed in the winter. To defraud
the purchafer by trying to obtain the fame price for a defedive
fkin as for a perfecft one, the Laplander artfully clofes up the
holes in the ikm ; and, in order to impofe upon the credulous
trader, will not fcruple to warrant it free from defecT:, and aflcrt
that the beaft was killed in autumn ; though he well knows the
cafe to be quite the rcverfc ; that the fkin is full of holes, and the
deer was killed in fpring, or the worft feafon.
SFXTION
i6o GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION V.
Of the Drefs of the Lapla7iders, both Male and Female.
OOME writers have affirmed, that the Laplanders wear drefles
^-^ ornamented with gold and fUver ; others again have as con-
fidently afferted, that their clothes are made with the fkins of
feals and bears, and fliaped in a manner to give them the appear-
ance of walking in facks. But thefe accounts are not to be re-
garded, and arc as foreign to the truth, as that of a writer, who
declares the w'omcn in Lapland make ufe of veils wove of the
fmews and entrails of wild animals.
Mr. Leems begins his account of this matter with defcribing
the drefs of the man : on his head he wears a cap of a conical
fliape, refembling that of a fugar-loaf Thefe caps are generally
made of red kerfey cloth, and formed of four pieces, broader at
bottom than at the top, where they meet in a point : betwixt
the joinings of the four pieces a ftripe of yellow kerfey is fewed,
marking the divifions ; and to the top of the cap is fixed a toflel
of fhreds of different coloured cloth. The lower part of the cap
has a border of otter's Ikin ; but the Ruffian Laplander trims his
in a more expenfive manner, with ermine.
Sometimes the border of thefe caps extends to fome length be-
fore
CONCERNING LAPLAND. i6i
fore and behind, and ends in a point ; and a cap thus fliaped they
call in their own language n'nidiie kappcrah, which means a cap
with a nofe. The mifllonary fays, he faw once a cap which be-
longed to a poor Laplander, and was made of a falmon's fkin ;
it was white, and had fquare divifions, which were vifible where
the fcales had dropped from the fkin.
They wear a fort of riding-hood, called by them rivok, which
they ufe in hunting, or in attending the tame rein-deer whilft
feeding. This hood has only a fmall opening to look through, is
clofe fewed up before, and when it is put on the head covers the
breaft and fliouldcrs : in front there appears a flap, which is called
zhia/bme-raff.
The men in Lapland very rarely wear any covering about their
necks, or whenever they make ufe of fomething like it, it confifts
of a narrow piece of cloth, which only goes once round ; fo that
their throats are always expofed naked, or nearly fo, to the fe ve-
rity of the weather.
The tunick, or clofe garment, worn by the Laplander, is called
a fork, and is made of fheep's iTcin with the wool on, the woolly
fide being inwards: it has a high collar, made ftiffwith kerfey,
or other cloth, neatly worked with different coloured threads, and
extending a little way down the bofom. As this tunick at the fame
time ferves for a fliirt, it has no opening but where it covers the
breaft ; and it is more or lefs ornamented, according to the con-
dition and fancy of the wearer, with cloth in like manner as the
collar, and bordered with otter's fkin. On the left fidcj in front,
Vol. II. y - is
1 62 - GENERAL REMAKKS
is.fewed a narrow ftripe, or border of cloth or fur ; and on the right,
efpecially on the woman's tunick, fmall filver knobs gilt : the
cuffs of the fleeve are likewife covered with a border of kerfey, or
other cloth, edged with otter's fkin : a border of the like kind
with that round the breaft and cuffs of the fleeve is fewed about
the bottom ; and, as the woolly fide of the fkin is turned inwards,
the wool from within is feen hanging below the border. This
garment, thus fully defcrlbed, is worn by the Laplander next his
Ikin, and, as has been already obfcrved, inftead of a fliirt.
The upper coat ufed by the men is made of kerfey, or fome
fuch coarfe cloth ; or otherwife of the fkin of the rein- deer, either
old or young, of a grey colour. This part of the drefs is called
by the Laplanders l^afte, and is provided, like the tunick, with an
iipright fliffened collar, extending to the chin, and furrounding
the neck. This collar is worked with threads of different colours,
in a very neat manner. The coat, as the tunick, is open only at
the breaft, and bound like it with kerfev, or fome other fort of
cloth of various colours. On each flioulder is a kind of band or
epaulette, cut in different forms, and of the fame ftuff. The
lower extremity of this coat is worked in figures with various co-
loured threads. This border, or fringe, is called in the Lapland
tongue hijkiildalk. To tie the collar clofe about the neck, a run-
ning ftring is ufed. The collar, the opening at the breaft, and
the fhoulder-band, are all formed of flips of various coloured
cloths, and worked with threads of different hues : the cuffs of
the fleeve are ornamented in the fame manner; the bottom
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 163
of the coat has Ukewifc a border extenduig round it, and of a
different colour ; for example, if the coat be of red kerfcy, the
border is yellow, green, or white. The Laplander has no pocket
to his upper coat, but infi:ead thereof carries a little bag, hang-
ing over his breaft, in which he puts his implements for lighting
a fire, which he is never without, and other things of conftant
ufe ; and this bag he calls his inufak-gicrdo.
The cold in this part of the world, during the winter, is moft
intenfe. A fingle inftance of it will be fufHclent to illullrate this,
namely, that the lakes and rivers are generally frozen to the thick-
nefs of two Danifli ells and an half. It muft, however, be re-
marked, that when there is much fnow upon the ground, the
froft does not penetrate fo deep. It is on account of this extra-
ordinary degree of cold, that the Laplanders are under the nccef-
fity of covering their bodies with furs and rough fkins of different
animals. The upper coat, made of the fkin of a full grown rein-
deer, is called by the natives paejk. But the fkin of the female is
generally preferred for this purpofc, and worn with the hairy fide
turned outwards, which gives the coat a rugged and uncouth ap-
pearance. Thcfe fur garments are not left open at the breaft, but
are made intire. Round the neck is a border of fkin with the
hair on, called the. paejk-lok. Two thongs of the rein-deer hide,
with toffels of fnreds of different coloured cloth, ferve to bring the
coat clofe to the fliouldcrs. This coat has likewife a hisrh ftiff
collar, made of the fame fkin, with the hair on. The ufe of this
upper coat is as a defence from rain ; and if it be worn, as it
y 2 often
i64 . GENERAL REMARKS
often is, at fea, and chance to be wetted with fait water, the Lap-
lander, immediately on coming on Ihore, rolls himfelf in the fnow,
to prevent the coat from being damaged by the llilt-\%ater.
The mountain Laplanders, by way of protection againft the fe-
verity of the weather, conflantly wear about their necks, whilil:
they travel, the fliin of a fox's cub ; obfervmg always to let the
tail reft on one flioulder. When the Swedifh merchants make a
journey over the mountains, they tie a marten's fkin about their
necks for the fame purpofe, and, to ornament it, have pieces of
filver fixed " in thofe holes where eyes did once inhabit." An up-
per coat, made of the llcin of the fawn of the rein-deer, is called
by the Laplanders moedda ; the fnape is the fame as that made
from the lliin of the full grown one ; but it has a border round
the fleeves, and is bound at bottom with a fringe of black dog's
fkin. The fur coats which the Lapland women prepare for fale
to the richer part of their countrymen, are made of the fkins of
young rein-deer of a grey colour, and have the opening at the
breaft covered with a border of otter's fkin. The lower extremity
has trimming all round of black dog's fkin. From the bottom
upwards, on each fide, is a piece of iTcin, cut in the fhape of a
wedge, fewcd upon the coat. It is to be obferved, that all the
borders of the breaft and neck, with the other parts of the coat,
■which are of cloth, arc wrought with tinfel wire in various figures,
according to the tafte of the purchafers.
The men fometlmcs wear tanned leather gloves, which they
call rappakak ; but moft commonly they ufe gloves made from
. . the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 165
the fkins of the fawns of the rchi-dccr, the fur fide outwards;
and in order to keep out the cold more cffedbiall\', hned withui-
fide with Cyprus grafs. The women make a better fort of gloves
for fale, w hich are worn by Laplanders of diftindiion : thefe have
the part covering the hand formed from the ll-cin of the black fox,
or rein-deer's foot, with the fur on the outfide : thefe gloves reach
over the wrifl, and fome way up the arm ; the upper part of the
glove, which touches the arm, is made of cloth curioufly wrought
with tinfel wire, and trimmed with otter's iTvin. Many Laplan-
ders, male as well as female, wear copper bracelets about the
wrift, which they fancy have the virtue of preferving them from
pains in their limbs.
The men do not ufe (lockings, but inflead of them a fort of
pantaloons, which clofely fit the thighs and legs. They are made
cither of kerfey or other coarfe cloth, or of tanned leather, and
fometimes of the fkin of the rein-deer's legs. Thofe made of
kerfey or other cloth, have a patch of fkin fewed on them at
the knee, to render them more lafting ; the others, of tanned
leather, are ca\\e.(^jjjiekak, and are chiefly intended for the water.
Some of lliin and leather, that is, the fore part leather, and the
hind part fkin, are called kamas bufack : thefe arc commonly ufed
on land, and worn over the pantaloons of kerfey or coarfe cloth.
The fhoes of the Laplanders have hut one fule, which is fome-
times taken from the fkin of the rein-deer's head ; the upper-
leathers and the an -le-piece are from the legs of the fame anin^al.
This fort of Ihoe is much ufed by the mountain Laplanders, and
8 called
•j6^ general remarks
called gallolak. The hair is left upon the fkin, and worn on the
outfide of the flioe, which would render it flippery to walk with,
efpecially on the ice, unlefs the people had the precaution to finge
the hair, and thus by giving it a more uneven furface, make it
fufceptible of friction. This is the more neceffary for children,
who would otherwife meet with many falls and accidents. There
are fliocs which have foles of fealfkin, and the upper-leather of
fome thinner fort, either tanned or untanned. This kind offhoe
is chiefly worn by thofe who are much on the water. The Lap-
lander makes ufe neither of buckle or latchet, but faftens his fhoes
with a thong twilled round his ancle. The better to preferve his
feet from the cold, he fills his fhoes with ftraw or ruflies. As his
pantaloons do not reach down to his heels, his toot is confequently
put into the flioe naked. The ftraw and ruflies arc therefore care-
fully difpofed withinfide the fhoe, and at night taken out to dry,
that they may be fit for ufe the next morning ; and when this
lining will ferve no longer, a frefli one is fought for.
The Lapland women make a kind of boot for fale, the fole of
which, as well as the upper-leather, with the heel-pieces, are com-
pofed of the hide of the rein-deer's legs, with the hair outwards.
The other parts, fuch as the inner fole, the legs, and the knee-
tops, are of cloth, the latter being neatly worked with tinfel wire.
Thefe boots are faftened above the knee with a ftrap, from which
hangs a toflel made of flireds of cloth. The toe of this fort of
boot, which is called by the Laplanders yljc/io^rt/-, ends in a fliarp
point.
The
CONCERNING L2\PLAND. 167
The men wear leathern belts ornamented with tin, to the
fore part of which is faftencd a pouch, which holds tobacco for
chewing. To the hinder part of the belt fcvcral thongs of leather
are attached, ornamented w ith tin balls, keys, and other things.
A knife in a fl^eath is alfo fluck in the belt, and a number of
rings are hanging down by thongs of leather. The women make
belts for fale, worked on the outfide with tin, and lined with
fkins.
Wc have thus fully defcribed the drefs of the male Laplander,
and fliali now proceed with that of the female.
The Lapland women wear caps, fometimes of woollen, but
oftener made of linen. The woollen caps are of kerfey or other
cloth, and are put together w ith two pieces, one of which covers
the hinder part of the head and neck, the other the temple and
forehead. Along the feams of thefe tw-o pieces a ftripe of yellow
coloured cloth is fewed : the lower part of the can is trimmed
•with yellow or white tinfel, or fome other border of a fhowy
nature; or wanting that, one of cloth of a different colour fup-
plies its place : it has likewife a tinfel ribband, of a gold or filver
colour. The miffionary fpeaks of a poor Lapland w oman, who
had her cap tied with a bandeau cf the fkin of a falmon of a v\hite
colour ; but which in other refpedls refemblcd thofe before de-
fcribed. The linen caps differ from thofe of woollen, among
other things, bv being bordered with more elegant ffuffs.
Before the Lapland woman puts on her cap, flie adjufts a round
knob or button, which is on the top of it, and, having put the cap
on
i68 . GENERAL REMARKS
on her head, tafiens it to the faid button, or under it, with a
flrina;.
The women wear likewife on a journey, or when they are
watching their rein-deer by night, a covering which confifts of
two parts ; the firft of which is of one piece, and protects the
head, neck, and flioulders, inclofing hkewife the chin : it is made
of red, blue, or green kerfey, bound at bottom with a ftripe of
cloth of a different colour ; over this, to wrap up their heads more
completely, they put a high cap, fliaped like a crown, broader on
the top, and leffening towards the opening without, and on the
left fide it has a band of a different coloured cloth, or fometimes
inftead of this a ftrap covered with tinfel, having a ball of filver
gilt fixed to the end.
The tunick and upper garment worn by the wom.en, differ little
from thofe of the men : the tunick is made of flieep's fkin, with
the woolly part turned inwards, and varies from that of the men
only in being gathered in plaits behind and before, but longer
and clofer on the breaft, and coming down a little lower than
the hips, whereas thofe of the men defcend below the knees. This
tunick, as that of the men, ferves inftead of a linen fhift. The
upper or outer garment is made of kerfey, and is diftinguiflied
) trom that worn by the men in thefe few particulars only : the
woman s extends below the knees, the man's comes no lower than
the thigh ; the latter has a high ftiff collar, the former has no
collar at all. The woman's ftieep fkin tunick, however, has a high
fliffened collar which covers the neck and ears, and appears above
the
CONCERNING LAPI-AND. 169
the outer garment of cloth, which, as has juft been mentioned, is
without any collar. The women have another kind of upper gar-
ment, called harve, made of kerfey or coarfe cloth, but different
from the other already fpoken of, as this comes no lower than the
middle, is gathered round, and lies in folds about the body. The
upper coat of rein-deer's fkin, or its fawn, refembles that of the ,
men in every refpedl, except that thofe which the men wear
come down to the heels, whereas the women's fcarcely reach lower
than the knees.
The gloves of the Lapland women are alike in fliape to thofe
of the men ; fome of them are white, made of the legs of the rein-
deer's fkin, the hair outwards, ornamented with flips of cloth of
various j;olours, fewed on them. The pantaloons of the women,
like thofe of the men, ferve inftead of flockings, and are made of
kerfey or other cloth, or of fkins from the rein-deer's legs, but
very feldom of tanned leather. The women's flioes are always
made of the Ikin of the rein-deer's legs, with upper-leathers of the
fame; thofe of the mountains preferring fkins of a white colour.
The belts or girdles of the women are of leather or cloth, em-
bellifhed with plates of tin : from the girdle hangs down a fmaller
belt, ornamented with brafs, which has a number of different little
things, and among others, brafs rings hanging from it : the better
fort of women have girdles bedecked in like manner with iilver.
The women wear over their fhoulders kerchiefs, or mantles of
Ruffian linen, or of cotton, fometimes white, and fometimes
printed in colours : they alfo make ufe of narrow aprons of Ruffia
Vol. II, Z • linen
170 GENERAL REMARKS
linen or cotton, white or printed ; the white always furnlflied with
a fringe or border.
The women of Ruffian Lapland wear filver ear-rings, and fome-
times filver collars, which go round their necks, and are conneded
with the rings in their ears. There is fo fmall a difference betwixt
the male and female drefs in Lapland, that the good miffionary
tells us, he has frequently known man and wife change habits
through miftake, the man putting on the woman's, and the wo-
man the man's clothes.
The dreffes fo fully defcribed, of cloth, furs, and fkins, the
gloves, fhoes, and other articles, it mull be obferved, are the fole
labour of the women, the men in Lapland undertaking the oeco-
nomy of the houfe, in cooking, and other matters, which in
other countries are performed by women ; differing in this from
the reft of the world. Several utenfils of wood are alfo made by
the women ; and the beft fculptures of Lapland are the workman-
Ihip of the female fex.
SECTION
CONCERNING LiVTLAND. 171
SECTION VI.
Of the Habitations of the Laplanders, and their domeftic Ar-
rangements.
r I ^HE r.uts of the maritime Laplanders, or thofe who dwell on
-^ the coaft, are called lawne giiatte, and are conftrudled with
four pofls bent together in an oval form, with a fmall door, and
an opening in the roof to let out the fmoke. The roof of thefe
huts is formed with the bark of the birch-tree and fbds of earth.
To enter them it is necefl'ary to ftoop almoft double, and within
there is no poffibility of flanding ere(fl, except perhaps in the
centre, where the fire is made, which is exa(3;ly under the before-
mentioned fmoke hole. To retire even a ftep from the fire-place
towards the fide of the hut is impofllble, unlefs the body is quite
bent down. The family, however, are all feated round the fides,
not minding the inconvenience of ftooping. The whole inner
fpace is covered with boughs of trees. In the middle of the hut
two piles of ftones are raifed in a rude manner at an equal dif-
tance, parallel to each other, in a direction from the door to the
oppofite end of the hut : this is for the fire-place ; at the four ex-
treme corners of which are fixed as many pofls : thefe pofl:s ferve
to fupport a frame, on which projecting pieces of wood are faffc-
Z 2 ened.
1^2 GENERAL REMARKS
ened, in the fhapc of hooks or cranes, for bearing the pot or kettle
fufpended over the fire.
Before the Laplanders retire to reft, they are careful to put out
the fire, and after the hut is clear of fmoke within, they climb up
the roof, and place a board over the hole.
It has been already obferved, that the hut is divided in the centre
by two piles of ftones, in order to form a fire-place. This divifion
is extended towards the door and the further end of the hut, by
means of four logs of birch wood of a due length being added.
This preferves two vacancies in the centre, befides that for the
fire. That towards the door is ufed as a receptacle for fire wood ;
that at the further end beyond the fire is the place where the
kettles are kept, and the copper veffel holding the fnow water to
drink. There then remain two fpaces towards the fides of the hut
on the right and on the left of the fire-place : thefe are each di-
vided into three partitions, by logs of wood ; the firft next the
door, reaching to where the fire-place begins ; the fecond occu-
pying the extent of the fire-place ; and the third taking up that
next to the feparation where the pots and kettles are placed,
Thefe partitions in the hut may be ftyled the bed-chambers ; for
in them the family fleep in the order which fhall immediately be
explained.
Each of thefe compartments or divifions has the fkin of a rein-
deer lor a carpet, that no uneafmefs may be experienced in fitting
or lying down, from the branches which have been fpread upon
the ground of the hut. When the Lapland houfehold retire to
2 reft.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. ,73
reft, the following is the order of the beds : if only one family oc-
cupies the hut, the hufband and wife take up one fide with its
three divifions ; the other fide is then affigned to the children and
fervants. If, on the other hand, the children and fcrvants are
obliged to ileep on the fame fide with the maflcr and miftrefs, the
order of the beds is in that cafe thus arranged : the hufband and
wife take the end fartheft from the door, which is efleemed the
moft honourable, and called the iofshio-ktaejli'ie ; the children fleep
in the middle partition, or, as they name it, gajk-loido, next the
fire-place ; and the fervants occupy the divifion near the entrance,
or the urfa-WaeJli'ie.
If a miffionary happen to take up his night's lodging with them,
the bcfl or principal bed-chamber, the hoj'shio-hiaejjiie, is given up
to him, and the man and wife quit the hut, and this is the cafe as
long as he chufes to ftay with them.
When two families occupy the fame hut, the fire, the vacancy
towards the door wherein is placed the wood, and the fjaace oppo-
fite to it at the further end for the pots and kettles are in common
to both families: yet it very rarely happens that any difpute or
quarrel arifes betwixt them ; and thefe fimple people fet an ex-
ample of cordiality and brotherly love to the inhabitants ot cities
and towns, who often confider the Laplanders as very little fupe-
rior to favagcs.
Their fheep and cattle have a flail afTigned them near the en-
trance of the hut, to which they repair by the fame door as the
reft of the family, of which they conftitute a part not of the Icafl
confideration. '
174 GENERAL REMARKS '
Near their huts the maritime Laplanders conftruft a receptacle
for hay, to which purpofe they fix three rows of pofts in the
ground, refembling the three walls of a houfe, with beams crofTing
them at a certain height from the ground. Upon thcfe tranfverfe
beams they place their hay, which they prefs down as clofcly as
pofTible, but principally work it round the upright pofls, the tops
of which remain vifible. Thus there are left under the hay two
empty fpaces, divided, as has been mentioned, by the rows of pofts,
and termed, in the language of the country, a'lke or lap. In this
manner the Laplanders preferve their hay through the winter,
rain fcarcely ever falling during that fcafon to do it damage, and
tlic fnows affcdling it but little on the outfide. In the fpaces be-
neath this hayftack the Laplanders hang their coats, and ftore
their rein-deer fkins, their pots, and other houfehold ftufF. When
their ftock of hay is conAnned, they are under the neceffity, in
order to procure provender, to cut down trees, and ftrip them of
their bark, which they offer to their cattle ; they likewife give
them fmall branches to eat. It fometimes happens that the froft
proves fo fcvere, as to congeal the fnow, and prevent the rtin-
dcer from fcraping it away with then* tcct, and thus hinder them
from coming at the mcfs, which is their chief food: in this cal'e
the Laplanders cut down large firs and others trees, in order to
take off the lichens and mofl'es growing on them. This occafions
a great deftruCiion and wafte of timber. They feed their cattle
likewife with roots, and fometimes prepare a particular mefs on
which their cows feed greedily. This is compofed of the head,
bones,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 175
bones and entrails of fifli boiled, together •with ftraw, and the
fucus, or fca-wced. The Norwegian peafants, or Normans as
they are called, who inhabit the eaftcrn parts of Finmark, fodder
their cows not only with hay, but with the fame mixture, or with
fuch lichens as are given to the rein-deer.
The winter tent of the mountain Laplander differs but little
from the hut of the maritime Laplander juft now defcribed, ex-
cept that the fame contrivance which the latter ufes for boiling
his pot is not employed by the former. The mountain Laplander,
in clearing away the fnow to form a ground floor for his tent, raifes
"with it a circular wall, which furrounds the habitation. The poles
•which fupport the woollen covering of his tent, are fixed in this
■v\'all of fnow, and a fmall beam, croffing the top of the principal
poles, fupports the iron pot-hook to which his kettle is hung.
The woollen cloth which covers the tent is in two pieces, joined
together by wooden fkewers. The door of the tent is cut in the
fhape of a pyramid, out of woollen fluff, extended by wooden
ftretchers. Thefe flretchers frame the door, which is faflened to
the tent only by a thong of leather at the top or point of the py-
ramid. The fides of the door are joined to fome flender poles or
flicks, which conflitute the two door pofls. One fide of the door
is faflened to either of thefe two pofls, according as the v\ ind
blows, fo as to prevent any opening to the interior of the tent,
which might occafion an increafc of fmoke. By this means the
tent can be entered only on one fide, and on that alone which is
oppofite to the wind.
The
176 GENERAL REMARKS )
The mountain Laplander ufiaally pitches his tent in the woods,
and goes out every day, except Sundays and holidays, in fearch of
fuel. Having cut down a tree, he drags it hlmfclf to the door of
•*; his tent, where he lops off the branches, and prepares the larger
limbs for his fire, having erected a machine for that purpofe, con-
fifting of a tranfverfe beam laid upon two upright pofls. When
« he prepares to light his fire, he colledls the ignited fubftances in a
piece of birch bark, covering them with dry leaves and final!
twigs. The wood he afterwards puts on, being for the mofl part
green and incrufted with fnow and ice, as foon as lighted, fends
forth a thick fmoke, which is rendered flill more intolerable by
the unpleafant vapour emitted from the moifl: wood. The whole
tent is for a time involved in a pitchy cloud, and all who remain
in it run the rifk of lofing their eye-fight. As the flame breaks
forth, the fmoke gradually decreafes, but the upper part of the
tent is always filled with it, and if the wind be high, it is driven
back from the aperture intended to let it out. When the moun-
tain Laplander goes to reft, he does not extinguifli his fire, which
ferves the purpofe of a lamp, and affords him as \much light as he
has occafion for. At a little diftance from his tent, the mountain
, Laplander raifes a hovel, by laying a few beams acrofs fome pofts
ftuck in the ground, and covering them with boughs. This ferves
him as a ftore-houfe for his rein-deers' fkins, and fpare utenfils.
The fummer tent of the mountain Laplander refembles, in every
refpedl, that which he ufes in winter, except that the covering of
it is of canvafs cloth, and that it has no fnow wall, the fiiows
being
CONCERNING LAPLAND. i;^
being at that time every where melted. The fmall tent which
the mountain Laplander ufes when he hunts rein-deer, or goes
any long journey, is of coarfe canvafs, and called in his language,
lawo. When he intends ereding it, he clears away the fnow till
he comes to the bare earth, over which he fpreads fmall branches
lopt from the trees near him, leaving a rampart of fnow on every
fide. He then cuts down a fui?icient number of poles, which he
fixes in the fnow, making them meet at the top, binds them to-
gether with a cord, and faftens them round his canvafs covering,
referving an opening for the fmoke. His fire is made on the
flones he collects, and if he wants it for the purpofe of cooking,
as well as warming his frozen limbs, he fixes a pot which he has
brought with him for that purpofe. The maritime Laplander
ufes a tent of a fimilar kind, when he is upon a fea voyage, in his
boat, and happens to be driven on fliore by bad weather. He is
then forced to ha^'e recourfe to fuch an expedient, from the cir-
cumflance of no human habitations being near him.
The mountain and maritime Laplanders make ufe of fmall
fheds as receptacles for provifions and houfchold fluff not in im-
mediate rcqucfl : they arc raifcd on logs of wood a fmall height
from the ground. The maritime Laplander places them near his
hut ; the mountain Laplander in the woods, as is further explained
in a following fecftion, wherein the miflionary treats of their jour-
neys by land. The mountain Laplander digs holes in the earth,
which he calls geJgc-horra : thefe he paves at bottom with flones,
, and herein he ftores the flefh of the rein-deer.
Vol. IL A a Having
178 GENERAL REMARKS
Having fully defcribed the huts and tents of the maritinne and
mountain Laplanders, Mr. Leems proceeds to fpeak of the habi-
tations of the pcafants in Norway and Lapland. Thefe are mean
cottages, the fide walls formed of wood, the roof of turf, fupported on
boards which run longitudinally over the top. Theyarebuiltwithout
chimneys, in this refpedl differing from the huts of other pcafants,
but have a paflage for the fmoke through a number of apertures in
the fide walls, by which the light is likevvife admitted. Their
fire-places are convtrudled with heaps of flones in the form of
ovens. The fire is daily lighted, and the door and holes before-
mentioned left open, that the fmoke may pafs off. The fuel
being fully confumed, the flones which form the oven are found
thoroughly heated, and the door and apertures are clofed, by which
means a fufficient degree of warmth is preferved to laft till the
next day, when the oven is again lighted. Thefe peafants ufe
pieces of the fir-tree inftead of lamps, and pave their huts with
fmooth ftones.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND,
17^
SECTION VII.
Of the Manner in which the Laplanders prepare their Beds — Pre-
caution tifed againji the Mnfqnetoes.
^ I ^HE bed which the maritime Laplander retires to in his hut,
and the mountain Laplander in his tent, is aUke made of
the skins of the rein-deer fpread over the branches of trees, with
which the floor is covered. The Laplander's outer coat ferves as
a pillow, and a prepared fliccp's skin, w ith the woolly fide inwards,
as a blanket, over which is laid a woollen rug. For the winter
the mountain Laplander has a rug, which has a bag within it, into
which he places his feet. Be the cold ever fo intenfe, the moun-
tain Laplander goes into bed naked. The beds are by no other
means feparatcd than by a log of wood on each fide, as has been
already defcribcd. The hufband and wife fleep at the farther end,
the children in the divifion next them, and the fervants neareft the
door, but fo nigh to each other, that the hufband and wife can,
with their hands, reach over to the childrens' bed, and thefe again
to that of the fervants.
In the fummcr feafon the mountain Laplander, being greatly
infefted with gnats, or mufquetoes, has a contrivance to defend
himfelf from their ftings vvhilft in bed, and at the fame time not
A a 2 fuffcr
I So GENERAL REMARKS
luffcr from being too clofely covered. In order to cfftS: this, he
£xes a thong of leather to the poles of his tent over his bed, which
raifes his canvafs quilt to a proper height, but fo that the fides or
edges of it touch the ground : under this covering he creeps, and
palTesthe night fecurely. The fpecies of gnat that is fo trouble -
fomc, is the cu/ex ptpiens of Linnsus : it is called, in the Danifli
language, ijs-myg, and by the Laplanders, zhino'ih. The female
only bites and fucks the blood; but fo difficult is it to guard
agalnft them, that gloves prove no protediion, as they pafs their
ftings through the feams. They are found in fuch fvvarms in the
-woods, during the fummer, that whoever enters them is fure to
have his face inllantly covered, and is fcarcely able to fee his way
before him. A flight fwelling, attended with a difagreeable itch-
ing, immediately follows the pundlure, and this is fucceeded by
fmall white ulcers ; fo that the face of a perfon coming from the
country is fcarcely to be recognifed, and he appears full of blotches.
Whilfl the Laplanders are employed in the woods, on the necef-
fary bufinefs of cutting timber for the fake of the bark, they are
unable to take the refrefliment of their meals ; for their mouths^
as foon as opened, would be filled with thefe infects. If the wind
happen to blow briskly, they difappear for the time ; but no
fooner is the wind laid, than they return with their ufual buz-
zing, and crowd every place. Thefe flies equally infeft the cattle
and rein-deer : when thefe animals return from the woods, they
are found covered with them, and when they are fwept from off*
their backs and fides, their Ikins are red with blood. Smoke is
found
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 4tl
found to keep the infeds at a dlllance ; therefore, while one Lap-
lander is milking, another holds a firebrand over him, which pre-
vents the gnats from approaching, and accordingly the beaft re-
I mains untormented and quiet. The pleafure which is expeded
to be enjoyed during the fummer, after a tedious winter that lafts
from Michaelmas to July, as the good miffionary obfervcs, is en-
tirely marred by thefe troublcfome flics.
SECTION
i82 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION VIII.
Of the Diet of the Laplanders, and their Cookery.
^ I ^HE rein-deer's milk conftltutes a principal part of the Lap-
lander's food, and he has two methods of preparing it, ac-
cording to the feafon. In fummer he boils the milk with forrel,
till it arrives to a confidence : in this manner he preferves it for
ufe during that fliort feafon. In winter the following is his me-
thod of preparation : the milk which he coUefts in autumn till
the beginning of November, from the rein-deer, is put into calTcs,
or whatever vefTels he has, in which it foon turns four, and, as the
cold weather comes on, freezes ; and in this flate it is kept. The
milk collected after this time is mixed with cranberries, and put
into the paunch of the rein-deer, well cleanfed from filth : thus
the milk foon congeals, and it is cut out in flices, together with
the paunch ; to effedl which a hatchet is ufed, for no fmaller in-
ftrument would perform the office of dividing that lump of ice.
It is then feparated into fmall pieces, and eaten throughout the
•winter every day at noon, which is the Laplander's dinner hour.
It mufl be prcfumed, as it is ferved up without being brought to
the fire, that this is ice cream in the greateft perfecfiion : here are
flefh and fruit blended with the richeft butyraccous milk that can
be
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 183
be drawn from any animal ; but notwkhllanding the extraordinary
fatnefs, which may be fuppofed to refilt in a great degree the
etfedl of cold, this preparation, as our good miflionary remarks
with a degree of feeling, as if his teeth ftill chattered whilfl lie
delivered the account, chills and freezes the mouth in a violent
manner whenever it is taken.
The milk which is drawn late in the winter freezes immediate! v
after being drawn. This is put into fmall veffcls made of birch-
wood, and is confidered by the Laplander as fuch an extraordinary
delicacy, that he referves it as the moll: acceptable prefent he can
offer even to a milTionar}-. It is placed before the fire, and eaten
with a fpoon as it is thawed. When put by it is carefully covered
up, becaufe if the cold air get to it afterwards, it turns of a yellow
colour, and becomes rancid.
Cheefe is made from the milk of the rein-deer in the following
manner. The milk has water mixed with it, otherwife, owing
to its extraordinary richnefs, it would not curdle when the rennet
is put in. When a fufficient quantity of water is added to the
milk, it is fet over the fire to be heated, and after this has been
fufficiently done, the rennet is thrown into it ; the whey is foon
feparated from the curd, and the latter is taken out and wrapped
up in a cloth to be prefi~ed ; after which it is moulded in a round
fhape : it is eaten cold, boiled or toaftcd. When held before the
fire, it is found fo fat that it is in danger of burning, and if per-
mitted to do fo will flame like a candle. It is efteemed excellent
to heal chilblains. The rennet ufed is obtained by infufing the
V found
i?4 GENERAL REMARKS
found of the cod-fi(h, or the inteftines of the rein-deer with a quan-
tity of butter milk.
The mountain Laplanders likewife make butter of the rein-
deer's milk ; but as they take in the whole fubftance of the milk,
it is of a white colour, and not fo well tafted or fat as that of the
cream of cow's milk, ufed for that purpofe by the maritime Lap-
lander, who has few rein-deer, and whofe ftock coniifts chiefly of
cows, flieep, and goats. In making their butter the women ufe
their fingers only, ftirring the cream about with them till, as com-
monly exprefled, the butter comes, or till it acquires confiftency.
The mountain Laplander conflantly dines or fups upon venlfon
frefh killed throughout the winter, and flaughters weekly one or
two rein-deer, according to the number of perfons of which his
family confifls. His venifon is cooked in the following manner.
He cuts fmall pieces, which he puts in his pot, without paying any
regard to cleaning them from blood and dirt : he then places the
pot by the fide of the fire, that the fat may be drawn from the
meat by gentle heat. When the meat is nearly done, he fkims
the fat off and puts it by in a lliell, throwing a little fait into it ;
he next takes out the pieces with a wooden fork, and lays them
on a difli, leaving the remaining liquor or broth in the pot. Sup-
per being now ready, the family feat themfelves round this difh of
meat ; and as they eat, each dips the pieces held with the point
of the knife into the (hell which contains the fat that has been
flcimmed off, and now and then fups a ladle fxiW of the broth re-
maining in the pot, which is taken without any mixture of flour
6 or
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 185
or other fcafoning : in this manner they finiQi their repafl. They
have been accufed of eating their venifon raw, but that the mif-
fionary aflures us is never the cale. Befides the flefliy parts of the
rein-deer, the mountain Laplander boils the legs for the fake of
the marrow, which being confidered as highly delicious, is referred
for the miffionary. They likewife cook and eat the entrails,
but never with the meat. The mountain Laplander docs not
even give the bones to his dog, but flews them as long as he can
get any oil from them, for which purpofc he breaks the bones in
frnall pieces. — Count Piumford himfelf could not exercife greater
economy. The lights of the rein-deer he divides among his dogs.
Thefe animals are of very great fervice to him in following the
rein-deer, and fome of the Laphmders have to the number of
eight. They are fed very fparingly ; for, except the lights, when
a rein- deer is killed, they have only a little broth given them in
the morning and at night. The Laplanders not only ftew their
venifon, but often eat it roafled, of which they are particularly
fond. In roaftlng they make ufe of wooden fplts, llicking one
end in the ground, by which means the flefh hangs before the
fire, and remains there until fjfficiently cooked. Bafting meat
with butter is utterly unknown to them.
From what has been faid, it will be concluded that the Lap- '
landers eat their venifon frefh, and are not accuftomed to keep it
by means of fait: indeed, as they never kill deer during the fum-
mer, they have no occafion to avail thcmfelves of this expedient
to prefcrve the venifon fwect during the refl of the year. To
Vol. II. B b vary
186 GENERAL REMARKS
vary his diet, the Laplander fometlmcs fmokes his venifon. To
do this, they have only to make pretty deep incifions in the pieces
that fmoke may enter the meat, and to hang the joints on the top
of the tent, where it is foon cured.
Venifon is the chief food of the inhabitants of the mountains-;
but thofe on the fea coaft have beef and mutton, and both cat the
flefh of bears, wolves, foxes, otters, feals, and in flaort of all ani-
mals but fwine ; pork being to a Laplander an abomination.
The Laplanders who are employed in catching falmon, live
upon that filh fpllt and dried. Dried filli is eaten by them with-
out any preparatory cooking; but before they put it into their
mouth, they dip each piece in train oil. Filli with this kind
of fauce is given to children at the breaft ; and to prepare it for
their tender mouths, the mother firft puts it into her own, and
mafticates it before fhe prefents it to the infant : thus they are ac-
cuftomed to the luxury of train oil from their birth, for fuch
every Laplander efteems it, and confiders its flavour as far fuperior
to that of butter. But it is not true, as has been afferted, that
they take off a pint of train oil at a meal, or that women in la-
bour fwallow a quantity of it in order to eafe their pains.
When their ftock of dried fifli is reduced, they colleft the
heads and bones of fifli which have any thing on them, and thefc,
when roafted before the fire, are put into a kettle with flices of
the blubber of feal, the bones having been previoufly inferted in
the belly of the feal, where they remain fome little time, that
they may be impregnated with the oil. Thefe ingredients are
fuffered
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 187
fuffered to flew fome time in the kettle, and when fuppqfcd to be
fufficiently cooked, are ferved up. To feafon the mefs, a quantity
of oil is refervcd which has been drained from the feal, in which
the morfels are dipped as they are eaten.
They roaft their fifli as well as flefli, and are fond of the cod-
fifla roafted frefli caught. The liver of this and other fifli, bruifed
and mixed with cranberries, is coniidered as a favoury dilh ; and
this, as well as their food in general, which the reader will have
perceived, is of the moft unduous kind, is eaten without bread.
A diet of this defcription, were it propofed, would be rejedted by
phyficians as not conducive to the prefervation of health ; yet the
example of this people making a conftant ufe of fuch food, muil;
prove it perfedlly compatible with it : for the Laplanders enjoy
that bleffing in its utmoft perfedlion ; chronical diforders, dyfen-
teries, fevers, being unknown amongft them. The only epide-
mical dlfeafe that has been remaked is a colick, attended with
Ipafms, which the phyficians fuppofe to proceed from worms ;
but this complaint is rather troublefome than fatal, and does not
invalidate the evidence of their general flate of uninterrupted good
health. - ,
The little ufe they make of bread has been already remarked :
it is, however, to be obfcrved, that they form a cake, which they
bake on the hearth, compofed of flour mixed with water only.
The Laplanders are not without thofe dainties which are meant
rather to tickle and pleafe the palate, than fatisfy the cravings of
hunger. Thefe little preparations of luxury, which are known at
Bb2 the
1 88 . GENERAL REMARKS
the tables of the rich and great in other parts of Europe by tlie
name of the defc-rt, the reader will learn with fome furprife, are
not entirely unknown to thofe fimple people. To gratify their
tafte they peel off the inner bark of the fir-tree and fometimes
eat it frefh, and at other times heighten its flavour by hanging it
up in the fmoke. To render it completely rclifliing, it is con-
ftantly fteeped in their favourite train oil fauce. Of apples, nuts,
and the frviits known in other countries, they have neither the
knowledge or defire to tafte ; but to make amends, they poflefs
the herb angelica, of which they eat the root and leaves, either
raw or boiled in milk : thefe, with the berries that are found
when the fnows are melted, thoroughly ripened by having re-
mained buried during the long winter, ferve to amufe the time
they ufually pafs at table.
But the Laplander's chief luxury is that herb in fuch univerfal
ufe over a great part of the globe, viz. tobacco : this is an enjoy-
ment of which he is fond to a degree of extacy. To obtain the
flavour of it, when not otherwife to be procured, he will even
chew flips of the bag which has held it, or chips from the cafk
in which it has been packed. He takes it either in fubftance by
chewing, or receives its grateful fmoke through a tube. When
he chews tobacco, he will frequently fpit into his hand and regale
his nofe with the faliva which has imbibed the pungent falts of
the herb ; thus at once gratifying the fenfes of fmell and taft:e.
When they are aflembled together at a convivial party, and the
/upply of their favourite herb is deficient, they place themfelves in
• - a circle
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 189
a circle and pafs the pipe from mouth to mouth, fo that every
one receives four or five whiffs in turn, and all are equally grati-
fied with the pleafure of fmoking.
The conftant drink of the maritime and mountain Laplanders
is cold water, procured in winter by diflolving fnow, and this is
their beverage as long as any fnow is to be had ; for this purpofe
a quantity is always {landing in a copper vefTel in their huts or
tents, as has been already mentioned. The mountain Laplander
generally pitches his tent in places where water may be had, and
by cutting through the ice contrives to fupply himfelf.
The reader is now fully acquainted with Lapland cookery, in
which, as has been obferved, the women never interfere. The
hufband performs the office of cook in all its branches, and, as
the difhes are never wafhed, the office of fcuUion is not requifite
in the economy of a Lapland houfehold.
SECTION
I90 . GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION IX.
Houfehold Furniture of the Laplanders.
^ j^HE inventory of the articles which conftitute the Laplan-
-^ ders houfehold furniture is very fliort : he has fufficient to
anfwer his wants, and more than this would prove an incum-
brance. The tent of the mountain Laplander is pitched one day
in one place, and the next day removed to another : it is much
the fame with the maritime Laplander. Chairs, tables, and
things of this kind, which other people require, are to them to-
tally unneceflary, and therefore they have them not. If they
poflefTed them, they would have no where to place them, and
when they removed they mull leave them behind ; for they could
not, without the greateft inconvenience, carry them away. A
few copper vefTels, tin kettles, wooden bowls, and horn fpoons,
form the whole of their kitchen utenfils. To this fcanty and un-
expenfive catalogue, a few of the richeft individuals add two or three
pewter difhes, and fome filver fpoons. The mountain Laplander
has no light in his hut during the night but what the fire affords
him : the maritime Laplander ufes a lamp. A fea fhell holds
the oil, which fupplies the wick made of a kind of rufh, and thus
IS the conftant light of a lamp readily procured from materials
' 8 near
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 191
near at hand. The molt ornamental piece of furniture the Lap-
lander poflefles is his child's cradle : this is a piece of wood pro-
perly fliaped, and hollowed with his own hand. It has a recefs
for the infant's head. Cords are fixed to go round it, and faften
occafionally to the mother's back when fl:e travels ; and a ring
with beads is fijfpended from the upper part, to amufe the child
as it lies on its back with its hands at liberty.
SECTION
192 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION X.
Of the Retn-deer, the Tame as well as the W^Id : Treattfient of tame
Rein-deer, and the various Advantages which the Laplander derives
from them — In this Section mention is made, incidentally, of the
Time about the Winter Sdflice, when the Sun never rifes above the
Horizon ; and about the Summer Soft ice, when it never fets.
'TnHE rutting feafon of the rein- deer begins about the clofe of
-*- autumn, and the female brings forth her fawns in the
fpring of the year. The oldeil and ftrongefl buck, called by the
Laplanders aino-valdo, ufually drives away all the others, and re-
mains the i2;eneral hufband of the herd.
It has been a notion that the hinds, or female deers, can only
bring forth in flormy weather, which commonly prevails about
the feed-time, and which from thence has obtained the name
given it by the Norwegians, of rcin-kalve-rcin, or fawning feafon :
but this, Mr. Leems informes us, is no more than a vulgar pre-
judice ; for thefe animals, he obferves, produce their young indif-
ferently, like all other four-footed beails. Some of the hinds
bear annually ; thefe are called aldo : others named kodno every
other year ; and fome that are denominated fiainal, are barren.
As foon as the female has fawned flie lofes her horns. The fawns
■ % from
CONCERNING LAPLAND. . 193
from their very birth are nimble, and arc foon able to run -with
equal fpeed and keep up with her dams. Every hind knows her
own fawn, let the herd be ever fo numerous.
If the hind be of an afh colour, her fawn at its birth is red, with
a ftripe down the back, and is then called m'leejje.. This colour
grows darker, the red hairs falling off towards autumn, when it is
called zliiaermak. Some rein- deer, when full grown, are white
with afli-coloured fpots : the fawns of a white mother are always
white.
The hinds called by the Norwegiansy??«/^r, exceed the bucks in
fize ; many of them have fine branching horns, and fome few none
at all : the horns grow again as foon as flied ; the new ones ap-
pear at firft like two foft fwellings on the head, of a blackifli co-
lour ; the fkin as they fhoot forth changes to an afh colour, and
peels off when the horns are near dropping. The horns are thick
at the bottom, but thinner as they fpread out, with points like
fingers ; and they are fo branching, that when thefe animals fight
they are often faftened by their antlers, and not able to extricate
themfelves without the affiftance of man. Their haunches are
the fatteft parts ; and thefe are very much fo before the rutting
feafon.
: The rein- deer is much infefted in the fummer by a fly which
creeps up its noftri's, and is on that account called by Linnaeus
ceftrus nafalis : the Laplander's name for it is the trotnpe. The
rein-deer is likewife fubjecfl to a diftemper, which is contagious,
and fo fatal, that it often proves deftrudive to numerous herds :
Vol. IL C c this
194 GENERAI. REMARKS
this difbrder, for which no remedy has yet been dlfcovered, is an
affeAion of the fpleen, called the ni'iltfyge; and as it is looked upon
as totally incurable, the Laplanders kill the deer as foon as they
find fymptoms of infedlion, in order to fave at leaft the fkin.
Mention has already been made of an infeft which renders the
fkin of lefs value by perforating it: this infect is often deflroyed
by applying tar to the animal's back ; and from the fly before-
mentioned, which attacks the noftril, the rein-deer is often relieved
by the fneezing occafioned through irritation. Rein-deer are like-
wife fubjed; to a diforder common to animals having hoofs ; this
is the paronychia, by the inhabitants of Norway called the Mov-
fyge. The females have likevvife fmall eruptions on the udder,
iimilar to that which at prefent is known in England by the name
of cow-pock.
The principal food of the rein-deer in winter, is a fort of white
mofs, called by the natives of Norway quit-mojfe ; its botanical
name is Ucheti rang'iferhius. To come at this mofs the animal is
obliged to dig with its foot under the fnow. It fometimes hap-
pens, although but rarely, that the fnovv is fo frozen that the rein-
deer is not able to get at the ground : were this to be the cafe for
any length of time, there would be great danger of the whole race
of thefe animals being ftarvcd and loffc, to the entire ruin of the
Laplanders : but fo great, fays the mifTionary, has been the kind-
nefs of Providence hitherto, that no fuch event has ever happened,
and perhaps never may.
The rein-deer which are tamed, and conflitutc the chief wealth
. of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 195
of the Laplanders, arc never houfed during the whole year: in
fummer they find plenty of grafs, and in winter they live chiefly
on the white mofs before mentioned. In feme parts of Norway
thefe animals areufed inftead of horfes, and are there kept in flails
during the winter. The rein-deer is particularly fond of man's
urine, and will greedily lick up the fnow whereon it has fallen.
It is likewifc faid that they hunt after a particular kind of mice,
of which they eat the heads only : their drink in winter is col-
leded from the fnow, which they gather as they pafs along when
drawing the fledges.
The greateft enemy of the rein-deer is the wolf, and it requires
the utmofl diligence and clrcumfpeclion of the people to guard
and defend their herds againft the infidious attacks of this invete-
rate and cunning £oc. . They endeavour to affright and keep him
off by means of flakes driven into the earth, having pieces of worn-
out and tattered tunicks and other garments hanging on them :
but it is chiefly during any violent florm that they have occafion
to be mofl \-igllant; for at that time this depredator is on the look-
out for an opportunity to Invade the timorous herd : in the mo-
ment of alarm, every one of the Laplanders houfehold is then put
in motion, fome to look to the rein-deer, whllft others make a loud
noife by beating with flicks againfl a fledge, brought without the
tent for that purpofe : and, indeed, there is a necefTity for the
greatefl precaution on the part of the Laplanders, becaufe the tame
rein-deer is fo fimple an animal, that if not carefully protefted, it
becomes an eafy prey to the wolf. No fooner is that voracious
C c 2 beafl
196 GENERAL REMARKS ' ' . .
beafl difcovercd by the herd, than the filly creatures, Inftead of
running towards the tents, and putting themfelves under the fafe-
guard of men, fly towards the woods, where fome are overtaken
and killed by the wolf, who is obferved to ufe his utmoft endea-
vours to keep betwixt them and the tents when he finds them
feeding at a diftance. In this purfuit the wolf has the advantage
of the rein-deer when they are running down hill, and he is fure
to overtake and feize it : but it is not the fame up hill. If the
wolf catch the rein- deer by the haunch, it often happens that the
deer efcapes ; and when he obtains his prey, it is generally by faf-
tening on its throat, by which means he ftrangles the poor animal
in a fliort time. The miffionary fays, he faw fix at one time lying
on the fnow, killed by wolves who had been driven away on the
alarm being given : upon examination of the carcafes, no wound
appeared to have been infllded, fo dexteroufly had thefe deftrudlive
enemies effected their purpofe. It is obfervable, that the wolf
never devours his prey on the fpot where he kills it, but drags it
away to fome dillance ; and it is further remarked, the miffionary
tells us, that in devouring it, he places the head tow^ards the eail ;
at leaft, he fays, the lls.eletons are always found in the woods placed
in that pofition. I cannot fay that I give entire credit to this re-
port : probably the good miffionary has been mifinformed. Whilft
the wolves are on the hunt for their prey, they appear always to be
accompanied by a number of crows and ravens, and the Laplanders
are commonly apprized of the wolf's approach by the clamour of
thefe birds. It has been noticed, that fuch rein-deer as were faf-
tcned
\
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 197
tened by ropes to a ftake have been fpared, whilft others that were
at liberty have been carried off: this muft be owing to a fear con-
ceived by the wolf at the fight of the animal's tether, or to fome
iimilar caufe ; for the like has not happened, when the deer has
broken loofe and betaken himfclf to flight.
The more readily to know his own deer, each Laplander puts a
particular mark upon thofe belonging to him, which generally con-
fifts of an inciiion in the animal's ear. In order to keep their herd
together and prevent their flraying, the rein-deer are twice driven
out to feed, under proper attendance, and as many times brought
up to the tents every day ; and this method is conftantly followed
during the depth of winter, when the days are fhortefl, and the
nights fixteen hours long.
They who are but little acquainted with the folar Ijflem will
be at no lofs to account for the reafon, why the fiin in that cli-
mate remains for feven weeks together beneath the horizon, and
loft in the lower hemifphere, leaving inftead of a clear day-light,
a twilight only of a few hours. It is not, however, fo dark, but
that when the fky is free from clouds a man may fee to write, or
do any common bufmcfs in the fhorteft days, from ten in the fore-
noon to one o'clock in the afternoon, without the help of a can-
dle : and as during the winter folftice the fun withdraws his light
for fuch a length of time, it may be readily conceived, that the
lefler luminaries, in thofe days that are iliorteft, muft ftiine very
bright, and that tlic moon gives her light by day as well as night.
After the fpace of feven weeks is elapfed, the fun again makes his
appearance.
ipS GENERriL REMARKS
appearance, renewed in fplendour, and to common apprehenfiou
more brilliant. This happens about the firll of April, by which
time the days are fo far lengthened, that the Ihades of an univerfal
nio-ht be2;in to djfappcar : and as the fun ceafes to illuminate the
land for feven weeks in the winter, fo in the fummer folftice he
makes the Laplander amends by appearing above the horizon, and
fliining night and day during the fame fpace of time ; w^herein it
is to be obferved, that the night's fun appears paler and lefs bright
than that of the day.
But to return to our rein-deer — When brought back to the tents
from feeding, thefe animals repofe themfehes, and form a circle
round the tents: while they are in fearch of the mofs which is
their food, they fpread widely over the country ; let the weather
be fair or foul, they are driven out to feed at the regular and ac-
cuftomed time ; and as the hcrdfmen, in order to Ihelter them-
fclves from a fnow-ftorm, fometimes retire behind a hill of fnow,
where they may be overtaken by deep, it often happens that a
wolf carries off one of the herd which has ftraggled to a diftance
from the reft. The office of tending the herds is in general per-
formed by the children and fcrvants ; but when the rein-deer are
the property of a family jufh eftablifhed, without children or fer-
vants, in that cafe the wife takes the charge upon herfelf ; and if
flie chance to have a young child, which Ihe fuckles, flae takes the
child, in the cradle before defcribed, with her, and follows the
herd, however inclement the weather may be. In driving the rein-
deer, the dogs which the Laplanders keep, and train for this pur-
• ' pofe.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 199
pofe, are found of the greateft ufe ; and fo well are thc)' broken- in,
that they obey the fiighteft fignal : this feems to be communicated
with as much celerity by the dogs to the rein-deer, which, though
ever fo widely difperfed, foon colled: themfelvcs in a body. In the
winter, when the herd is returned to the tent, and laid down to
reft, the Laplander, or his wife, goes out and counts the number,
in order to afcertain if any be miffing, and become the prey of the
wolt. The Laplanders feldom fail in difcovering when the herd
has fuftained a lofs of the kind, although it would appear no eafy
tafk when the number is very confiderable, which is novv^ and then
the cafe ; for fome Laplanders are faid to poffefs from one to two
thoufand head of rein- deer.
It has been ftated, that it is a rule with the mountain Laplan-
der to drive his herd of rein-deer, by turns, twice to pafture, and
twice home to his tent in the courfe of a day. In the fummcr,
however, the gelt rein-deer, and the hinds, or females, are fuffered
to range the woods without a herdfman. In this ieafon, likewifc,
the hinds are for a certain time allowed to fuckle their fawns ;
after which they are driven into an inclofure made with branches
of trees, at fome fmall diftance from the tents, where the women,
whofe peculiar office it is, befmear the dugs of the hinds with
dung, in order that when they are fet at liberty again, the fawns
may not fuck : after a proper time, the hinds are driven into the
fame inclofure, when their dugs are found diftendcd, and are
drained of their milk, being firft cleanfed from the foil. But thcfe
animals do not readily fuffer themfelvcs to be milked, nor until a
2 . rope
2 00 GENERAL REMARKS
rope Is thrown over their horns to fallen them. Although a rein-
deer does not give more milk in common than a flie-goat, yet,
from the numerous herds kept by the Laplanders, they find no
want of milk, cheefe, and butter.
They fix yokes about the necks of fuch of their rein-deer as are
particularly addided to ftraggling from the herd. The ropes they
have are made from feal-fkin, as are the reins ufed for the fledges.
The Laplander, in performing the operation of gelding upon
the rein-deer, makes no incilion with a knife, but employs his
teeth for that purpofe, bruifing the animal's tefticles by biting
them, but without inflldling any outward wound. The caftrated
deer have different names according to their ages ; one of two
years old is called vareek, of three years voveers, of four goddodas,
of five hio'iflus-harerge, of fix makan : after they are feven years old
they have no frefli name, but are llyled 7iamo7ta-Iapek, that is to
fay, aged, or paft the full age or name. The rein-deer, after that
operation is fuccefsfully performed, increafes in fize and flefli be-
yond the other males, and becomes of great value to his owner ;
infomuch, that any thing valuable is faid to be worth a. gelt rein-
deer ; and it is efteemcd the greateft compliment that one Lap-
lander can pay to another, to tell him he has as great a regard for
him as for a rein-deer gelding.
When the Laplander is about to kill a rein- deer, he firft faflens
him to a poft with a rope, and then ftabs him in the neck with a
knife, which he withdraws from the wound ; the animal then
ftlrs a few fteps and falls: after it has lain about a quarter of an
hour,
\
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 201
hour, the fkin is flripped from the carcafe : the wound is made fo
dexteroufly, that no blood iiTues from it, but is found in the infide,
whence it is carefully taken out and inclofcd within the paunch
that has been cleanfed and preferved for ufc. The hide is after-
wards ftretched out with fticks proper for the purpofe, and care-
fully dried : the fkin of the legs is firfl taken off, and afterwards
ftufFed, that it may dry more expcditioufly.
If a mountain Laplander happen to be reduced to a fmall ftock
of rein-deer, he quits the mountains with his family for the fea-
fide, and betakes himfelf to fifliing, leaving the few deer he pof-
fefles in the charge of fome other perfon.
From what has been faid in the former part of this fedion, the
reader will eafdy recoiled that the Laplander's (lock of rein-deer
is tame, and bred under his own eye. It fbmetimes happens dur-
ing the rutting fcafon, in autumn, that a buck of the wild breed
mixes with the tame herd : if he chance to efcape the bullets of
the Laplander, who ufes his utmofl endeavour to Ihoot him, and
impregnate a female rein-deer, the fawn, which is the produce of
this irregular conjun&on, refembles neither fire nor dam ; it is a
mongrel creature, lefs than the wild rein-deer, and larger than the
tame ; for in general the wild breed are the largeft of the two.
This mule rein- deer is called by the Laplanders a haevrek.
Vol. II. D d SECTION
2-oa GENERAL REMARKS'
SECTION xr..
Of the Mode of haniejpng the Rein-Deer, and the different Sledges
that are nfed by the Laplatiders — The Manner of Travelling with
Rein-Deer and Sledges,
A
O UCH of the Laplanders as are rich make ufe of gelt rein-deer
^-^ for their fledges; they who are lefs wealthy content them-
felves with a fledge drawn by a hind, or female. It requires great
pains to break thefe animals to the harnefs ; and fome are never
to be taught at all, whllft others are brought to it by perfeverance,
and after a length of time.
The gear, or harnefs of the rein-deer, is called by the Laplan-
ders baggie. They ufe only a rein or thong for guiding the deer,
which, like a halter for horfes, is faftened to the head of the
beaft, whilft the other end is held in the hand, being fixed by a
loop to the right thumb. Over the neck of the animal is put a
broad collar, made of untanned rein-deer skin, to which a rope
is fattened of thongs cut from feal-skin, or the hide of an ox, and
twifted together: this rope pafTes under the belly, betwixt the
fore and hind legs, and is made faft to the fledge ; the rope is
covered with a foft skin, that it may not gall the animal's legs.
Another
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 203
Another collar is fometimes put on by way of ornament, although
the rope before-mentioned may alfo be faftened to it : this collar
is made of kerfey cloth, and embelliflied with tinfel, having a ball
hanging from it at the bottom.
A broad girth furrounds the body of the rein-deer, and is called
by the Laplanders aagotas. That part of the girth which is under
the belly is of leather, the other, covering the back and fides, of
kerfey, ornamented with tinfel, and lined with iLin: but this
girth is not in general ufe, though it certainly appears to be of
fome iervice, inafmuch as it has an opening for the rope before-
mentioned to pafs through, and by that means caufes the fledge
to proceed with ftcadincfs ; whereas the cord being faflened to the
neck collar only, admits of fliaking, and unfbeady motion out of
the ftraight line, as the animal bounds from fide to fide in the ve-
locity and violence of his progrefs. This entire harnefs, befides
other trappings which are only ufed occafionally, and not-neceifary
to be here fpecified, is the work of the Lapland women.
The Hedge is made exadlly in the fliape of a boat, having a flat
ftern. It has a keel and thwarts (to fpeak the language of boat-
building), and the fide planks have their ends faflened with
w-ooden pegs. The fledge is caulked within, fo that no water
can enter through the fides. The rope by which the fledge is
drawn is fixed to the head-poft. The Laplanders have four
different kinds of fledges. One called giet-kierres, that is to fay,
the portable fledge, is mofl: commonly ufed : this is entirely
open fjom head to ftern, and fo light that it may be taken up and
D d 2 carried
204 GENERAL REMARKS
carried in the arms : it is fo fliort, that a Laplander, fitting in the
Hern, touches the head with his feet, its width juft admitting of
room for his legs and thighs clofcd together, and fo low that
with Iris hands he can fcoop the fnow on either fide of him. The
fecond kind of fledge, or the raido-kierres, anfwers the purpofe of
a cart, and is calculated to tranfport goods. It exceeds the giet-
kierres in length, breadth and depth, and is without a deck, like
the other ; but in order to keep out the fnow, when loaded, it is
covered over with fkins, which are faftened to the fides by means
of the twifted finews of the rein-deer, for w hich purpofe loops of
leather are placed there. The third fort of fledge, called piilke, is
likewife employed as a travelling carriage : it is payed on the out-
fide with pitch, and differs from the firfl; kind only in having a
feal-fkin fixed to the head, which covers the legs and knees of the
pafl^enger. To this feal-lkin is joined a rug, which fpreads over
his lap, and defends him from the fnow: this likewife is fafl:ened
by leather loops fixed to the fides, fo that only the upper part of
the body of the traveller is uncovered, who is befides feated on
fkins placed in the bottom, as in the fledge called giet-kierres.
The fourth fpecies of fledge, denominated lok-kierres, is likewife
payed on the outfide with pitch, and ferves for tranfporting provi-
fions : it is larger than the pulke and giet-kierres, and has a con-
vex deck over it from head to flern : from the flrern there is a pro-
jefting bolt, by which they raife the hatch when any thing is to
be drawn out or flowed under the deck. The Laplanders keep
their tents under a wooden covering, called hiUagak, where the
fledges
CONCERNING LiU'LAND. 205
fledges likewife may be lodged which are not in ufc ; in general,
however, they turn them upon the fnow, keel upwards, and in
this pofition they anfwer the purpofe of repofitories for their ve-
nifon.
Before the Laplander enters the fledge, he puts on his gloves,
which have the fur on the outflde ; afterwards he places himfelf
in it, taking the rein, or halter, faflened to the rein deer's head,
and tying it about his right thumb. In the mean time the deer
{lands Hill, and the rein hangs on the left fide. When the man
is ready to fet off, he fliakes the rein with violence from fide to
fide, and the animal fprings forward at great fpeed. The driver
dire<Ss the courfe of the deer, which is irregular and ferpcntine,
by pulling the rein on the fide he would have him go. When
the Laplander would travel at the fuUeft fpeed which the rein-
deer is able to make, he places himfelf on his knees, encouraging
him by certain founds or other movements to mend his pace ;
and when he would have him ftop, he fliifts the rein from the
right fide to the left, upon which the animal immediately ftands
ftlll.
It it happen that a rein-deer prove reftiff, or inclined to run
away, the Laplander, if in company with others, gives up his rein
to the driver of the fledge immediately before him, who ties it to
his fledge, and thus the unruly animal is checked in his violent
fpeed by the more fober rein- deer harneflcd to the fledge which
precedes. As, in defcending fteep hills, the fledge is apt to glide
forward, and prefs upon the hinder legs of the animal, a fecond
2 rein-
2o6 ■- GENERAL REMARKS
rein-deer is put to the ftern of the fledge, with a rein or halter
faftened to his horns : this ferves the fame purpofe as the breech-
ing belonging to the harnefs of carriages. It fometimes happens
that the rein-deer which is placed behind the fledge, by moving
forwards, does not anfwer the intention of checking its velocity
in the defcent ; in which cafe, after a trial, the animal is reiefted,
and one found that is better trained and more docile. In going
xiovvn fuch hills as are lefs fl;eep, the driver can, by a dexterous
movement of his body only, regulate the Aiding of his lleage, fb
as to have no occafion to tack a deer to its flern. Where the
defcent is of the fl:eepeft kind, a further fccurity is required,
namely, the rein-deer is taken from the head and made faft to
the ftern of the fledge, when the fledge, gliding down, brings the
animal after it, which ferves as a clieck to the precipitancy of the
motion.
The following is the method taken in tranfportlng baggage in
the fledges before-mentioned, to which the Laplander gives the
name raidoTk'terres : the condudor of the train of fledges feats
himfelf in the firft fledge, to the ftern of which the rein of the
'Tecond fledge is faftened, and in like manner th^ reft follow to the
number of three, four, -or five fledges, connedled with one another,
-each fledge being drawn by its refpeftive rein-deer, and guided in
the proper track by the one immediately preceding : the train is
clofed by a rein-deer not harncfled to any fledge, which is done
•with the intention that in defcending any declivity this rein-deer
onay be able to check and refift the impetuoflty of the fledges in
their
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 207
their progrefs. It feldom happens that the fnow is of fuch depth
that the rein-deer are unable to make their way throus^h it : fomo-
times, however, it is the cafe that the animal fmks in up to his
belly, w hen, as may be fuppofed, the traveller can proceed but
very tardily.
I1
SECTION
2o8 • . GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XII.
Of the Wandering Laplanders, and their Migrations,
nr^HE maritime Laplanders only change their habitations twice
a year, that is to fay, in fpring and autumn : in doing this
they leave their huts (landing until their return ; but this rule is
not obferved by the mountain Laplander, who, like the ancient
Scythians, or the modern Tartars and Arabs, is continually wan-
dering from place to place. In the middle of fummer the moun-
tain Laplanders, with their families and herds, move towards the
fea-coaft, and on the approach of autumn, return to the moun-
tains. Their progrefs is but flow, for they do not proceed above
four Englifli miles each day, and the whole extent of their migra-
tion from the fea-coaft to the borders of Swedifh Lapland, does
not exceed thirty. When arrived there, they may be faid to be
ftationary ; becaufe afterwards they only remove to fhort diftances,
as occafion requires, from one hill or wood to another. As foon
as winter is paffed away, they feek the fea-coaft in the fame
Icifurely manner, until they reach the fpot which they have dcf-
tined lor their fummer refidence.
On the road by which they pafs to the fea-coaft, the mountain
Laplanders conftrud a fort of hovel for the purpofe of depofiting
provifions.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 209
provifions, and fuch neceflaries as they may have occafion for in
their journey. In their return to the mountains in autumn, the
rein-deer being in that feafon particularly fat, they kill as much
venifoa as they judge neceflary, and lay it up in thefe ftore-houfes,
where it remains during the winter, being intended as a fupply for
themfelves and houfehold in the following fpring, when they fhall
be on their progrefs to the coaft.
In fpring and autumn, the earth being freed from its incum-
brance of fnow, the mountain Laplander and his flimily travel on
foot, his tent and the reft of his baggage being conveyed by the
rein-deer; and if his wife have a child at the breaft, the infant is
carried by her in the cradle already defcribed.
When he removes in winter, he takes with him every thing
belonging to his tent, even to the ftones which form his hearth;
and this he does in order that he may meet with neither difap-
pointment nor delay when arrived at the fpot whereon he intends
to pitch his tent. For the brufhwood with which he carpets the
infide of his tent, as well as firewood, he trufts to what he may be
able to procure within a little diftance. To convey his tent in
the winter fealbn, he has a particular fledge, to which he har-
neftcs one of his inferior deer; 10 that it may be well fuppofed his
tent and all that belongs to it, is of no great weight.
The following is the order of the winter march : the hufband
proceeds in the leading fledge, and is followed by the wife in the
fecond, which {he drives herfelf; and if flie give fuck, (he has her
child in the cradle by her fide, carefully wrapped up in furs, with
Vol. II. E e a fmall
210 GENERAL REMARKS
a fmall fpace left open before its mouth to breathe through and
receive the nipple, which, whenever fhe has occafion to put into
the child's mouth, flie is under the neceffity of flopping the
fledge, as fhe is obliged to kneel towards the fide of it, whilft fhe
applies the infant to her breaft. The reft of the family follow
the fledges on foot, having in charge to drive the rein-deer the
way they go.
It muft appear wonderful that the Laplanders are able to travel
in the winter by night as well as day, when the earth prefcnts one
entire lurface or fheet of fnow, and not a ilngle veftige is difco-
verable of human induftry and labour to diredl their way, the
Inow flying about in all directions at the fame time, and almoft
blinding them : yet it is certain, that they are at no difficulty to
find the fpot to which they are bound, and very rarely meet with
any accident. They fix bells to the harnefs of the rein-deer, as
before-mentioned, in order that they may be kept together by
hearing, when they cannot fee one another, after the light of their
fhort day fails them. To guide them in their route, they make
obfervation of the quarter from whence the wind blows, and by
night are direded by the ftars ; and, as the mifiTionary obferves.
Providence and thefe never fail them, fo that he does not remem-
ber more than one fatal accident happening during the ten years
that, as has been already mentioned, he lived amongft them.
The Laplander has always his flint, fteel, and matches ready by
him, which he conftantly carries in a pouch in his bofom, occa-
fionally to light his pipe of tobacco, or a fire, as neceffity requires ;
for
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 2n
for it often happens, that when he Is upon a journey, he is obliged
to flop by the way, either from Its length, or from being prevented
going on by the weather. In fuch a cafe he has his travelHng
tent, which he ereds as fpeedily as poffible, and, lighting a fire,
repofes himfelf until he thinks proper to purfue the remainder of
his journey. Whilft he is thus lodged in his tent, the rein-deer
is made fall to feme tree.
Ee? " - SECTION
SI 2 . GENERAL REMARKS
,,.;: .'■■:, SECTION XIII.
I ' Of the Quadn/peds arid Birds in Laplafid.
'T]"^1NMARK, or Norwegian Lapland, abounds in wild reln-decr ;
but as the Inhabitants breed large numbers of the tame fort,
their whole time is taken up in attending thefe, and they have but
little lelfure to hunt the wild, which are called ^o^^^. When the
Laplander is inclined for the chafe in fummer or autumn, he
takes with him a dog of good fcent, which feldom fails of finding
out a deer in a very fhort time. As foon as the fportfman has
roufed his game, he muzzles the dog that he may not bark and
fright it away. If, on firing, he difcovers that he has only
wounded the deer lllghtly, he unmuzzles the dog and fends him
in purfuit ; and as the rein-deer generally keeps the dog at bay,
the man has an opportunity of firing a fecond time, when he
rarely miffes killing. In autumn, during the rutting feafon, the
Laplander drives fome of his hinds to thofe parts wrhere he ex-
perts to find the wild rein-deer, and upon a buck prefenting him-
felf, he fires till he brings him down. It often happens that two
bucks contefl for the females, when the Laplander, ufing the ad-
vantage of their being engaged, kills one, and fometimes both of
them.
In
CONCERNING LAl^LAND. 213 '
In winter the Laplander is able to hunt the rein-deer by track-
ing them in the fnow. When he is come in fight of his game,
he quits his fledge, and tying his draught rein-deer to a tree, he
purfues the wild deer on foot. In many parts of Lapland the
wild rein-deer is taken by the following devices. When the
fhow has fallen in large quantities, fo as to be paflable only for
the natives in their fnow fhoes, they go in chafe after the wild
rein-deer, which are unable to run fafl, being impeded by the deep
fnow ; and coming up with them they knock them on the head.
Another method is, by fufpending ropes with a running noofe in a
narrow pafs, near the places where the wild rein-deer ufually har-
bour, through \\ hich the deer being driven, it is hampered by the
horns and taken. In fome diflri<3.s of I.,apland the wild rein-deer
has been caught by the following device. A fpace is fenced off in
thofe parts which the deer chiefly frequent, and on a fpot proper
for the purpofe : this fpace has a wide entrance, and encreafes in
width in a circular form, ending with a narrow door or palTage.
The deer driven within this inclofure, in order to avoid his pur-
fliers, betakes himfelf to this narrow pafs, which leads him to
a declivity ; this is clofed upon him at the bottom, and he yields
himfelf a prey, being unable to return, and having his purfuers at
his heels. This method was oftener put in praftice formerly than
of late years, as was that of forcing the deer to take to a lake or
{landing water, w-hen they were knocked on the head, or fhot on
landing. It has been faid that the Lapland women hunt with
their hufbands ; but the miffionary affirms that this afTertion is
?'•' '^lefs.
214 ■ GENERAL REMARKS
groundlefs. It fliould feem, that the Laplander's wife confines
herfelf to the duties of her fituation, and is not ambitious, like
fome of her fex in other countries to the fouth of Lapland, to dif-
tinguifli herfelf by exercifes which are better adapted, and more
properly belong to the men.
' Hares exift in great plenty in Lapland ; they are white in win-
ter, but in fummer of the colour they are ufually found in other
places. The Laplanders fometimes flioot them, but for the moft
part take them in fnares and traps.
Bears are common in Finmark, and different parts of Norway.
The rein-deer, by their fvviftnefs, are able to elude thofe enemies ;
but cows, fheep, and goats frequently become their prey. Befides
flefli, the bears are exceedingly fond of berries, infomuch, that
thefc owe their vernacular name to them ; the fame appellation in
the northern languages fignifying both. Of berries the bear finds
a fufficient fupply during the fummer in the woods ; he eats herbs
and grafs likewife in that feafon ; flelh therefore feems to be eaten
by him through necelTity, and the want of other food in winter.
The Laplanders generally afTail the bears with their rifle guns ;
but if they be not killed or difabled by the firfl fhot, the hunter
(lands in great jeopardy, for the wounded animal will then return
to the attack with the greateft fury. The bear is likewife en-
fnared by flratagems of various kinds. It is a prevailing opinion
in the countries of northern Europe, that this animal fupports
himfelf through the winter by a milky kind of moiflure that
exudes from his fore paws, and which he fucks, uttering at the
fame
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 215
lame time a ftrange kind of growling or murmur. However that
may be, it is pretty certain that the bear feeks his prey, in the
winter feafon, only in the night time. Now it often happens
that the Laplander, in fearch of very different game, by means of
his dogs, difcovers the retreat which the bear has cholen for his
winter quarters. Whenever this is the cafe, the Laplander pre-
pares to flirprife him in his retirement ; and in order to this, cuts
down from the neareft trees a number of branches, which he
plants and interweaves very flrongly about the entrance of his den,
leaving a fpacejull: fufficient for him to thruft his head through:
this done, and being provided with a hatchet, the Laplander fets
about roufuig the fleeping animal, who, provoked with the hun-
ter's temerity and infults, advances with the utmoft rage towards
the opening ; but no fooner does he put his head through the
wicket, which has been made for the purpofe, than the hunter
levels a ftroke with the hatchet, which, if it hit him below the
eyes, to a certainty brings the beall: to the ground. In hunting
both the rein- deer and bears, the Laplanders make great ufe of
their dogs. The greafe of the bear is in much requeft with the
inhabitants as a fovereign cure, in form of an unguent, for pains in
the limbs ; but it is a prevailing opinion w ith them, that it muffc
be applied according to the fex, the male bear's greafe as a remedy
for the man's ailments, and the female's for thofe of the woman's,
and that, when indifcriminately ufed, it can be of no fervice.
Few or no lynxes are feen in Finmark, but wolves are very nu-
merous ; and f jr thefe there are various names in different parts
of
21 6 •'• ■ GENERAL REMARKS
|l of Lapland. Their fur is in general of a yellow or tawny colour,
i] but fome are whitifli. The Laplanders often fhoot the wolves,
7 ' but more frequently catch them in traps : the fkins are dried for
lale.
The fox is an animal of which Finmark produces a variety, and
in the greateft numbers. Some of them are red, others red with
a black crofs ; others quite black, and feme black with long hairs
on the back, which are of a filver colour at their extremities.
The ficins of thefe lafl, well known by the name of the Jilver-
Jiaired fox, are greatly valued all o^'er Europe ; and, by an order
iflued in l652, were referved for his Danifli Majefty's ufe only,
j J - At prefent they are fold to any purchafer, and chiefly to the Ruf-
fian merchants, who import them into their o\^n country, where
they are employed to ornament the drefles of the firft perfbnages
of the Ruffian empire. Befides thefc already fpecified, there are
found white foxes with black ears and feet, having white tails
with black hairs intermixed. The fox is traced in the fnow, and
followed by the Laplander till within gun fliot. Sometimes he
is decoyed to a fpot where flefli has been buried under the fnow
with a view of alluring him ; and while he is eagerly digging
/ . . for the bait which he has fcented, the hunter from his conceal-
ment fires upon him. This kind of chafe is ufually pra6tifed in
the night when the moon fhines, or by the light of the aurora
borealis, which is peculiarly bright in this climate. The fox is
like wife dug ovxt of his earth; and a variety of ftratagems and
devices are called in aid to bring him into the power of his per-
f) fecutors ;
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 217
fecutors ; he fometimcs falls even a vidlm to poifon. It has hap-
pened that the fox, when caught by the leg, has loft a part of it
in the trap, and hobbled away on three legs ; and it is believed
by the Laplanders, that the fox will facrifice the leg by biting it
off, in order thereby to regain his liberty : but is it not more ra-
tional to fuppofe the lofs of leg to be occafioned by the bone being
firft broken by the trap, and then the fradured part of the leg
feparated, by the frequent and violent efforts to extricate himfelf
from the inthralment ? No creature, except man, has been ob-
ferved to make a willing and voluntary facrifice of life or limb.
Martens are found in Finmark. Of thefe there are three kinds
or fpecies ; thejione marten, fo called from his frequenting rocky
places; his fur is fhort and blackifh, and his tail of a yellowifh
colour, with an afh coloured throat. The fecond fpecies is called
the birch-marten, as he frequents the fpots where thofe trees grow ;
his fur is yellow, the tail of a purplifh colour, and the throat
white. The third fort is called, for the like reafon, the^r-mar-
ten, being found amongft the fir-trees ; its fur is yellow, the tail
of a tawny colour, and the throat white. The martens are all
taken in traps.
The^«/o, or glutton, called by the Danes vielfras, and by the
Laplanders ^Vc/^, is to be met with in Finmark ; but it is rather
an uncommon animal. It is furnifhed with fharp teeth and claws,
and although greatly inferior in fize to the rein-deer, is faid to
have frequently killed thofe animals ; but this is effed;ed rather
by furprife than by open afTault, and in the following manner.
Vol. II. F f The
2i8 GENERAL REMARKS
The glutton climbs up a tree, and when he fees a deer within his
reach, he leaps up its back, and faftens himfelf by his teeth and
claws until he has killed the animal. The glutton is charged
with a mod extraordinary pertinacity of appetite, and is faid to
eafe his ftomach when overloaded, by fqueezing out its contents
between two trees ; after which he falls to eating again, and con-
tinues the like pradlice as long as any part of his prey remains un-
eaten. This curious circumftance refpefting the glutton is a tale
that has been often told, and derived from ancient times, yet does
not on that account deferve the more credit. The better and
more probable opinion is, that this animal having been efpied be-
tween two trees, in order, by rubbing againft them, to relieve the
itching of his fkin, it has been fuppofed that he had placed him-
felf there for the purpofe before-mentioned ; and hence this
ftory has taken its rife, and feems to have given name to the
beaft. The glutton is moreover accufed of robbing thofe repofi-
tories we have already defcribed, in which the Laplanders ftore
the venifon intended for their fummer emigration ; but this
is a theft which, unlefs there is evidence that the animal was
caught in the fad, is as chargeable to the wolf or fox, both of
them of great notoriety as dexterous thieves, and confeffedly here
in great numbers. The fkin of the glutton fetches a great price,
and is ufed for muffs and the linings of coats. From the fkin of
the legs, the Lapland women cut out patterns for gloves, which
they work with tinfel after their fafhion.
The beaver is found in feveral parts of Finmark by the fide of
lake?
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 219
lakes and rivers. Wonderful ftories are related of this animal, of
his extraordinary fagacity in conflrudling his habitation for the
winter, which includes lodging and ftore rooms, bcfides a cold
bath ; moreover, that in the conftrudion of this habitation, he
makes ufe of his tail as a trowel, &c. all which are cntertainin<^ in
the perufal, but exceed the utmoft ftretch of probability. As
impoffible is it to believe that the beaver fhould fuffer himfelf to
be drawn about by his fellows, in order to form a carriage for
the conveyance of birchen flicks for building ; a circumflance
which is inferred from the appearance of their fur being much
rubbed, as if this might not be more naturally accounted for, by
fuppofmg their fkins to be thus dripped of their hair from creep-
ing out and in of their haunts. Thefe narrations are to be feen
in the accounts of fbme travellers, but we would rather refer to
them, than give them a place here, as we wifh more to inform
than merely to amufe. The cafiorenm prepared from the beaver
is ufed as a medicine, and is faid to have the power of driving
away the whale from ihips or boats wherein it happens to be
found ; for which purpofc fifiiermen occafionally take it to fea
with them. The Laplanders difpofe of the fkins they take in
RuflTia, the ufe of which in the manufacture of hats, and in lining
garments, is well known. White beavers have been oblerved in
fome parts of Lapland ; but this is merely a variety, or rather a
monftrous production of nature, and to be claiTed with inftanccs
of the like kind in other four-footed animals as well as birds.
The beavers are taken in their lurking places by a trap door, which
«. Ff2 fliuts
220 GENERAL REMARKS
flius up its entrance, and prevents the animal's egrefs. The Lap-
landers give to the beaver the name of majeg.
Otters abound in Finmark, where they are called by the Lap-
landers zhjevres, a name which is applicable to the male as well as
female of this animal. There are three fpecies or varieties of the
otter, as, ift. The fea-otter, called by the Norwegians the Jiav, or
brem-otter ; the fur of this otter is coarfe, and its colour a pale
yellow : thefe are very common, and the price of a fkin is a Danilh
crown. 2d. The bay-otter, called in Norway the Jiord-otter, and
fo named becaufe found in the bays and harbours : this otter is
fmaller, and his fur brighter than the former, and of a blackifh
colour ; a fkin of this otter will produce three Danilh half crowns.
3. The frefti-water-otter, called in Norway vas-otter, having a
white breaft and raven- coloured back. The fkin of this otter is
worth five Danifli half crowns, and often more. The otter ig
eafily tamed, and may be trained to catching fiftx for the benefit
of its mafler ; and notwithftanding it is but a fmall animal itfelf,
it is able to feize and bring a large cod-fifh to fhore. Whilft this
animal is feeding, he conftantly keeps his eyes fhut, which enables
the hunter to approach him until he is within gun-fhot. Befides
fhooting, the Laplander takes the otter in fnares and traps, and
fells the fkins to the Ruflian merchants, who make confiderably
more than cent, per cent, by difpofing of them again in Tartary,
The coaft of Finmark abounds with feals, which are found
there of various fizes : the skins of fome kinds are black, of others
white, and of fome of both colours mixed. There are likewife
fomip
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 221
fomc of that fpecies of animals which arc known by the name
of fea-horfes ftrichechus rofmarus), by the Norwegians called hval-
ros, and by the Laplanders morjk. The fea-horfe has broad nof-
trils, a thick tongue, and large prominent teeth, by which he can
fallen himfelf to the rocks fo as not eafily to be drawn from them :
thefe teeth are, for their fuperior whitenefs, preferred to ivory.
The Laplanders fometimes fhoot them, and often attack them
with clubs when they come on Ihore at the feafon of their breed-
ing. On thefe occafions the males make a ftout refiflance, and
the females will fight in defence of their young till they them-
felves are killed. This animal, as well as the feal, is amphibious,
being as often feen on the rocks and on the beach as in the fea.
Squirrels, to which the Norwegians give the name of i\orn, and
the Laplanders orre, are taken in many parts of Finmark. They
are generally Ihot with blunt arrows from crofs-bows, to preferve
the beauty of their skins. When they are fold, they are put up
in lots of forty fkins each, which produce to the firft feller a crown
or dollar.
The ermine, which is a kind of weazle, breeds in Finmark in
immenfe numbers : to this little animal the Laplanders give the
name of hoitta. The point of its tail is black, and the reft of its
body white. It is taken in traps, and, like the common weafle,
is exceedingly voracious and bold, frequently attacking animals of
a much larger fize than itlelf. When caught in a trap it conftantly
voids its urine, which, if it touch the skin, generally ftains it yel-
low and fpoils it.
fi- In
^z^ GENERAL REMARKS
In Finmark and throughout Norway arc found immenfe num-
bers of mice, called by the Laplanders lemmick, which are the prey
of both birds and beads. It is a received opinion amongft the Lap-
landers, that thefe mice drop down from the clouds ; a falfe no-
tion, which appears to have been conceived from the circumftance
of many having been obferved to fall from on high, no doubt car-
ried off by birds which have been forced to loofe them from their
claws, owing to the vivacity of the little animal's flruggles to ob-
tain its liberty.
Notwithftanding the rigour of this climate, it is obfervable that
animals, wild as well as tame, are here remarkably prolific. The
ewes often bring twins twice a year, and the fhe-goats produce
conftantly two kids, and fometimes three at a birth.
Many birds are to be met with in Lapland, which have not yet
been difcovered elfewhere, hence the epithet Lappotiicus generally
denotes fome rare fpecies peculiar only to that part of the world.
Of this defcription is thtjcolopex Lapponlcus, or the Lapland wood-
cock, which has a beak turned up at the end. It is pretty com-
mon in the bogs of Lapland, though it is not known to inhabit,
or to vifit other countries : yet it is certain, that this bird is only
there during the fummer, and that it migrates to fome other cli-
mate in the winter ; but where that is, remains a problem. The
hiftorical part of ornithology is ftill very imperfect, nor can it be
expefted to advance rapidly, as the information muft be colleded
by degrees, and abftradcd from accidental obfervations. " It would
" be neceflary," fays Buffon, " to follow the birds every where,
" and
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 223
" and to begin with afcertaining the principal circumftances of
" their paflage : to become acquainted with the dircdion they
" take, their reding places, and their abode in every climate ; and
" to obferve them in all thofe diftant quarters. It will therefore
" be the work of time, and require the attention of many fucceed-
" ing ages, to be able to form as accurate notions refpcdling the
" birds, as we are in poffeffion of with regard to the quadrupeds.
" To accomplirti this undertaking, there ought to be conftant
" obfervers in every country where the birds fojourn ; becaufe it is
" impoffible for a traveller, who merely pafles through, to beftow
" fufficient time and care upon every thing that ought to be
" taken into confideration." It is probable that the Lapland
woodcock may, in his journey, keep a direction through unculti-
veted countries, at leaft through fuch as are not inhabited by-
people that might be led to obferve, or be able to communicate,
the hiflory of that bird. It feems highly probable, that in winter
they frequent the milder climate of Chinefe Tartary, or the
fouthern parts of Afiatic Ruffia ; and that in fummer they pafs
into Lapland by the way of Ruffian Tartary, or of Siberia and
Archangel.
The only birds that ftay in Lapland during the winter, are the
Jlr'ix and the tetrao. All the aquatic birds are by the ice compelled
to change their habitation ; and of the others which are feen
there, the greateft number only come for the purpofe of breeding.
And furely in no country could thefe birds enjoy more tranquil-
lity, and carry on their amorous intercourfe with greater peace
1 - and
224 GENERAL REMARKS
and comfort. The infe<fts and wild berries furnifh them with a
plentiful fubfiftence : and as there is no night, which would oblige
their young ones to faft, or check their growth by its chilling cold,
they are able to diveft themfelves of their family cares in a much
fhorter fpace of time than they could do in other diftrids.
1 have, in the courfe of this work, mentioned more than once
the fbngs of the birds, with which the woods of Lapland re-echo.
I have often been aftoniflied to hear in thefe places birds fmg very
charmingly, which I had before confidered as mute, and totally
deprived by nature of all vocal power. The motacilla troch'tlus of
Linnaeus, which comes to Italy about autumn, is in Lombardy
called tui, becaufe its Ihort and abrupt cry bears a refemblance to
this found : but the fame bird may juilly be termed the nightin-
gale of the north. It fettles on the moft lofty branches of the
birch-trees, and makes the air refbund with accents melodious,
bold, and full of harmony. This is likewife the cafe with the etn-
bertza genichs, which has a clear and ftrong voice ; and animates
with its mufical notes the fhades of the alder and willow-trees,
that grow by the fides of the brooks and rivers.
But there is another bird, which more highly deferves our ad-
miration, as it furpaffes all the reft by the beauty of its plumage
and the fweetnefs of its voice : this is the moiac'tlla fuec'tca. It lives
in the bufhes of marfhy places, and particularly likes to perch on
the dwarf-birch, (hetula nana, Linn.); its flight is generally low : it
makes its neft in the mofs, and lays between five and feven eggs,
of a greenifli colour, nearly refembling that of the mofs, with
which
CONCERNING LAI'LAND. 225
which they are furrounded. It feeds on infeds and worms, and I
have fcen feveral of them with caterpillars in their beaks, which
were deftined for their young. The Laplanders call this bird
faddan kieUinen, which fignifies hundred tongues, and expreffes
the nature of its fong ; for this conftantly varies, and is an imi-
tation of the voices of almoft all the other birds. To the beauty
of its notes it joins that of its feathers, which are of a fky blue
colour, bordered about the throat with a black line, and after that
with one of a rufty appearance. It fcems as if nature, charmed
with the melodious excellence of the long, had been willing to
embellifli even the outfide of the organ that produced it, in order
to render her work quite perfeft. No bird I know of would be a
more noble objedt for the captivity of a golden cage, to adorn the
magnificent apartment of fomeof our ladles, who, tired with the
mufic of art, might, even in the midft of a great town, be de-
lighted in lending their ear to the fimple harmony of nature.
Luxury, however, has not yet made war upon this charming fong-
fter, nor fprcad its nets to enfnare him, becaufe he has hitherto
remained unknown ; and fortunate will it be for that beautiful
creature, if it always keep aloof from the habitations of men, and
fhelter himfelf from their fearch by inacceffible retirement. This
bird is beyond comparifon fuperior to the nightingale, and far
better calculated for a companion in a room. The voice of the
nightingale is too fhrill and powerful, and on that account more
agreeable at a dlftance than near : the nightingale, befides, is very
ordinary irl its appearance ; whereas the motadUa Jiiccka fliincs
Vol. II. G g with
226 ' GENERAL REMARKS
with a brilliant plumage, at the fame time that it enchants the
ear by the variety of its notes, which it difplays with fingular art^^
changing and modifying them in a manner quite peculiar to itfelf.
The fea and land birds, which are common in Norway, are all
to be found in Finmark, and in great variety. Of thefe, fome are
flationary and remain all the year, whilfl others, fuppofed to be
migratory, are feen only at particular feafbns. Of the firfl fort are
thofe of the eagle and falcon kind, owls, ravens, daws, partridges,
the eider duck, fea-crow, and ieveral fpecies of water fowl. Among
thofe which appear in fummer, and are not feen after autumn,
are the wild goofc, a fowl called in the Norway tongue bnnis-
loppen, from a prominent piece of flefh on its head, water-hens,-
fnipes, woodcocks, and a great number of fmall birds.
Some of the falcons are intirely white ; thefe, however, are but
rarely feen ; the feathers of their wings and backs are commonly
of a grayifh colour, white under the breaft, with yellow beaks and
legs. This tribe is very numerous ; they breed amongfl: inaccef-
fible rocks, and if taken young are readily trained for the diverfion^
of hawking : accordingly, the hawks bred here are in great requefi:,
and much fought after from Germany and other parts.
White owls have been found in the woods of Finmark : this
bird is larger than the common fpecies of owls, which have white
wings fpotted, with black winking eyes, a fmall head, broad beak,
the feet covered with down. Thefe owls have their nefts in pre-
ci^^'ces of the mountains.
As I am fpcaking of the genus owl fjirixj, I think I fliall gra-
tify
CONCERNING LAPLAND. ^27
tify the curious in the lludy of ornith(;!ogy, by giving them a
figure of thi^ fcarceft ftrix that is any where to be met with. It
is pecuhar to Lapland, and has been called by Mr. Thunbcrg
Strix Liapponka. Its fpecific character is as follows: —
" Str'ix Lapponlca : inauriculata, corpore albido nigro, fafciato,
" maculatoque."
It is larger than the oth, and fmaller than the nySlea of Lin-
naeus. The annexed copper-plate will fupply the place of a dc-
fcription : but it deferves to be noticed, that only two fpecimens
of this bird ftufFed, exift at prefent in Europe, and thefe are both
in Sweden. The one in the mufeum at Upfala, is that from which
my drawing was taken ; Mr. Thunberg having politely allowed
me to convey it to my lodgings, that I might copy a likenefs at
my leifure. Very little is known of the hiftory of this bird. I
have met with it myfelf in Lapland, and even purfued one, but
without fuccefs, as they are extremely iliy, and will not let men
come near them.
Crows breed in prodigious numbers in Finmark, and 111 other
parts of Norway, and take their flight in flocks along the fea
fliorc. Thefe birds, through cold and hunger, become very tame in
winter ; at that feafon they hover about the tents of the Laplan-
ders, and even venture to come within them, and will pick up
every thing within their reach. Befides thefe, the ravens are \^ry
numerous, and found to be bold and deflrudlive, feizing fifli hung
up to dry, and birds taken in fnares, and even attacking fheep, and
plucking out their eyes, or tearing open their bellies.
G g 2 The
S28 • * GENERAL REMARKS
The pie or magpie is to be met with in certain diftridls, but
not in any great quantity : to this bird the inhabitants of Norway
have given the name of tun-fugl, on account of its attachment to
the habitations of mankind. If the pie makes his appearance in
parts where he is not commonly feen, it is thought to be a fign of
the approaching death of fome principal perfon refidlng on the
fpot. ■ ■ ■
Among the pies, there Is one of which the mlffionary Leems
makes no mention, though it claims attention, lince Mr. Thun-
berg feems to be decidedly of opinion, that it is not a variety of the
common pie, but a diftlndl fpecies, only to be found in Lapland.
As it has, as far as I know, never been figured before, I deem it
incumbent upon me to prefent it to the reader. Mr. Thunberg
has named it Corvus Lappon'icus, and defcrlbed it in the following
manner : —
" Char. Spec. Corvus Lapponicus : fordlde albus, capite, collo,
" pedlore, allfque bafi clnereo-fufcls."
" It is found," fays Mr. Thunberg, " in the Tornea Lapmark.
" The general chara<n;erifi:ics of this bird are the fame with
*' thofe of the common pic : it is, however, very wild, and fel-
*' dom fuiFcrs any one to approach it within fliot. It builds its
" neft upon trees, in mountainous or high fituations : it is not every
" year to be feen near houfes ; but when it comes, it generally
" makes its appearance towards the end of autumn, or in the be-
" ginning of winter, accompanied with about four young ones.
** In winter it llievvs itfelf chiefly when the weather is about to
- . y « fet
CONCERNING LAPLAND. * 229
" fet In very feverc, and it fcrves to the peafant as a ilgn, that the
" cold will be intenfe, and the fnow abundant. This happened
" in the year 1 79O, according to Dr. Eklund's * obfervation, who
" had the goodnefs to procure me a fpccimen of this bird, which
" w^as hitherto quite unknown. At firft fight it feems to refem-
" ble the common pic, but it is lefs by one-fourth part, and dif-
" fers from it in its manners and habits. The tail tapers to a
" point, the feathers being of unequal length : the feathers of the
" belly, the upper part and points of the wings, are white ; the
" neck, breafl, the fore part of the wings, the thighs, and the tail,
" of an afli-colour, w'ith this difference, however, that the tail is
" more light above : the beak and the lesrs are black."
There is a peculiar kind of fowl commonly found in the woods
throughout Finmark and all Norway, which feems to be a variety
of the buflard or dotterel. To the male the Norwegians give
the name of fodder, which they pronounce as if written dotter ;
the female they call roey. The male is about the fize of a full-
grown turkey of the largeft breed, and like that fowl he occa-
fionally fpreads his tail and fhakes his wings : his belly has black
and white feathers, his back and wings are of an afh-colour.
The hen is not fo large as the cock ; her wings and body have
feathers of a dufky yellow, with fpots. The flefh of this fowl is
equally efteemed with that of the common bufla'rd.
Partridges are very numerous; they are of two forts, the one
* Dr. Ekiund is a diflinguifhed ornithologift, and particularly converfant with
the Swedifli birds.
. frequenting
i^^o \. ■ GENERAL REMARKS
frequenting the mountains, the other keeping to the plain. In
fummer they are of the colour they are feen clfewhere, but in
winter they have white feathers ; and when they he half covered
with fnow, they are fcarcely dlfcernible from it. Partridges are
taken by the Laplanders in great numbers after the following
manner : a low hedge is made with twigs of the birch-tree, open-
ings being left at fmall dlftances juft large enough for the birds to
creep through. In thefe openings fprings are placed of cows' hair,
with a running noofe ; and the partridges, coming to feed on the
buds of the birchen boughs, and endeavouring to pafs thefe holes,
are taken in the fnare.
Pigeons and doves (called by the natives of Norway ringel due)
are found in many parts of Flnmark, and on the borders of Ruffia,
but they are by no means a common bird. There is a kind ot
plover (cliaradrius) which, in the Danifli language, is called hrok-^
fiigh much admired for the gloffy black of its feathers, and the
delicacy of its flefn. This bird is very common in Denmark, and
frequently found in Flnmark ; it appears early in the fpring, and
is not feen after the fummer is pail:, during which time it makes
its neft, and breeds its young, which have at firfh brown fpotted
feathers that are afterwards replaced by black. Of this bird there
are found fome varieties, which have different names.
Befidcs thefe, there are feveral forts of thruflies, the flefh of
which is thought to be delicate. There are likewlfe woodcocks,
^ fnlpes, fnow birds, linnets, goldfinches, fifkins, and a variety of
.other fmall birds. The cuckoo is found here, but the flarllng,
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 231
the houfe fparrow, and fome other birds common to other coun-
tries, are not to be met with.
The fwan is found amongft the fea-fowls, and taken by the
Laplanders in fnares contrived for the purpofc.
The wild, or, as it is called in Norway, the gray goole, is a yearly
viflter in the fummer feafon, and takes up its refidencc in the
fmaller uninhabited iflands on the fca-coaft, where it breeds : in
autumn it leaves Finmark, and retvirns fouthward, accompanied
by its young. In thefc flights the wild geefc are formed into fo
regular a body, as to appear to be condud:ed by a leader, a fingle
goofe feemingly bringing up the rear. They are obferved to have
particular flages or refting places in their migration, where they
remain for nights, and fometimcs whole days, placing a goofe as
Gentry, to be on the watch, and give an alarm upon the approach
of an enemy. Notwithflanding the extraordinary warinefs of this
fowl, the Laplanders Ihoot great numbers with their pieces, and
take many more by various devices : they are often furprifed in
their retreats, when, owing to their having flied their wing fea-
thers, they are unable to fly, and become an eafy prey to their
purfuers, who hunt them yearly during the time they remain in
this ftate. There is a variety of this fowl called the Finmark
goofe, which differs both in fizc and colour from the wild fort."
Of ducks there is in Finmark a very great diverfity ; amongft
thefe the moft remarkable is the elder duck, called in the language
of Norway, the edderfugj. Thefe are found in large numbers,
&nd fometimes feen in flocks of a thoufand. Their down feathers
2 are
2:2 GENERAL REMARKS
-o
are valuable, being of a peculiar foftnefs, and much efteemed on
account of their lightnefs and warmth. This bird is eafily taken,
and will not readily quit its nefl on the approach of a man.
The fea-coafts abound with pelicans, cormorants, and other
birds, which breed mofl plentifully in holes of rocks fcarcely ac-
ceffible : the Laplanders, however, contrive to take the eggs of
thefe fowls in confiderable quantities, and oftentimes the birds
themfelves by means of baited hooks faftened to ropes.
I fhall conclude this feftion by giving a lift of the quadrupeds
and birds peculiarly belonging to Lapland and Finland, according
to the fyftem of Linnaeus,
Quadrupeds.
tCa?iis Lagopus ; the white fox, likewife the black, and the one
marked with a crofs upon the back : thefe are generally
confidered as varieties, though fome naturalifls feem in-
clined to dlftinguifli them as fpecies.
Vlverra Lntreola, or Mujiela Lutreola, (by the Pinlanders called T/'-
churij refembles the marten.
Mnjlda Gulo, or IJrJus Guh, the glutton.
Mnjiela Nivaiis, the white weefel.
Uifiis ArSios, the bear.
Cajior Fiber, the beaver.
Mus Lemniis, the Lapland marmot ; in fome years very abundant.
Sc'mrus, the fquirrel.
■Cerviis TaranJus, the rein-deer.
Birds.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 233
Birds.
Fako Ge?itilis : on the mountains of Dalecarlia.
Strix Scand'iaca ; little known.
Str'ix Ulula.
Strix Lappon'ica. New^
Otis Tetrao.
Otis ArStica.
Corvus hifaiijiiis. Very plentiful in Weft Bothnia.
Corvus Lapponicus Thunb. — See the Tranlatlions of the Academy
of Stockholm. . -
Flcus TridaSiylus, the three-toed ■woodpecker, remarkable for
having only three claws, when all the other fpecies of
picus have four. It is rather fcarce in Lapland, but more
common in Norway.
Anas Fnfca,
Anas Nigray
Anas Marila,
Anas Spefiahilis,
Anas Alhifrons, - ^
Anas ErythropjiS',
Anas Hiemalis,
Anas Crecca. Thefe birds alfo come to Stockholm in fpring from
Finland and other parts : but they pafs the fum-
mer m Lapland.
Aka Arnica, and A!ca Alee, are more frequent on the Frozen
Ocean than on the fweet waters of Lapland. I have
killed fome of them near the North Cape.
Vol. II. H h Frocellaria.
234 GENERAL REMARKS
Procellana GlaaaUs.
Pelecamis Oirbo, and Pelecanus Bajpinus, are found in the gulf of
Bothnia.
The Colymhi, Lar'i, and Sterna, are not exadly indigenous in
Lapland.
Larus Glamiis ; lives in the Frozen Ocean.
Plaialea Leucorodia ; feldom found in Lapland.
Ardea Nigra, and Ardea Alba, are faid to be found in Lapland,
■ but are not indigenous.
Scolopax Phaopus.
Scolopax Glottis, the great dark-coloured woodcock, with a very
long beak, the lower half of which is red. It is alfo feen
in other places, but rarely.
Scolopax Fiifca.
Scolopax Lapponica.
Tr'tnga Lob at a.
Tringa Alplna. This fpecies was alfo feen in Scania in the year
1789.
Tr'tnga Pugtiax, the ruff and reeve.
Charadrhis Mor'inclhis, Charadrius Apr'tcarhis, and Charadrius Plu-
vialis. Thcfe, as other birds of paffage, which feed upon
flies and infers, vifit different parts of the world in fpring
and autumn, according to the different climates and the
food they require.
Tetrao Lagopta. In winter it is quite white ; in fummer it rc-
fembles the female of the groufe, except in the tail fea-
thers, which are always black.
Tetrao
CONCERNING L.'O'LAND. 235
Tetrao Bonajia.
Turdus Rofcns ; lives during the fummer in Lapland, where they
fiioot it. It is faid alfo to be found in Egypt, perhaps at
a different fcafon.
Embcrlza iSiiva/is. It wanders fometimes as far as Germany, when
the winter is very fevere.
Frhig'iUa Lulenjis ; difiicult to meet with and to afcertain bv the
defcription of Linnaeus^
Fring'tUa Lappoii'tra,
FrhigiUa Montafia : frequently found in the more fouthern parts
of Lapland, and even in Upland.
MotactUa Sueclca ; by the Laplanders called SadJan KieUinen,
which means " (the bird) of hundred tongues."
H h 2 SECTION
236 GENERAJ- REMARKS
SECTION XIV.
Of the Amphibious Animals, the FiJIies and Fijlieries.
"TF wc would ftridily follow the arrangement of Llnnsus, we
fliould now fpeak of the amphibious animaJs in Lapland, before
w'e come to treat of the fifhes and the fifheries. However the
amphibious tribe is by no means numerous, as it only confifts of
the lacerta pahijiris, and, we may perhaps add, 'dxz petromyzonjlu-
viatilis. The lacerta paluflris is found in feveral other places be-
fides Lapland. There are fo many fabulous accounts of this ani-
mal among the inhabitants of the North, that one may eafily be
mifled by the different ftories that arc related of it ; they, for in-
flance, tell you, that it lives in the water ; that it frequently
bounds up from the water, or the furface of a lake, and fettles on
the branch of a tree ; that there it begins to laugh, or to make a
noife like that of a man's laughing; and fo on. But thefe won-
derful tales would probably vanifli before the enquiring eye of an
attentive obferver. The petromyzon fluviatilis follows in fpring,
when it begins to thaw, the courfe of the rivers, and becomes the
prey of the colymbi, and other water- fowls.
The rivers in Finmark contain great plenty of falmon in the
feafon ; and on the coaft are found cod, hake, ling, haddocks,
whitings.
CONCERNING LAPLAND, 237
whitings, fkate, hoUibut, and a variety of other fifh in abundance.
Thefe are caught and prepared for foreign markets, a traffic
which might be carried on to a more confiderable extent than
what it adlually is, fo as to fupply almoft the whole of Europe.
It is not our intention to enter into a detail of that fubjcft, but
merely to give a concife account of the fifli in thefe feas, and the
methods adopted by the Laplanders for taking them, together
with fome particular circumftances refpeding thefe matters, which
have not been noticed by other travellers.
About Candlemas-day the whales appear in aftonifliing numbers
upon this coaft, not only in the open feas, but alfo in the bays
and harbours, being allured by the purfuit of the cod, herrings,
and other fiflies. Thefe latter endeavour to efcape by approach-
ing clofe to the fliores, where they are taken by the fifliermen in
the greatcft quantities. There are feveral fpecies of the whale ; but
this animal has been fo fullv and fo often defcrlbed, that it will
be unneceflary to fay any thing of it, further than to obferve, that
they arc frequently caft on fliore upon thcfc coafts, when, as is
fuppofed, they have loft the deep water on being wounded by the
harpoons of fiffiers, or by their great enemy the fword-fifh, here-
after to be mentioned, and by unwarily coming too nigh, they
are ftranded and taken by the Laplanders.
Many kinds of fifli belonging to the cetaceous tribe, are found,
in thefe feas. Among them the moft remarkable is the fword-
fifli, an inveterate and declared enemy of the whale. This fifh,
called fometimes thcfea-houmi, docs not differ much in fliape and
■.. fize
238 . GENERAL REMARKS ^
Cze from the grampus, or fmall whale. The weapon, which is
likened to a fword, conflitutcs his back fin ; and with this, and
his Iharp teeth of about a finger's length in both jaws, he attacks
the whale whenever he meets him, and purfues him until he
drives him on lliore or kills him. That fifh does not only engage
the whale fingly, but alfo in company with other fpecies ; fo that
the great tyrant of the deep, to whofe infatiable appetite fuch
numbers of fifla become every moment a facrifice, is not with-
out his enemies, by whom at length thofe vidlmis of his voracious
defjx)tifm are furc to be avenged.
Another cetaceous fifli is here known by the name of fpnuger,
which, in the language of Norway, fignifies a jumper. This name
is given to it becaufe it is obferved to leap frequently out of the
fea w'ith great force, after \\-hich it falls back with a loud noife.
This fifh is near three yards in length, and in winter generally
keeps the main fea ; but in the fummer it often feeks the fliallow
waters of the bays, when, being difcovered by its frequent leaps,
the fifhermen iurround it with nets, to avoid which the fifh throws
itfelf on the beach, and is feized upon without difficulty.
Porpoifcs, to which the Norwegians give the appellation of
n'ljer, are feen in great numbers. The Laplanders fometimes find
them in calm weather fleeping on the furface, and thus Ihoot
them, which they rarely fucceed in when they are rolling in the
water. The Laplanders, as well as the inhabitants of Finmark
and Norway, are exceedmgly fond of the flcfii of the porpoife.
The iliark is found in all feas, but abounds in that of which we
0 are
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 339
are fpeaking : it is called, in the Norwegian tongne, Jlaaek'icerr'nigy
and by the Laplanders, ukkalagges. There are Several fpecies of
fhark, all of which yield a great quantity of oil or blubber. The
Laplanders eat freely of the flefli, which they cut into fteaks and
broil. So voracious is this fifh, that fharks have been taken with
other Iharks of a fmaller fize in their ftomachs, and even with the
hooks, lines and weights which were laid for other fifh, having
fwallowed not only the fifli that were thus caught, but the whole
tackle together with them. , ,
The hollibut, fkatc, turbot, and flounder, are taken in the
Northern Ocean in vaft quantities. The Norwegians call them
by the general name of qvcjta, but the Laplanders have diflin<3:
terms for each. The ikate and flounder fcoured and dried, the
heads, fins and tails being cut off, arc fent into Denmark and
other countries of the North, where they arc eaten in that flate,
and confidered as an agreeable relifli.
The cod-fifli confifl:s of feveral fpecies ; thefe arc found in the
feas of Finmark in great plenty, and in the highefl perfedlion t
accordingly they form a confiderable article of commerce. There
is a fpecies of cod which remains the whole year on that coafli
and which, at certain feafons, is poor and lean. Another fort
fhews itfelf about Chrifhmas, and is at that time very full of roe ;
and a third kind is much cfteemed, which is called torjke, and
known to the Englifh by the fame name, though it is fometimes
written as that is pronounced, viz. tiijk. There is moreover a
fjpecies which, from its Norwegian name mvdde, is called nmd-fjh
by
240 .. GENERAL REMARKS
■ by the Englifli fifhmongcrs, to whom It never comes but in a
pickled ftate. The Laplanders take the cod and torfke by line
and hook only, but in fomc diftridls of Norway they are caught
with nets. They are found on different parts of the coaft at dif-
ferent feafons, but are never known wholly to forfake it ; accord-
ingly the time of fiftiing for them varies with the place. The
. cod and torske, which are taken in the winter, are carefully piled
up as they are caught, in buildings conftrucled for the purpofe,
having their fides open and expofed to the air. Here they re-
main frozen until the following fpring, when the weather be-
coming milder, they are removed to another building of a like
conftru6lion, in which they are prepared for drying. The heads
are cut ofF, the entrails taken out, and the remainder hung up in
the air. Flfli caught in the fpring are immediately conveyed to
the fecond houfe, and dried in the above manner. The fifli thus
cured, from their round and ftifF fliape, receive the names of
rund-jijk, oxjiock-jijk, and are known to us by the laft name, viz.
Jiock-fjh. The cod, torfke, ling, &:c. caught in the fummer feafbn,
on account of the w"armth of the weather, are only to be preferved
by the common methods of curing with fait. The merchants
who purchafe ftock-fifli attend to the brightnefs of the colour, and
obferve that the flefli be not foft and fpongy, both which defeds
are occafioned by the unfavourable ftate of the atmofphere at the
time of exficcation.
Herrings are found in thefe feas in Immenfe profufion, but the
Laplanders have neither nets nor ikill to take them ; accordingly
they
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 241
they arc only ufed by them as bait for fuch filli as they do catch.
Indeed, confiderhig the incredible numbers of fifli in this neigh-
bourhood, it appears wonderful that the filhery is not carried on
with more fpirit and ability ; but there feems the like inattention
here to this fpecics of human induftry, as is obfervable in the
fiflieries on the northern coafts of Great Britain. It may per-
haps be the policy of Denmark rather to promote the falmon and
cod fifheries than that of herrings, and probably the impoffibility
is feen of rivalling the Dutch at foreign markets, who have ob-
tained a preference by their excellent method of curing this fifh.
Befides the fifli juft mentioned, thefe feas furnifli fhurgeon, lam-
preys, flounders (called in Norway jiyiiders), foles, turbot, and
mofl of the firta to be met with on other coafts, befides lobfters,
crabs, prawns, and other fliell-fifli. The lakes are ftored with
pike, perch, trouts, eels, and other frefli water filhes.
Before we clofe our catalogue of Lapland fiflies, we fliould think
ourfelves unpardonable not to notice what has been faid ot a fea-
monfter called the krakc, or, as the word has been ufed in the
plural number, the kraken. This prodigy is fuppofed to be a fifli
that rarely appears on the furface, but has occafionally been feen
by fifliermen who were looking for a proper place to throw their
nets. They were fometimes furprifed on flach occafions at find-
ing, after the firfl: time they threw the lead from their boat, in
order to afcertain the meafure of the water, that the apparent
depth continued to diminifh every time they repeated the expe-
riment ; and imagining that this decrcafc could be only occafioncd
Vol. II. I i by
242 GENERAL REMARKS
by the lead having lighted upon the back of fome immenfely
laige fifli, which mufl be in the adl of rifing to the furface, they
fet themfelves about rowing from the fpot with all poffible hafte ;
and when it happened that they could perceive the fifh upon its
emerging to the furface, it appeared covered with weeds, coral,
and marine plants. There is a tradition in thofe northern coun-
tries, of a Romiih Bifliop landing upon the back of one of thefe
monfters, and celebrating mafs upon it during the time he re-
mained there. Such are fome of the particulars which have
been related refpeding this extraordinary produdlon of nature ;
flories that appear to have been fwellcd out and augmented in the
courfe of narration from one credulous hearer to another, and in
all likelihood had their origin in fome dead whale of extraordinary
bulk being feen floating on the furface, on whofe back had grown
thofe marine plants, and other fubftances which ufually faften to
inert bodies in the feas. This Incident afterwards was increafed
to that of a floating ifland, or fome fea monfter as large as an
ifland, to which at laft they gave the name of the krake. In fliort,
the tale of the kraken is fupported on much the fame ground as
the ftories of ghofls and hobgoblins ; for they too are believed by
many, though no evidence can be produced of any credible pcrfon
that has feen them.
The wives of the maritime Laplanders fliare with their huf-
bands in the employment of filliing, which is not the cafe with
women in general in other parts of Norway. The mountain
Laplanders, when removed in the fummer feafon to the fea coaft,
8 engage
CONCERNING LAPL.VND. 243
engage in that occupation during the tinic they flay. In winter,
when the lakes and rivers arc clofcly bound up with ice, they
contrive, ncverthelefs, to purfue tlic avocation of fifliing ; and
even take confidcrable quantities, by cutting holes in the ice, and
putting their nets through them into the water under the ice.
The Laplanders ufe, for their nets, the bark of the birch-tree
inftcad of cork ; and as they grow no hemp, they form their ropes
and lines of the finews of the rein-deer.
The river Tana takes its rife in the diftant mountains of Lap-
land, runs through Eaft Finmark, and after receiving in its courfe
feveral fmall ftrcams and torrents from the mountains, at length
empties itfelf with a very rapid current into the fea at a bay to
which it gives its name : this river is remarkable for producing
falmon of an extraordinary fize and rich flavour. The falmon
fifliery begins here early in the fpring, and is over at the end of
the fccond week after Midfummer-day.* Large quantities of
falmon are alfo taken in the riven Alten in Weft Finmark : this
river likewife gives name to the bay in which it meets the fea.
* It may not be aniifs to fpecify the genus falmo, as it is found in that country,
according to a communication from my valuable friend Dr. Quenzel. It is as
follows :
Salmo Salar, the common falmon, which goes up the rivers in fummer for the
purpofe of depofiting its fpawn.
Salmo Alplnus is alfo found in the lake of Wennern in Sweden.
Salmo Lavaictus, cMedJik by the Swedes, is caught nt the cataracts when it is at-
tempting to mount up.
Salmo Thymallus : harr in Swedifli. It is alfo to be met with in the rivers of
Westrobothnia and Angcrmania.
Ii2 The
244 GENERAL REMARKS
The fifliery in this river begins about Midfummer, at which time
the falmon are in full pcrfeAion ; after this they are obfcrved to
decreafe in fize and goodnefs. The falmon is caught in wears,
and the fifhcry itfelf put under certain regulations. The following
is the method of pickling thefe fifli : they are firft fplit, carefully
waflied, and falted with the beft fait that can be procured ; and
after lying fome little time in the fait, they are packed up In
oaken cafks and preffed down with weights. The cafk is kept
open, and brine daily poured in until the fifh is fov;nd perfedly
cured, when the cafk is faftened up.
From the produce of the fifhery a tenth part is deduftcd in kind,
which tenth is equally divided into three parts, one of which goes
to the king, another is for the ufe of the paftor or mlnlfter of the
church, and the remaining third is appropriated to keep the
church in repair.
To the fiflies of Lapland fliould alfo be reckoned thofc which
inhabit the Northern or Frozen Ocean, but wc cannot here enter
into a defcrlptlon of them; much lefs would it fuit our purpofe
to enumerate thofe which are common in other countries.
SECTION
CONCERNING LATLAND. 245
SECTION XV.
Of the Jnfe61s and Tejlaceons An'imah of Lapland.
OINCE Dr. Quenzel's travels in Lapland, this country has fur-
nifhed many interefting objeds to the entomologifts and col-
lc6lors of infeds throughout Europe. In the time of Linnaeus
there was not a fingle infedl of the clafs leptdoptera known as in-
digenous in Lapland ; and it is almoft incomprehenfiblc how the
^rt?i.t phalanir. and papilios, that hunt the ne<Saries of thofe flowers
which embellifli thefe northern diflrids, could have cfcaped the
iearching eye of fo attentive a naturalifl. Dr. Quenzel difcovercd
feveral fpecies, and brought with him a great number of fpeci-
mens, which were foon fcattercd over Germany, and all coun-
tries where thefe obje<5l:s are efteemed and colleded. It is an un-
fortunate circumfbance, however, that colle6lions ot that kind are
often confidered as mere articles of fliow ; and that the cntomolo-
gifts are frequently nothing more than walking inventories, that
have their heads filled with a gothic mixture of Greek, Latin,
and barbarous names.
Entomology, when ftudied by a phllofophical obferver, may
become a purfuit of great importance to fociety, and lead to dlf-
coveries of eflential benefit;, but while the zeal of cntomologifts
confifts
046 GENERAL REMARKS
coafifts In a rage of making colle6lions, in bringing together what
is beautiful or fingular, and fcrvcs to amufe an empty curiofity,
little advantage is to be expefted from their labours. The true
objeft in thefe refearches ought to be, to obfcrve the manner in
which the infects live, what qualities they pofTefs, how they arc
transformed, and what influence they have upon the general
economy of nature. How much remains yet to be difcovered in
thefe little animals, in whofe very fmallnefs nature fhows herfelf
fo great ? Some of their fenfes, as that of hearing and fmelling,
moreover the fundlions of the antennas, the form of their eyes,
their love, their generation, their means of defence, and of pro-
viding for their different wants ; all thefe are things that are as
yet but very impcrtcdly known. It is among the infefts that
we perceive the moft extraordinary deviations from the common
coiirfe of nature. Thus we find that the aphides bring forth eggs
and living young ones feveral times following, after only having
been once impregnated by the male. In the g&nus phalana there
are fome of which the females are without wings, and never en-
joy the pleafure of flying except when they enjoy the embraces of
the male, that carries them into the air, as it were, to Indulge the
rapture of love in the arms of zephyrs. Who is ignorant of the
fagacity, induflry, and regularity of the bees ? Who would have
imagined that there are infeds that re-produce their limbs, and
even their heads, when cut off? The ciirad'io antiodontalgicus,
which has the power of allaying the tooth-ach ; the vieloe majalis,
ufeful in hydrophobia ; the lytla vejicator'ia, which dra\NS blifters ;
the
CONCERNIXG LAPLAND. 247
the bomhyx, or filk-worm, and others, are infccls for the utihty
of which wc are indebted to the obfervations of true entomo-
logifts.
There is ftill a wide field open for difcoveries of tlic hke nature.
If, for inftance, it were afcertained which caterpillars are moft
injurious to the vegetation of young trees, our en.-deavcurs to de-
llroy them might be directed accordingly. Several are pernicious
to the grain ; thefe alfo might be pointed out and fuccefsfuUy
fubdued. On the other hand, the entomologift might fhow new
advantages to be derived from fome infeds that are as yet un-
known. The termes, hlatta, dermejies, tinea, may perhaps at fbme
future period be looked upon with lefs apprehenfion and difllkc
than thofe infecfls which are now efteemed perfcdly innocent ;
and the hufbandman, by the exertions of the entomologift, be
freed from the fear of feeing the fields that he cultivates with the
fweat of his brow, changed into barren and unfruitful ground.
The new fpecics of infedls which have been found in Lap-
land, offer as yet no ftriking difcoveries of pra<3:ical benefit. The.'
firft ftep always muft be to know a thing before we can invefti-
gate its ufe, and in this we are greatly affifted by a fcientific
method and claffification. Travellers have hitherto only been
able to fcarch for and gather materials ; they have made collec-
tions, and given lifts and defcriptions : of this kind will alfo be
found to be that which is prefented to the reader in this work.
To render it more interefting, the figures are added of fuch in-
feds as have not yet obtained a place in any colledlion of prints. I
fliall
248 GENERAL REMARKS
Ihall proceed to the catalogue of infedls ; after previoufly noticing
an obfervation, communicated to me by Dr. Quenzel, viz. that
the phalana, which with us only appear towards the evening,
and fly in the night, follow quite the oppofite pradice in Lap-
land ; they fly about in the day-time, and go to reft, and difap-
pear when the fun is near the horizon. This is a fa6l, for which
I cannot account, and which I mull leave for others who are more
competent to explain.
List of Iksects.
Scardbezus Fatens.
Scarahceus DcpreJJ'us, {. Fetmiciis.
Scarabaus SahiiletL ■■
Scarites Ardficus.
Trogojita TJioraclca,
Trogojita Corticalis.
Carahus Borea/is,
Car ah us Nivalis,
Carabns Guttida,
Carabus Alpinus : it fleeps in the night on thegrafs.
Carahus Apricarius : on the mountains of Dalecarlia.
Elaphrus Striatus : on the banks of rivers.
Dytifciis Ar^iciis,
Dytifcus Dolahratns,
Dytijhis Affnis,
Dytifcus Alpinus,
Dytifcus
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 249
Djiijcns Lhieatus. ■ : •
Gyrinus Bkolor : in Finland.
Elophorus Fennjcui.
Xyl'tta Ferrughiea.
Hypnhis Quadngiittatus.
Anthtcus Oailatus : in Finland.
Anthicus Ferrng'meus.
Ca7ithans Alpina,
Cant harts P'lloja.
Malach'ms Flavipes; in Finland.
Dermeftes Schceffer'i.
Dermejies Glaherrimus, on the mountains of Dalecarlia.
Dennefles Ater ; in Finland.
Silplia Tometitoja.
Silpha Rugojh : this infedl is to be met with in any part of Swe-
den ; and in Lapland it abounds.
Coccmella Anal'is, in Finland. •
Coccinella Trlfafciata,
Cocc'tneUa BotJinica.
Coccinella Hyperhorea.
Coccinella Ar£iica.
Coccinella Bifafciata.
CaJJida Sanguinolenta, in Dalecarlia.
Chryfomela Lapponica.
Chryfomela D'lfpar : Var. y, S, ^.
Crioceris Betiila;, in Weft Bothnia.
Vol. II. K k Cifieia
250 GENERAL REMARKS
C'tjlela Axillaris, in Finland : the name is not fuitable.
Cryptocephahis Affinls, in Finland.
Cryplocephalus Cordiger : Var. y, <?.
Cryptocephahis Variegatus,
Cryptocephahis Sexpiin6iatus : Var (3.
Cryptocephahis Coryl'i : Var. y.
Cryptocephahis Phii : Var. (3.
Dryops ^^nea, in Finland.
Dajytes Linearis. ' • "
Lymexylon Paradoxum, in Finland.
Serropalpus Striatus : Dircea barbata, Fabric.
Ripiphonis Femiicus.
Bnprejies Cofige?ter. ' ^
Bnpreftes Acuminata.
Buprejies Morio. ■ '. ' '
Note. The above mentioned infecfts are contained in PaykuU's
Fauna Suecica, where the defcription may be compared.
The following are to be found in the work of Fabricius :
Elater Tri/lis.
Elater Melancholicus. ■ , .• .
E/ater MetaJUctis : a new fpecies.
Elater Riparius.
Lcptnra RitficoUis e Finhmdid, vel L. Thoracica.
Leptiira Strigilata. . . • "
.1 ; i^ Leptura
25 »
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
Leptiira Iiiterrogatmth : alfo Var. duodccim maculata.
Leptura Smaragdula.
Leptura Marg'mata.
Leptura Lamed : alio found in the other provinces of Sweden
Leptura Sexmaculata.
Rhhiomacer Attelahotdes.
Curculio Ar^kus.
CurcuUo P'met'i.
Curculio j^thiops.
Staphyl'mus Alpinus.
Papilto Emhla,
Pap'il'io Gejion,
PapiUo Honia,
Papil'io Hilda,
PapiUo Frigga,
PapiUo Freya,
PapiUo Pales : this is alfo found in Germany.
Bonihyx Lunigera,
Bonibyx Quenzeli,
Bonibyx Morio : quite black, with pellucid wings.
Bombyx Lapponica ; Thunberg.
NoSiua Divergens, which, according to d'Antic, is likewife found
upon the Pyrenees ; but this may be a different fpccics.
No&ua Heliophila,
No£iua Funejla, ' .
No5iua Cin5la,
No£iua Cordigera.
See the Stockholm Tranfadions of the
year 1791.
> See the Copenhagen Tranfadions.
252 GENERAL REMARKS
Phryganea Phalanoides. . • ' -
Tenthredo Lucorum.
Tenthredo Fufciata.
Tenthredo Vitelline. . .
S'trex G'lgas, Sirex Camelus : both Ipecies are alfo found more to
the fouthward.
Jpis AJpina,
Apis ArSiica, ' ■ -
Apis Lappo7iica,
Apis Equejiris, &c.
(Eftnis Tarandi,
CEJirus Nafalis.
Tab anus Tarandiiius.
Culex Pipiens. 1 ^, . - • , , , ,
; The air Iwarms with them, when the
Culex PuUcaris. ^ , . ^
! weather is hne.
Culex Reptans. J
Empis Borealis, . ' '
Onifcus Pfora. ■) ^ , n ^vt
■^ ^ On the coaft on Norway.
Onifcus Entomon. j
Note. There are fome fpecies of Geometra and Tinea in Lap-
land ; but I do not know their names.
I Ihall now add the effential charafters of the infeds exhibited
upon the annexed plates, as they are defcribed by that acute and
diligent naturalift, Dr. Quenzel.
PLATE
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 253
PLATE I.
1. Sirex NigricGniis : nigcr — abdominc luteo, bafi nigro ; pedibus
quatuor anterioribus flavefcentibus.
2. ^pis Alpina : nigra — abdomine fulvo, bafi nigro.
3. Apis Lappo7ilca : flava — capitc, fafcia thoracis media, antcnnis,
pedibufque, nigris ; abdomine bafi fulvo, apice albido.
4. Bomhyx Alp'ma : alis fuperioribus nigris, flavo maculatis ; in-
ferioribus coccineis, bafi fafciifque macularibus conca-
tenatis atris.
5. NoSiiia Alpicola : alis fuperioribus cinereis, fafciis ftrigifque
undulatis obfcuriorlbus ; inferloribus fufcis, lunula mar-
gineque albis.
6. Noctua Alpicola : underfide.
7. Apis Ar5iica : nigra — thorace antice pofticeque fulvo, abdo-
mine fupra fafciis flavis fulvifque.
PLATE n.
1. P a pilio Emilia : alls fuperioribus fufcis, lunula media fulva ;
inferloribus dentatis, fupra lutefcentibus, nigro-ma-
culatis, infra virefcentibus, maculis circiter fedecim
rotundis argenteis.
2. Papilio Emilia : underfide.
3. Leptura Spadicea : fufca, obfcura, elytris piceis.
4. heptura
254 ^ GENERAL REMARKS
-1. Leptura Thoractca : nigra, thorace fanguineo. _^
5. Bombyx Lapponka : alis omnibus ferruginels, maculis tranf-
verfis flavis fufco inclufis.
6. Ditto. s • .
PLATE III.
1 . PapiUo Sophia : alis omnibus integris, fufco ferrugineis, anticis
fupra ocellis tribus, anteriori gemino luteis pupilla
nigra ; inferiorlbus fubtus punfto medio albo.
2. Papilio Sopliia : underfide.
3. Tinea Leucotnella : atra ; capite, thoracis medio, fafciis tribus,
bafi ciliifque alarum, annulifque pedum, albis.
4. Dytifcus Alpinus • flavefcens ; thorace maculis, elytrifque flriis
abbreviatis, maculifque marginalibus nigris.
5. Si/pha Tomentofa : nigra, obfcura ; elytris rugofis ; capite, tho-
raceque albldo, dense tomentofis.
6. Coccinella happonica : flava ; thoracis medio, elytrorumque fu-
tura dentata, lineaque flexuosa, cum futura bis coe-
unte, nigris.
Note. This fpecies Is not defcribed in PaykuH's Fauna;
for it is neither the Coccinella ArSiica o( ihsit author,
nor his Hyperhorea, which is reprefented upon the an-
nexed plate, fig. 7, nor any other. It is therefore
wanting in that work. .. ;
7. Coccinella Hyperhorea : coleoptris luteis ; fafciis duabus abbre-
viatis, nigris flavo cindlis ; thorace flavo, nigro ma-
^ ■ . ~ culato.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 255
8. DaJ)'tes Linearis : linearis, virefcens.
9. Lymcxylon Paradoxnm : fufcum, capite thoraccquc flavefccntl-
bus — vlx hujus generis.
10. Curciilio ArSiicus : longiroftris, femoribus fubdentatis, cinc-
reus, fufco ftriatim punftatus ; pun6lis thoracis duo-
bus, elytrorumque duobus vel quatuor majoribus, pilofo
albidis.
] 1 . Leptiira Smaragduh : viridis, pubefcens — varlat fufca et nigra,
pulvcre virldi detrito. Similis Leptur^ virenti, at
triplo fere minor.
12. Carahus Alplnus : thorace rotundato antice pofticeque tranf-
verfo ; elytris ferruglneis fufco-marginatis, vel totis
nigrls. ' .
13. Hypulus Quadr'igutlatus : niger, obfcurus, elytris flavo qua-
drimaculatis.
j-1. Cantliar'is Alp'ina : maf. fufca, ^^w. lutefcens ; thorace flavef-
cente, poftice unidentato ; macula media fufca.
15. Ditto, Feniina.
16. Rhagitim Femiicnm : thorace fubfpinofo ; luteum ; capite,
elytrorum marginibus, pedibufque, fufcis.
17. Cerambyx Fenniais : thorace fpinofo ; grifeus ; elytris a bafi ad
medium, fafciaque poftica, fufcis.
18. Scar it es ArSiicus : niger, fubnitens aeneo ; pedibus ferrugi-
neis ; thorace globofo.
19. Elater Cojialis : niger, nitldus ; elytris ftriatis, convexiufculis,
margine exteriore rufefcente.
Some
25C GENERAL REMARKS
Some of the infefts here defcribed, are mentioned in the tranf-
a^lions of the fociety of natural hiftory at Copenhagen (Skrivter
of NatJirhiJiorie Selljkabet i KjohenhavnJ ; and feveral have been
named by Dr. Quenzel, who firft found them.
Concerning the tejlaceous animals, I have only to remark, that
their number is by no means confiderable in the North ; and that
thofe which are found there, are like the other productions of
nature, neither brilliant in their colour, nor very various in their
form. The following are perhaps alone worth noticing : —
Mya Margarlufera, ■?,,,. rr 1 ^
\ In the rivers of Lapland.
Mya FiSiornm, 3
Buccinium Glaciale : in the Icy Ocean.
Bucc'iHiuni Undatum. ' ' .
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 257
SECTION xvr.
Of Lapland Botany.
np^HE Flora Lapponica, by Linnajus, is a repofitory of all thofe
plants which are known in Lapland ; but what intcrefts a
traveller of curiofity is, to be told which plants moft peculiarly
appertain to that country, in order that he may be able to con-
centrate his attention, and carry away with him objedls of value,
for himfelf and his botanical friends. To that end I will fubjoin
a lift of thofe plants, with references where they are defcribed or
figured.
The indigenous Plants of Lapland.
Pingnicula Villofa — fcapo villofo.* See Flora Lapponica.
Poa Glauca — panicula patula fecunda, fpiculis fubtrifloris, flofculis
acuminatis bafi pubefcentibus, foliis fubulatis. See
Flora Danica.
Campanula nniflora — caule unifloro. Fl. Lapp.
Goitiana purpurea — coroUis fexfidis campanulatis vcrticillatis feffi-
libus, calycibus truncatis dentatis. Fl. Dan.
* Ihe Ipecific characters are moftly taken from Smith's edition of the Flora
Lapponica. ' '
Vol. II. LI J uncus
258 GENERAL REMARKS
Junctis Bighimls — folio Tubulato, gluma blflora terminali. — Amce-
nitates Academicse Holm.
Juficus Styg'ius — foliis fetaceis deprcffiufculis, pedunculis geminis
terminalibus, glumis folitariis fubbifloris. Smithii
Plantarum Icones.
Stellarla B'lflora — ramis ereclis bifloris. Ada Holmenfia.
SteUana Hum'ifufa — foliis ovatis fubfecundis feffilibus, caulibus,
procumbentibus tetragonis, pedunculis folitariis abbre-
viatis. A61. Holm.
Stellarla Cerajioides — foliis oblongis, pedunculis fubbifloris. Smith
Plant. Ic.
Atidromeda Carulea — foliis linearlbus obtufis fparfis. Fl. Lapp.
Andromeda Hypnoldes — foliis aciformlbus confertis. Fl. Lapp.
Andromeda Tetragona — foliis triquetre imbricatis obtufis, ex alls
florens. Fl. Lapp.
Sax'ifraga Cernua — foliis palmatis, caule fimplici unlfloro. Fl.
Lapp.
Saxifraga Cafpitofa — foliis radicalibus aggregatis linearlbus inte-
grls trlfidifque, caule eredto fubnudo fubblfloro. Fl.
Lapp.
Saxifraga Rlvularls — foliis radicalibus qulnquelobis, florali ovato.
Fl. Lapp.
Saxifraga Hlrculus — foliis caulinls lanceolatis, alternis nudis Iner-
mibus, caule ere6lo. Fl. Dan.
Lychnis Apetala — caule fimplicifTimo unlfloro, corolla Inclufa —
Fl. Lapp.
Rubus
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 259
lliihus Ar£Itcns—cz.\x\c unifloro, foliis ternatls. — FI. Lapp. Dan.
rotent'iUa Nivca — foliis ternatis incilis fubtus tomentofis, caulc ad-
fccndcntc. — Fl. Lapp. Dan.
Ranunculus Lappojiicus — caule unit'olio & unifloro, foliis trlpartitis.
— Fl. Lapp.
Rawmculus Nivalis — caule unifloro, foliis radicalibus palmatis,
caulinis multipartitis feflilibus. — Fl. Lapp.
Ra7mnculus Pygmaus.*
Pediadaris Lapponica — caule fimplici, foliis lanceolatis femipin-
natis fcrratis acutis. — Fl. Lapp.
Pedicularis Sceptrum Carolinum — flore aurco magno, ricflu fangul-
nco. — Fl. Lapp. Dan.
Pedicularis Hirjuta — caule flmplici, calycibus vlllofis, foliis linea-
rlbus dentatls crenatis. — Fl. Lapp.
Draba Alpiua — fcapo nudo fimpllcl, foliis lanceolatis lntec:errlmis.
Fl. Dan.
Draba Hirta — fcapo unlfolio, foliis fubhirfutis, filiculls obliquis
pcdlcellatis. — Fl. Dan.
Draba Nivalis — foliis lanceolatis Integerrlmis fubpubefcentlbus cl-
llatls, fcapo unlfolio decumbente, petalis retufis.f —
Nova Ada Societ. Upfal.
Gnap/ialiutn Alpiuum — caule fimpliciflimo, capltulo terminate, flo-
rlbus oblongis. — Fl. Lapp. Dan.
■■' This fpecies is not to be found in the Flora Lapponica, nor in Wildenow's
edition of the Syftem. Veget.
t This defcription is taken from Wildenow.
L 1 2 Cvpripedium
26o * GENERAL REMARKS
Cypr'tpeJ'iiim Bulbofitm — folio fubrotundo. — Fl. Lapp. Smith. PI.
Icon.
Carex Capitata — fpica fimplici androgyna ovata : fuperne mafcula,
capfulis imbricato-patulis. — Fl. Dan.
Salix PliylicifoUa — foliis ferratls glabris lanceolatis, crenls undu-
latis. — Fl. Lapp. Dan.
Salix Tenuifolta — foliis ferratis glabris verticaliter ovatis. — Fl. Lapp,
Dan.
Sal'ix FoUoIofa — foliis integris glabris ovatis confertis pellucidls. —
Fl. Dan.
Salix Arhiifcula — foliis fubferratis glabris lanceolatis utrimque acu-
tis. — Fl, Lapp. Dan,
Salix Lafiata — foliis integris utrimque lanatis fubrotundis acutis,
Fl. Lapp, Dan.
Splachnum Luteutn — umbraculo orbiculari piano, — Hedwig, Mufci.
Amcen. Acad.
Splachnum Ruhnim — umbraculo orbiculari hemifphaerico.
Splachnum Mnioides — fubacaule, receptaculo oblongo.
Splachnum Angiijlatum — caulefcens, foliis plliferis, pedunculo bre-
viffimo.
Splachnum Spharicum — receptaculo globofo.
Lichen ArSlicus — foliis planis fubrotundis lobatis obtufis, calyce
piano ovali, lacinulie proprias adnato, nlveus. — Fl.
Lapp,
Lichen Nivalis — niveus ilnlbus daedalis laciniatus, ramls eredis,
calyce orbiculato. — Fl. Lapp.
Lichen
CONCERNING LAPL/VND. 261
Lichen Prohofc'tdens — foliaceus, umbllicatus, pcltis turbinatis, truii-
catis, perforatis.
The berry of the Rnhus Ar^icus, when fufficicntly ripened, is
fuperior in fragrance and flavour to the ftrawberry and rafpberry,
and to all fruit of the fame kind, even \\ hat \vc have in Italy. A
fmall plateful would fcent an apartment with a more exquifitc
fweetnefs than any perfume I know^ of. It is fmgular that fo de-
licious a production fliould be found in the North. They pre-
ferve it in Sweden, and it makes one of the mofl delicate fweet-
meats. Linnzeus fpeaks of this fruit in high terms of praife, and
fays, that it often refreflied him in his travels through Lapland,
when he was overwhelmed with fatigue.
The Rnhus chamamoms is alfo ufed for preferves. It gro\\s
plentifully in Lapland, efpecially in marfhy fituations. The berry
of this plant is yellowifli, and nearly of the fame fliape as the
rafpberry, but larger in fize, and more infipid in tafte. We how-
ever thought it delicious when we found it in our walks, through
the bogs of Lapland.
I am of opinion that the 'Diapeiijla Lappoii'ica, and the Azalea
procumhens, fliould be reckoned among the indigenous plants, pro-
perly fo called. I have foimd both in flower on the top of very
high mountains, where all other vegetation feemed to ceafe, and
nothing was to be feen befides the Utchen rangifcrhius.
The Arbutiis alp'ina, and TnJJilago frig'ida, begin to put out their
buds in fpite of the fnow, and before it is quite melted ; and often
the
262 GENERAL REMARKS
the flowers are even produced during the fnow. The leaves of
the iujjilago, however, never come out till about a fortnight after
the fnow is gone.
The Andromeda carulea adorns the bogs of Lapland. 1 found
fome entirely white, and gathered feveral fpecimens of them.
The zf/Ilows are numerous in Lapland, but it is rather difficult
to know them, as in many the time of the flower and that of the
leaves is different. They are a ufetul producftion for the economy
of nature, particularly in that country : they furnifh the birds
with good materials for building their nefts, by means of the cot-
tony fubflance they afford : the infedls prefer them to other trees,
and by their long and winding roots, they keep the banks of
brooks and rivers together, which would otherwife crumble to
pieces. The Laplanders make cords of the roots of the willow,
which they ufe in their fiflieries.
The quicknefs of the vegetation in Lapland is a thing of which
we have no conception in other parts of Europe. The whole is
accompliflied in the fpace of two months ; and to give the reader
a more accurate idea of it, I w ill mention as an example, that a
tobacco plant at Enontekis generally increafes more than an inch
in circumference during the interval of twenty-four hours.
I remarked in my travels what trees extended fartheft to the
north, and from this 1 abftradled a kind of rule for the latitude
in which I found myfelf. For infl:ance, from Tornea as far as
Ketkemando, you meet with firs, pines, and birches, promifcu-
oufly : but beyond Ketkemando the firs difappear, and you only
fee
I
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 06^
fee pines and birches. From Kautokeino as far as the mountains
you lofe fight of the pines, and the birches alone remain. At j
Alten you again fee a few pines ; but from Alten to the North {; I
Cape, you perceive nothing but birches, and thefe become fcarcer '
the nearer you approach the North Cape : i
Rara, nee hacc felix in apertis eminet arvis
Arbos •
;i
SECTION
a"64 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XVII.
Of Miner ah.
TJARON Hermelin, who has publiflied maps of Sweden, Fin-
-*-' land, and Lapland, which we have noticed before, is at pre-
fent engaged in a work on the Lapland minerals ; and we may ex-
pecfl fomething very fatisfadory from the labours of a perfon fo
well verfed in that fcience, and fo accurate and attentive in his
refearches. Lapland abounds in minerals of all kinds : but it is
not eafy for a traveller, who is but fuperficially acquainted with
the fubjeft, and who is hurried by the fliortnefs of his time, to
communicate as much information as the reader of his work may
perhaps be led to look for. I coUefted in that remote country
fome ftones, or minerals ; but fbon found them too cumberfome,
as we were frequently obliged to travel on foot, and have our bag-
gage carried by men.
When I returned to Stockholm, I laid the fpecimens I had
kept before Mr. Hyelm, who has the care of the colle6tion of mi-
nerals at that place, and is infpeftor of the mint ; and he fliowed
me a great number of minerals brought from the fame country
by different travellers, and chiefly thofe whom Baron Hermelin
7 had
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 265
had employed to draw his maps : for he always chofe fuch men
as were acquainted with mineralogy, that they might likewife be
ufeful to him in that fcience, which is the principal object of his
attention.
Mr. Hyelm not only had the goodnefs to favour me with many
fpecimcns, of which he had duplicates, but even condcfccnded to
write out for mc a fyftematic lift of all the Lapland minerals*
contained in the col!ecl:ion alluded to, which are arranged ac-
cording to the ditferent parts o{ the country from whence they
were obtained. This lilt I \\\\\ here fubjoin, being perfuadcd it
will intereft the lovers of this branch of natural hiltorv.
* This lift, as will be feen, is not confined to Lapland, but takes in fome pro-
vinces in the neighbourhood, belonging to Sweden and Finland. This deviation
from the ftiict limits of Lapland will probably be pardoned, as it brings addi-
tional information, and at the fame time refers to countries wliich have equally
been the fubject of the foregoing veork.
The names of the minerals in the original lift were given in Swedifh, and
fometimes explained by the French. Thefe we have attempted to render into
the language familiar to Englifli mineralogifts : in doing which we have chietly
followed the works of Kirwan and Cronftedt, and adopted the technical terms
ufed by thefe writers. To avoid the poffibility of a miftake, the Swcdifti words
are added in a parenthefis to nioft fpecies that are mentioned, and fomeiimes
alfo the French, German, and Latin appellations. Where any doubt remained,
the fign of a query (?) has been put : fo that it is hoped the lift will appear pretty
accurate.
Vol. II. M m LIST
:66 GENERAL REMARKS
LIST OF MINERALS.
1. MINERALS OF JEMTLAND IN SWEDEN.
1 . S/ofies.
Calcareous Genus. Calcareous Spar (Swed. Kalkfpat ; French,
Spath calcaire) white and red, of different kinds of cryf-
tallization. Ltme/io7ie (Sw. Kalkftcn). Alarhle, ftri-
ated and of various colours. Stala6fites (Sw. Dropp-
ften). Sw'incjlone (Sw. Orften) cryflallifed and compatft.
Marl (Sw. Mergel) i. e. chalk mixed with clay : it
occurs in different forms, and is accordingly diflin-
guifhed in Sweden by different names, oi Marlckor, or
Niickelbrod.
Siliceous Genus. Mountain or Kock-cryjiali^^. Bergcryflaller)
of different fize and colour. Jafper. iS/^o/-/ (Sw. Skorlj.
Cliert or Hornjione (Sw. Hiillcflinta ; Germ. Hornftein ;
Fr. cuillou dc roche ; Lat. Petrofilex, or Lapis corneus).
Garnet (Sw. Granatcr; Fr. Grenat ; Lat. Granatus).
Coarfe grained Garnet Jione, or Amorphous Garnet (Sw.
Granatberg ; Fr. Roche de Grenat ; Germ. Granat-
fiein ; Granatus particulis granulatis, figura indetermi-
nata). ^'t'o/z/f, of feveral variations. — See the Traveller's
Guide
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 2C7
Guide by Mr. Engcflrom, p. 30, 3;. SUicccns ShJJhis
(S\v. Kifelllcifer).
Muriatic Gexus. Sliifiofc TakP (Sw. Tallkflcifer). Pof//one
(Sw. Tiillgften ; Lat. Lapis OUaris). Chlorite. Steatites
(Sw. Spiickllen). Amumtus. JJbcJius, of fundry fpecics.
Argillaceous Genus. Trap (Sw. & Germ. Trapp). Mka.
(Sw. & Germ. Glimmer) white and black.
Aggregated Stones: (Sw. Iliillearter). Korka ox Mwkjicn,
compofcd of Mica or Potflone, with Garnet.* Siiiflofe
Mica (Svv. Glimmcrfkifer or Hiillften) confiftina; of
Quartz and Mica. Shjfiofe Clay P (Svv. Lerllifer)-f-
2. Metals.
Copper : Copper Pyrites (Sw. Koppar kis). Blue Copper ore (Sw.
KopparLazur; Germ. Kupfer Lazur). Mountain Blue )
(Sw. Bergblatt ; Germ. Bergblau ; Fr. Bleu de mon-
tagne). Mountain Green (Sw. Berggront ; Fr. Verd dc
montagne).
Iron : Swampy Iron ore (Sw. Mjrmalm ; Germ. Sumpferz ; Fr.
mine de fer limoneufe). ^
Lead : Galena (Sw. Blyglans ; Germ. Bleyglanz ; Fr. Galene)
of many variations in texture and mixture, even witk
pyrites of brown iron.
ZiNK : Blende, which is Zink mineralifed by fulphur with iron.
* Kirwan puts quartz, mica, garnet. See Elem. of Mineral, vol. i. p. 3 13.
t Kirwan claffes this under the argillaceous genus. See vol. i. p. 18.!.
M m 2 3. Petri-
268 GENERxVL REMARKS
3. Fetrifa£lions.
Petrified wood.
II. MINERALS OF A XGERMANLAND.
Iron : Iron ore.
III. MINERALS OF TORNEO LAPPMARK.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. hhnejlone (Sw. Kalkftcn). Calcareous Spar.
Scaly himejlone^ (Sw. Limften). Marl. Fhior Spar.
Siliceous Gen. Quartz. Mountain or Rock Cryjlal. Amethyji.
Garnet. Coarfe Garnet. Bafantte or Blacl Jafper ^\
(Sw. Mclanit). Shorl. Zeolite. Hornjlone. Jafper. Sili-
ceous Shi/lus.
Muriatic Gen. Slii/lo/e Talc P (Sw. Tallkfkifer). Steatites.
Serpentine. Chlorite. JJbe/ioidPX (Sw. flralften). AJbtf-
tiis. Aniiantiis.
Barytic Gen. Pojideroiis Spar (Sw. Tung Spat).
Argillaceous Gen^ different fpecies : Trap, Hornblende, Mica,
Aluminous earth (Sw. Alunhalltig jord).
Aggregates : Serpentine Rock (Sw. Ophite). Noria. Amygdaloid
(Sw. Mandelften). Porphyry. Breccias, SandJIones. Shi/-
* S;e Cionftedt, vol. i. p. 24.
t S;e Kirwan, vol. i.p. 307.
% Ibid. p. 1C6 and 167.
7 Clay P
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 269
tofe Clayf (Sw. Lerikiter). Sh'ijlofe Hornblende f (Sw%
Hornblcndcflcifcr).*
2. hiflammahle Suhjlances.
Plumhago (Sw. Blyertz or Graphit). Native Sulphur. Martial Py-
rites or Common Sulphur Pyrites (Sw. Swafvcl kis;
Germ. Sulphur kics).
3. Metals.
Copper: Copper Pyrites. Blue Copper ore. f^itreo?/s Copper ore
(Sw. Kopparglas ; Germ. Kupferglas). Moimtaiu Blue.
Mountain Green. Malachite. Dendrites in Copper Py-
rites P-f Koppar BrandertzP'\,
Iron : Iron ore. Ferruginous SandP (Sw. lam fand). Micaceous
Iron ore (Sw. liirn glimmer; Germ. Eifen glimmer).
Haematites or Bloodjione. Sparry Iron ore (Sw. Stalften ;
Germ. Stahlftein or Spathiger Eiftenftein of Werner;
Fr. mine de fer fpatique). Iron Ochre.
Arsenic : Arfenical Pyrites or Marcajlie (Sw. Arfcnikkis ; Germ.
Arfcnikkies).
MoLYBDENA.
Gold : Native Gold, only once found at Svappawara.
* Kiiwaa aiianges the fliiftofe clay, and fliiftofe hornblende, under the argilla-
ceous genus. See vol. i. p. 182, and p. 222.
t Tliis I have not been able to afcevtain. — N.
X What is meant by this I do not exactly kno\v.---N.
-1. Pr'ri
270 GENERAL REMARKS
4. Petr'ifaSflons
Are found but feldom.
Note. The principal mines of Tornea Lappmark are, Packta-
vara, Skanglivara, Raggiovara, Jonuswando, Kirunavara, LuofTo-
vara, Wouovara, Kittila, &c.
IV. MINERALS OF UMEO LAPPMARK.
Iron ores of different kinds
V. MINERALS OF PITEO LAPPMARK.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. Calcareous Spar. S'ldero Calcife .^* (Sv\\ Brun
fpat; Fr. Spat calcaire rouge et brun).
Siliceous Gen. Quartz. Rock Cryjial. Shorl. Siliceous Shiftus,
Muriatic Gen. Steatites. AJbeJius.
Argillaceous Gen. Mica, white and black.
Aggregates : Norka. Shijiofe Mica (Svv. Glimmerfkifer).
2. Injlammahle Suhjiances.
Martial Pyrites.
Lead : Galena.
ZiNK : Blende.
3. Metals.
* Kirwan, vol. i. p. 105.
Iron
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 271
Ikon : Iron Ochre.
Antimony : Siilplmrated Aiitiviojiy, or Antimony Pyrites (Sw.
Antimonii Pyrites ; Fr. Pyrite Antimonialc). From the
mine of Nafafjall.
Vr. MINERALS OF LUTEO LAPPMARK.
1 . Stones.
Calcareous Gen. Limejionc (Sw. Kalkften). Calcareous Spar.
Marble. Gypfnm. Lime (Sw. Kalk) iiHth Garnets.
Siliceous Gen, Quartz. Mountain or Rock Cryjlal. Jajper.
Chert or Hornjlone. Shorl. Garnet. Felfpar (Sw. Fiilt-
fpat). Siliceous Shiftus (Sw. Kifelkifer),
Muriatic Gen. Steatites.
Argillaceous Gen. Trap. Clay containing Iron, 01 Ferruginous
ArgiUite P (Sw, liirnhalltig Lera).
Aggregates : Serpentine Rock. Gneifs (Sw. Gneis). Shijlofe
Mica. Breccias, Puddingjione.
2, Metals.
Copper : Copper Pyrites. Vitreous Copper ore. Moimtain Green.
Malachite.
L#EAD : Galena (Sw. Blyglans).
ZiNK : Blende.
Iron : Iron ores of fevcral kinds, and plentiful. Hamatites or
Bhodjione. Swampy Iron ore (Sw, M}'rmalm),
iSOtl.
272 GENERAL REMARKS
Note. The principal mines of Lutea Lappmark are, Kedkevara,
Alkavara, Hjertavara, Gellivara, &c.
VII. MINERALS OF KEMl LAPPMARK.
1. Stones.
Siliceous Gen. Hontftone. Garnet. Siliceous Shi/Jus.
Muriatic Gen. S/ii/fofe Ta/c P (Sw. Tallkllcifer) with a black
grain. Aniiantus. Steatites. j^Jbe/ioidP* (Sw. Stralften).
Argillaceous Gen. Mica. Hornblende. Wacken.
Aggregates : Sandjlones. Hornblende Slate (Sw. Germ. Horn-
blendefch ifer) . Breccias.
2. Metals.
Copper : Copper Pyrites. Motintain Green.
Lead : Galena.
Iron : Sparry Iron ore (Sw.Stalften; Germ.Stahlllein). Iron Ochre.
VIII. MINERALS OF WESTRO-BOTllNl A.
1. Stones.
Argillaceous Gen. Clay containing Iron, or Ferruginous Argil-
lite P (Sw. larnhalltig Lera). Trap. Hornblende.
Aggregates: Shi/iofe Mica (Sw. Glimmer Skifer). Grunjien or
Granitell (Sw. Gronften).
* Kirwan, vol. i. p. 166, 167.
2. In-
f
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 27 j
2. hiflammahle Subjiances.
riuvihago (Sw. and Germ. Graphit).
3. Metals.
Iron : Iron ore.
IX. MINERALS Of OSTRO-BOTHNtA.
1. Stones.
Siliceous Gen. Quartz. Garnet. Bafanite or Black Jafperf
(Sw. Mclanit).
Muriatic Gen. Shi/iofe Talc (Sw. Tallkfkifer).
Argillaceous Gen : Hornblende.
Aggregates : Grtwjien or Granitell (Sw. Gronften). Shjftofe
Mica,
2. Lrflajmnable Sub/la7iccs.
Plumbago. Martial Pyrites Sw. Swafvelkis).
3. Metals.
Iron : Iron ore. MoraJJy Iron oreP* (Sw. Sjomalm). Swampy Iron
Ore (Sw.Myrmalm). Ferruginous SandP (Sw. larnfand).
Arsenic : Arjenical Pyrites or Marcajite (Sw. Arfenikkis).
* See Kirwan, vol. H.p. 153.
Vol. II. N n x. minerals
274 GENERAL REMx\RKS
X. MI^'ERALS OF THE GOVERNMENT OF ULEABORG.
1 . Stones.
Siliceous Gen. Quarts. Chert or Honiftone. Shorl.
Muriatic Gen. Atnimitns. Steatites.
Argillaceous Gen. Marl.
Aggregates: Shijlofe Mka.
2. hiflammahle Suhjlances.
Fhwihago. Martial Pyrites.
3. Metals.
Copper : Vitreous Copper Ore. Mountain Green.
XI. minerals of carelia.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. CryJiaUifed Calcareous Spar or Drufen Spar .^*
(Sw. Kalkdrufer). Marble. Marl.
Siliceous Gen. Cellular Quartz f''\ (Sw. Quarts drus). Mou7i-
tain or Rock Cryjial. Zeolite.
Muriatic Gen. Shl/iofe Talc (Sw. Tallk fkifer). J,51i?iolite P+
* See Cronftedt, vol. i. p. 27.
t See Kirwan, vol. i. p. 244.
t See Kirwan, vol. p. 167 and 168.
(Sw.
CONCERNING L^VPLAND. 275
(Sw. Trcmollt). Jijbejloidf'' (Sw. Stralftcn ; Germ.
Strahlilein).
Argillaceous Gen. Aluminous Slate (Sw. Alunfkiter).
Aggregates : Sandjiones.
2. Ivflammahle Suhjlances.
Tlumhago. Marital Pyrites.
3, Metals.
Iron : Ochraceous Iron Ore, found at the bottom of lakes (Sw.
Sjomalm).f
XII. MINERALS OF FINLAND, PROPERLY SO CALLED.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. L'wiejiojie. Calcareous Spar. Marble. Sidero
Calctte P (Sw. Brun fpat). Fluor Spar.
Siliceous Gen. Q«a/7s, red and green. Sliorl. Garnet, v<h\ch.
is fuppofed to contain tin, but apparently contains
Titanite. Felfpar.
Muriatic Gen. Serpentine.
Argillaceous Gen. Argill, mixed with fliells and fcales of
fifhes. Mica, convex and gUttering. Trap. Bafalt.
* See Kirwan, p. 166 and 167.
t Is it the morafly iron ore of Kirwan, vol. ii. p. 183 ?
N n 2 Aggre-
2/5 GENERAL REMARKS
Aggregates: Sa^jJ/ione or Quadrjun Cos p* (Sw. Brynften-, Fr>
pierre a aiguifer). Sli'ijlofe Mica.
2. hiflamniahle Suhjlances.
Plumhago. Martial Pyrites or Common Sulphur Pyrites:
3. Metals.
Copper : Copper Pyrites.
Iron : Iron Ore. Sivampy Iron Ore.
Arsenic : Arfcnical Pyrites or Marcafite.
Tungstenite : Wolfram.
Xm. MINERALS OF NYLAND, IN FINLAND.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. himejlone. Calcareous Spar. Marhle. Marl.
Sidero Calcite f (Sw. Brunfpar). Fluor Spar.
Siliceous Gen. Quartz, white, blue, green. Mountain or Rock
Cryjial, blue. Smoaky Topaz-f (Sw. Rock topas ; Germ.
Rauch topas). Shorl. Garnet. Paf unite or Black Jaf-
perf (Sw. Germ. Melanit). Coarfe Garnet (Sw. Gra-
natberg). Zeolite. Felfpar.
MuRATic Gen. 5'Ai/?o/^ Ta/c (Sw. Tallk fkifer). Serpentine. Jf-
hejiis. JJbeJioid^ (Sw. Stralften). Chlorite.
* If the novaculite of Kiiwan were meant, it fliould be referred to the argil-
laceous genus. See vol. i. p. 238.
t See Cronfledt, vol. i. p. 169.
Argil-
CONCERNING Ly^PLAND. 277
Argillaceous Gen. Clay contaiu'ing Iron, or Fcrrnghions Arg'il-
//'/^.•^ (S\v. larnhalltigLcraj. Trap. Hornblende. Mica.
Bajhlt.
Aggregates: Serpentine Rock (^w.O'^Xwt). ShiJlofeMica. Com~
mon roof Slate P (^Sw. TaklTcitcr ; Lat. Schiflus tegu-
larls). Talc with Mica (Sw. Tallk med Glimmer).
2. hiflamma'bk Snhjlances.
Fhimhago. Martial Pyrites, or Common Sulphur Pyrites (Sw.
Swafvelkis).
3. Metals.
Copper: Copper Pyrites.
Iron : Iron Ore of the common fort. Haematites -with Man-
ganefe. Sparry Iron Ore (Sw. Stalften ; Germ. Stahl-
ftein). Iron Ochre. Native PruJ/ian Blue. ^ (Sw. Na.-
turlig Berlinerbla).
Lead: G a/en a (Sw. B\yg\ans).
Zinc : Blende.
Arsenic : Arfe7iical Pyrites, or Marcajite (Sw. Arfenikkis).
4. Petrifactions.
Some are found.
tsote. The mod remarkable mines in Nyland are thofe of Lep-
pel'a and Orijaufir.
5 XIV. MINERALS
378 GENERiU. REMARKS
KIV. MINERALS OF THE ISLES OF ALAND.
1. St07ies.
Calcareous Gen. Compa£i hmejlone (Sw. Tat Kalkften). MarL
Siliceous Gen. Quartz. Quartz Cryjiallized (Sw. Quarts cry-^
flaller). Mountain or Rock Cryftal. Fclfpar.
Argillaceous Gen. Mica.
2. Metals.
Lead : Galena.
N. B. The above lift was made in the year 1800, from the
fpccimens contained in the colle<$lion belonging to the college, or
the commiffioners, of the mines at Stockholm.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 279
SECTION XVIII.
Of the ManufaSlures of Lapland.
'Tr^HE Lapland women prepare the Hvins of the foxes, fawns,
otters, and other animals for fale ; to which end thcyftrip
them of the membranes, and afterwards cure them with fifli oil.
The finews taken from the legs of the rcin-decr are held before
the fire, and beaten with wooden hammers ; then they are divided
into filaments as fine as hair, which the women twill into threads
of different thicknefs. The women likewife ornament the har-
ness of the fledges with tinfel wire, which they draw themfelves
through a machine made of the fkuU of the rein-deer, provided
with holes of different fizes, according to the thicknefs of the wire
they have occafion for. With this wire the women afterwards
embroider, and fome of them in a very neat manner, not only the
harnefs of the rein-deer, but the coats and gloves of the men, as
has been already mentioned. The women likewife know how to
dye cloth in a yellow colour, which they apply to various orna-
ments. The blankets the Laplanders ufe are all woven by the
•women ; and after having fervcd for a time as a covering for their
beds, they join them together, as many as are neceffary, and con-
vert them into a covering for their tents.
The
2 So GENERAL REMARKS
The men are very dexterous in making veflels of various capa-
cities, from cups to drink out of, to cafks for containing the milk
of their rein-deer. The wood they employ for this purpofe is from
the beech-tree, which is equally beautiful with the maple, when
finely poliflied. From the horns of the rein-deer they manufac-
ture fpoons in a neat manner, which they contrive to ftain very
handfomcly in figures not unlk:llfully defigned. Steel they work
into knives, to which they fix handles, and ornament them in an
elegant manner. We have already fpoken of their fledges ; be-
fides which they build boats in common with the Norwegians
(called Nordma7ids J who inhabit Finmark. Sawing-mills are but
lately introduced amongft them, which will contribute greatly to
the faving of wood : for whereas with the axe, which they be-
ufed, they could only fplit a fcantling into two planks, they can
now by the help of the faw divide it into feveral.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. -8,
SECTION XIX.
Of fotne particular Cujloms avio?ig the Laplanders.
TN this fG<5Hon the reader will find fcveral things mentioned,
which are not touched upon in any other part of this work.
From the time of the ancient Saxons, or the beginning of the
twelfth century, the Laplanders were known by the name of
SkrJt-F'mnt ; and from that period to the prefcnt hav'e invariably
obferved their original cuftoms and manners.
It is ufual with them, as in the Eaft, never to wait on a fupe-
rior without a prefent. If a Laplander has occafion to attend a
magillrate, or his clergyman, he brings with him either a checfe,
a hare, partridge, fea or river fifti, a lamb, fome venifbn, a rein-
deer's tongue, butter, a quantity of down feathers, or fomething
of the like kind. In return for his prefent, he never goes back
empty, but receives either Ibme tobacco, or a bottle of mead, a
keg of beer, fome ginger and fpices, or, in fliort, whatever is at
hand which may be fuppofed acceptable. The fame cuftom pre-
vails amongft the Mufcovites.
The Laplanders formerly made ufe of a , ftick called priimjiave,
by way of almanack, on which were marked the feveral fcftivals
and principal days of the year.
Vol. II. O o The
232 GENERAL REMARKS
The midwife's office, throughout Lapland, is generally per-
formed by the hufband.
The paflor, or parfon of the place, is for the moft 'part god-
father to all the children of his parifli ; befides which, he does
the duties of parifh fchoolmafter and churchwarden.
When occafion requires the whole family to leave the tent, if
there happen to be a child too young to follow the reft, it is put
into a cheft, and tied with a cord, that it may do itfelfno mif-
chief by fire, or otherwife : or, if the child be above three years
old, it is faftened with a ftrap by the foot, to a ftake driven into
the ground in fome convenient part of the hut or tent.
When the Laplanders meet, they embrace each other, crying
out buur'ifl ! which is as much as to fay, God fave you !
The women fhave the heads of their children quite clofe ; and
contrary to the practice of the ladies in all other countries, to
ufe the miffionary's expreffion, llippe de lyjke med en knlv : which
words, though very much approaching the Englifla language, will
be perhaps unintelligible, unlefs I tranflate them ; for doing which
I hope I fliall be pardoned by the reader. The meaning of the
miffionary's expreffion is, that the good women of Lapland cut
their children s lice with a knife and kill them.
As a remedy for pains in the limbs, they put a couple of liga-
tures about the part, and to the fpace betwixt them apply a burn-
ing firebrand, which they affirm never fails of giving relief.
No horfes are employed in Weft Finmark, the labour every-
where elfe performed by thofe ufeful animals, being there done by
men.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 283
men. In this refpcd: the mountain Laplanders arc better accom-
modated, as they ufe their rein-deer for that purpofe. Since agri-
culture is not attended to, except on fome few fpots near the river
Alten, the Laplanders confume by fire all the dung colledcd from
their cows, flieep, and goats.
Thofe who by traffic have acquired wealth, have a cuftom of
burying their money in the earth ; and this they do fb fecretly
and effectually, that their heirs or fucceflbrs rarely find it. That
they fliould preferve it thus whilft they live, is not furprizing, be-
caufe they have no iron chefts, or other fecurity againft thieves ;
but that they fliould conceal it from their pofterlty is a matter, our
miffionary confeflcs, he is not able to account for. He heard of a
rich man, who, on having the queftion put to him on his death-
bed, why he had fo carefully concealed his money from his fa-
mily ? replied, that he fliould have occafion for it in the country
whither he was going.
In fome parts of Finmark the Laplanders make ufe of the hot
bath, Iprinkling their heads at the fame time with the hot water,
through the medium of a bunch of rods.
O o 2 SECTION
iH GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XX.
Of Lapland Cotirtjhip and Marriages.
TT rarely happens that the natives of Norway intermarry with
the Laplanders. The miffionar}' Leems obferves, that he never
knew an inftance of the kind during his long acquaintance with
Lapland,
When a Laplander has an inclination to marry a young female
of his nation, he communicates his wifli to his own family, who
then repair in a body to the dwelling of the parents of the girl,
taking with them a quantity of brandy to drink upon the oc-
cafton, and a flight prefent for the young woman ; for inftance,
a girdle ornamented with filver, a ring, or fomething of the like
kind. When they come to the door of the hut in which fhe
lives, the principal fpokefman enters firft, followed by the reft
of the kindred, the fuitor waiting without until he fhall be in-
vited to enter. As foon as they are come in, the orator fills out
a bumper of brandy, which he offers to the girl's father, who, if
he accepts of it, fiiews thereby that he approves of the match
about to be moved for. The brandy is handed round, not only
to
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 285
to the girl's father and mother, and her friends aflembled toge-
I ther, but likewifc to the intended bride ; and in the courfe of this
compotation leave is obtained for the young man to forward his
fuit in his own perfon. The orator then in a fet fpcech makes a
beginning ; and in this ftage of the courfhip the lover is himfclf
introduced, but takes his feat at a diftance from the reft, placing
himfelf near the door. The parents of the girl at length fignifying
their full confent to the match, the fuitor offers the maiden the
prefent he has brought with him, and at the fame time promifes
wedding clothes to her father and mother. Matters being thus
happily fettled, the company depart. The ceremonial, as it is here
put down, is commonly obferved, in the whole, or in part, upon
thefe occafions ; indeed, it rarely happens that any of them are
omitted. Should it be the cafe that the parents, after having
thus given their confent, depart from their word ; it is an eftab-
liflied law amongft the Laplanders, that all the expences in-
curred muft be made good, even to the brandy drunk at the firft
vifit.
As foon as the parties are betrothed, the young man is allowed
to vifit the intended bride; and on his way, to enjoy this happi-
nefs, he fometimes recreates his mind with fmging fongs of his
own compofition in her praife. Love never fails to make poets ;
the Laplander's poetry, indeed, furnifhes no fpecimens of elegant
effufions ; he paints his love in the thoughts which firft prefent
themfelves, and cares not much about felcdion : the words he
ufes relate to his pafTion, and that is fufficicnt for his purpofe.
Nor
286 GENERAL REMARKS
Nor can it in truth be faid to be always the cafe, that he fings
upon thefe occafions ; but whenever he is in the prcfence of his
beloved, though he fhould forbear to fing, he does not fail to offer
to her whatever he thinks will be moft acceptable, whether
brandy, tobacco, or any thing elfe. On the day of the nuptials
the bride appears dreflcd in her gala habit ; with this difference,
that whereas her head is commonly clofc covered at other times,
upon this occafion her hair is left to flow loofe upon her fhoul-
ders ; and flie wears a bandeau of different coloured fluffs, and
fometimes a fillet. The marriage ceremony over, the nuptials
are celebrated in a frugal manner and without fhow. Such of
the guefts as are invited, and are of fufficient ability to do it,
make the bride a prefent of money, rein- deer, or fomething to-
wards a {lock.
In fome parts of Lapland it is the cuftom, a few days after
the marriage, for the relations and friends of the newly married
couple, to meet and partake of an entertainment, which is but
an homely one, as it confifts of meffes of foup, or broth, with a
little roafl mutton, and fome metheglin ; which being all con-
fumed, the guefts afterwards take their departure. Mufic and
dancing are entirely unknown amongll the Laplanders, on theic
or any other feftivities ; nor are they even acquainted with the
ufe of any one mufical inftrument ; and feem to be totally inca-
pable of learning to fmg in tune.
The bridegroom generally remains with the parents of his bride
during the fpace of one year after marriage, and at the expiration
1 of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 287
of that period he takes his departure, with a view of fettUng him-
felf in the world ; for this purpofe he receives from them what
by their circumflances they are enabled to give him towards
an eftablifhment, fuch as a few flieep, a kettle, with fome other
articles, which, though of but little intrinfic value, are yet eflen-
tially neceflary in the domeftic economy of the Laplander.
SECTION
288 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XX[.
Of Sports and Amufements.
nr'HE Laplanders do not obferve Chriflmas as a feftival ; nor
have they any fimilar days that they particularly diftinguifti.
They know nothing, or very little, of playing at cards. They
exercife themfelves in throwing at a mark with a javelin : the
prizes in tbefe games, for thofe who come neareft the mark, are
fometimcs pieces of money, at other times tobacco, or fuch like
articles. Befides this diverflon, they have another with a leathern
ball fluffed hard, which is flruck in the air, and caught before it
falls to the ground.
A certain amufement called gaafefpil, or the game of fox and
gecfe, is in great requeft with them. This is played by two par-
ties, on a board marked with fquare divifions for the purpofe ; one
of the parties managing thirteen pegs, called geefe, about this la-
byrinth ; and, as may be imagined, in the dexterity of purfuit and
efcape confifts the fkill of the players.
Leaping over a ftick held in an horizontal pofition by two Lap-
landers, is another diverfion with which they pafs their time.
Sometimes two Laplanders, having each of them a ftick in his
hands, from the end of one a rope being extended to the other,
will
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 289
win ftrive to difcngage the fiick from each other's grafp ; and in
this, perhaps, tliey are afiiftcd on each ildc by an equal number of
the by-ftanders : tr.is occafions a fmart llruggle, till at Icn.o'th the
rope breaks, or the vvcakclc party gives way, which at once de-
cides the contcll ; when the wager, for there generally is one dc-
pending on the event, is determined, the prize is afTigned to the
victor. Another cxercife confifts in two of thera faftening their
hands in each other's belt, ftriving to raiie one another from tht
ground, and thus to give each other a fall. They are befides ex-
pert wreftlers; and thefe kind of exercil'es are found neccirary to
keep their bodies warm, as well as to fill up their intervals of
leifure, when they arc upon a journey, during the lloppagcs re-
quifite to be made to give their rein-deer an opportunity of bait-
ing ; for which purpofe, as has already been obferved, thofe ani-
mals muft dig up the fnow in queft of mofs, as it is not poffible
to carry forage with them in their fledges.
They are in general excellent markfmen ; and fome of them
have been known to hit a fmall objed; with a bullet fired from
their pieces, at a confiderable diftance ; and that for a number of
times repeatedly, without a fingle failure.
Vol. ir. P p SECTION
290 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XXI L
Of the D'lfeafes to which the Laplmiders arc fuhje61, and the Reme-
dies they ufe — Of their Funerals.
^1 ^HE fmall-pox has at times proved very fatal in Lapland, but
has not made its appearance there for many years. In ge-
neral the Laplanders enjoy the beft poffible Hate of health, and
excepting the head-ach, and a few flight diforders, may be faid to
be free from difeafes. Inward complaints they pretend to cure by
fwallowing the blood of the feal and rein-deer as warm as poffible.
The tooth-ach they likewife relieve by drinking the feal's blood :
this is but a late remedy, for formerly they knew no other appli-
cation than a fplinter from a tree ftruck with lightning, with
which the difeafed tooth was to be touched. It is remarkable
that the teeth of the Laplanders are often corroded by worms,
and that in a manner unknown to the inhabitants of other cli-
mates.
Their method of cure for a difeafe of the eyes, called the piri and
"joelj, w^hich is an imperfedl ftage of a catara£t, is {ingular and cu-
rious, and hence is recommended by the miffionary to the Danifli
faculty of phyficians : it is effected by the introduftion of the pe-
diculus himanus (common loufe) within the eyelids, which, by
'its;
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 291
its irritation upon the ball of" the eye, they believe fufficient to
rub off the membrane, and remove the caufe of the complaint.
Chilblains may be iuppofed no unfrequent diforder with the
younger part of the Laplanders ; and this, as well as fpafms and
contractions of the limbs, from the fevcrity of the cold, is relieved
by an ointment which they extra<ft from the cheefe made of rein-
deer's milk. They heal and foften flefli wounds with the unpre-
pared gum which exudes from the fir-tree. Before they reduce a
diflocated or fra<flured bone, which they do with bandages (am-
putation of limbs being a pradice of w hich they abhor even the
idea), they fwallow, in a drink, a piece of filver, or even brafs,
beaten into a powder ; and they belie^ e this potion to be oi"
great efficacy in forwarding the cure.
We have already mentioned the adual cautery made ufe of by
the Laplanders for pains in the hands and feet. This will bring
to the recolle<5tion of our medical readers the moxa, which has
formerly been tried as a remedy in fits of the gout. The moxa is
a dry vegetable fubftance, brought from China and Japan, not un-
like the common plant mugwort : it is applied to the fkin, and
there fet on fire. What is ufed by the Laplanders for this pur-
pofe is the boletus fomefitarms, Lin. Similar applications were in
ufe during the age of Hippocrates, and even employed by the
prince of phyficians himfelf.
The fmew of the fore legs of the rein-deer is applied as a re-
medy for fprained ancles, or other flrains of the legs, by binding
it round the part aggrieved : but a particular reftridion is to be
P p 2 obferved
292 GENERAL REMARKS
obferved in this method of cure, namely, that the buck's fmews
only are to be applied to the legs of the female Laplander, and
thofe of the doe to the male.
Their funerals are conducted with little ceremony. The body,
flightly wrapped up in a coarfe cloth, is borne to the grave, at-
tended by a fmall convoy of the family and friends of the de-
ccafed ; for whofe entertainment a flight repaft is prepared, which
affords nothing beyond the common fare, except a fmall portion
of metheglin, which is handed about to the company. It was an^
ancient cuftom with the Laplanders to bury thofe who excelled
in fliooting with the bow, or with fire-arms, in the ground confe-
crated to the rites performed in honour of their deities. The fe-
pulchre is no other than an old fledge, which is turned bottom
upwards over the fpot where the body lies buried. It was likewife
ufual formerly to raife a heap of ftones over the dead body ; but
that pracSiice is now laid afide, and the fledge is at prefent the
only monument. Another circumftancc prevailed amongft the
Laplanders before their entire converfion to Chriftianity, namely^
that they placed an axe with a tinder-box by the fide of the corpie,
if that of a man ; and if a woman's, her fciflars and needle; fup-
pofing thcfe implements might be of ufe to them in the other
world. They likewife put up a quantity of provifions with the
dead body, and immediately after the burial of one of the family,
they removed their habitation to another fpot. For the firft three
years after the deceafe of a friend or relation, they were accuf-
tomed, from time to time, to dig holes by the fide of the grave,
5 therein
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 295
therein to depofit either a fmall quantity of tobacco, or fomething
that the deccafed was fondeft of when living. They fuppofed
the felicity of a future ftate to confill in feafting, fmoking to-
bacco, drinking brandy, and fimilar amufcments ; and they be-
lieved that tbefe enjoyments were to be participated in the other
world In a higher degree of perfection than they were experienced
in this. Such was their idea of the blifs to be found in the life
to come, in which they believed their rein-deer, as well as the
reft of the brute creation, w ere to be equal partakers.
It is a rule with the Laplanders, on the birth of a child, to af-
fign a female rein-deer, with all her future offspring, as a provifion
w hen the boy or girl fhall be grown up, which he or fhe becomes
entitled to, however the eftate may be difpofed of at the deceafe
of the parents. By this provifion, the child fometimes becomes
the owner of a confiderable herd.
SECTION
294 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION xxiir.
Of the Gods and Goddejfes which the Laplanders adored before the
IntroduSl'ion of Chriji'ianity .
A LTHOUGH the do6lrines of" chrllllanitj have been pro-
mulgated fince the time of Charlemagne in Norway, the
Laplanders cannot be faid to be chriftians of an older date than
about a century. Before t\ic\x full converjion, fays Mr. Leems, bv
the miffionaries fent amongft them by the crown of Denmark,
they were given to pradlices of the groiTeft idolatry ; and fo I have
been credibly informed they are ftill, though they are at pains to
conceal them from the miffionaries.
There will be little difficulty in believing this, when it is con-
fidered how^ much more eafy and natural it is for a people like
the Laplanders, with circumfcribed conceptions, and in a flate of
perpetual flu6luation from place to place, to believe in corporeal
and limited deities in preference to one fpiritual and omnipotent.
That train of thinking which inevitably fuits itfelf to man's con-
dition, muft render fuch ignorant people incapable of elevating
their contemplation to the heavens, much lefs are their feeble ap-
prehenfions capable of conceiving a pure fpirit and perfedl intel-
ligence : and further, when we refledl on the imperious influence
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
295
of cuftom, and the incurability of prejudices, we fliall not be fur-
prifed that the Laplanders fliould prefer the polytheifm of their
anceftors even to the chriftian religion.
The deities they worfliipped may be divided into four clafles.
The firft were fuper-ccleftial : thefe were named Rad'wn Atzhie,
and Radien KieJJe. Then followed celcftial : thefe were called
Be'twe, Ailekes, and A'llekes-Olniak. Of the third clafs fome were
fub-celcllial, and inhabitants of air. The chief of thefe was
named Maderatja : this deity was fuppofed to keep the region of
the air neareft the fun ; others that inhabited the region below
the fun, were denominated Maderakka and Horagalles ; thofc nearer
the earth were diftinguiflied by the name of Sarakka and Jukf-
Akka. The deities of this clafs were lo pJaced that they might
be at hand to affift mankind when called upon. The gods of the
fourth and lafl clafs were fubterranean, and dwelt beneath the
earth. Of thofe neareft the furface, were Saiwo, Salwo- Olmak,
Satwo-Guella, and Jabme Akio. Such as occupied the infernal re-
gions, which the Laplanders fuppofed to be in the very bowels of
the earth, were called Rota, Fudno, Muhben, and Paha Engel.
Thefe infernal deities. Rota and the reft, though confidered as
evil-difpofed towards mankind, were neverthelefs worfliipped by
the people ; and poffibly for that very reafon, in order to depre-
cate and avert their malice.
Radien Atzhie, of the clafs of fuper-celeftials, was the chief di-
vinity, or the Jupiter of the Lapland theology ; he held dominion
over all the reft, his name Radien implying fovereign power, and
the
-96 GENERAL REMxVRKS
the addition of Aizh'ie, fignilying a fountain, becaufe he was the
fpring and fource from whence all the reft derived exiftcncc and
power. RadieJi Kiedde was faid to be his only Ion : the father
created nothing, but transferred the power of creation to the fon,
to do with it what was proper. Thefe two deities had power
over thofe of the fccond and third clafles, which, being all divini-
ties difpofed to do good, were highly reverenced by the Lap'
landers. Such notions concerning the fupreme divinity and his
fon, have been attributed not unreafonably to their fuperficial and
imperfed: acquaintance with the chriftian do6lrine.
Beiwc reprefented the fun, the fountain of light and heat,
through whofe bounty their rein- deer were fed. To this deity
there could be no offering fo acceptable as flax. In allufion to
this fuperftition of their pagan anceftors, a verfe is fung by the
children ip Norway at this day :
Leva, leva lin,
Gud ladt fola fkin !
Letfunjhine fiozv,
Andjiax ive vow !
Horagalles was the thunder. This was worfliipped as a god,
becaufe, fenfible of its effeds, they deprecated the wrath of Hora-
galles, left he fliould kill their rein-deer or themfelves.
A'ileies, and Ailekes-Olmak, were two deities to whom the Fri-
day and Saturday in every week were dedicated ; but in this point
there
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 297
there is a difference amongft Laplanders, Tome of them confc-
crating the Friday to the Sarakka (the Lapland Venus), the Sa-
turday to RadleH, and the Sunday to Allekcs.
Maderakka was the protefting goddcfs of the Lapland women,
who invoked her upon all occafions peculiar to their fex. She
was the Lapland Lucina, and had for her hufband Maderatja,
who procreated all things, having that office configncd to hirpi
from Radien-K'tedde. Sarakka was the daughter of Maderakka,
equally adored by the Lapland matrons with the goddefs her mo-
ther ; and Jiikf-Akka was another daughter. She had the care of
the children, which were entrufted to her from the moment of
their birth.
Salwo and Salvco-Qhnak were the gods of the mountains. Thefc
were called upon in cafes of difficulty, and anfvvered thofe who
confultcd them in dreams : they likewife helped the Laplander
on his journeys, and guarded him from precipices or accidents by
the way. Sahvo- Gnelle was the Mercury of the Laplanders : he
conducted the fouls to the fhades below.
TJie part of the earth \i\itxcJabme-Akko dwelt, was c'aWcfS.Jahme-
Aikko-Ah'tmo, or th.t regions of Jabfft£-Aiiko, or death. In thofe
regions the fouls of the departed, furnifhed with new bodies in lieu
of thofe lying in the grave, were in poflefTion of every enjoyment
and dignity which they held on earth, but in a more exalted de-
gree.
Rota was the Lapland Pluto. After him the infernal regions
were named Rota Ah'tnio. To thefe the fouls of bad men were
•Vol. II, Q q baniflicd.
298 GENERAL REMARKS
baniihed, and here they remained without thole hopes held out
to the fojourners in the Jabme-Abimo, jufl mentioned, of one day-
enjoying the fight of Radien, and dwelling with him evermore in
the manfions of blifs. To Rota the Laplanders made application
as their laft refort, when their fupplications appeared not to have
been attended to by the other divinities. They moreover be-
lieved that all difeafes with which men or beafts were afflided,
originated with Rota, and that, as he was equal in power with
the other gods, no relief could be expeded unlefs this malignant
deity was inclined to become propitious.
Thus we obferve among this people, what I believe may be
found in every early ftage of fociety, the acknowledgment of /e-
veral limited and imperfe6l deities. Little refledlion feems necef-
lary to convince us that polytheifm muft have been the moft an-
cient religion among mankind. What religion fo natural to con-
lined and obfcure minds, as that which afcribes particular caufes
for health and ficknefs, plenty and want, profperity and adverfity ?
They moft eafily fuppofe that ftorms and tempefts, peftilence and
famine come from malignant powers; profperous affairs from the
contrary. To them good and ill appear univerfally intermingled
and confounded ; happinels and mifery, wickednefs and benevo-
lence, all advantages attended with difadvantages.
In fuch a ftage of fociety, no paffions but the ordinary affec-
tions of human life can operate. We may as well fuppofe that
the Laplanders inhabited houfes and palaces before caves and huts,
as that they fliould have had a belief in that perfedl Being, who
has
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 399
has beflowed order on the whole frame of nature, rather than m
deities retaining human paffions and appetites, together with cor-
poreal limbs and organs. The evident order of the univerlc, the
proper adjuftment of all things, the defign prevalent throughout
the whole, are totally unknown to them, and objeds about whicli
they are quite regardlefs. This general plan, to their limited con-
ceptions, is full of contrariety, and appears to be a conftant com-
bat of oppoiite powers. To-day, prosperity; to-morrow, ad verfity ;
naturally beget notions of protection and punifliment ; of bene-
volent and malignant deities.
Even when we have found an infant people believing in one
fupreme God, yet have they not divefled themfelves of an opi-
nion, that all nature was full of other invifible powers ; and the
vulgar of all nations have fuch grofs notions of the Deity, fuppofe
him fo flexible by prayers and entreaties, attribute to him fo
much caprice, abfurdity, and even enormity, as render him in-
finitely below what we afcribe to a man of fenfe and virtue.
One general remark may, I believe, be made of polytheifm ;
that it has little tendency to influence its votaries with apprehen-
fions, terrors, or intolerance. The gloom and darknefs which
almofl inceflantly hang over Lapland, has not communicated to
the religion of its inhabitants either that morofenefs or dejed:ion,
which too much pervaded the perverfion of our moft holy fyfl:em
of divine faith and worfliip during the dark ages. Though the
Laplanders were habituated to facrificcs, yet they appear not to
Q q 2 have
300 GENERAL REMARKS
have been fubjed, to rigid ceremonies, or fevere mortifications ;
though weaknefs and ignorance were prevalent, yet we find little
fear or melancholy.
Where focieties are not operated upon by the terrors of fupcr-
ftition, there fcems little probability that their natural religion
will be much tindured with thofe frightful apprehcnfions of
eternal puniflimcnts, which are repugnant to humanity and coru-
mon fenie.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 301
SECTION XXIV.
Of the Sacrifices offered hy the Laplanders to their Deities.
TTTITH refped to the deities, of which the attributes and
names are contained in the preceding fedlion, as well as
the rites and ceremonies obfcrved in their worfhip, the miffionary
Leems remarks, that he found the Laplanders to vary in different
parts, and on that account has contented himfcif with fcttine
down what he was able to afcertain from his own perfonal obfer-
vation, or could derive from the beft information. Of his com-
munications upon thefc fubje<fls, we hare endeavoured to give our
readers a fliort abftradl. The whole may ferve to eftablifh a truth,
that man unenlightened by the truths of a divine revelation, is led
to pay his adoration to fenfible objeds, either as they promote his
happinefs or interrupt his quiet. Thus the fun, thunder, moun-
tains, lakes, the changes of the feafons, &c. become deities which
he ftrives to propitiate by fuch ceremonies as he fuppofcs in the
fimplicity of his mind are moft likely to anfwcr that purpofe ;
which ceremonies, as he is wholly intent upon the end he pro-
pofes to himfelf to attain by means of them, appear to him very
ferious and important.
Rein-deer, flieep, and now and then a feal, were the animals
chiefly
302 GENERAL REMARKS
chiefly offered by the Laplanders to their gods. Libations fome-
times were made with milk and whey; and occafionally they alfo
made offerings of cheefe.
The ceremonies ufed by them in the performance of this \vor-
fliip, were manifold and various, and all thought to be indifpen-
fably neceffary. When they facrificed an animal, fometimes the
whole was offered up ; at other times only a particular part. It
alfo fometimes happened, that the animal was flain and the whole
eaten by themfelves, in which cafe the bones were made an offer-
ing to the deity of the place, and were left on the fpot that the
deity might clothe them with flefh, and reftore life to the vidlim.
Staves were fprinkled vk ith the blood .of the viftim, and left on
the fpot ; and if the place of facrifice was near a lake or river, the
blood was mingled with its waters.
When they had chanced to take a bear, it was partly dreffed
and eaten, and the liver refcrvcd and confecrated as a burnt-of-
fering.
To conciliate the favour of their deities for their children, pre-
fents were made to the gods of different kinds. Whilfl the infant
was yet unborn, they facrified a fliecp or deer ; in the moment of
its birth a dog was deftroyed in honour of the deity, by burying it
alive ; and when the child was at the breaft, fome other animal
was killed for the fame purpofe.
Libations of brandy were made to the lares or houfehold gods,
whofe abode was fuppofcd to be under the fire place. The beill:-
ings of a cow, if flowing from the firfl time of her calving, was
offered.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 303
ofFcred, by pouring it on the ground within the part of the tent
where their cattle were folded. On any change of habitation, an
offering was made of milk, to conciliate the favour of tlic dcitv
who was the guardian of the place.
They alfo had recourfe to facrifices upon occafion of any epi-
demic diforder difcovering itfelf among them, or any diflemper
breaking out amongft their cattle. Such offerings were ufually
made when they went upon hunting or fifhing parties, or on their
return from them if fuccefsfuL Horns, and other parts of the
rein- deer are found in places, fuppofed to have been depofited
there by the Laplanders who have experienced good fortune in the
chace, as offerings to the deity of the place.
Several mountains and a number of rocks were efteemed by
the Laplanders as facred, and held in great veneration. They are
diftinguifhed by the general name oi pajfe-ivarck, which means holy
places, and were formerly places of facrifice and religious worfliip.
It is to be obferved, that thefe rocks and mountains were remark-
able for the Angularity of their fliape, height, or figure, and con-
fequently excited ideas of awe and reverence in the minds of a
fimple uninformed people, inhabiting a country vifited but for a
fhort feafon by the chearful rays of the fun, and buried during
the greateft part of the year in fnow, with little other light than
what they derived from the pale beams of the moon, or the
brighter corrufcations of an aurora borcalis.
Two of thele mountains are known at this day by the appella-
tion of the greater and the Icffer Flwie-kirke, given them by the
2 inhabitants
304 GENERAL REMARKS
inhabitants of Norway ; names apparently derived froni the fuper-
flitious pradlices of the ancient inhabitants of the country ; though
from the difficulty of afcent thefe mountains would feem to be
inconvenient for the purpofcs of a place of worfliip. There could
be, therefore, no other inducement for making them the feat of
their dcvotion.s, than the religious horror which they imprefled on
the minds of a weak, fuperftitious people.
The veneration for thefe pajje-warck has not yet entirely dif-
appeared : fome Laplanders vifit them yearly in their bell clothes,
and though they offer no frefli facrifices, they are careful to leave
tlic bones of former offerings untouched. On no account will
they pitch their tents in the neighbourhood of thefe facred fpots,
left they fliould dillurb the deities with the cries of their children,
or other noifcs. When they pafs them, they conduct themfelves
with the utmoft reverence : they would not attack a fox, a bear,
or any other animal, near thefe places ; and if a woman be in
their company, flie is under the neceflity of turning her head
afide, and covering her face with her hands.
The ordinary fcafon with the Laplajiders for offering up facri-
fices, was about the clofe of the autumn, when they were killing
their fat cattle fpr the winter's ftore ; befides thefe, they fhowed
their devotion upon extraordinary occsfions, atid as necefTity re-
quired.
No woman was allowed to have any (Concern in the preparation
or fqlemnization of , thefe facrifices; they were ezclufively per-
formed by a privileged clafs of men amongfl the Laplanders,
called
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 305
called Noaatds. In this office of facrificing they dlfcovered great
dexterity, and on that account were diitinguiflied by the Danifti
name of hlodntander, or men of blood. They knew how to fepa-
rate and divide the different parts of the animal, according to the
nature of the facrifice, and the deity it was intended for. Upon
thefc occafions they conflantly wore a particular habit.
Thofe ads of worfliip, occafioning a great redudlion of their
flock of cattle, often brought the Laplanders to a fituation of
mifery and want : as the mountain Laplanders, when attacked
by the fmall-pox or the meafles, with difficulty got over thefe
diforders, owing to the pores of their fkins being rendered imper-
vious by the dirt and fmoke in which they lived, they made
numerous facrifices of rein- deer during their illncfs, fometimes to
the number of twelve rein-deer to one pcrfon. Now thefe people,
obferving that the converts to chriftianity appeared to rid them-
felves of all complaints, by merely figning themfelves with a crofs,
were eafily difpofed to adopt that religion. But as the God of the
chrifllans feemed to them only to have provided for their happi-
nefs hereafter ; and was, moreover, too mild and gracious to affiidl
them with difeafes, they flill confidered it to be their interefl,
occafionally to continue their facrifices to the gods of their fore-
fathers, in order to relieve themfelves from ficknefs and the evils
of this prefent ftate ; and herein they feem to have refembled the
Samaritans mentioned in the New Teflament, who worfliippcd
the God of Ifrael, and the idols of the Gentiles at the fame time.
This in fbme meafure accounts for the Laplanders being only fully
Vol. II, R r converted
3o6 GENERAL REMARKS
converted to Chrlftianity fo lately : for it is certain that the truths
of this rehgion had been preached amongft them as early as the
middle of the ninth century, there being flill extant a refcript of
the Emperor Ludovicus Pius, who lived at that time, for this
purpofe, wherein the Laplanders are exprefsly mentioned by the
name of Skrit Finni.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAl'LAND. 30/
SECTION XXV.
Of the Magic Art ■praBi'ifcd by the Laphinders : Runic Drum,
Game Flics, Jiioigc, and Noaaid.
r I ^HE magic art is faid to have been introduced in the North
"*" by Odin, who brought it with him from the Eaft, and in-
ftrudled the Finni ; which people becoming great proficients in
the art of directing the agency of fjiirits, obtained the name in
thefe countries of Finne-kunjl, that is to fay, the fcience of the
Fins. The early chronicles of Norway record the extraordinary
feats of magic performed by tlicir kings Haldan and Gunner;
how that the firft caufcd a banquet to vanifh from before his
guefts, and that the lafi:, by his invifibic agents, procured fuch in-
telligence of the fecrct pradiices of his enemies, as to enable him
to fruftrate all their dcfigns. They make mention likcwife of
Eric Windus, a king of Sweden, who could change the v\ind
with a turn of his hat; and of Slwald, another SwediOi monarch,
who had feven fons all equally fkllful in the arts ot magic.
It is unneceflary to mention the great knowledge which the
female fex have attained to in this fcience : there is fcarccly a
pcrfon who has not heard of Lapland witches. A forccrefs pro-
tiuccd a number of infernal fpirits before Iladin, a king of Xor-
V\ r 2 \\ av.
3o8 GENERAL REMARKS
way, and another named Kraka prepared a mefs of pottage of
fuch admirable virtue, that it would have rendered his fon Rollo
•wife and eloquent, if, unfortunately for him, it had not been in-
tercepted and eaten up by his younger brother Eric, who thereby
obtained the benefit defigned for his elder brother, and afterwards
got the crown for himfelf. In fliort, there would be no end of
reciting the various ftorles which ancient writers have left of the
magicians, male as well as female, in paft times. Mr. Lecms
therefore confines his narrative to the prefent ftate of the magic
art in Lapland.
The vifible infirument of magic, as now practifed in Lapland,
is the runic drum ; and the invifible agents employed in this are
called game ji'ies. The mlffionary fliews the ufc made of each of
thefe, and gives fomc account of the ISoaa'id, or regular bred ma-
gician, together with the juo'ige, or fong of incantation ufed by
him, and the method he takes to rcflore loft property to its right
owner.
The runic drum, which may be confidered as a compendium
of Lapland paganlfm, has the appearance of the head of a com-
mon drum, the wooden frame of which is hung round with brafs
rings {o dole together, that they ftrike and rattle upon the leall
touch of the inftrument. Upon the fkin which is ftretched over
the drum certain chara6lers are painted, reprefenting the Radien,
or Lapland Jupiter, with the reft of the deities, of whom an ac-
count is given in a preceding fecllon, befides other myftical figures
of animals, &c. to the number of forty-five Symbols. On fome
0 drums
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 309
drums more have been counted ; the Noaaids, or magicians, not
perlcctly agreeing in this rcfpccl: in different parts of Lapland :
they, however, all coincide in the principal or leading deities. The
runic drums arc of the more value as they arc of greater antiquity ;
and if they can be proved to have been delivered from father to
fon, in a long line of fuccceding magicians, they are confidcred
above all price : they are prefcrved with great care and fccrecy,
and are hidden from light, except at the time they are ufed. A
woman dares not to approach the place where one of thefe drums
hcs concealed, much lefs durft Ihe prefume to touch it.
Before a Laplander fets out upon a journey, or undertakes any
matter of moment, he confults his drum, which he does in the
following manner. He places a ring, which is ufed for this pur-
pofe only, upon the drum, and then ftriking upon it a fmart
ftroke with a fmall hammer made from a deer's horn, the ring is
fliaken or driven over the furfoce from, fide to Ude, which, as it
touches certain figures of good or bad omen, he conceives the
better or vvorfe opinion of his fuccefs in what he is about to under-
take. As, for example, if the ring move according to the courfe
of the fun, he pronounces that he fliall fucceed ; if contrarily to
the fun's courfe, that he fliall fail in his enterprize, whatever it
be, of hunting, fifhing, or the like. In the fame manner he judges
of every event upon which he is difpofed to confult this oracle.
Families in general poffefs fuch a drum, to which they refer
for advice in the retirement of their habitation, confidering it as
their guide and dire^lor upon common occafions ; but in matters
of
3IO GENERAL REMARKS
of greater moment, fuch as ficknefs, a mortality amongft the
cattle, or the like, they apply to privileged foothfaycrs or magi-
cians : thelc are called in the Lapland tongue Noaa'tds, and are re-
gularly edacated in the art. Thefe men are completely initiated
by frequent interviews with the fpirits in Jahme-ahno ; befidcs
which, they pretend to be in poflcffion of runic drums which
have defcended to them from anceftors famous in remote times
for their fkill in divination. The Noaaid obferves much the fame
method with that already defcribed, except that he makes ufe of
fome previous ceremonies with a number of ver^^ frightful grimaces
and contortions, in which he is helped out by the immoderate quan-
tity he takes of brandy and tobacco during his operation. By the
effeft of thcfe aids to infpiration, he at length becomes fo intoxi-
cated, that he falls into a deep fleep, which the ftanders by fup-
pofe to be a trance. When he awakes he pretends that his foul
has been conveyed away to fome pajj'e-voarck, or holy mountain,
which he mentions by name, and attempts to reveal his interwiew
and difcourfe \\\\.\\ the deities. At the fame time he names a
facrifice \\ hich muft be otJered en a certain day, confifting, for the
moil: part, of a well fed rein-dccr; and this being complied with,
he encourages the hopes that the deity who is concerned will prove
favourable. The Noaaid's injund:ion never fails to be obeyed ;
and if the facrifice of a valuable rein-deer be not fucceeded by the
goods effects which are hoped for from it, the flmple Laplander
(like thofe poor unhappy people who run for a cure trom one doc-
tor to another, until they have expended the lafc farthing of their
money)
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 311
money") has rccourle to another Noaaid, and another. Now, as
ever}' confultatlon is followed by a fat facrlfice, at which the glut-
tonous foothfayer prefldes as butcher and principal gueft, it hap-
pens that the poor Laplander finds himfclf fuddcnly reduced to
want, his ftock of cattle being wafted in riotous fcenes of fuper-
ftitious infatuation.
The giViicJIies arc evil fpirits entirely under the diredion of the
Noaaid, and ready at all times to execute his orders: they have
been dehvered over to him by the Noaaid his father, who received
them from his, and fo on through a long ferics of magicians.
Thefe ganic flies arc invifible to all but the magician, who keeps
them fliut up in a box until he has occafion for their fervices.
T\\Q. jjio'igc, or fong of incantation, is ufed by the Noaaid whilft
in the exercife of his magical function. To fay it is fung, is to
give an imperfe6l idea of the magician's manner of delivering it,
which he does in the moft hideous kind of yelling that can be
conceived. It is alfo frequently emplo}cd by thofc who are not
profeffed magicians ; for the juoige is fuppofed to have the power
to drive away the wolf, and is confidercd as a proteeflion for the
herd. Indeed, if the wolf be within hearing when they fing it,
it is no wonder that he fliould be frighted away by the noife.
The words of this fong are very fun pic ; we here prefcnt them to
the reader, accompanied with an exacft tranflation :
Kumpi don ednak vahag kk dakkam
Ik flijat kalka dam packeft orrot
Mutto
312 GENERAL REMARKS
Mutto daft erit daakkaa
Maiime kisetzhjai mannat,
la don kalkak dai
Pazhjatallah, dacheke jetzhja lakai hsewanet.
Accurfed wolf! far hence away!
Make in thefe woods no longer ftay :
Fly hence ! and feek earth's utmofb bounds,
Or perifti by the hunter's wounds.
The method taken by the Noaaid to recover flolen goods is no
more than this. He comes into the tent where he has reafon to
fufpeft the thief is to be found, and pouring a quantity of brandy
into a dilh, which then refledls the features of any perfon looking
into it, he makes a number of grimaces over it, and appears to
confider it with very great attention. After fome length of time
employed in this way, he takes the fufpe<3:ed Laplander afide,
charges him with the facft, declares that he faw his face plainly
figured to him in the difh, and threatens to let loofe a fvvarm of
ganic flies upon him, who Ihall torment him until he makes ref-
titution. Thus does the magician work upon the fears and ap-
prehenfions of the fufpecled perfon, who, if he be the real thief,
never fails to replace whatever he has flolen with the fame fecrecy
as he took it away.
The egregious folly of believing that certain perfons were en-
dowed with fupernatural power, and that they were affifted by
invifible Spirits, was univerfal foon after the ellablifhment of
Chriftianity,
CONCERNING LATLAND. 313
Chriitianity, and began not to be generally difcrcditcd till the
Sixteenth century. In England wc even find witchcraft fupportcd
by royal authority : by James I. countenanced by the great Lord
Bacon. The belief in fpirits, not Icfs abfurd, even the vigor-
ous mind of Dr. Johnfon was not exempt from. But tliefe ridi-
culous, mifchievous, and cruel delufions, arc happily banlflied
almoft from the habitations of the moft ignorant, and we already
begin to wonder at the credulity of our anccflors.
Vol.. II. , Ss SECTION
;i4 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XXVI.
Of tJi& jlrong Attachment of the haplanders to their native
Country.
^ I ^HE miffionary Lecms, on a review of the ftate and condition
of the Laplanders, acknowledges, that their fituation is in-
cxpreffibly hard and full of trouble : yet he obfcrves that being
enured to this kind of life from their early years, their attachment
to their native country is greater than that of nations who live in
the enjoyment of every convenience and comfort ; in proof of
which, he gives an account of a commiflion which he received in
a perfonal interview from his Danifh Majefty, Chriftian VI, to
fend a young Laplander to his court at Copenhagen, and the ex-
treme difficulty he found in executing it. This interview being
fo important a pafTage in the miffionary's own life, he relates it
with great circumflantiality. It was an interefling period ; for
the time of his being presented to his majefty very nearly coincided
with that of his taking unto himfelf a wife.
In the beginning of July 1733, he had gone to Aalfund in the
province of Sund-Moeria Aletha-Rubergia : it was jufl three weeks
after his marriage, when he was prefented to the king by Admiral
Rofenpalm. His majefty, who had received a very favourable
account
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 315
account of his labours, took down his name In his memorandum
book, and gave him a promifc of future preferment in the church,
which, in December, next year, he faithfully fulfilled, by promot-
ing him, after being ten years a mlflionary in Lapland, to the rcc-
torfliip of the vacant parifli of y\ugwaldfnefs, in the dioccfe of
Chrifi;ianfand.
The king, in his progrcfs through Norway, in the fummcr of
1733, was detained for fome time in the harbour of Aalfund by
flrefs of weather. He fent for Mr. Leems, and put a number of
queflions to him concerning the ftate of the Laplanders, the com-
merce of Finmark, the fuccefs of the chriftian miffion in thofe
parts, and other matters : to which queftions the miflionary re-
plied according to the befl of his ability and information, with all
due reverence to his majefty's perfon. At laft the king gave him
a commiffion to get fome young man among the Laplanders, and
to fend him to Copenhagen to him as foon as poflible.
But who, fays the miflionary, could believe it poflible that there
fliould be any one who would rejedl an offer that promifed fo de-
firable and fplendid a condition of life } Yet this was really the
cafe. Application was made to numbers of individuals among
the Lapland youth to go to court, where they would be kindly
received and taken care of by the king — but in vain. At length,
however, a young man, called Peter Nicolas Korfnass, was pre-
vailed on to lliffcr himfelf to be taken on board of fliip to Copen-
hagen, though not without very great difficulty. This Nicolas
had nothing remarkable to recommend him, either in his ilaturc
S s 2 or
r'
316 GENERAL REMARKS
or figure. There were feveral youths of more advantageous ap-
pearance whom the miffionary wifhed very much to have fent to
court hi preference to Nicolas Korfna^s : but they were not to
be induced to quit Lapland by any argument or promife. There
was particularly one of the bay of Alten, of uncommon ftature as
well as comelinefs for a Laplander, whom the miffionar}^ prefled
very much to go to the king, and his importunities and promife
of the royal protedlion and favour would, he fays, have fucceeded,
but for the Intervention of the young man's mother. This wo-
man, who was then in a ftate of pregnancy, came to the miffion-
ary and told him, that the curfe of God, as well as her's, would
light on his head, it he fhould tear from her her dear and only
fon, and if any accident Ihould happen to her, whofe time of de-
livery drew nigh, in confequence of the grief and forrow fhe muft
fuffer from that acl of his. The miffionary after this defifled from
all farther perfuafion.
When the young Laplander arrived at Copenhagen, he was
treated with all poffible attention and kindnefs, being handfomely
dreffed, and well entertained ; all which things Mr. Leems de-
fcribes minutely: but in the autumn he was taken ill, and lan-
guiffied till the end of the year, when he died. The miffionary
does not hefitate to afcribe his death to the fudden change of air
and manner of living, and quotes the maxim, that " all fudden
" changes are dangerous." The body of the youth was interred
in a very folemn and honourable manner, and the fine clothes in
which he had been attired by his majefty, were fent for fome fmall
coiifolation to his forrowful parents.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 317
At the fame time that Nicolas was lent to Copenhagen, another
Lapland boy, called Peter Jonas, who lived as a domeftic with
Mr. Leems, was induced, by the promife of many good things,
and not lefs, it may be prefumed, by the example of the youth
who allowed himfelf to be taken to Copenhagen, to go with Ad-
miral Rofcnpalm, with the intention of becoming one of his fca-
men. As the lad did not want capacity, the admiral had him
inftrudled in writing and arithmetic, and fent him on board a
Danifh Eafl Indiaman, that he might learn the art of navigation.
He made one voyage to India, but died loon after his return to
Copenhagen.
SECTION
3i8 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XXVII.
Some ObfervaUons relative to the Climate and Natural Hijiory of
Lapland.
^"T^HE materials which I have collected on the fubjecft of Lap-
land, are fo numerous and of fo various a nature, that I
might have confiderably increafed the bulk of this work if I had
chofen to incorporate in it every thing I pofTefs. But I fliould
perhaps have abufed the patience of the reader, if I had extended
jny remarks any farther than I have already done. I think it,
therefore, better to keep back what remains, and to produce it at
fome future period, if a fufficient degree of approbation encourage
me to fuch an undertaking. I cannot, however, at prefent take
my leave without communicating the following table, as an au-
thentic piece of information, which may afford fome light refpedl-
ing the climate of thofe northern diftriAs, through which I have
carried the reader in the foregoing pages. The place to which it
refers is Utsjocki, upon the river Tatia, in Lappmark, fituated under
O9 degrees 53 minutes north latitude; and perhaps no obferva-
tions of the kind have ever been made farther to the northward.
This table was given me by Mr. Julin, who had fuggefted the
idea of making fmiilar remarks to the Rev. Mr. Caftrein (brother
8 of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 3,9
of the Caftreln of Keml, whom we have mentioned before) ; and
the hitter gentleman, bemg fond of natural hiflory, and acquainted
with its principles, was well able to latisfy the curiofity of Mr.
Julin.
Ohjervaiions made hi the PariJJi of Utsjdcki, in Lappniari, Qq° 53'
North Latitude, in the Years 1 7Q5 and 1797,
By Samuel Castrein :
Co/kJIed and arrafiged by J. Julik, of UJeahorg.
1. Meteorological Ohfervations.
The fun's half dilk feen above the horizon
Firft rain fell — —
The ice difappeared on the river Tana
The lakes were free from ice —
Night- frofts began — —
The rivers froze — —
The lakes froze — —
The ground covered with fnow —
The fun under the horizon —
2. Calendariiim Fau7ia XJtsjohnfis.
The following birds arrived : 1795. 1/97.
Emberiza nivahs — — Apr. 4. Apr. 1 1 ,
Falco chryfaetos — — — Apr. 4. Apr. 1 1 .
Anas
1795.
1797.
Jan, 21.
Jan. 21.
Apr. 30.
May 5.
June 3.
June 5.
—
June 2'^
July 15.
Oct. 12.
Oct. 18.
Oct. 20.
Oct. 25.
Nov. 3.
Nov. 20,
Nov. 18.
320 GENERAL REMARKS
Anas cygnus — —
Motacilla alba — — —
Mergus merganfor — —
Anas elangula — —
Corvus comix — — —
Colymbus ar(fllcus — —
Fring'illa ctelebs — —
Motacilla fiava — —
Alca Alee — — —
Scolopax glottis — —
Cuculus canorus, fings — —
Sterna hirundo — —
Hirundines — — —
3. Calendarhim Flora IJtsjolenJis.
1795.
1797.
Apr. 11.
Apr. -1.
May 0.
May 9.
May 0.
May 10.
May 6.
May 11.
May 18.
May 20.
May 24.
May 25.
May 20.
June 3.
May 29.
May 30.
May 2g.
June 4.
May 30.
June 2.
June 2.
June 0.
June 2.
June 0.
The following plants flowered :
Draba Alpina — —
1795.
June 23.
1797.
June 1 7.
Rubus chamaemorus, et ardicus —
June 24.
Arbutus uva urfi, ct Alpina —
June 2^:
June 17.
Caltha paluftris t
Cornus fuecicas 3
June 30.
June 28.
Troll ius Europasus — ■ —
Viola blflora — — —
July 4.
July 0.
Aftragalus Alpina — —
July 0.
June 29.
Alfine
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 321
ir95. 1797.
July 10. July Q.
Alfine media
Andromeda caerulea
Pedicularis Lapponicus — July 10.
Vaccinia omnia Suec, — — July 15. July 7.
Polygonum viviparum — — July 11. July 8.
Rumex acetofella, et digynus — July 1 1 . July 7.
Diapenfia Lapponica — — July 11. July lo.
Ranunculus acris
Sedum paluftre
Stellaria graminea
Leontodon Taraxacum.
Myofotis fcorpioidcs
Prunus Padus
Saxifraga ftellaris —
Anthericum calyculatum
Lychnis Alpina ~>
Polemonium c^ruleum 3
Geranium lylvaticum, et Alpinum —
Geranium fylvaticum, et pratenfe
Menyanthes trifoliata —
Paris quadrifolia
Campanula rotundifolia .
Galium uliginofum, et boreale
Sorbus aucuparia
,J
July 12.
July 12.
July 11.
July 13.
July 20.
July 1 7.
? July 23.
July 17.
July 27.
July 13.
I July 23.
July 20.
July 29.
July 2r,.
July 30.
July 18.
— Aug. 0.
Aug. 5.
Aug. 7.
Aug. lO.
Rhinanthus crifta galli
Vol. IL T t Parnaffia
322 GENERAL REMARKS, &c.
17Q5. 1/97.
? — Aug. 22.
Parnaffia paluftrls
Euphrafia officinalis
Leontodon autumnale — — Aug- 22. Aug. 20.
Erica vulgaris — — Sept. l6. Sept. 10.
The birch (betula alba) flieds its leaves Sept. 2Q. Sept. 25..
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
CONTAINING,
I. Specimens of Finland and Lap/and Mnjic.
II. A Diary of the Author s Journey from Stockholm to Uleahorg \
thence to the North Cape : and back again.
Appendix.
Runa of the Finlanders.
32S
tf Nu- ko nu , ko pi - CO lin - to
Andante
:rfz
1
^^
riTifzi
Ve , ni ^^.iJ^^ ^^LiJSf ' * - - ^*
^
I
'J
Variation .
a) Having heard this Melody different vays,I here give the
"Variations as I hr*rd them.
N.B.I am indebted to Mr Schwenke,Mufic Mafter of Ham-
l»urg^,for the Bafs of all the foUowinff Tnnes,fome of which
are very Ingenionfly and fcientifically fet .
Vol. II.
Ss
326
Variation .
^^^^^^^m
•'>"■?. 1 1 r
^^m
n^":^r-f^"^^
'' J I rn ■
1
l^*^ I f— ^^
g
Variation .
^^^
^cr I : -M
/'«i
^s
■^ ri ri
-? —
r~i — r^
' / Allegro "Vivace
i
327
''y-\)>c, r *r
5
i_j.
fc
^
^
^
^
3
i J
^
^m
^^^^^^
-^^^
I
E
g^
(a) This is the tune of a Dance of Finlanders played npon
the Harpn; in fnch a limited compafs of Notes, it is inter _
efting; to fee how they can vary their Tunes .
328
This is the Tune of a Song of a Finlandish Peafant Girl
who fung at our particular request at Uleaborg.
,<;,.> .11 ^jj.j rrr 1 1 )^
Andante
•-¥^|! f ^f
1=4=^
r I r r r
■f^^jm-fTT^
1
# — #
hi^'^.r^irrr
j'"' I g f u I r g
^3
9 P — ^
^
i
i2=II^
^
i
♦ #
:fr*
=^^^
:^3
i
#f-
i
^=
Finlanders Dance at the Cottage on the Banks of
the River Leivaniemi.played by a blind Fidler .
3-29
T r T
T" T" ^
^^
T T T r r r
^^^^^^^^^
330
(a) Finlande« D
ance on the Banks of Leivaniemi.
i
^^e
part r/" I °'"''""' *" *" '^"^.A'* fte whol, of a,, firft
part,„d f„„ B„s of .he fec„.d,„e .,adn .h. c„„p.f. of ^e
fte compaf,iaeVaob„,orfteintr„d,ctto„ of «,e Fiddle.infpi-
forttofe^ho are f„„d of mi,>„,e e„<i„iHos ^o„ this f.hiect it
.ed,ha.the,i,f,>t„d„c».e.ide.s..„d changes „y d.^::;: '
fte ch.„c.e, of th. a„cie.t M,.flc. IT^o ftco.d pL h.'^, fte fclw
of havmg: an unequal number of Bars (7) whioh ■ . ,i„
not .0 .e fo rtricay attended to,.s not .ein^ founded on n^utl.
331
Music of the Bear Dance at Kengis.
iJ^H'i 1
m
rr**
I Andantino
^^
rr^
r;frrr4 -^^ J"^ N ^ ^ n^^
3!
n ,/r3
1 Ti
1 — ra
^
IZZIE
333
I
t—^ — ^
The Laplanders cry at Kautokeino
^ mane .
mane.
33'2.
(^)
Alten .
p^r\[i^\\ i\t^\[^^
Allegretto Vivace
f ii - ifflU : I j ; Ijl
%-n
rr%
13
^5
^ffi
♦^i:^
»-#
•r'^'iti^JitiHtiJ
This is originally a Norwegian Tune, which has heen tranf*
planted into Lapland hy the different Colonists fettled there'
from Norway. It is calld a Hailing Dance,which is a favorite
Dance in Norway. There is a great deal of originality in this
Tune, and the fudden transition in the Minor Key is wild an
characteristical .
X
iw
333
Alten .
j)'V^J ffltl^
Allegro
f=f
^
#— t
^
^^^
&^
^
f-f
# — F — 0-
ffe^T^t-^
rrpiPTJ
, (a) This is another Hailing Dance, and ferves for the fame
purpofe of dancing; although not fo fine as the preceding,it
hears a peculiar manner .
i I' If f 'II
VOL.U.
334.
/ 1
Alten .
f^^^^^uuiu^^&jm^'^
Allegro
(a.j This T^ine has very little originality-, and except its hav-
ing" each part of fix. Bars,inftead of eight, -which is more com^
nion,it might be a tolerable Polonaife. As it ftands,the fifth
andfixth Bars, -which form the Cadence of tlie firft part, are
too fudden and nnnataral.
^"'jjfflli7f%<
^:
33S
3333:
Allegro
0-00 0
m
m
0 0 0
j^-^T^1^S
T
zz
SS
^^^M=^F^
%
-=1 ^
^^S^^^
^S
^
bH- r I J -^ i
r
n^ol
rr-w
How Ihis T^inoas tranfplanted fo far North, and in thefe
inhofpitable regions, it is impofsible to tell. Every body ac-
quainted with Mufic will fee that it is neither wild nor odd
enough to be borne beyond the polar Circle. It is regular in
its Cadences, eafy and natural in its tranfitions, and might
be fung in. the Streets of Italy and taken for an Italian Song.
sue
f''r r ••"•"^%£:^-^^^^
VSifj^
mi
ig
m
B
I
d J d
fci
II r^f Oa 1 J J a
^ n
->=VLcr J ir"1^
This Tune, is a Song, and has a very good effect when fung
hy many,"becaufe it is fufeeptihle of accords and accompani -
ments. It is fo simple that we may think it national.althou^
it wants the characteristic Symphony of wild Music .
Engravd ty E.RILEY, No 8,Strai.d.
( 337 )
A DIARY
Of the Author s Journey from Stockholm to Ukhhorg ; thence to Ih.-
North Cape : and bad again.
*^ I "(HE following daily accountof my journey is chiefly intended
-*" for the ufe of future travellers in the fame part oi^ the
world. Such information, though of itfelf uninterefting, I know
from experience, is valuable to thofe that find themfelves in fnnilar
circumftances. It brings them previoufly acquainted with the
objeAs they are to encounter, keeps their attention more vigilant,
and may lead them to make additional obfervations, which they
would probably pafs over, if every thing they met with were to-
tally new, and as fuch intruded upon their notice. It may like-
wife ferve as a fort of index to the foregoing work, or as a com-
panion to the map.
The diftances are given in Swedifli miles, of which 10
2-fifths arc equal to one degree of the equator : confequently the
proportion of a Swedifh to an Englifli mile is as lo 2-fifths
to fixty-nine ; for fixty-nine Englifli miles are reckoned to a de-
gree of the equator : therefore one Swedifli mile contains nearly
Vol. II. Z z feven
338 JOURNEY FROM
fevcn Englifh. The miles of Norway are fllU larger than thofe
of Sweden, and one is about equal to eight or nine Englifh.
In the column of the expences it may perhaps occur, that
they are not fo great as might have been imagined from what
was faid in the firfi; chapter ; but the difference of travelling is
to be taken into confideration. There we fpoke of a gentleman
travelling in his own carriage, and in fummer ; whereas the Diary
refers to the winter time, when the cheapeil of all conveyances,
viz. the fled2;es, are in ufe. A Swcdifli fkilling is rather more
than an Englifh penny ; and forty-eight {killings make a rix-dol-
lar, which is about equal to four fliillings and fix- pence Englifli.
The expences are calculated for a fingle gentleman who wants
two fledges, one for himfelf, and one for his fervant and luggage,
with an attendant to each, who is to take back the fledges and
horfe. Befides this, he muft unavoidably have a courier, whom
he may fend on before him to bcfpeak horfes ; for the horfes are
fometimes brought together from different houfes that may be
three or four miles diffant from one another ; and if they were
not ordered before hand, a very great lofs of time would be oc-
cafloned by conftantly waiting for them : fuch an avant courier
is, in Swedifli, caWtd for biui. The attendants are in general pea-
fants. It is not abfolutely required to pay thefe people any thing
befidcs the hire of the fledges and horfes ; but it is cuftomary
7 to
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 339
poftboys and drWcs of coaches m England. _
When 1 rpeaU of a night's lodging at the pcafan ts houfcs, t
eolnaaes,itistohe.nd„aoodthat,™a.fn™.e..h
. ,=a, conf-mng of a .attrefs. blanUcts, and a cove. n.a c of ca
:,a„h.f..s:.hc.a.no.ectstohchad. Fue, and finng .
in great plenty every vvherc.
Sockholm
;4C
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm i „
and Uleaborcr, through ^"^.^f^'*
Finland. "" ^ miles.
Stockholm.
Euftad ,
Oftby.
Hall.
Killande.
Krakftad.
Swamberga.
Tcfiinge.
n
H
-Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cehius.*
Expences in
Swedifli Money.
Set off at 7 The Avcather
o'clock in the dark and
morning* j gloomy.
March iSth.jTher, 8°o.f
A thaw
about noon.
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges I
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges I
3 men
|Rix-d. skil.
0 42
O
O
1
O
0
o
o
0
4
9
0
4
9
24
4
9
Arrived at
midnight ;
departed at
the very be-
ginning of
March 10.
T W. a. Ib,s %n o figr„fies below the free: "
About mid-
night. 6° o.
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
O 27
O 4
O 9
O 24
O 4
0 9
24
4
9
O 39
O 4
0 9
m., and the afternoon by o ;
zing point ; 6 above it.
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 34'
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
t^7^^Z^, a reat of .he ,uee„ ao«ge. but leave .t
on the left. ^ try is varied with
' Ud here prefent in fummer fon,c pleafing landfcapes.
0;^^-;La/ha„....ha^...-;^^^^^^^^^^
the traveller may in fome degree be accom
thence is hilly. r v oc ;t ;«
W. Here you may get a night's lodgmg, fuch as ,t .s.
«»*is a han„et of four o,- five houfes.. no acco,™odaf.o„ for
travellers.
^ , r ^+'c Vinnfe • no accommodation.
Krakpd, a fingle peafant s houle , no
.w... a pea.nt's hou^ ^--tr:^tt:::^^-^^"
Jerven, which is farrounded with a wood
..rt be plearant in the ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^, , _,. ,.n-
F#«l^ : two or three peafant s houfes, not
gers.
Griflehamn
42
JOURNEY FROM
Slacjcs between Stockholm
and Lleabors; though
r inland.
Griflehamn.
Sigiiilfkar.
Ekcro. .
Swedifh
Miles.
Frebbenby
Enkarby. .
Haraldiby.
H
Arrival and
Departure.
March ig.
Arr. 1 a. m.
Dep. 9 a. m
Arr. 5 p. m,
Arr. 72 p. m
Arr. 9 p. in
Departed
March 20th
7 a. m.
State ot the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celfius.
F.xpences in
Swedifti Money.
3°o
on the fea.
7°o
Wind S. W.
S^o
4"o
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
6 horfes
2
24
4 fledges
0
16
6 men
0
24
3 horfes
1
0
2 fledges
0
4
3 men
0
9
3 horfes
0
30
2 fledges
0
4
3 men
0
9
3 horfes
0
30
2 fledges
0
4
3 men
0
9
3 horfes
0
30
2 fledges
0
4
3 men
0
9
O J8
O 4
O 9*
* This being fo fliort a fiage, two (killings might be enough for each driver; but it is
hardly worth while to notice fuch trifles.
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. ■ 343
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Gnjlehainn is the poft-houfe (ii brick building) where the paflciifjcrs
that travel this way to go to Finland, either in winter or fummcr,
generally flop: the road lies acrofs the Tea. In fiinHncr there are
always pod-boats ready to convey the travellers; and in winter, when
the ice is (Irong enough to bear, fledges and horfcs are here furnilhed.
It is to be obfcrved, that at this place you are obliged to take double
the number of horfcs to what you had before : there is a telegrajjii
at Griflehamn.
Slgni^Jkar is a rock, or finall ifland, the fird of the kind you meet in
crofTlng the fca. There is a telegraph, which correfpouds with the
one at Griflehamn.
Ekero is another of that clufter of iflands, known under the name of
Aland. This ifland is of eonfiderable extent; it confifts of fixtv
hemjnari, let to diflerent families. Heniman means an eftate of land
belonging to the crown, and farmed by the peafants ; there is a
church, fifty windmills, a great quantity of wood and corn.
Frehhenhy confilts of only two houfes ; one dedined for travellers, and
the other inhabited by peafants.
Enkarhy ; a few houfes without any accommodations for pafTcngers.
The country is hilly, and confequenlly the road uneven.
Harald/by, a fmall village, fituated on an eminence, and confpicuous by
ibme windmills. The way lies clofe by the caftle of Cadelholmen,
famous for having been the prifon of Eric XIV. It is built upon a
rock, at the extremity of a neck of land that juts out into the fea.
Skorpas
J44
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockliolm
and Uleaborg through
Finland.
Swedifh
Miles.
Skorpas
Vergata . .
Kumlinge
Brando. .
Varfala . .
Helfing
Himois.
Laitis
li
3i
24
21
11
U
Ai rival and
Uei>arture.
March 20.
Arr. noon.
Arrived at
midnight.
Staid March
21 and 22.
Dep. March
23, 9 a. m.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cellius.
The weather
dark and
^rloomy, yet
not foggy :
a thaw.
The weather
cleared up,
with a froft
of 14°o from
12° to 7°o
7°o
9°o
Expences in
Swediflj Money.
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
1 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
O 30
O 4
O p
O
O
o
18
4
9
1 30
O 8
0 12
1 12
O 6
0 9
1 12
o 6
o 9
I O
O 4
o 9
O 36
O 4
o 9
O 30
O 4
O 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 345
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Siorpas confifis of three or four houfes, in which the peafants feem to
live very comfortablv. There is a!fo a fmall building for the ufe of
travellers, where they may be lodged and entertained.
Vergata; a fingle houfe upon a little ifland, without accommodation for
paflcngers.
KemTinga ; a fingle houfe uf)on a fmall ifland, in which pafiengers may
be accommodated with a lodging.
Brando, another fmall ifland, but without any fort of accommodation
for travellers except horfes", which may be had of the peafant; but
you muft proceed as far as Varfala to obtain a lodging.
Varjala likcwife a fmall ifland. There are two rooms in the peafant's
houfe dcftined for the reception of travellers. The peafants feem
to live there pretty well ; they can give you potatoes, butter, milk.
and beer.
Helfmg ; a peafant's houfe, with an apartment for flrangers. Here the
Swedifl) language begins to ceafe, and is replaced by the Finnifh.
Almoft the whole of the road goes through pine and fir-woods : the
country is flat.
Hhnois. Only one room for travellers, which being very fmall, could
hold but a few people.
La'itls, a peafant's houfe, without any accommodation for paflengers.
Vol. II. • 3 A ' • Niemcnkyla
345
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
ainl XJleaborg through
Finland.
Swedifti
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
Niemenkyla.
Humikala.
Abo
Mak)Ia.
Lachto,
It,
If
U
March 13.
Arr. 10 p. m.
Dep. Mai-cli
2&, 1 p. m.
Stiite of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celfius.
Expences in
Swedifli Money.
3 horfes
2 fledgc^
3 men
3 horfes
0
36
1 fledge?
0
4
3 men
0
9
3 horfes
0
3p
2 fledges
0
4
3 men
0
9
8°o
March 24,
9 a. m. g° g
noon 6°0!
midni. 10° gN.B. You
March 25, l^ay at this
morn, lloojllage four
March 26, llcill. more
1 p. m. 5° ofor the
Some fnow
fell.
horfes.
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 n>en
N.B. You
pay for the
horfes as
ufual.
3 horfes
2 Hedges
3 men
O 27
O 4
o 9
1 12
O 4
0 9
0 30
O 4
0 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 347
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Kiemenkyh. The reader will obfervc with what nicety the Swedifli miles
arc fubdividcd. In France, England, and other countries, the tra-
veller's money generally levels the fractions, but it is not fo in Sweden.
There is but one apartment for paflengers in the pcafant's houlc at
this place.
Humikala. Here one may lodge pretty comfortably. The houfe affords
two bed rooms, and a fitting room. Proceeding from this place it is
always neccffary to have an interpreter of the Finnifli tongue, becaufe
the people do not fpcak Swedifh.
Aho is the capital of Finland. There is the caftle of Abo-hus, a fine
cathedral, a univerfity, a library : it is the refidence of an admiral, a
governor, and a bifhop. A quarter of a mile (Swedilli) from the town
you pafs by the church of St. Mary, which is faid to be very ancient,
and to have fcrved as the cathedral before the foundation of the city.
The government of Abo has allowed the peafants to raife the price
of pofting, in confequence of fame particular duty.
Mukjla. No accommodation for paflengers. The whole way is by
land : there are neither lakes nor rivers; and when the road is unfit
for the fledges going, travelling here becomes very irkfome.
Lachto. No lodging for travellers. We here faw the people ufe the
tops of fir-branches infiead of firaw, to make litters for the cows and
procure manure.
3 A 2 Muftanoja
34S
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm!
and Uleaborg through 1
Fhiland. 1
i
Swedifli
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cehius.
Expences in
Swedilh Money.
Muftanoja
Oripaa
H
1
n
is
If
If
March 26.
Arr. 1 1 p.m.
Departed
March 27,
9 a. m.
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fl.edges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
0 30
5°q
ll°o
A clear iky.
0 4
0 9
0 33
M^irtzanoja
S.illila-Peltari
0 4
0 9
0 24
0 4
0 9
0 30
IVTamal;!
About noon
3 inches of
fliow fell.
0 4
0 9
0 45
Kiviniemi.
0 4
0 9
0 33
Soiiula
0 4
0 9
0 27
0 4
0 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULE.IBORG. 349
LOCAL OBSr"R\'ATIO\S.
Mujlamja. Here is a finall fcparatc houfc for the reception of travellers.
Oripaa, No lodging for ftrangers. At a little diflancc from this place
is the fourcc of the river Aiirajoki. The road is very fine, and goes
through the middle of a j)ine-\vood.
Wirtzanoja, a wretched place belonging to the parifh of Lofmijoki, and
the dilh-i(?t Biorneborg or Satekunda. The road fiill proceeds through
woods of very old pine-trees.
SalUla-Pelta7-i. One may here get feme kind of lodging. I'he pea-
fants are ftout and handfome people. You have to crofs the Loima,
Pungalaifis, and tire Lembou or Ills, all of them finall rivers that
empty tbemfclves into the river Cumo.
Mamala. Here is a fcparatc final! building for travellers.
Kiviniemi. No lodging for firacgcrs. The river Cumo appears very
confidcrable, and the noifc of its current is heard under the ice.
SohiUci, a fmall hamlet without any accommodation for travellers. You
pafs over a wooden bridge about two hundred paces, or four hundred
feet long, which is called IFamtijhoJk'i Bro. The river forms here a
fort of catara£t, which falls down with a great roaring : in the Finnifli
language a catarad is callt-d kojt'i. What a[)pcars contrary to all
rule is, that the bridge is built in the fhapc of a crefccat or half-
moon, with the curve turned towards the current.
Ilcinois
35°
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
State of the
r-
and Uleaborg through
Finland.
S we did
Miles.
Arrival and
Departuie.
Weather.
Thermometer
Kxpences in
Swedifti Money.
of Cellius.
RiK.ii. skil.
Pleinois
u
March 27.
The clouds
difperfed by
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 42
0 4
the wind.
3 men
0 9
Arr. 10 p. m.
9"Q
Departed
March 28,
9 P- m.
16° 0
A very clear
iky.
Wuoriais or Ilaga. .
15
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 36
0 4
3 men
0 9
Ilertuala
1^
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 30
0 4
3 men
0 9
Yervcnkvle
H
Arr. 5 p. IT).
O'Q
3 horfes
1 0
Staid March
March 29,
2 fledges
0 4
29,
A clear iky.
morn. 10° 0
noon 8°
even. 7°
3 men
0 9
30,
March 30.
Snow about
noon. Ther.
the whole
day at 3° 0
31,
March 31.
Departed
April 1,
The air dark.
Therm, the
whole day at
4°o
April ],
9 a. m.
9 a m.— 7° 0
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 251
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
He'mois. Here is a room for paflengcrs, with three beds in it : the way
lies acrofs the ice.
JVuoriais. The houfe at this place is unfit for the reception of travel-
lers : it is one of thofe Finlandifli cottages which, if I am not mif-
taken, are called putcha. They have no chimney, but the fmokegoes
out of the windows, which are without glafs, and remain always open,
even in the feverefl weather. Wood is not fcarce in this country.
HertuaJi.1. No lodging for travellers. A quarter of a Swcdifh mile to
the right, before you come to Ycrvenkyle, you will fee the road that
leads to the cafcade of Kyro.
Yervenkyle. Two or three peafants' houfes, with a little cottage to re*
ceive ftrangers : the latter only coniilts of one room, with two beds
and a ftove. The pcafant of this cottage is a good honeft creature,
and feems to live with tolerable cafe. Yervenkyle is not the ftraightefl
way to go to Wafa, but we made this circuit, in order to fee the caf-
cade of Kyro.
Kiala
oJ-
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
and Uleaborg, through
Finland.
Swedifti
miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermomrter
of Celliiis.
Expenc»s in
Swedifh Money.,
Kiala , . • •
2
April 1.
3 horfes
Rix.d skii.
1 o
2 fledges
0 4
3 men
0 g
1'iifkaiia-k.aifi
n
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 3
0 4
3 n)en
0 9
I\.Uif\vais
11
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 J5
O 4
3 met!
0 9
Ivoikua
ih
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 12
0 4
3 men
0 9
X-arnbU
2
Arr. 1 1 p. m.
Departed
lo*' o
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 0
0 4
April 2,
3 men
0 9
6 a. m.
15° o
Rc'inicka
2*
^ horfes
1 18
0 4
2 fled ires
3 men
0 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 353.
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS,
Kiala : a houfe in the famous wood of Kyro. The accommodations are
pretty good : the road is coiiftaiitly among the woods : w c faw foxes.
Piijkana-hiiji . Strangers may get a lodging here. The road goes through
the wood, and for the laft quarter of a mile (Swed.) over the ice of a
fmall lake.
Kuifwais. Here is fome fort of lodging for ftrangers. The road conftantly
among the woods, where you now and then will meet with a little
lake. The peafants do not follow the main road in thefe woods, but
keep the ftraightefl; line poffible; and in order not to mifs their way,
the trees that you ought to pafs have been marked with a hatcliet.
This is the fame mode of travelling as is adopted in the woods of
America.
KojKua. No lodging for ftrangers. We pafTcd a little river, the ice of
which cracked under our fledges, and threatened to break every mo-
inent.
Lamh'd, pronounced Lamhe. There is a great room with three beds for
travellers.
Re'imcka. In this houfe they gave us a kind of very coarfc cheefe,
which they roaft by the fire in the fame manner as they toad the
cheefe in England. The people are of a very hofpitable difpofition.
We proceeded for two miles over the ice, which in fome places is fo
clear and tranfparent, that we could fee the ftoncs and filhes at the
bottom.
Vol. IL 3 B TaUizie
154
JOURNEY I'ROM
Stages between Stockholm
ami l.'leaborg though
Fiiiliinil.
Swedifti
Miles.
Avrivnl and
Departure.
State ot tiie
Weather.
Thermometer
Expences in
Swedifli Money.
of Cellius.
IBix-J. i.k,l.
Talvizie
21
April 2.
A thaw
about noon.
3 horfes
'2 fledges
1 3
.A * • J ¥ * 9 J 1 ^i' #, ■■■ •" r»*w
0 4
3 men
0 9
Tiiokolii.
2^
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 6
jL W V/ »* ^i' • *• • •••••••••
0 4
3 men
0 9
Gumfila
w
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 36
^_^ \A t A J * M * h* ■■■vvvvvrv
0 4
3 men
0 9
Sillampe
\l
Arr. 10 p. n).
Staid
5"o
3 horfes
0 42
it
**
April 3,
2 fledges
0 4
Aprils and'l
9 a. ni. 3" o
At noon a
thaw.
April A,
3 men
0 9
Departed
morn. C° 0
April 5,
noon 4° o
8 a. m.
even. 4o o
8° o
Tooby
11
3 horfes
0 30
■* 4-
1 fledges
0 4
3 men
0 9
Wafa
3
4
Arr. 10 a.m.
A thaw about
3 horfes
0 18
noon, as the
2 fledges
0 4
Staid
day before.
3 men
0 9
April 5,
Towards
midnight4°o
ij,
morn. 3" o
noon thaw;
Departed
therm. 4° o
)
April;,
midn. l°o
7 a m.
1° o
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 35^
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Tulvlz'ie. Here is a room for travellers. As there were no young men
in the houfe, a young girl followed the fledge in the capacity of driver.
This is a very common thing in Finland, that girls attend the tra-
vellers, in order to take back the horfes.
Tuokola. No lodging. There are two houfes on the left bank of a
river, on which we travel as far as Gumfila, and which being open in
fome places threatened us with danger.
Gumfila, I perceived no place where a ftranger might be lodged. As
our journey was to continue on the fame river which would pre-
fent the fame dangers, two guides offered themfelves to fliew us the
fafeft route.
Silhmipe : good accommodation for paflengers. There lived a widow in
eafy circumftances, as it appeared, who was provided with every thing
nccefliiry for travellers. Here is a fmall church.
To'jhy. An apartment for ftrangcrs. The country is flat. Meadows of
confidcrable extent, which having been flooded, afforded a pleafant
paffage for our fledges over the ice.
IVafi is the capital of the government of the fame name. There is a
rea-{X)rt, a tribunal of juflice, a prefident, and a governor.
3 B 2 Koflcy
35^
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
and Uleaborg, through
Finland.
Swedilh
miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celfius.
Expences in
Swcdifli Money.
Ko%
H
April 7.
3 horfes
2 fledges
Ris d SViT.
0 30
0 4
3 men
0 9
IVIanmo
2
About noon
3 hoifcs
2 fledges
1 0
0 4
3 men
0 6
On"an2"er
H
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 30
0 4
3 men
0 9
TVIono
H
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 36
0 4
3 men
0 9
Skrivars
1
3 horfes
2 fledges
0 24
0 4
3 men
0 9
Fyrkarncfs
21
Travelled all
night.
A thaw.
3 horfes
2 fledges
1 0
0 4
3 men
0 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEiVBORG. 2,57
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Kojky. Tin's is, properly fpeaking, not a place for changing horfes. We
however took, this route at the advice of the governor of Wafa, who
direcled the pcaiants to keep horfes in readincfs for us, in order that,
by going on the river, we might get upon the ice of the fea, and thus
travel more eafily with our Hedges; but I cannot recommend this
road. The peafants are not accuftomed to this employment, and do
not know how to a61, fo that one is expofed to inconvenience.
We came by the common poft-road to Manmo ; but the two lafi miles
were over land, and the ways extremely bad. I have rcafon to fuf-
pecl that the peafants did not follow the orders of the governor, and
the route he had traced out for us. The whole of the way frora
Manmo to Ongan!jer was over the ice of the fea.
Ouganger. No place for paflengcrs to lodge at. We proceeded con-
ftantly over the Frozen Sea, traverfing the bays, and palling between
iflands or rocks, that rofc above the furface of the ice. On the left
the high fea is fecn, on the right the coafi, which is very flat, and
prefents at fome diftance pine woods to view.
Mono is a pcallmt's houfe, without any accommodation for travellers.
One-third of the way goes over the ice of the fea, two-thirds over
land.
Shk-ars. I faw no place for the reception of pafTcngers. W e went
continually on the ice of the fea, where we faw fome boats frozen in,
near to which we paffed with onr fledges.
F)rkanie/s. No place to accommodate flrangers. This is likewife a
deviation from the main road, which we preferred, for the benefit of
the ice by fea, as the paliage over land was very bad. We were com-
pelled to travel all night for want oflodging, and fearing the thaw,
which began to diminiOi the ice.
Q Fagcrnefs
>5S
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
and UleaI)org through
Finland.
Fagernefs ,
Kurofolk.
Ganila Carleby.
Ojanala.
Hignal.i
Rocola ,
Kilajoki.
Swedifti
Miles,
3{
Arrival and
Departure.
April 7.
Arrived
April 8,
6 a. ni.
Departed at
noon.
Arr. 7 p. m
Departed
April (),
9 a. m.
State ot the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cellius.
1 Q
2*o
Thaw with
fiiow,
2°0
About noon
4" o, and a
great thaw.
Expences in
Swedifh Monev.
3 horfcs
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfcs
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfcs
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
1 O
O 4
o 9
O 24
O 4
0 g
1 o
O 4
o a
J 24
o 6
o o
1 0
O 4
o 9
1 36
o 6
o 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 359
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Fii^ernefs. This place Is celebrated for good horfcs, and \vc had indeed
very excellent ones. There is no lodging for ftrangcrs.
Kurofolk. Some fiflicrmcn's huts ; no accommodation for travellers.
The pcafants here, as in other parts of Finland and Sweden, fleep in.
beds three fiories high, one over the other.
Gamla Carlehy : a fmall town in the government of Wafa. In the poU-
houfe, where you change horfcs, there are fom.e very decent apart-
ments for travellers.
OjiZnala, a peafant's houfe, in which no paflengers can be received.
You (hould always take the precaution not to fuffer yourfelf to be
condudted over land when the paflage for fledges is bad ; but dedre
and even oblige your drivers to keep on the ice, though the way
fliould be rather longer.
Hignald. Lodgings for travellers. You ought not to rifK travelling in
the night under this latitude in the winter feafon, becaufe you cannot
well diftinguifh the road on the ice, and may deviate from your direc-
tion.
We fliould have gone by Rocola ; but being on the ice of the fca, we
muft have fetched a circuit to the right, for the fake of changing
horfcs, and come back the fame way : we therefore engaged the
horfcs we had to bring us ftraightways to Kalajoki.
Kalajokl. No dwelling for travellers. The road proceeds over the ice
of the fea, which is broken by the rocks underneath the furface,
when it finks or lowers itfelf fo as to touch them : this has a very
pretty appearance.
Yowala
360
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockholm
and Uleaborg through
Finland.
Yovvala.
Kevialuoto.
Luoto.
Siniluoto.
Brakeilad .
Laffila.
Gertuala.
Karicanda.
Uleaborg.
Swedifli
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
\^ eather.
Thermometer
of Ollius.
Expences in
Swedith Money.
1-V
-IJL
3 2
J-rr
i-h
4|
April g,
Arr. 1 1 p. m
April 10,
Departed
7 a. m.
Arr. 9 p. m.
April 1 1,
Departed
7 a. m.
Arr. at noon
A thaw.
ro
x\bout noon
a great thaw;
6°b
A continued
th.iw.
The tun hid
b) the clouds
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
ix.d. sliil.
o 27
O 4
O
9
0 30
0 4
0 9
O 24
O 4
0 9
1 o
0 4
o 9
0 24
O 4
O 9
o 17
O 4
0 9
0 34
O 4
0 9
0 25
0 4
0 9
2 36
O 8
0 lO
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 361
LOCAL OBSERYATIOXS.
Yozvala. Here you find a room with two beds, at the fcrvice of tra-
vellers. The whole of this coaft prefents nothing interefting to the
painter: the country is flat.
Kev'iahtoto. No reception for travellers. We travelled continually on
the ice, though the palHige was far from being plcafant, on account
of the rocks by which the ice was broken, and the road made very
uneven and rough.
Luoio. Here are two or three rooms to accommodate travellers. You
may even get cofice at this place.
S'tnihiolo. The pofl-houfe being on the fliorc, wc had no occafion to
drive up to it, but the horfes, which were ready, were fent down to
us : they were put to on the ice, and we purfucd our journey. I do
not know whether there are any lodgings for pafTengcrs.
Brakejiad is a fmall town, which has a fea-port, and carries on fome
commerce. There is an indiftcrent fort of inn there ; and the town
does not appear to advantage upon entering it.
Lajfild. No lodging for travellers. The peafants fecm to be poor.
Gertuald, No accommodation for ftrangers. There is a church, and the
parfon lives in a very comfortable houfe. He is faid to be one of tho
richeft clergymen in Finland.
Kar'icanda. Paficngers find a lodging here : there is a parlour and two
bed-rooms.
Uleaborg. The capital of Oftrobothnia. It is the rcfidence of a go-
vernor and fome inferior magiftrates.
Vol. II. 3 C Uleaborg
\62
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Swedifti
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
Uleaborg.
Tuk
iiri
Kaupila.
Vejola. .
Saffi,
Teftile.
li
II
U
II
Hutta.
Set off about
midnight.
June 9.
June 10.
Arr. 2 a. m,
State of the
Vv eather.
Thermometer
of Celiius.
Expences in
SwediQi Monev,
N. B. It being fumnicr,
a cart or carriage is re-
quired inQead of a
fledge ; as far as Ofver
Tornea, where horfes
are no
ufe of.
Arr. 8 a. m.
June 1 \ .
Departed
8 a. m.
m.it!:
3 horfcs
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
0 30
O 4
0 9
0 24
O 4
O 9
O 30
0 4
0 9
1 0
O 4
o 9
0 42
O 4
0 9
0 27
0 4
0 9
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. 363
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Leaving Uleahorg, you have to crofs the river in a ferry-boat, which will
hold horfes and carriage. The ferry is at the mouth of the river,
where it is two miles and about 100 yards broad. You coaft along
two iflands, Piti Saari and Hiela Saari, and leave them on the left.
On thefe iflands they boil the tar, which conftitutes the chief article
of the exports of Uleaborg.
Tukuri. Some arrangement for the reception of travellers. Here is the
river Aukipudas to pafs in a ferr}-. It is about four hundred and
fifty yards acrofs. The roads excellent ; you fee every where great
woods.
Kaupila. A room for paflengers. The country almoft quite flat. A
great deal of pine and fir-wood : birches very common.
The village of Vejola is fituated on one fide, and the fmall town of Lo
on the other fide of the river Lo, which is fix hundred and twenty-
five yards broad. There is much falmon caught in this neighbour-
hood.
Sajft. No dwelling for travellers. A girl of twenty years of age at-
tended us in the quality of driver. Here is another ferry over the
river Kuivaniemi which you have to pafs : it is about one hundred
and fifty yards acrofs.
TeJlUe. A room for paflengers.
Hutta. A fct of peafant's houfes, where a traveller may be accom-
modated.
3 C 2 . Ervaft
364
JOURNEY FROM
.Stages between Ui'^ahoro;
and the North Cape.
Ervaft.
Raiitiola.
Kemi.
Leivanicmi.
Tornea.
Kukko.
Frankila.
Swedifh
Miles.
11
ih
H
Arrival and
Departure.
June 1 1.
Arr. 2 p. m
Staid
June 14.
Departed
June 15.
June 15.
Arr. at noon
Staid
June 14,
15, 16.
Departed
June 17.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cellius.
Expences in
Swedifh Money.
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
0
24
2 carts
0
4
3 men
0
9
3 horfes
0
36
2 carts
0
4
3 men
0
9
O 24
O 4
O 9
O 12
O 2
O 6
0 35
O 4
0 9
0 24
0 4
O 9
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. ^6j
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Ervajl. A room for travellers.
Raidiola is a fmall village on the left bank of the Kenii, which is a cou-
liderable river, and flows with great rapidity.
Kcm'i is alfo the name of the parifh, where the church and the reu£Vor's
houfe are, on the right bank of the river Kemi. The road hilly : you
pafs a little bridge over the river Kakama.
Leivaniemi. No apartments for travellers. The ice having deftroyed
all the bridges between this and Tornea, we were obliged to crofs fe-
veral branches of the river Licdakala in a ferry-boat, as likewife the
river Kumo. At laft you pafs the river Tornea bv means of a ferry,
leaving the horfcs on the left bank, and taking with you your luggage
only.
Tornea is a fmail trading town, (ituatcd upon a pcninfula at the mouth
of the river Tornea. You go fomc way up the river, and leave on
your right a fmall wood of pine-trees, the only ones in this vicinity.
Kukko : this word fignifies in the Finnifh language a cock. Two or
three houfes, without any accommodation for travellers.
Frankila. No lodging for paflengers. You go clofe by a fmall country
houfe belonging to Mr. Richard, a merchant of Tornea.
Korpicula
366
JOURNEY FRO?*I
Stages between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Swedifn Arrival and
Miles, i Departure.
Korpicula ,
Kirkomeki.
Niemis,
Mattorenge, or Ofver
Tornea
Kaulimpe.
Tolufis, or Jiioxenge
TorUiIa.
14
H
H
H
State ot the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celliu'!.
June 17.
Arr. about
midnight.
June 18.
Departed
early.
Arrived
about noon.
June ^O.
Departed
about noon.
June 21,
Arr. 10 a. m
Expences in
Swedifti Money.
3 horfes
2 earts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfes
3 carts
3 men*
2 boats
and 4 men
2 boats
and 4 men
2 boats
and 4 men
O 33
O 4
0 9
0 33
O 4
0 9
0 18
O 4
O 9
0 30
O 4
0 9
0 22
•O 28
0 22
* Here is an end of roads and horfes, and 3'ou mufl henceforth travel in boats. I
reckon that a gentleman, with his fervant and an interpreter, which is neceffary in this
country, cannot do with lefs than two boats, efpecially on account of the baggage and
provifions, which take up a good deal of room. The following calculation of expences
is therefore made, upon the fuppofition that two boats and four rowers are employed.
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPK. 367
. LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Korpicula, (igiiifies a place covered zvith ivoud. No dwelline: for ftran-
gers : there are but two houfcs on the right batik of the river, which
at this phice forms a round bafon or little lake. You have a view of
the waterfall called MatkakoJU,
K'lrhomeki means, in the language of the country, a church on a hill.
There is a church and pretty good lodgings.
Nieinis fignifies a prnmonlory. There is a houfe on the left bank of the
little river Armasjoki, and a fmall wooden bridge over the river. The
road continues hilly.
Mdltorenge is the name of the village, and Ofver Tornea, or Upper Tor-
nea, that of the church, the parifh, and the re6lor's houfe, fituated
on the right bank of the river Tornea. Oppofite, on the left bank,
is the mountain Avafaxa. Wc proceeded in a boat on the river
Tornea,
KauUmpe. Some peafant's houfes on the left bank of the river. They
here fifh for falmon ; and there are people to attend you with their
boats in your journey up the river.
Tohifis. Here you change boats. You pafs the waterfalls of Kattila
Kolki, where the French academicians have fixed the tranfit of the
polar circle.
Tor/ula. Here you may get a lodging, and change boats, with people
to row you. There are many waterfalls to pafs, and fix hours were
occupied in performing thcfe two miles. The moft remarkable water-
fall is that of Poroikclki. You have a view of mount Kittis, the lafi,
which fcrved for the trigonometrical operations of Maupcrtuis.
Pello
368
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Swedifli
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celfius.
Expences in
Swedifh Money.
Pello
2
June 21.
Arr. 4 p. m.
2 boats
and 4 men
Kix.d. ^kil.
0 46
Kardis
3
2 boats
and 4 men
I 18
Kengis Bruk
li
Arrived
June 22.
Departed
June 25.
2 boats
and 4 m.en
1 12
Kollare
H
Departed
June 2(5.
morn. 19° 6.
noon 24 0
even. 16 0
heat of the
fun 36° 6
the water
2 boats
and 4 men
2 42
15° 6
Muonionifca
11
Staid till
July i.
June 27.
morning 19°
noon 19
evening 1 7
water 15
the fun +
June 28.
mo. 13° no. 15°
ev. 13° wa.l5°
June 2g.
mo. 13° no. 15°
ev. 9°wa. 14°
June 30.
mo. 10° no. 23°
ev.22°wa. + +
fun +
July 1.
mo. 23° no. 27°
ev. 23° wa. 15°
fun 37°
2 boats
and 4 men
5 36
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. 369
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS,
Pello. Clofe to that place is an iron foundery called Swanftcin. Here
are boats and attendants to be had.
Kardisy a peafant's houfc. Boats and attendants to be had.
At Keng'is Bruk is an iron foundery, the infpcflor of which lives in a
good and convenient houfc: a great waterfall. Near this place the
river Tornea joins the river Muonio.
KolJare is a fmall village where the peafants feem to be in pretty cafy
circumflances : boats and attendance. Here we had the famous Si-
mon, the mod adlive and expert Finlander of any we ever met with,
in mounting up and defcending from the waterfalls. Some of them
in this direction are quite impafliible ; you are then obliged to drag
the boat for a mile over land, among woods that are almoft impe-
netrable.
Muomojufca, a fmall hamlet, with a church and a parfon. You may
get a lodging here, and boats with attendance. Between Kollare and
Muonionifca you meet with a fmall colony called Kiglange, confift-
ing only of two families that are very poor.
Vol. II. 3 D Ofvcr
37°
JOURNEY FROM
Stafes between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Ofver Muonionifca. .
Kelketfuando
Pallajovenio .
Suontajervi. .
Lappajervi. . .
Pallojervi. . . .
Kintafara. . . ,
Reftijoki. . . .
Swediih
H
1
1
Arrival and
Departure.
July 1.
July 3.
July 4.
Staid till
July 6.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Ceh'iiis.
Expences in
SwcJifli Money.
morn. 18° 6
noon 29
even. I9
water 1 8
fun 45
morn. 25"6
noon 27
even. 20
water 21
fun 35
morn.
noon
even.
water
fun
17°o
18
11
*
N. B.
Thewhole
of this
journey
was per-
formed
with 2
boatsand
4 men,
without
chang-
ing, for
which we
paid to-
gether. .
N. B.
From this
place we
engaged
fome
Laplan-
ders, at \
12 0
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. 371
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Ofver Miiomonifca, or Upper Muoniofiifca. The habitation of a Fin-
lander. There are no boats to be had at this place. The peoj)lc of
Muonionifca brought us as far as Rcftijoki.
Kelketfuando : a fmall Finnifh fcttlement. The merchants of Tornea have
built here an apartment with a fr.c-place, to ftop at in their journevs
to the fairs in winter.
Pal/ijjovenio is the firft Finnifh colony in Lapland, properly fo called.
You pafs the frontiers of Oflrobothnia between Kelketfuando and
Pallajovcnio.
Suontajervi. Here lives a fingle Lapland family, clofe by a lake of the
fame name (jeri-i fignifies a lake). 'No boats are to be had here in
fummer, becaufe the Laplanders go from home to fifh.
Lappajervi, a Lapland fettlement, about half a mile (Svved.) in the inte-
rior of the country, on the right of the river. No boats to be had.
Pallojervi, a lake without any habitation near it.
K'nitafari, an ifland in the lake of Pallojervi, without any permanent
habitation. Some Laplanders occafionally flay there during the fifli-
ing feafon.
Reflij'dki: the name of the river which flows into the lake of Pallojervi.
A defcrt country. We fell in with fome wandering Laplanders on
the right bank of the river. You are obliged to go on foot.
3 D 2 Kcvijcrvi
372
JOURNEY FROM
Slate of the
Stages between Uleaborg
Swedifli
Arrival and
Weather.
Expences in
and the North Cape.
Miles.
Ueparture.
Thermometer
-of Cellhis.
Swedifli Money.
rix-d. per
day to at-
Rix-d. Sk.T
Keviiervi
1
July 6.
morn. 14" 6
noon 2g
tend us.
We had
even. 17
feven of
water 1 8
them for
fun 45
a day and
a half as
far as
Kauto-
Aitiiervi
1
keino,
which
made to-
gether a
fum of. .
5 12
Kautokeino
6*
July 7.
morn. \g''b
noon 27
even. 20
water 1 9
fun 43
July 8.
morn. 13° 6
noon 22
even. 16
water 1 5
fun +
July g.
morn. 14° 6
noon 25
even. 13
water 1 Q-f-
fun 40
•
Keinowappi
4
* Here begin tlie Norwegian miles, which bear to the Swedish a proportion as 18 to 16.
t The temperature of the water I generally took about 6 or 7 o'clock in the evening.
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. 373
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Kevijenn, a lake, without any habitation near it, and a dcfert country.
This lake is upon the frontier of Norwegian Lapland, which the
Danes call Finmarken.
Ajt'ijervi: another lake: no dwelling near it. You neither meet with
people nor houfes till you come to Kautokeino, to which place you
proceed down the river Pepj>ojovaivi.
Kautokeino is a fmall Lapland village. There is a church, and in win-
ter alfo a clergyman. Here you may hire boats and men to purfuc
your journey.
Ke'mowappi, a place on the left bank of the river, where we pafled the
night under our tent. No houfes nor people ; the country quite-
defert.
Mari
374
JOURNEY FROM
State ot the
Stages between Uleaboxg
Swedifh
Arrival and
Weather.
Expences in
and the North Cape.
Miles.
Departure.
Thermometer
Swedifh Money.
of Celtius.
Rixd. Skil.
Mari
4i
July 10.
morn. 1 4° n
^ z
noon 20
even. 17
water 1 7
fun 37
N. B.
From
Koinosjoki
]^
July 11.
morn. 13° 6
Kauto-
noon ] 7
even 1 8
water 1 7
fun +
keino to
Altcn we
had fix
men at 5
rix-dol.
SalvarETOt
2
July 12.
morn. 9°o
noon 9
f*nr*ii ^
■w'ka ■ 1 ** ■ ^^ \^ bavVvvv^v 9 w
day,
'
even. 7
which
makes
for five
Lainie
41
days. . . .
1*7 0
Alten
2
1
Arrived
July 13,
made no ob-
•
July 13.
fervations.
July 14,
morn. 20° 0
noon 26
even. 23
water of the
icy fea 11° 5
July 15,
fun 30
Departed
morn. 19°o
about noon.
noon 20
even 16
water of the
icy fea 10°o
fun 26
* I always meafured the temperature of the water on the furface, having no inftrument
to go deeper : and when I was at Alteii I only meafured it on the Ihore, and did not "o
out to fea in a boat. °
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH C.VPE. t,^,:
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
M7/7'. Here is a fmall cluirch for the convenience of the Laplanrlers
in winter. No body lives here in fummer. Hence you meet with
neither houfcs nor people till yon get clolc to Altcn.
Ko'niosjoki is the name of a river (jo¥i fignifies a river). Here wc quitted
the river Alten and our boats, to travcrfe the mountains on foot. No
vcfiigc of a human habitation all this way.
Scilvargot : a dcferled cottage, where we paflid the night in the midll
of mountains. Wc again joined the river Altcn near the fpot where
it receives the river Katiojoki. Unlets you meet with tome people
that are fifhing for falmon, you are obliged cither to fwim acrofs the
river, or to go up its banks till you find a place which is fordablc.
Lame is a fmall village, where we flopt before we proceeded to Alten.
Alten'x's, only the houfe of a merchant, with fome eftablilliment of pca-
fantry about it. It is fituated on the gulf of Alten Fiord, which is
an arm of the Frozen Ocean. A quarter of a mile hence (Swed. or
Nowegian) is Altengaard, which is properly the refidence of the bai-
liff of Norwegian Lapland^ and belongs to the government of Dron-
theim.
Proceded
2>7^
JOURNEY FROM
State of the
Stages between Uleaborg
Swedifli
Arrival and
Weather.
Expences in
and tbe North Cape.
Miles.
Depaiture.
Thermometer
of Cehius.
Swedifti Money.
Rix.J. Skil.
Proceeded on the
July iQ.
morn. 16° 0
Journey towards
noon 1 7
tbe North Cape.
-•
even. 10
water of the
icy fea 6° 0
fun 24
N. B.
The whole
of the
Havefund
10
July 17.
morn. 9° 0
noon 1 1
expence,
with one
even. 10
boat and
fea 6
4 rowers
fun 24
from Al-
len to
North Cape
3
July 1 8,
morn. 12° 5
the
Arrived
noon 1 5
North
at midnight.
even. 20
fea 6
Cape
amount-
fun 26
ed to. . .
5 12
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. ^
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Havefwid: the houfe of a merchant, upon an ifland which forms a flrait
called by that name. Sund fignifies a flrait.
The North Cape is the mod northern point of Meagre Ifland, in the
Norway tongue called Magerm, under 71° 10' north latitude.
Vol II. 3 E As
378 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVAllONS.
As for my Return, the Route way he Jeen upon the Map prefixed to
the Second Volume. The Expences were nearly the fame ; and I
fliall only tranfcr'tbe my meteorological Obfet-vatmis, for the Sake of
thofe who are curious about fuch Remarks.
July 10. On Ihc Icy Sea, or the Frozen Ocean morning 22° 5
noon 25
evening ig
Water of the Icy Sea 7
The Sun - 30
July 20. On the Icy Sea, in returning to Alten morning 24
noon 26
evening 23
Water of the Icy Sea 13
The Sun - 39
A perfect calm reigned on the fea, and I do not remember having
ever fufFered greater heat in my life than in this journey. The calms
here perfectly refemble thofe which Vaillant and other travellers defcribe
at the Cape of Good Hope.
July 2J. At Alten
July 22. At Alten
July 23 and 24 was prevented from making obfervations.
morning
25° 6
noon
27
evening
25
The fea water near the fhore
13
The fun
42
morning
20
noon
21
evening
16
fun
32
July
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 379
July 25. At Altcn . _ _ morniiTg 10°o
noon J 2
evening 9
July 26. Set oft' from Alten - - morning 10
noon ] 3
evening g
July 27. Pafled the mountains ; gloomy weather morning 9
Some fnow fell - - - noon 6
evening 3
July 28. Among the mountains - - morning 3
noon 4
evening 4
July 29. On the river Alten, returning to Kautokeino morning 4
noon 5
evening 5
Water of the river 14
fun +
July 30. At Kautokeino . - _ morning 9
noon 1 2
evening 1 1
July. 31. On our way from Kautokeino to Enontekis morning 8
noon 1 0
Gloomy weather _ _ - evening 3
Augiijl 1. Among the mountains on the boundary of
Swedifli and Norwegian Lapland - morning 2
noon 1 1
evening 11
Augujl 2. - - - - morning 8
noon 1 1
evening 1 1
We arrived at Enontekis towards the evening
Augujl 3. On the river Muonio - - morning 5
noon 8
evening 6
Auguji
t8o
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
Augujl
4.
On the nver Muonio
Augujl
5.
At Muonionifca
Augujl
6.
On the river Muonio
Aiiguji
7.
At Kengis
Augiiji
8.
On the river Tornea
Auguji
9-
At Ofver Tornea
Augujl
10.
At Tornea
■Auguji
11
. This day we travelled
rived at the latter pi
morning
6° 6
noon
10
evening
6
morning
6
noon
11 .
evening
8
morning
7
noon
7
evening
6
morning
6
noon
8
evening
7
morning
8
noon
11
evening
9
morning
8
noon
10
evening
7
morning
7
noon
9
evening
6
from Tornea to Uleaborg, and ar-
ace towards the Evening.
FINIS.
T. GUIet, Printer, Salifbury-fquarc.
JUNl,
UnWersJty ot Ca«^°^^^ FACILITY
SOUTHERN REGIONAL UBRAR^ ^^^^.^333
Return this maiei"" ^_-4
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